Evening Star Newspaper, February 4, 1882, Page 3

wrstor | BOSTON TOWN. Boston: | Howghion, sift p. Be Mo SM IN NEW F Its In- Decay, Ff and Preent | De Boston: | Alexander Mc PAUL THE MISSIONAR ‘New York | | By Rey. W. M. Tart Harper & Brothers, Wishington: F Mohun. FRENCH DRAMATISTS OF THE 19TH Ly J. Baaxonn Macruiws ; OF MADAM French by Mrs. ¢ Xew ¥ oh From the MF. Jous Lit | Washington iL HOEY a D. Appleton & C 1 F. B. The aut given suc he popular “Bodley” books has | ant historical ac- in the hand-| Roston demand volume little wong > much history wort learned so pieasantly. Dr. Blaikie’s name sufficiently indicates his nationality and religious belief; bai if any fur- ther evidence be neeled on either point, and | particularly upon the latte! Feadily and fully by r struggles and trials of pinati Encland. In style it of the oid-f order, and somewhat involved; but abundantly makes up in earne: for any apparent lack of litera volume moreover, snch a full ree and events, as to make it hot to members of Dr. Bi Paul, which is the sixth of of volumes on seripturel characters, | Dr. Taylor bas not aimed to come into compet tion with the more comprehensive and elaborate \ works of Furrar, Conybeare, aud others, but rather to point out the p: i lessons for | modern life which are si by the personal career of the great missionary Apostle. The book consists of twenty-nine ures, all of them short, and written in an earnest | and eloquent le. The main object of the author is kept weil in view, through- out, while the stirring events of Vs lite are so fully dweit upon and so graphically | aeseribed as to not only emphasise and further | Dr. Taylor's purpose, but also tu wake the vol-{ ume an to the general reader as | ian shed is Mr.) “aH | the Freneh stage, that those who read his first book on it theme will be giad to welcome his | lately published magazine ar in the pern nent aud attractive form in which the pear, sup; able new | | i fete index. wo, the two Dun , Serib Au- ou. Feuillet, Labiche, Meiihae, Halevy, and Zola. While not so absorbing as her Mem ely publishet I musat are still very interestin the corres- ¢ of a lady’ of her opportunities and ac- ments. and covering so stirrin; i of France as is comprehended be- tween the years 1803 and 1814, must needs be. | That large class of rewters who are fond of | reading history by its side Lghts will be thaak- | fal to the publishers for putting these letters in | the handsome and dw form in whieh they , ow appear. Bary Rus. (Fler Adventures and Misadventures, Her Friends and Her Enemies.) Boston: Roberts Brothecs, Washington: Jaues J. Chapman. Tux Bioepy Cussm. A Novel. By J. W. Dv Forest. New York: D. Appleton & Go. Washington: F. B. an. Wap Wenr. The of the Red River Trazety. By Max 5. Beray. New York: D. Appleton & Co. Wi ay ‘Mobun. Puaxton Rocxrs. A Novel of Boy Life. By koscrren Jounsox. Iilustrated. New York: Charles Serib- ner's Suns. Washmeton: Robert Beall. Tux Two Carry Bors. By Louis Rouscenrr. Boston: ‘Roberts Brothers. ‘J. Chap- jashington: Jamex | RonewAny axp Rue. Boston: James R. Oxsood & Co. There is not much in “Baby Rue” about the | baby, who is stoleu by the Indians, but a great | deal about the vexed Indian question. The scene is Inid on the southwestern frontier, dur- | ing the Indian disturbances which preceded the | Mexican war, aud the purpose of the author feems to be as much te couvey a meral as to | write a branch of werk is very well done. though | the book is not withont literary merit, while it will have considerabie interest fur these hav- ing a taste for the subject of which it treats. ims set up by his adwirers several inee that Col. De Forest is the coming American novelist is not likely to be sustained by his last book. Some of the characters in “The Eleody Chasin” are well drawn, bat its plot is improbable, aud many of the incidents are ab- surd. The character of the heroine is not worth painting, andon the whole the story is hardly worth telling. ld Work” is byno means an improvement, ¢ither in seutinent or style, un Col. De Forest's story. Even less, in fact, ean be said in its favor. Itisatale of “carpet bag and kuklux- fam.” which, though not devoid of interest, mizht well have been left untold, since reading it ean only have the etffect—tiouh that was babiy not intended by the author—to arouse | zs that had better be allowed to die, Phaeton Rowers is a well told story of the ad- ventures ofa truly wonderful boy, who 1s con- tinually inventing something, and oftentimes coming to grief through his own inventions. The numerous bey family ts pretty certain to lke it, which is a fair test of quality. In his story of “The Two Cabin Boys” the anthor of “The Constable's Son” has given to the young folks « rattliag record of adventures scluding shipwrecks and life Australia. The narrative fs style, and the moral con- veyed—“that happiness in this world ean only be founded on industry and honesty,”—is a which every person can endorse. “nary and Rue” is one of the best of the “Round Robin” ser which has already in- xt several stories of more than average ex- The scene is laid in America and Europe, and covers the period of the revolution Ja this count, ad the reign of terror in France. wracters—a French Marquis, Quakeress, and Rue, a ed ‘with striking effect. the vividly described, and the interest is well sustained throughout, in eharm- ing literary style. Through James P. Putnain’s Sons Chapman we have from G. ‘John Barlow's Ward” and | he Golden Tress,” being Noa. Vill and IX of | thelr series of Trans-Atlantic Novels. The latter | jg translated from the of Fortune Du Bolezobey. They are not without literary me bat both are rather melodramatic in stile, and leave upon the wind of the reader an unpleas- | fat impression. JOURNALISM, ETC. Althongh issued iu New York, the International Review may fairly be considered a sort of Wash- ington pubiication, both on account of its lite- rary personuel and the character of a great part | Of its contents. Its present editors have len; been identified with this city, and still, we | betieve, retain somewhat intimate connections with it and its interests. Washingtonians, of more than uxual interest and value. These ‘are “History of the Natienal Loans of the United States,” with Mlustrative diagram, by Rafael A. Basler. of the Treasury Department, nad eeu fully-prepared and well-eonsidered paper on “The prey Press of America,” by S.N_D.! North, of the Census Bureau. It may i e added, | also, that the leading article for the current month, entitled “Alaska ue It Is,” is by tvan Petrof, who, altheush put down in the table of | contents as of San Francisco, is closely related | to if not actually a resident of Washington. That excellent Amerieo-Freach publication, The Parisian, bas been ehanged from @ weekly | to @ semi-weekly tssue, in order that it may | give the English-reading residents of Paris still Iater Intellizence from their homes. The Paris- ian has been from the start a model for French Journalists, not only in “its editoriai manage- ment, but in its typographieul make up and Equal guod fortune seems to attend the } venture of publishing in this country @ paper exclusively devoted te the gentle art of} angling. The American Angier. which was com- menced as 4 mortiiy in New York last autuian, by Mr. W. C. WHO Is as h nd ane ceasful with his pen as with |, teow | | but who, nevertheless, or therefore. do not care | tige as a literary center which she enjoyed when | the old Graham's Magazine, Godey's Lady's nin New | + | diction, it matters not which; no one looks for | | above the waving lines of satin and lace, the | enginee: period |" FICTION. r | ieee of claiming any youns | are usually represented in force. As is usual in sneh efforts, ueither | j | perienced eyes the developments of the last few j dressing of the day may seem to be more inxu- | very fe) i if .THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON. SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 1882—DOUBLE SHEET. it more popular than ever with that large and constantly-increasing class of American gentle- | men who delizht in the literatare of angling, | to have’ mixed with ‘it records of boat-races, diog-and-cat shows, pigeon-slaughterings, and that sort of thing. Judge Tourgee’s new weekly, Our Continent, which is now announced to appear on the 8th inst., will, no doubt, as is intended, do consider- able toward restoring to Philadelphia that pres- Rook, the Saturday Evening Post, thie Saturday Jourier and Alesanier's Messenger were the lead- sin this countr nd Golden Days, pub- . Fank with the most widely cir- vulated story papers we have; and if the Conti- | nent ¢1 ete near what the preliminary | | ul one to expect it will doubt- with the very best and most pop- ular literary weeklies of the day. cee FASHION AND SOCIETY. mt Weddings and Hall Toilets. A NEW DEPARTURE a) S16 8 OF COMING SPRING. From Our Own Correspondent. New Yorx, February 2. | There is nothing new to say just now in re- rd to fashion. Once the story has been told | the rest is endless repetition, or endless contra- sense or any other virtue in fashions. When receptions and entertainments of one kind or | another take place at the rate of twenty or every day, from two to six of which some | rl bound to atiend, almost any one will be able to conclude that even the most fash- ionable women do not have a new dress for every occasion, and that the majority, in fact, | are obliged to resort to many ingenious devices to preserve the distinetion and dignity of their general appearance. Still the whirl goes on, however, and still the bright, fair faces appear thirty vhtter of gems and fragrance of exq' flowers. It is a wonderful art this of dressing, and there are women who seem to be mistresses of it; but it is safe to say they could not write | about it or teach it, and this proficiency is the result of their genius in contriving ways and as, bot of knowledge of the art of doing without. About this time, that is, a few weeks before Lent, private interests, even those of society. give way to cousiderations for the pnblie goo There are dozens of charities in New York. each one of which depends larzely apen its annual ball or some other form of entertainment for its rt tof these are crowded into Pebruary, and as they all en- rvices of a number of society ladies in ng the affair, disposing of tickets and the like, a large number are more or less inter- ested and occupied to the detriment ef private | business. These balls are the only public balls itis pardonable to attend, and they require a vast number of committee meetings, of meet- Ings of “directresses,” of consultation and lively ssion before the points are settled to every- satisfaction. The patrovesses do not ” they wear their old clothes on these sions; but the announcement of their nates brings in the outside public that does dress, that has perhaps no other opportunity of airing its Y costumes and that likes to consider itself sted in the same object as Mrs. Vander- bilt or Mrs. A. T. Stewart. Cireumspect dauzh- | ters who haye had some experience and who | know their own valuein the maertmonial market | etimes permittga to co to these balls: "Y efPment does not come from «iety, but from a lower element, from Ho trading and profes e not theentrée of houses wh al balls are given, who would not allow their gir to be seen at any ordinary public bail. but who yield to the mixed halo of fashion and charity Which surrounds balls ot this class. It is always remarkable what a vast number of black-coated young men there are at these halis who form a dense semi-circle about the dancers, but who are net entitled to the priv w lady as partuei young men are known as the “light ®.” They do not buy their tickets to balls or any place of amusement, though they They do uot uns women to accompany them to these for carriage hire and bouquet would zbsorb their week’s salary, but they hang on.to the felld » pretty by mammias becanse id accommodating, invite rat are always pleasant irrepreachable in the » er of neckties and useful upon eecasions. They are nut “marry- 4ng” men, however. and if iris do not know it they soon become aware of the fact. It is amus- to hear them talk of impossibility of a fellow” marrying nowadays, and providing a wife with t ‘equisite bu sii living a x, beeause their meagre in- ‘Ss are often exed out, and their own pel al wants supplied by some mother or sister hes or does di and when an to the joint ase man period is not is fully aware of his own giving away the small- atom of himself without full compensation. does not love blindly. It is a question whether he is capable of Toye at all—even with himself. He would marry if he could find some one whom every body else wanted, who wanted only him, and who possessed money enouzh, position nzh, and beauty (of a kind that suited his taste) sufficient to pay him for the who can resources. The ye an ideal being. “le BALI. ROOM SPLENDOR. In describing ball room dress it is usual to pile on the adjectives without reterence to truth, and it is customary to speak of toilets ascon- stantly increasing the azgregate of magniticence. Of the dressing of a recent ball which was muc of it so plain and ordinary that it became a sub- ject of remark with many of the guests, an imazinative reporter remarked that there ‘were fortune: ears, bank capital on necks, mi on fingers, diamonds by the bushel, precious ones by the peck. go'd and silver by the ton, seatiered over mi. of silk, acres ot ‘satin and deserts of velvet.” Descriptions of actual toilets do not pretend to be exact, nor do ladies wish that they should be. They have no objection to nm Mire Court and Aurillae, rench blonde, turned inte ; Mlencon or Duchesse point, Vallenciennes and anish silk lace by a stroke ot a penci ving to vive that woman a new dress,” sa: good natured reporter Qvoman). + worn that old Nile green to my certain knowl- edge for three years, and I have trimmed it and retrimmed it myself (in print)a half dozen times. 1 um going to put her in lavender satin, and see how she will look.” And the next day Mrs. who probably wanted a dress, but had not been able to get ene, is astonished to find herself recorded In an elegant new costume of lavender satin, with point lace trimming and lovely garniture of pink roses. Bat tiris is an exceptional case. Good nature and the desire to be equal to the occasion does not usually lead to more than the willingness to int the objects, whatever they are, In the htest colors. It is expected of them, and they do it. Nor could they very well do other- wise. ‘They eannot say that this Indy’s dress Was made of cotton-backed satin, and that of another was trimmed with imitation lace. They cannot say that one was dazzling in beads that cost a dollar a pound, and another in diamonds only coated with the precious dust. It is the vile system which is at fault, which does not admit of discrimination, but stimulates and en- courages the wholesale and generalizing de- scriptions, assertions and statements which It is impossibie should be true. Doubtless te inex- years ia the line of color, in the application of color and design to erystal bead trimmings, in the nanufacture of fine yet cheap imitations of Tich fabrics, especialiy satins, velvets and laces, and the chewical discoveries which have given us almost perfect fmitations ef real gems, the rious than ever before. But thts Is certainly not the case to the extent that is supposed. On the contrary. much of the dress of women is now even ou what are considered “full dress” occasions. A few years . Women, old and young, wore long t robe an imjnense quantity of me , and often one fabrie overlaying another. Now'the long trains are In the minority, ate-net essential; over- skirts have almost disappeared, and the newest and prettiest dresses are made with skirte that hang plain and straight, at least at the back. Hat for all this women receive no credit. It tnatters not whether it is a reaction or a move- ment in advance, it would be useful and only ir to tell the truth, Instead of keeping up the same eternal howl whieh has 60 little f¢ ion in the real facts of the case, The period of even a fashionable woman’s triumph and indulgenee of gratified vanity is very brief. ‘Twice in her life she Is crowned with reses; when she makes her debut into her small world, and when she is married. The rest of her caring and crownin: to deprive herselfot needed or coveted objects todo It. Yet these lives are the ones of which the newspapers are full, in regard to. w! yeans are compared with: | tied and enclosed in. sil lany a woman has hada costly bouqu bestowed upon her who would have been thank- fal for the money it represented to put in fer empty pocket. There is a hideous fashion which obtain this season of opening sleeves lengthwise so as to disclose the barearm. This is ungraceful and unbecoming even to the most beautiful arm; to one that isless so, it is positive deformity. A jovely rounded arm is a rare beauty, and short sleeves with long gloves, that is gloves that cover the wrists and come well up over the plump lower half of the arm, above the wrist, may be worn without any impropriety by those who possess this attraction, but if the owner is advancing toward middle age, or is developing a tendency to undue stoutness and fullness, she should wear elbow sleeves or close fitting sleeves of lace, for nothing vulgarises a woman's appearance more than the display of bare red or bony arms, which look as if they bad | graduated fromthe useful but unesthetic sew- ing machine or wash-tub. THE FEATURES OF RECENT WEDDINGS AND BALL TOILETS. It has been remarked in previous letters that white flowers are in high vogue for certain oceasions—such as weddings, introductory balls, receptions and the like. This idea seems to grow in favor. and has become so universal as to seriously embarrass the fashionable florist. who upon certain days or at certain seasons— for there are favorite days and favorite seasons for getting married—finds himself overwhelmed with orders and demands for particular flowers, for which, perhaps for days to come, there will be no demand at all. Roses, azaleas, the nar- cissus, carnations, and lilies. callas and lilies of the valley are the principal flowers used, and the different tints of roses, with smilax and nat- ural leaves, quite give the effect of color. A novelty for brides consists of a fan of flowers carried instead of a bouquet, and at a recent wedding the ceremony took place under a Swiss chalet made of flowers, instead of under the usual marriage bell. Baskets have quite changed their forms. Instead of the large flat or useless oval forins, there are quaint and pretty straw satchels with handles, mounted outside with sinilax, calla lilies, crossed roses, and lilies of the valley, and filled with white roses or white lacs, or some other preferred combination. These baskets are trimmed with tinted satin ribbons, are useful afterwards, and kept as a souvenir. The arrangement of flowers is much more natural and beautiful now than formerly. In- stead of being crucified or impaled on sticks and wires, the stems are dipped in a preparation that preserves them, and put naturally tocether, the flowers being loose, the stems, when dry, rT foil and ribbon or white kid. The latter is the more recherche. In addition there are satin streamers. ivory white fora young lady, heliotrope or a combi- nation of red and tea rose if the recipient is a married lad With the stiff conventional forms the camelia has disappeared. There are few used now, and only by persons who do not keep in rapport with modern ideas and know no changes from the round plate-topped bouquet and basket of twenty years ago. These have taught us also the beauties of the daisies, and wild flowers—the common heath and the vine, the golden rod for decorative effect and the Scarlet flower of the homely kitchen bean. Our hionables have taken so much ofa les- sou from the esthets that they are oeginning to differentiate special occasions from the erdi- nary events and permit innovations of cos- fume. At arecent lovely at home wedding the bridesmaid were little girls, dressed in Kate Gregaaway costumes of white mull, with wide pmk sashes, mob caps with band of pink satin ribnon, and carried satchel baskets of pink roses. At another wedding, the bride wore conven- tional white satin and orange blossoms, with train, but the bridesmaids were charming in “Early English” dresses of terra cotta red silk, with red sik bonnets trimmed with roses, and great bunches of white roses at their belts. ‘The bail toilets of young girls are more siinple and much less elaborate in train and trimmings than formerly, but embroidery lends exceeding elegance to the costumes of some of the elder ladies. A dress prepared for the Charity Ball, is of white satin witg princease front and bodice, embroidered all over with fine white jet. The pleated train is of striped satin and moire, edged with a thick satin ruche. A pale pimk satin has been embroidered in the same way with opales- cent beads, but the back is cut witha leaf- shaped basque, tied with an enormous bow of moire, over a train of plain satin, finished with exceedingly fine plisses of tne same and interior jace. A yery handsome dress is of wood colored moire, with slurred satin front, apparently covered with frinzes of small cut beads in mixed brenze and ruby and brown and amber. The sleeves were of beaded face to match. An esthetic dress worn at a recent ballwas of salnon-colored silk, with brown velvet sieeves and front, the latter embroidered with two calla lilies crossed in a way that was not conspicu- ous. A natural lily was set low at the left of the bodice, which Was embroidered with brown silk in a coral pattern forming a border, above which was a neckerchief of white tulle. A charming dress of pale yellow satin has been de for a private entertaiument, quite eov- exed with Spanish lace and garnitured with red and yellow tulips, two forming a hanging clus- ter. The bodice of this dress was cut alow square. The sleeves were mere bands of satin and lace, not straight but rounding, and the haives overlaying each other, fashion of wearing brown or tan-colored loves with white satin’ dresses is a vile one, and will be short lived. It is inharmonious, aud gives the impression that in the absence of suitable gloves the wearer had put on those whigt she ordinarily wears on the str It as never been generally adopted, and at avery ge ball. one of a fashionable series, whici 7euered last week, only a very few were no- iced, so that it may be presumed the caprice is dying out. ESTHETIC IDESS. The hold which esthetic ideas have upon the world of dress and fashion is their novelty. There is nothing else that is new in the whole realm of modern attire. The demand for noy- elty, season after season, and year after year, not only exhausts resources but diszusts and wearies all womén who are capable of compre- hending the enormous waste that lies behind them, and these, practical, sensible thongh they are, find in the raze of estheticism something which suit® their cases. Minus the transcen- dental element, tney find a simple, usefal dress adaptable and convenient, andan example which ives them courage to adopt it. shall this coming summer find London repeating itself in | New York, and the young girls especially weat- ing prints’ and muslins and cambrics, with shirred waists gathered into wide belts, puffed or modified iez-of-mutton sleeves, and straight skirts trimmed with one or more fiounces. The large straw hat, the gipsy and poke or cottege straw bonnet, the mittens and the muslin fichu, will all be represented; and the Nile lil and pond lily, the daisy and dagy downdilly will flourish in miliners’ windows in loving prox- imity. All this is inevitable, because there is nothing else to fall back upon. There is a dearth of ideas. The trruption of novelty which fol- lowed the revival of color and design in fabries and of opulent splendor in beaded trimmings, though still capable of surprising effects, have no longer the advantage of a reactionary Influ- ence. Color tires. Glitter soon looses its power tocharm. There must be the elements of true Deauty in that which holds us with a permanent bond. Mere fashion is not based on that true beauty. element is change and admiration to-morrow for the opposite of what are approved to-day. Esthetic ideas set fashion at naught. They do not ask what is fashion, but what is beauti- ful in form and color; and they set form before color, as they should. This one feature of cour- age in wearing what pleases them, without re- spect to conventional demands, is the greatest werit of the new departure. ‘For women can never dress well, never work well, never act effectively. until they learn to think and work and act for themselves. As mere ippets, marionettes, blocks upon which any sbenraity ean be hung, which interested smakers and dealers chose to call fashionable. they caunot fail to render themselves liable to contempt and ridicule, besides dwarting their powers of mind and body; but if they will treat the subject of dress as they do any other, get al! the informa- tion they can upon it, using only that which is suitable and convenient for them to use, they ‘will find themselves relieved from a thraldom, the effects of which can only be estimat when it has been getten rid of, Of course it is no better to be mere initators of ene school than another—an echo is only an wi the sound be a note higher or a note lower on the musical scale. To be one’s self is the thing, and then if others follow it will be a sign that there was something het you crates’ Yet pee = ree ee in eopying-a goo . Not to lo 80 Js still to be in bends, aad it is the release from them and the work and waste t! entail that is one of the pal objects to be attained. For women of time and means, however, there is another, and that is to-reatize for themselves, and in their own persons, something of that 1d of beauty whieh they have heretofore seen only in pictu works of art in galleries and museums’ or the choice haunts nature. Se ie as It never can be so long as its essential | wuse the concep‘ion and realization of true beauty in art and life—and one should be synony- inous with the other—is to being born again. It is. another new birth. It gives to every object a deeper meaning, a new if cance. It makes us know what there is in ‘the primrose by the river’s brim” besides the prim- rose. It sass heed ee were of the wild grape vine and its te: \is,.the drooping petals of the honeysuckle, and the purple glory ef the roadside gorse. We may langh at the sunflower, the narrow circuit of afan or the corner of a parasol; but who cannot see its use and inetinc- tive appropriateness in the corner of an unat- tractive gard, against the gray and brown of earth and air and sky and bare frame cottage— its eye always turned toward the sun, its long | stalk holding its {sunshine and color that unconsciously warms the hearts and lives of those who look upon it? The sunflower is an emblem, not an ornament except when used as an emblem. THE RIVALRY OF STYLES. esthets incline to the short belted waist, the dain to borrow some ideas from the former in cquiit have quite adopted their head gear. Doubtless it is weli for the public and women particularly that there are two schools of ideas, and that one fies the eccentricities and extravagances ofboth, besides offering a wider field for choice. The hands of mere mechanieians and irresponsible the domain of art, invests it with a new interest, and affords a promise of better things in the future, truer and more natural forms, more di- versity, and more harmony. SIGNR OF SPRIN Eyidences of preparation for the coming spring mildness of the winter and the prospect of the early advent of the warm season. Already the blue bird has returned to summer quarters, and with the blue bird comes invoices ef delicate lawns and percales, the pretty cambries and soft satiny satines. There are spring suits in pre- paration of fine twilled atl-woel. :n bronze and olive and brown and bottle green, trimmed with broad bands of opea embroidery in the same shade, or more simply finished with tailor stitch- ‘ing, and artistic buttons, which means buttons of ivory or metal or porcelain, with figures raised or etched or painted npon them, and most carefully and daintily outlined. Some dark straw bonnets have appeared with | an upright cap-crown pleated into an almost up- right brim—a brim open and suggestive of the moon-shaped Kate Greenaway hatsand bonnets. The trimming consists of bands, formed of folds of satin, velvet, or plush to match the bonnet, | ; brown or bronze of t of saffron and salmon. The poke bonnet, too, is well defined, and sure to come to the front, for in the modiflea shape it is very becoming to the majority of faces, and the pale, pink, blue, yellow, or darker wine or bronze of the lining can be aiade to suit all com- plexions. ‘The styles for cotton fabries, both dark and light, naturally follow esthetic models, the fullness and simple forms lending themselves ¢ bennet to the pale tints readily to soft, light-weight, inexpensive materials. But a very large nuinber ef persons have been so long accustomed to stretchlag the material plainly over a Mning, and having no responsibility beyond cutting from a paper pattern, that it is diffientt to make them under- take any departure trom the methods of the last quarter of a century, whieh have vibrated be- tween a little more and a Ettle less but general- ly stuck to the basque and the coat sleeve with exemplary constancy. It isan exceedingly dif- ficult thing to adjust mechanism to a new ure. When it has been accomplished, changes restricted to details whieh are grafted on the foundations, sometimes without the least relation to it, but only forthe sakeof giving an appearatce of novelty. ‘Thus, the basque when first introduced,twenty-five or thirty years azo, as an improvement upon the*polka” waist, with its short battlemented skirt, was a grievous prob- lem to the average dressmaker, and a tailor’s eut was considered: ne to insure a per- fect jit. But the dificulty once surmeunted, experience, own ever since, only chat short, froin points to euiruss, mn Ccuirass to lappel or “coat,” and go on’ ad inflnitam—for where would be the oecupstion of fashion uiakers and fashion writers if fashions did net change with the moot Jexnie JUNK. Postmasier General Howe a and have beld their from long to “Did you know that Postmaster General was a native 2 asked Mr. Lara. “His father’s name His nam ‘imothy Otis start, likely boy, meinber him. He went off to F school and was expelled from boyish misdemeanor. He became a mecbanie for alittle while, and then stadied law. He went into a law partnership with Emery Bean in Readflcld. Bean used to say he was lazy, T remember! Howe finaily went out to Green Bay, v sin, and bas been in Wisconsin, ever since. He must be near seyenty years of aze. He had two brothers, but they ‘are both dead. He haa one sister now living in Turner—the Widow Whitman. 1 expect Howe isa wealthy man. He is aman of considerable dignity, but was very glad to see me, when I called on’ him at Washington, a few years ago.” sbi cilia NE ‘They Tovk Their Pens in Hand. From the Lawrence (Mass.) American. Specimens of what the postal clerks have been called upon to decipher are given below, found in the directions; AS WRITTEN. illinose Do Whighte Lowistony M AS MEANT. Dwight, Illinois. Lewiston, Me. NasCai Nashua, N. H. La Wel Lowell, Mass. S F.c Clafonozy San Francisco, Cul. Pihlahdjdia Philadelphia. Nowmarquette Co N H/Newmarket, N. H. Fawriore Furnace, Mass. nh. hill Hin, N. H. Physipee C Pacific Corporation. East Oborn East Auburn, Me. Hamens Bury Amesbury, Maas, follrivveur Mass Fall River, Mass. Jornse mass Lawrence. lorinse Mass (Lawrence. The letters directed as above are known to have reached their proper destination simply through the efficiency of the postal clerks. . "eee Kate. From the United Irishman. Yes, that’s her pieture! She’ was—say forty. Winning? Yes, a8 a girl of twenty. We met under the shadow of a palace, Pretty? More than pretty, and all woman. Eyes? Yes, as black as Citopatra’s; She satd the fire would never die; ‘That black eyes meant lasting love. Huiup! Poke the fire, old inan. Manner and form? She was Just splendid— | Willowy and graceful as a fawn. j It wasa dream, Such ag agents always have. ‘Yes, we met again in our own land. Was tt quarrel? No; ‘Loving more than ever, she said, Under great oaks ‘That grew amid the fragrance of rare flowers. In the twilight we parted for a time. As I went down the dusty road, She sang “Good-by, Sweetheart.” ‘The song was balm tome,“ I thougnt it told ner love—butshe meant It. : as her Jove. we meet again? Pe in the Persian, Kate means wayward. And in this she was a true Perelan. Do T love her? What a question! sett soine one else has. bod re — Yale and rightly, when its yellow face is blazoned on | riect disk, and the wealth of | Naturally, however, esthetic ideas take one direction, conventional ideas another, and a sort of rivalry is engendered as positive, though =e not so disastrous, as the warsof the roses. The | _,— The revival in Cincinnati, conducted by pulfed sleeve, the straizht skirt; the French con- ventional modes to the very long tapering waist, the panniered hips, and the boutunt | drapery atthe back. Yet the latter do not dis- | ‘ion and arrangement of details, and | is essentially opposed tothe other, for it modi- | fact, too, that dress has been taken out of the | manufacturers, and .in a measure relegated to | have probably been hastetied by the unusual | and three well curled tips, shaded from the dark | the foundations, the essentials, nrust remain the , same for a considerabie | h of time, and the | accurding to diversified Higbt, knowledge and | copled from envelopes sent from or to the Law. rence post office, thé capitals being given as RELIGIOUS NOTES, — The Second Street Presbyterian church in Troy is réconstructing its house of worship at an expense of €30,000. —The Union Baptist church in Baltimore, composed of colored people, most of whom are in humble circumstances, has shown remarkable liberality. Its contributions for a year are $3,000, and five of the young men of the church are preparing for the ministry. . — Archbishop Purcell continues feeble in mind from the decay of his mental faculties, and un- disturbed by any thought of his financial | troubles. He requires as much care as an in fant, and receives it loving! Convent, in Brown county, Ohio. —The great defect im the present manage- ment of charities in New York, says the Chris- tian Union, is the lack of central organization. | In Buffalo, where the charities have been orga- | nized for some time, and also in Boston, the | central system works admirably. | Rey. Thos. Harrison, is said to surpass anything yet known in the history of the “Boy Preacher.” The meetings have only been running littie over three weeks, and the number of converts reaches already nearly five hundred. London Record: “Do not suppose, however, that the Ritualists rule, or are likely to do so in this diocese. They will, by and by, make a desperate effort to elect their man for bishop. and will find that blood is thicker than water. — The Christian Leader turns in disgust “from | gridiron parties, Punch and Judy fandangoe: other attractions in order to interest the young | People,” and asks significantly, “Is the house | of God t | gospel preacher to be put in competition with the comedian?” ~The First Baptist church in Indianapolis has a band of young ladies and gentlemen who are united under the title of “Yoke Fellows,” and whe are doing an excellent and much needed work. A feature of their work is to | Visit strangers, and interest them in religious associations and attendance on church service: Many have thus been redeemed from the snares | that’ in every city are laid for the young. publishing a series of articles on Mormonisin in the Preshyerian, waintains that the Mormon problem canuot be worked out simply by abol- | isting polygainy. Morte root Wi ista he holds lies in its hierar ch in its ramifications has entw ned arouud the whole relicious, social, and political | life of its people. The heaviest blow that coald be struck at Mermonisin, theretore, would be to deprive it of its temporal pewer. —The new “Tabernacle” church in | Washington, will, it is expected, be fini | furnished by Friday, the 17th inst. | posed to open the building with an organ con- cert on that date. The dedication will take | Place on Sunday following, 10th inst., and the | Services on this occasion will include the ordina- ‘tion of deacons. It is not knowa detinitely | who will assist and take part with the pastor, | Rey. Dr. W. W. Hicks, in these exereises, but | probably Dr. Talmage, of Brooklyn, and other preachers of note will be here. outh laad | Epiphany this year area ghastly commentary jndze would appoint an execution for Christmas day, though it should fall on a Friday, as Epiphany did this vear. The Epiphany is Carist- mas day for all the Sclavenic race, and it is a | Very sacred day for many other people. A judze who can respect tradition to the extent of re- imembering that Friday is ‘hangmaa’s day,” nac in his choice of Fridays. As long as it is pretended that this is a Ciristian country these scandals should be avoided.” —An English “Agnostic” makes a plea for ; church going, on the ground that it is only in ilies yon that you are remiss in the minor and major moralities. Tt is truly astonishing how much a man will stand froma minister. If Jones calls Brown a liar, Brown imm out from the shoulder and But Brown will go to chi md allow a little fellow, weighing perhaps ninety pounds, te tell him that he is a miserable sinner and is going straight to hades. Brown, so far from wax- | ing wroth, will commend the sermon and put a | £5 bill in the plate. nocks Jones down. b Maine | — The California correspondent of the Herald ve Danaher es a os 3 Pinte Tecan Bin yea, and Presinler says: “1 want to prote nst al lazy and illiteral. | the criticisms of the active, zealous ai members of a chareh, by th think Daniel Lara, the genial } of a Journal | It broth thai some improvement is scribe, this’ morning, the Postwaster | imperative led, if he talks about it, if h General and Lused to carve notches in tie | heads a subscription, if he gets plans and est! beaches of the same district sehooliouse in | mates, some body will say ‘Yes, brother A wa S nd every cold-hearted, | stingy man and woman will echo the sneer. Let critics try to do what they accuse brother inz, and nobody will rejoice more heartily e wantsthe church run. He is tired | of seeing it drag.” | —There was a loud call among the Meth- | odist brethren for a supply of low-priced ing matter to counteract the pernicious effect of the ten-cent stuff which Is so larzely corrupting the yonthful mind. zestion. the Book Concern published two | to run this church,” for older persons. These bear the name of “The Lyceum Librai and sell for ten cents a volume. Dr. Vinceat now publishes his official | complaint that the Methodist public will not bay this kind of ten-cent literature, an although it has for months been on the co not one thousand copies have yet been sold. — It was recently announced that the Rev. George C. Miln of Chicago had become so hietero- dox in his theology that he was no longer at home in the Unitarian church, and that he con- sequently felt the necessity of reaching out iato some relizious fellowship where he would be free to adopt and preach any new theories which might present themselves to his mind. With this view, he was about to give up his chureh. But he has now taken a new view of the situation, and has concluded to remain where he is. Hispeople have urged him to with- draw his resignation, @&d he has consented, they giving him the largest liberty to preach from their pulpit such doctrines as may seem good to hin. —A well-known preacher recently exper! enced a painful sense of suffocation during his preaching services on Sunday, followed by severe pain in his throat after going home. On Monday he felt hardly able to speak, and on Tuesday he could with difficulty utter a Ww By Wednesday tife trouble generally relieve self. This continued for some weeks, al the poor man all the time. and increasin: pain and inconvenience. The suffering clerzy- man consulted a physician, but without a: ail. He then mentioned the difficulty to a friend who happened to be a dealer in shirts and neck- wear. This friend inserted his finger between the clergyman’s neck and his neck band, and at once reported the cause of thetrouble. The un- happy prownlgator of Gospei tidings had been Wearing a collar an inch aud a half too small for fifteen-iuch collar, and had not taken notice of the fact that he was increasing in size te such an extent that a sixteen and a half collar was now what he needed. The sense of relief when. he got a collar of the right size was wonderful. The pain and uneasiness was no longer felt, and the man could now speak with ease. The lesson to clergymen is obvious. —The Maryland Annual Conference, of the Methodist Protestant chureh, will be held in the Broadway church, in Baltimore, next month, commencing on the second Tuesday. This denomination recoznizes the rights of the laity, and besides the ministers, each churci, mission, or circuit is represeated by a lay delezate. Embracing, as it the entire state or Mary- land, with portions of Pennsylvania and Vir- ginia and the District of Columbia, there will be nearly two handred ministers and delegates present. The churchesin this District will show that the denomination is holding Its own, and that they are generally ina healthy condition. Under the rule which permits a minister to serve one station for five years there will proba- bly be but one or two, if any eh in the ts bigot ple Phe first ee is on Virginia avenue, near the navy yard, r Her. 3. W. Gray, will likely be eee int, street, between B and ¥, has Rev. at the Ursuline | — The Observer reprints the following sen- | tences from New York correspondence of the | minstrel singing, calico gutherings, and forty | 0 run urace With the theater, and the | ~The Rey. Dr. Chester, of this city, who is. The real seat of the power of | the | It is_pro- |! — The Churchman says: “Seven executions | in the United States on the Feast ot the | upon American disregard of traditions. No | should go a little further and eonsuit his alina- | jiately tits straight | - | diat At Br. Vincent’s urgent | series of books, one for childrea and the other | him. He had for years been accustomed to a | HOME MATTERS. A Grtwas Parser says that a roof can be made fire-proof by covering it with a mixture of lime, salt and wood-ashes, adding a little lamp- black to give a dark color. This not ouly guards against fire, it is claimed, but also in a measure prevents decay. Burren Scotcu Caxpy.—One pound of crushed sugar, three ounces of ‘utter, put ina stewpan or kettle, and stir often to prevent burning. Try alittle in water; if brittle it is j done. Pour out on the top ofa battered pa ‘and mark it in sqnares. They are 2s go | those you buy. A little grated lemon rind im- | proves tue flavor. | To ReMovs Greass Srors.—Take dry potters’ | clay, finely powdered, scatter it lightly over the Spot, taking care to cover the spot thoroughly with the powder. Hangthe garment near the fire or expose to the sun's rays for an hour or more. Brush off the clay aad all traces of the grease will have disappeared. | ASiweLe-Rewepy ron Dirntueeta.—An emi- nent physician says he cares ninety-nine out of every one hundred cases of scarlet fever by giv- ing the patient warm lemonade with gum arabic , dissolved in it. A cloth wrunz out in hot water | and laid upon the stomach should be removed | as soon asit hecomes cool. Dr. Revillout states that lemon juice, used asa gargie, isan effica- cious specific against diphtheria and similar | throat troubles. fully thus em- | ployed it for eizhtee To Wasnt SILK they will not stiffen: —Put a little by lin bag inte inkewaria water, squ so that the water becomes miiky-lq e quickly wash yi sein cold water; hang 4 there is neither sunshine or fire; iron it, on the wrong | side with a coolish iron. Use no soap at all. Most or THS PRETTY PLagves oF Woop so much used to paint on have no rings on the | back, and consequently eannot be huag on the ‘wall. To remedy this get a curtain ring; | through this put a loop of ribbon or thin cloth and paste or gine this loop to the back of the plaque. Be sure to have it exactly in the center, and do not try to hang it up until it is perfectly | dry. | AN EXcentesr PLay to Save OLD Narkiys | And tablecloths ix to cut vut the good parts and | put them away ina bag, appropriately labelled, ave them ready for use in case of sickness. ewife whose system is so compiete thal it is lard to believe that she as lived on earth only about ferty years gives this advice, and she sheuld keep of flannel, and another w HIEPS so that then ith old cot- Y. Post. block-tin come with a long handie in the tid, so | that the chocolate can be constantly stirred. This is Miss Evarts’ fameus receipt. Take al- ready sweetened chocolate, break into small and place inte a spoonful of boiling water, warm spot to melt. Then put it into a fa- rina boiler, aud pour over it boiling wilk, and minnte the first drop of milk enters it, be stirred. Let it boil several minutes, itis thick and jelly like. With a tride | whip whip up some 700d cream, and cap each | dainty cup with a spoonful of it as you serve | Vanilla chocolate is deiicious prepared iu this | Way. Prunixe Survss.—The Gardener's Monthly gives in substance the following goud practical directions for pruning ernamental shrubs on the | approach of spring: Indiseriminate cutting back | will not answer the desired purpose. Distie- tion must be made between stow and vigorong | growers, and between those which bear fowers nokd wood and these whieh flower on new | growth. Such as grow foo strong to flower well | should be lightly pruned; and in the same indi- | vidual the weakestshoots should be cut in more severely than the stronger ones. Lilacs and the | Philadelphus bear flowers on the wood of last | year, and to prune them much now destroys the Howerlng; while the Altheas and ethers which | flower on the young weed cannot be too se- verely cut im. Tue TrarLinc ArsuTus.—Ia reply to an in- church that the rules ef good breeding are | quiry last year in regard te the transpianting of | _ sufficiently relaxed to allow a man to inform | the Traillng Arbutus, we repeat what we them | | said, that there is no difficulty i taking it up in lhe places where it grows wild and trausfer | to private gardens and although we belie | that aatamn is the time to do se, it can be | done at any time except in the blooming season in April and May. But the work should Be {done with care, the first condition being te | transplant it wien the ground is moist; the | seeond, that the roets mast be disterbed as litfle | aS possible, 2 little soil being allowed to adhere j te thein will be an advantage; and the vine | Should not be bruised, bat can be praned if too uch of it. The transplanting should be dene in a rather shady place, where the vines will not | be interfered with, and partially covered with dead leaves. We have a vine er two now erew- ius upon our prem which were taken up May, and which was not done with as care asthe plant demands. We are often | surprised te see so little attention bestowed | upon this very fragrant and attractive fi { thougi’so hamble and modest im its habit Germantown Telegraph. | Removal OP ForgiaN Bovies From THE Wusppire.—Foreign bodies in any part of the | windpipe are alwaye serious, an@ may be imme- The accident commonly happens i from a ehild having some plaything, such as a | bean, small marble, bead, or netshell, in its and being desired to take it out, when, inthe harry to obey, or possibly from its ination to do so being quickened by a { cull, the fureiga body slips inte the windpipe, ‘and produces serious mischief. In the well- | known case of the late Mr. Branel, the eminent j eagineer, whose life was endangered by an ac- cideut of this kind, it arose from his performing aconjuring trick with a half-sovereign in his mouth, and the coin slipping into his windpipe. | When the foreign body becomes fixed in the up- per part of the windpipe, or larynx, vo as to ob- struct the breathing. the patient becomes black }in the face, and falls back apparently dead. This | sometimes happens during a meal, from a child | or grown-up person happening to cough while eating, and thas drawing a piece of food into the air-passages. Whatever the cause, a bystander jshould, without hesitation, thiust his fore- j finger to the back of the throat, and endeavor to hook up with it the ofeuding body, and this can often be done, when the patient will at once breathe again. If this method is not suc- cessful, the patient, it a child, should be held up by the lezs and be smartly thumped between the shoulders, when not improbably the foreizn body will drop on to the floor, and tie child_will then begin to jire aud cry; but if respiration is still suspended, cold water dashed on the chest will probably rouse it, or, if not, recourse must be had to artificial reapiration. Of ceurse, medical aid will be summoned at once in any case ot serious choking. if possible, but the ma- jority of cases do very well without it. If, how- ever, the foreign body is not dislodged by the efforts of bystanders, an operation will be ne- | cessarv to save life. and every moment will be | of importance. Even if the urgent symptoms have passed off, and the child appears to be re- tones health, yet, if the foreign body has not been found, the advice of a surgeon should, nevertheless, be suught at once, as it may lodved in the dee] may cause. 2 pase mi air ) where it fet it song re ized at an ‘ily Physician, D; cure for Toothache, Loesl or Né ‘250: per bette. Genuine BARLEY SUGAIL tcf Gousha and Coles. GERMAN BTRENGTHENING POROUS ‘ER, 16c.a, : 3for 26c. SALAD OIL, (im- | ported), $3 cal At A.M. TS, PHARMACY. zs ___ 425 9b street northwest. W. H. WHEATLEY’S . ' i AND Wer TNE DRY ote eee enlanh ee and io all parte of the country. — 19) IN | dt GE INE STE FEY Goons. AUCTION SALES. ___ THIS EVENING. — ALTER B. WILLIAMS & O0., Auctionecre HUNDRED AND FIFTY GOLD AND WA ES, TWENTY-FOUR WALNUT F CLOCKS, ROGERS’ KNIVES, SPUORK, FC SILVER-PLATED CASTERS, RKOW, PEBLUARY SROONT j AM. HALY-PAST TWO om ¥ EN P.M., ‘and continuing from day lo day ck if disposed of, al our falee-n00 antl ext. ‘This stock ie to tei © er, and we call special ettention buyers tothe sale, aé the stock as to be closed out rae cash, flat — WALTER B. WILLIAMS & « Aucta, UNCANSON BROS., Anctionners, | ADMINISTRATO EOF GOLD WAT HOUSE RNITUP By virty < B. BIN MES, Jn Of Extate of Martha A. Coukie. de P)ENCASON BROS ON ACCOUNT OF WHOM IT MAY CONCERN, On TUESD\Y, FEBLUAKY Trt, 18 T VE OC M oneenn. | ne to cover aavanoe and charges. had FREDK KOONER. rues DOWLING, Auctions P SUX DESIRABLE "tige FRONTING (ON ON MARKET STRERY, BRUARY THUR, LOCK, in frout © ‘raat tat i ite WM. H. CLAGGEIT, Excoutor, J) EXCANSON EkOD., Auctionvenn, FRAME HOUSE AND Lut ty SHOUND AND THIRD Si TERS sal NX OSTRE ES Tas N ‘trnat, anty reconted ao Teenie at tek amd A depot of 100 ne keIS-cokde se-THE 4 ALE IS Pi NED iy 4 DAY OF FEBRUARY, A JAMES P. LYON, : Sloxds JAMES WO KATCLIFPR, \ Tree FTPHOMAS DOWLING, Avcuoncer. TRUSTRE'S SALE OF IMPROVED LOT ON TWER. Sta SPE T. PENNS\LVANL NUE AND M STREPT NORTH W Jisatourmer mf xaid squase, sabd point foue- teen (4) feet woth of the center of a row of houses jotand ron oe wouth fourteen (14) fest to M aid 20 1 ounes, Chemee weed to Hack h northerly toa line drawn due fron boviiming, and then with nad fine reversed th improvenvaite, cousinting of a two |, Terms of sale: One-half cash; balance in six amd twelve ater Pho Sa interest, secured by rum dead. Teqiired at time of sue. Conveyane- 3 EMN'WILLIAM A. GORDON, ‘Trustee. _ F[BONAS DOWLING, Avctisneer. TRUSTRES' 8: IMPROVED PROPERTY Monon reer enw ray. Be SEA TOR AND BEA) y 5. GEORGETOWN, D.C, | bp Fieve ats Aco use ated the Etch day’ of, 6, sur aay Wasnis ‘except that Sralinss, the part mt te ae hy = 4 ean) nas part ee can’ Pui Hines tie awathiern part of tald Ina. ich was ‘couveved lot, fromiag fost aud 9x (0) lug) on My Mource strect, and run: jot SS gee — wolkh, & SJ BENSINGER, Auctioneer, Be Washington a Carrie Buraar, W104? Loubdane avenue. IORSES, CARRIAGES, HAR- Vey TUESDAY, 7 10RSDA MOLNING, comliwuetae at __ on all constcumente. | j {her Other Auctions |__ GENTLEMEN ew PSUN'S DRESS SHTET MANUFACTORY AND MEN'S FURNISHING EMPORIUM, 816 F Strvet Norihwesty NECKWEAR, FOOTWE. made SHIRTS at ee = cot: wentts, unfit oe tniniea, 90°, Bost F. of the L., nufiur finshed, toe, Boy's Wamsutta, w fnvhed, a WO S.*® ELLERY, SUCCESSOR TO DUBREULL. BROTHERS, MANUFACTURERS OF FINE DRESS SHIRTS GENTS’ FURNISHINGS. 1012 F Sauer Nouruwesr, Wastixozox, D.C. Six of the Finest Drees Shirts to onder. cSt Six Extrs Fine Shirts to order, Six Pine Shists to order. marie W.,. ©, SUIRTS. Suitrs, sancis, We WANT 10 KESIND YOU CHAT We SELL ‘Shirts for the mone; than any other omab- Telowent in Aluerica. "Not that. we doubt your know de of the fs ‘but for fear that you mieht not aver ee a reinder | Mat MEGLNNIDS. the ’ tor | 2a petee to-aay : [he "Mystery Shirt in as ood as any Shirt in Want y Teenie, at Inge A ORIEGTA Nissi 1002 F vtred nortintent 1 CaS TATTEW i prepared ova a hinds ot woe Usble HAT wae ON ade to onder, and St ine. New RELEE Lisi th Dorthwert. Dreka, 1121 Curstxvr Brauer, Pauadnpaie WEDDING INVITATIONS axD VISITING CARDS, AN CORRECT TASTE AND FIRST-CLASS $31-202m EXECOTION. URE CURE FOR MALARIA.