Chicago Daily Tribune Newspaper, July 6, 1873, Page 4

4 THE CHICAGO. DAILY, TRIBUNE: SUNDAY, JULY 6, 1873 $2,000,000 ACCOUNTED FOR. Why It Will Cost $6,000,000 to Itun tho City {his Year. ? Tho Mayor Explains tho Occaston for An In- croased Appropriation. The appropriation, by tho Comtmon Counail " of noarly 86,000,000, o pay tho oxponscs of tho City Governmont and malkoe improvoments during tho prosont municipal yenr, hns ocens . slonod much comment, A great many peoplo oannot sco the necossity of adding nenrly 2,000,000 to the nmount loviod for 1872-'3, Tho sum called for Inst year was £4,200,0004 but in nddition to this, tho city recoivod from tho talo $1,600,000—canal monoy. This year mothing oamo from thils sourco, tho romaindor of tho cann! fund having been retained for the purpose of bullding tho Court-Iouso. To learn tho necossity for tho increasod approprintion, a xoporlor of Tre TRIUNE {ntorviowed tho Mayor yestorday, and obtained from him tho following information: Saidlis Houor: In thoflrst placo, thorois an incrensod spproprintion for street clenning, becauso last yoar tho mmount was cub down ovon bolow what was thought nocessary. Last yoar tho amount was $262,000; this year it was raisod to $916,000, on account of the ropair- ing that will have to bo dbno. T'ho strects woro neglootod Iast yonr, and wera in a fonrful condi- tlon. Last year $40,000 was approprinted . for dredging tho river; it was kuown to bo s grent donl leaa than should lave boon ot apart for tho purposo. This yoar the amount i1 900,000. Thore aro moro bridgos now to take caro of, nud hence tho spproprintion had to Lo incronsed, 'Tho parks, Dearborn and Lako, eto., woro occupied last year, and this yoar $19,000 was approprinted to ombollish thom and put thom in order. I hiave vetood 89,000 of it, wwhich will lenve $10,000, if the Couucil recon- sidor thoir action. An nppropriation of §200,000 wns made to improve the mmitnr{ condition of tho North Brauch ; Inat yonr nothing. This sum fu about balf of what it ‘is cstimatod will be ro- uired to build a twelvo-foot coverad sewer from tho river to tho lake—s part of tho soworngo gystom of tho city, this boing the grand conduit of the North Division, and the uorthern porlion of tha Wost Division. The additions to tho Fire Dopartment—houses, lots, ongines, sto.—requira 166,645 moro than Inst year, and to this must bo added tho pay of tho liromen to run the now apparntus—eeven steamors and two Babcocks. Woe wora also obliged to add $17,800 to the fire alorm appropriation, to cover deficiencies of Inab year, nnl{’ porfoct the systom. Tho scavenger fvork of tho city will cost §24,000 morc thau lost ear; thon thore woro twelve wagons; now {lioie aro. from thirly to forly engagod in crrying off decayiug animal and vegotablo mattor. 'Tho peoplo complained that tho Board of Ionlth way derelict, and henco tho in- oronse to satisfy thom, T tlo Polico Depart- ‘mont, 100 men have_beon sdded, which ropro- sonts o largo smn,—31,000 & yh:co. ar, rather, at that rato for nino months, Tho First Procinet Btatlou is to bo robuilt, nt o cost of 320,000, and provision ig made for o now station-loudo at T'wonty-rocond strect and Bluo Islaud avenuo, which will requiro $16,000 moro. Tho total in- cronso for new buildings, ote,, for this dopart- mont, is about €55,000," 'Fho lnrgest increaso of al, with ore excoption, is that in bohalf of tho schools. Provision has boon mado for building ton mew schwol-houses, and tho pur- chnso of mino lots. Thoeo, with appure- (us ond_ farniture, ete, will cost £400,000. Last year only tho dostroyed schools wore rebuilt, uns we hind to take caro of the in- croaso of childron for two yoars, Thoy must havo school facilities, aud the buildings must Lo sonstructed, or the little ones allowod to run ab Irgo in tho stroels, Lnst year, 3260,000 was sot Soilio for towors; this year $700,000, to drain within a yoar the unsowered portions of tho city 25 for no practicablo. Lnst your the State paid the interest of tho city dobt out of the pro- 30cds of th canal loan—the amount boing 2960, 000, ‘This yenr wo had {o lovy a direct tax of §G650,000, tho water rents yiolding tho remainder, to pay intorost. ‘I'lion wo wors obliged to mako up " robatos of vontais of school Droporty for Lho Ipst thron yoars, Horotofore, the Council bog approprintod us casl the whole reutal as lov- iod on the proporty in 1870 ; but tho™ tonants fought tho city, md got the matter tied np in chancory by injunctions, o that the ity was un- ablo to Togoive any gonviderablo ront. About aino months ngo tho city compromisod with tho tenants for from 20 1640 per cont on tho fivo years, and lost $128,803—that amount boing de- ducted from the original aenomsmonts, — Wa bal to Dborrow money for threo years ast, ot 8 und 10 per cent latorcst, to mako ttup and carry it along. Having aottlod with $he tonants on that basts, a tax had to be lovied $o mnke good the difference botweon what the sity nttempted Lo mako thom pay and what tho tity fnnily nccopted. If tho compromiso had a0t becn mada tho four or five hundred thou- nd dollars that tho tenants owed would not biyo been paid. Tinst yeer £300,000 was lovied for Jighting the city lungs, ofc. About $100,000 camao down {0 ws Trona 1871, and tho cost was 100,000, sio £500,00 had o bo raised this year to light the city wnd cover tho doficieticio —nn _ineroaso Of over $200,000. Last year wa drow from 400,000 to 2500,000 ~for the Stato Cannl fund to support the Polico and Tiro Departnonts, and to robnild burnt bridges. Consoquently & {ax had Lo be lovied equal to tho smm_drawn from thut fund in excoss of lnst genr's uppropriation. + "I'he sums mentionad by the Mayor account for the 2,000,000, aud now thut it is definitely known why the incrensa was made, tax-payors will probably bo satisfied. -— Why the IRed Sen is Onlled Red. A question that hes puzzlod scholars found & golution some timo eitco in the obsorvation of s American submarine divor. Swmith's “Biblo Dic- tionary " diseuuses lonrnodly tho namo of thio Red Bea as written in tho Soptuagint, Tho dictiona- ry surimisos that the nnme wag derived from tho rod westorn mountains, red coral zoophyles, ote., and appenra to givo littlo weight to tho real and natural reason which camo under our Amori- can’snotica. Ou ono ocension thodiver obsorved, whilo under gen, that the curious wavering shnd- owa which cross the lustrous, goldon floor like Frauenhofor’s lines on the spoctrum, began to change and loso themsolves. A purplo glory of intormingled colors darkened the violot curtaing of tho roa chambers, reddening all glints and tingos with on angry firo, Instend of that lus- trous, golden firmament, the thallassplioro dark- oned ' to crimson nud opal. Who walls grow purple, tho floor s red es bloods tho deop itsolf was purpled with the venows hue of deoxidized life curronts. ~ "I'ho view on the purface was oven more mnF- nificont. Theson ot first nssumod the light tawny or yollowish red of shorry wine, Anon this wino color grow instinct with richor radiance; a8 far ns eye conld see, und flashing In the erys- tallino splondor of the Avabian sun, wns o glori- ous Hon of rose, 'L'ho dusky rod sandstone hills with a border of white saud nnd greon and flow- - ored folinga, liko nu claborately wrought cup of Bobeminy gluss onamaled with "brilliant lowors, Liold the sparkling liquid petals of that rosy sen, "I'ho purface, on oxamination, praved to bo covor- ed withn thin brickdust Inyor of infusorin slight- ly tingod with orauge, Tlaced in 1 white glass Lottlo, this chavged into violat, but the wide aurface was that of magnificont and brillinut roso color. 1t was & new and plouuiu?v oxample of tha lustrous, ever varying hosuty of the occan world, It was caused Dy dintomucom, minute n, which, under the microscope, revealed dol- jeato threads gathored in tiny hundlos, and con- taiuing riugs, like blood disks of that curious coloring mattor in tiny tubos. Tlus mirnclo of henuty is not without ita anal- oglos in other sops, Tlie meduso of the Arclio gous, an allied oxintonco, peaplo the ultramuring Dluo of tha cold, piro siea with tha vivid patohos of Tiving groon thirty milos iu dismeter. ~ Theso minute orgunisms ire doubly ourivus Ifrom Lhoir power of astonishing praduction nnd the strango olectrio fire thoy display, Minute na theso microscopio cronturey sre, ovory motion and flash i the result of volition, aud not u mora ehemsio or meehnnio phosphoresconco. Tho L2ho- focaris light a flushiug civrus, on boing irrilated, in brillinnt, kindling sparks, incronsing in inton- sity until the \vlmi’u orgavlum s illuminatod, “I'hio Hiving firo wanlies over its baek, and poncily in greonish yellow light it microrcopio outline, Nordo theso littlo cronturas_luck u bonuty of their own, Their minute shiolds of tluro trins- licont silex aro olaborntoly wrought in micro- seoplo syinbioly of mimic horaldry. "Lhey sre tho chivalry of tho deop, tho tiny kuights with lauco and cuirass, and oval hosny shiold carved in quuint concoils uud ornamontal fushion. Nor wust wo despiso Liiem whon wo refleotupon their awer of ucerction, 'The Gallionellw, invisiblo Ps tho nnliod oy, cat, of thelr horaldlo slilelds and flinty srmor, walo two cuble feot of Bilin polishing wate in four llnfu. By straiulug wew watar, & web of groenish clothof gold, illuminat, od by thelr play of self-genoratod ulnugrlu light, bos haen collocted, Lwmboldt uud Ihrenberg eponkk of thoir voracity, tholr powor of discharg- ing elaotriolty at will, aud their aporting about, oxhibiting nu inlolligont en#nymnnt of tho lifo Godhas givon to thom. Man and his workas Imrlnh, but the monumenta of tho infurorin aro ho flinty viba of tho son, the glant bones of hugo continonta, ionped into mowntain ranges ovor which the granita and [mrplwry hayo ot their slouy ronl foroyer. Man tluiven In hia Jittlo zono; tha populous infusorin erowd overy novlc of enrth from (he remoto poles (o tha burning equatorial belt.—From Lippincolt's Mayazine, L i DRESSMAKERS' MONUMENTS. Nomo Comnnents on fliss Muchanan’s Article on Evolutions in Femaulo Fashionw. g * v the Editor of The Chicago Tribune: Bm: Margarot F. Duchannn's nrtiolo on “ Tyolution in Fomnlo Fashiony," in st Bun- dny's Trinuse, doorves attention, beeausa tho artlclo, not being thorough, willdo moro mis- ohief than good to the genoral rendor. To mako Dross responsible for the dolay, and porhaps ovon dofoat, of the political march of woman, (o make Dress stand, ko Michaol with a flaming sword, nthwarh the goles that lead to iotellectual rights_for onr women, shows ofthor a lack of in- tolloct or o waut of justico. Dress is nob n cause, but an gffect, of that po- sition of onr womon for which the groat oduca- tors of tho peoplo alono are responsiblo. Tho busiuess of the artistic and sclentiflo cos- tumor ia to give form to the thinking and feeling .of her patron, and to be congclons wherever tho Iaws of trigonomotry can bo applied in dronsing tho fomalo body, the most beauliful and porfect form ovolvod out of Nnture's lap. Conacquontly, tho costumer lns only to denl with facts na thoy aroj ovolution will be ap- plied na Boon ns elroumstanceschango. Ordocs L. T. Buchanan, think that it will bo moro diffl- oult for tho consclous costumor to mnako a gar- mont for Minorva than for Juno? But lot us look nt our young snd learned girl, gradunto of the sominary, high school, and dress-makudg establishmont. Born and bred to got marvied, the first con- sideration is to look “ prefy” What that monns tho Chicngo Times prosumos to Inow by warning ite. rendors not to look: Dutchy. Thoreforo, our young graduate goes to work Jiving on ico-croatn and spongo-cako, try- ing lior bost, gonerally, to forco overy drop of blood out of tho system, in ordor to obialn, as nearly ae possiblo, that dolightfully-delicato comploxion exhibited by €ampboll's sign in the window of bus hnir-store, on Madison strook. But how can euch o roduced systom produco that henlthy, and oven oxuborant, condition g noticoable in English and German girls ? Cornes our omaciated, cylindor-shaped gradu- ato of the sominary and high school to the cos- tumors, and wouts o garmont mado, the cut 9! which rests upon Margaret I Buchanan's sei. once, whoso principloa considor only mintomy, ete. Now, with & well-forme fomale figuro, tho walst ought to indiente the invorted truncated cone, and our physieally-ran-down Dhwnanity feels that instinctively in her struggle for existanco, Consequently our costiimer is made to bring all the appliancos of art to bewr in making our grad- uate up and getting Lor into shapo. “As for tho panier; imagine Lady (lay Spankor dropping on the atago with o panier fasloned antal ler] Why, tho iden in proposiorous! Tlonlthy out-door ‘exercleen provided her with that harmony of form which' the rockiug-chair and the pew cannot bostow. — Aud tho_ chignon ju tho logicsl sequenco of the panior. All of thom sponk out loud ngainst poor Agnseiz, and volumes in favor of Dariwin,—indical- ing, ns thoy do, n strngglo for existonco, and an ondoavor of onr womel to Jeep body und mind aflont, M Nor will their efforts remain _unvownrded, for anow sily Ly como Lo their nitd unexpeetedly. That tract of land from which our ** voting enttlo® comos was alvugs reprecontod to onr young graduntes to ba abont as largo os tho Stato of Ilinois. But, sinco its last war with Franco, Gormany has, suddenly como into the foro- ground, and, Gurope speaking Gorman to-dag, Tho Fronch Jangungo tms declined in favor with our Amerienn womeni in the samo proportion ns tenchors of Germau enjoy au incrensied domand. And it is well understood, that, bosidos reading Behillor's “ Tlesco ™ (mny MoViokor take lieed), our Amorican women havo, with all enrnestnoss, commenced Lo study that mino of national wenlth, tho German cook-hooks. : Agnin; it was noticed at Washingion that, sinco tho last’ Gormen-Frouch war, the menufacturo of boor in this country had quadraplad, whilo the monufacture of whisky dechined,—t fact whicl ean only be osplained by our Anglo-American populntion having ehanged their tasto, Aud it 18 fairly hinted at thut our Anglo-American womon aro sipping the German national Leve- cingo behind the blinds, for tho sako of thoir shottored nerves, their unehapely tiguros, and their woskencd brain-powor,—ior thoir inatinct, if not vegotnblo physiology, will toll thom that the massive brain of a_ Ilismarek could only hoyo beon prodiced by the favored bovorage of liis, whiclrho profers any timo to that fusipid drink called chumpagne, hand- od to Jum in tho gardons of tho Tuilories by tho Tmperor Nupoleon. Of courne, Bismarck could not for & momneut think of catryiug on tho af- fairs of n gront Bmpire on an ice-cromn and spongo-cake dict. g . Aguin; our largo inigration to (,]crmnny in tho shopo of tourists wili wist, Those tousists, who sit to-dny in the public gardeus of the * Nn- tionof hinkers,” and onjoy their scieutifio living Lugely,exclimingoverandover agnin: W hyean we not have it 8o~ in Ametien,” will como homo with an onlarged horizon, and explain to their wondering fomale relations tho soceret of *how {o grow fat,"—s. great problom i our Auglo- American oircles:” A futuro Buckle will writo abont the immenro influenco oxorcised by the Inst Gorman-Fronch war upon the Anglo-Ameri- cant race,, physically, intollcctually, sud morally. But to retarn to our graduate: With an improved diet, and o scientifle, or, what is the same, natural way of living gen- erally, it is yob to Vo oxpecated thut “tho presont _generation will enap thelr flugors at lio prophccics of Dr. Nathan Allen. But this will not bo afl, ‘Phe improved physical condition of our graduato will ronct powerfully upon hor sonl, but especially wpon ey inlellect.,” A now i petus will ho given to tho lattor. ‘Whero our eraduates formorly ransacked, aud continually fopt ompty, thiono sholves in out public libraries whero tho eilly and insipid love-stories nro kopt, there will boin futuros vigorous dumand(of course Gorninn_cook-boola) and their intelloctu- never losing_ ight of tho for Iluxloy, Darwin, ote., ally and morally boldor mantors, the great Gor- mavs, Hnecklo, Moloschott, ofo. A new and vigorany intellectual atmonphore will porvade the country. Whoro our women formerly ns- sistod Iu keoping tho atmosphore closo, thoy in futuro will be foremost in removing the ineu- buy hanging over our critio's head, Whon ho, in 2 Tneoling position, attompts to erlticizo tho works of our gront mastera of natural science, Our womeu will Joavn that ¢ porverted systom of aducation nud artificial way of living bas almost raified their bodies rud souls out of existonce ; that it is high timo for them to yoturn again.do tho bosom of Mothor Nature, and paviako frcely of ber groat suporabundance for tho body and mind. And onr women will do it, for- tho times when slaves danced upon tho auctivn block are prused, y v ‘Phen, too, “YXvolution in Dress™ will nesort ftaolf, and Art will invont costumey in perfoot haraiony with tho physical and montal doyolop- mont_of our women, \'urlrfllm: my nlatemont that Dressfs nol o cnuse, bub au elfect, of the presont position of tho sox. Payixa. A Defenso of ¢ Drosvmatiors? Nonus nrents? To the Iditor of The Clicano Tribune : Bm: Among tho wonders of the progrerrive ago Iu which wo live s, that 5o much I talked and writton to, for, and abowt womon,—not by men only, to whom we shall always be more or loss o mystory, but by womon themsolvos, An old doctor onco said that, when he did nol know what niled & pationt, he tronted him for deranged liver. Tt strikos mo thab tho cuse of Tiorateurs ganerelly in similar at tho present thne, Whene- over thoy lack » thowe, they yo for Women, It 1 o orodit to tho sox nt Iargo to kmow thet thero i unough of thom to-keep tho pot hoiling wo long and wo furionsly, for, T vonture to assert, thoro in not another subject thut could bonr withont total domolishmont such an fuflnito va- rloty of criticlsm, ridlculo, ndvice, ny han been lurlod, insinuatod, babbled, by overy class of persong, as the offonkoless nnd dofonnolosy womon, That mon should cavil ab ng oceasionally is not #o much to bo woudered al ns that ono of ot own kind should aesumo the aggrossive, aud souk diligoutly sitor flawy, only to hold thom up to ridioulo, Mon with finor nonso of honor— oan oaprit do corpn.whioh i n erodit to them—do- fond ono anothor, unloss somothing I8 to bo gnined by an attack, and oven thon will rarely ¢ oxposo thoir wonknossen, Certainly it requires mora (han o little oheap applause from (ho oppo- sito sox to minko thom turn and rond ono of thomeolven, But with un, to eator to a viclous tasto, which men are supposed lo ponsoss, for honring’ womon derided by oach other, wo misemploy our bralns and pons,—succcoding, porhaps, in winning a languid smilo or enrcastic commondation from the man of tho porlod, bub neither galning nor deserving roppoct or ro- gord from oldor and mora thoughtful mon, whoso good opinton is worth having. Writors of this class of aorliclos tako the ground, spparontly, that mon bolong to & diffor- ent ordor of hoings,—forgotting, npparontly, that it s in tho ranks of womon thoy find mothers, wives, and daughtors ; and a still more eignificant fact with it, that mnlo children in- Lierit from the mother, and fomalo childron from tho fathor,—a law of Nuturo vory woll undor- stood by medienl writors, as could be proved by quotation, If spaco pormiited. And tho male roader of the stinging philippie, if he only know it, is langhing ovor his own wenknossos, trans- mitted by Nature to the daughter. . But, taking it for grantod that women aro in actutho idicta that thoy aro logally, tho ques- tion to bo considored is, how {o make thom bottor, I, nwoman, contond that tho moans is not & for sharp or s‘nug'y roviowa of tho moro noticeablo follies of tho ago; that thoy are not improved by baving . their litilo wenknesses parndade bofore tho gonoral publio 3 that our influonco aud nsofulness are weakonod, and our chancos of matrimony—the summuns bonum of our sox, according to those would-bo entiriste—decronsed, Of whnt bonefit ia it, when ono ig Bick, to hnve n physician toll us, * You aro vory ny you have n lonthsome and con- tagious disordor ; unloss something is dona nt ouco, you will becomo oithor a helploas, liopeloss invalid, or epoedy denth will result,”—if ho thon Jonvos us 7~ What sick mon demand from thoso who profess to understand tho causo, proveu- tion, and cure of disonso, I8 action. ' Thoy re- uire and l{my for romodics that will curo the illnoes, and advico that will onable them to pro- Borvo the ouro after it is wrought. And it ia the caso with women. If thoy lave follies, an officions and offensive parado of thom will bo of no benefit, unless nccompanied by some theory or aystom that will enable thom to obvinto tho dificulty or supply the dofect, A ‘caroful, physicinn, called to scon patient, conniders, firat, tho symploms prosont; second, the habits; and, tbird, the ontecodonts, beforo hio tan malke a docision eithor ns to what nils hig subject or tho trontment to be preeeribed. I roposo to follow tho analogy, and append, from "uk Circago Timonr of Juuo 29, the symptoms of tho provailing fominino disorder,—the ar- rangement of which, by tha by, reminds mo of Alexnndro Dumas’ novel whon ho was to be paid by the pgo: Compression of the heart, lunga, aud Iiver. Gomprossion of Uia fect, il tiplug of th eels. Dyed, burned, aud crimped hodr, Trecklo-orasers, balon, rouge, oyebrow-derk, lip- carminator, and nail-pink. Ear-rings, . Helladonuia o brighten tho eyes ; and arsenl, slato- pencilk, and pie fo whilen the face, A humip on tio back, Fans Jike daggers, umbrelias ko ebillelahs, and knopsucks Inborionsly [laboriously in gond, Stotty wonld_ remark, but siot apropos] buckled arouud tho wasled place eilled the woist, Ilair clipped ou tho forchead, Tloattng hair, *Boncon-light to evory woman whoso ey full ho lews braine inelde tho hicad, {hg mord hair ouglt for tho ontside of It, [Irrelevant, Nolasymp- tom, tnt & comment.] g Al ths ornuments possible to Lo golten upon tho haad, bauds, aud neck, Disensio: Gonoral montal and physical weak- noss. Proguosis : Univoranl helplossuoss and nao- leusness. Ttemedy proporod : ““ What are the learnod gitl-graduatos gomyg to do about it 7 ¥ *'T consider that dingnosis incorroct and nujust. It is truo that girls aud women lovo dress, hut not tho girls of this gonoration alono, Wo nio not the only onos who have nsed cosmotics,—I leard o gontleman call it fiescoing tho othor dny,—n bottor word than ealzimining; who havo worh our bair other than flm\'inq,-—-bcclm!u,' petinpn, wo bnwo ol o vy blond choveluro, ut locks of Indian straightucks and huo, ane squaws do not look literavy; or who havo pinched our feot, squoczod our walats into cor- fets, hung ornnmonts in our eaws, aud other- wise bedecked and bedizenod our forms, and painted, patebied, and rouged our faces. + From all time, womon have adorned them- selves, and to nll timo will continue it ; and it iy propor and right thoy should. It Iy a8 natural Tor a young gitl to love and wear bright colors na for the applo-treo to ndorn iteolf with blonsons fu the spring ; and ib iy woll enougl to romember that thae trees which hear no blossoms bear no fruit. The girl who is #o dovoid of tasto, encr- gy, und obeorvation, that sho will not exort hor- solf to be plensing, will beconie eithor a sour, disngroeablo, bittor spinator, or o slattornly, geltish, uncomfortablo wife and mother, whoso houso willbe no home for cither husband or children. 'Tho taste, thon, is a natural tasto in- heritod from generations who have inditlged in it; and yot wo ao born. _ Cortainly they did not live in wvnin, motwithstanding our grandmothers and great-grandmothors, for 80 long & period as history covors, dressod, not morely to cover their nakedness or proteet their bn]umrs from tho weather, but for ndornmont's suko, ‘I'ho mothers of our brave men who volun- teored in such numbers, and, alag ! died in such numbers,during Lhe laté War, woro guilty, if guilt there bo in if, of all theso follies ; and yet their sons wore o eredit to them and their country. T'ho mother of Napoleon the Grent, from whoin lio inherited all the %axdun ho possessud, woro olipped and curled hair and onr-rings. ucen Elizebeth, with an intellect and will that made lier famous in history, was moro n slave to torturing, proposterous fashion than any dressmnkor's nonument of the prescnt. 1loops, cosmetics, wipy, corsets, shwes, beside wliich ours are naturoitself, nnd ornnmonts com- pared with which onr modest jowels must pale thoir inoffectunl fires, wore in form when Shak- #ponro and Sponcor sung {hoir immortal songs when Bacon, nnd Rtaleigh, avd Hooker fought with sword snd pon ; when Frobisher and Drake Toft, thoir names to postorily as synouyma for bravery and courago. And tho mothors of theso men arrayed thewmselves in the fashions of tha duy, more absurd, lees comfortable, and vaatly less ornamontel and graceful, than ours, Undoubtedly, Cornelin woro lor bair in the l’u‘m‘niling stylo, and Lathed iu nsses’ milk to toop her complaxion pure; woro bracclots on hor arws and loge, and robod hornelt in fabrics of forcign looms, and perfutnod with spicos from distant shores; yot shio was {he mother of tho Gracehi, sud hor litorary attninments wero con- pidorad worthy of montion by contomporancaus authors, It is not venity altogether, nor folly, nor wickedneas in women Lhat thoy desire to” make themselves pleasing Dy tho nidy of dross. The Croator, who gave thom such burdons to benr, gavo thom n largor devolomnent of approbatives nags than won, without which we conld not'ho hold to our dutios, involving, aa they do, so much confinomont, rostriction, aud pain, * The love of approLation makes us fond of dross, and, withe out it, wo are—Nizs Anthonys. Our stylo of dross, notwithstanding the strict- uros of the popular writer, is not unhenlthful, Wo liva na long; as our mey, who dresa ontiroly on contrary principles. Wo hoar as many and an healtly children as wa ought in proporiion to aur popuintion. Wo attaln greator hoights in- tollestunly than any- prosious genoration. Wo conld buvo tho ballet if we ecarod to tako it, ‘What more do wo want ? Wa aro not loss Christians in_ wilks and Inces, corsots, and false buir, than in pelticont, and short-gown, and mufled cap; not less faithful wives, nor less tonder mothory, in volvet and din- monds, than i lingoy und brogans, Tut, for argnment's sako, wa will any that our oustoms of dross nro savego, rolics of hurbariem, und unworthy n Christian race und orn. Whoro in the romm]{? 1n cutting snreasm,—seathing robuko,—ridlcnle that horders on cosvioncss ? T think not, I would lonyo this flold to mon, and teach womon how to be hottor aud wisor. Uivo thom n romedy,~broad, and not a atono. L'oll the thousunds of womon whao drift iutopros filution ovory yout for tha want of a_holping hand at o critieal moment, whero to iurn for bread, snd hLow to oarn, it. Lducnte the thoussudy of cuildron* who are growing up into the dangerous elnsuon. oot (ho bwarms of youngg givls how to hocono zood und rolinhlo assintunts lu domostio life, T'oll the many inguiving girls what to rond and loary, keo and hoar, (Hvo thom the rosults of Whit'wo have lenrnad, that can holp thom with o clonror undorstunding of life, so problomati- cal nt tho outsoel, or that ean clonr thair vision futo tha fulure. Clive thom the bonollt of ox- porienco, thut {hoy may hegin whora wo lanve Off, mnd 'theroby got. into working condition 8o muich tho enrlier. . Lhoko nra u Fow of the ways in which womon of gomus con holp thoso who wro loss fortunate; and wo look to thom, ne snoh, to become leudors of Lhe masses, who wait only for s leador to follow, The influonce of o facilo pon fa folt far and wido} and L would hovo, therefora, from women's lundy, intelli- gont, holping ~wurdu of encouragomont for thuse who aro atriving,—ihformation for thaso who inquiro,—nmusemont for those who aro fotterod by the caros of family tifo. . " Tho inoronsed oducational advaningzos of tho rmuum mnkg girls moro rostloss and smbitious ; hoy ara on the qul-vive - for evory sontonce that drops from ‘a_woman's pen; their minds aro fallow soil in which to sow good weed ; hut thoy do not noad to bo taught ‘sareastio vituporation, ab lonst nntil thoy got the hallot. Our glrls aro studious, fond of books, netive In mind and body ; but thoy, are now, sy over, will- Ing tolay at tho foot of tho comlnf mnn overy faculty of intollect and henrt; sud the quick- onod Intelloct fa all tho bottor adapted to moot tho requiromenta of the othor kox. Whon _womon oan maot_mon on thoir own ground, intollectunily and politically, thon, and not till then, will the roal substance of marringo bo roslized, Thoy will not usurp tho places of mon, unloss they bo *‘tho fittest,” whon thoy ought to *‘survivo;” but they will be com- pnuions ng woll na wives, and wo shall not sec 80 many middle-nged mon who aro dishoartonod and dikgustod, womon who aro living livos of possive endurance, and children that, born in a whadow, livo in o shadow and die in o shadow. Ho long aa thoro are ko many wrongs to cor- roct, o many woalnosses Lo utronglhon, eo many hopoless ones to choor, ©o many strlving that nocd asslstanco, and to whom ~ strong, bholpful words from a wonifin who fne Ilabored and suceeoded, woul bo 8o nccoptable aund profitable, thoro In o flold wido anough for tho dlsplay of any gonius or ncquiremonty that wo may pos- goss. Ho long as high-handed corruption, open crimo, unbridied liconso, scofling unbelier, anr- round us on all sidos, thoro oxista nn enemy sgainst which Batire* may turn its keon blada with credit, and, in its attnolc on tho groes faults of tho nge, may woll afford to ovorlook tho harmless little vanity of sohool-girls, who, in spite of vanity, have accomplishod much in tho way of study, and who, in lnces and din- monds, or in linen without jowels, will, grow into living, fnithful wives nud tendor mothers. Tho quostion of tho out of our gar~ monts is not vital. Our men arc ns brave, g wieo, and 08 loyal to their Govornmont and to us a8 whon thioy droseed in skius of bensts, or in tho flowing robos of Rome, or the kneo-broeches, bucklers, and wigs of the Inst contury, Aud wo are no vainer, no more extravagant, no woalkor, thon the women of corresponding time, On tho contrary, we nro steadily growing, and every yoar brings us more into_ absolute companion— shi[: with men, in thoir widor range of thought and intolloet. ~ Thoro arc ~ mon who will rond thoso words that Inow what companions womon of mind ‘mako,— who appreciato the sontiment oxprossed in tho dodication of John Stuart Mill's ook to his wifo, and can underatand snch friondship as ox- iuted botween Disrncll and the Conntess of Benconsfield. And yot these wero women who, dressod in thie provalling utylo, undoubtodly did wenr corsets, falso hair, aud on ocoasion powder 5 yet _wero they to their husbauds no leustho nding apirit, tho motive power, at onco tho lossom, and perfumo, and fruit of lifo, with- ont whom, whon thoy wore tnken, existeuco soema like n gardon affer n frost. . 1 would rather soo ah empty-headed girl of the oriod, if such n being exists, dressed in the ntout. freaks of Fashion, displaying all thosymp- toms of the provailing opidemic, oven to tho daggor-fanand shillolah-umbrella, than to sco in print, over u woman's signature, articlos that, whillo Uiy display ability and rosearch, oxhibit no lendorness, rendor no assistanco, fo othor women less gifted, lean ablo to face & frowniag public. Tho former is muking (ho bost of hor meagre ondownment, a face aud figuro ; whilo tho fatter in wasting on tho merost bagatello, oniug, talent, capucity, thut ought to becomo o up- TANKY. AMONG THE KANAKAS, The Delicions LomisLonii-~An Inters esting Description of the £rocesss srom the Alte Californta, Tha interior of 'tho nutive hut, whore wo now aro, has & very pleasant, clean appearauce, with an odor of frexh grasos, and an aromntio fragrauco from the numoerons wroathe of maili, or native myrtle, whicl, stripped from the wood, withall its bright greon loavos nttached, is foshionod into garlnnds and wreaths, with which to dock thoe rafters and crossing-poles of -tho houso, \ ‘Fho Interior is divided into throe compart- monts by shicets of snowy kapa, or bark cloth, sunpended from the poles that sirotch ncross tho Lt from wido to side and ond to ond, tying tha walls togother. The floor is covered with small amooth pobbles, over which aro Inid heavy mats, braided of tho lonvos of the halg, or ‘merew- palm.” Theso mats are made the all siza of tho Toom thiey aro to bo used iu, and boing piled one over the other, rondors tho floor soft and yield- ing to the foot. Reclining upon_ thoir smooth, cool surface, with a pulu-filled pillow boneath our honda and sovoral moro ekitlfully adjusted 'nenth our limbs by the old lndy before montioned, we as- certain thal we can enjoy tho novelty of n lomi- lomi ; aftor our long rido wo fool that mothing would he moro accoptablo, ond wo arrango our- eolvos for tho operation. g Hirolched out npon the smooth, fragrant mats, wo nro surprised toseo kueoldown by us n couplo of young nnd ploasant-looking females, whom we lad not seen about the premises bo- on ib. ore, ‘Wo nre not disposed to be over-curious in tho matter, chiofly. becausa we do not care, and in eddition, we do not wish to delay the procoss to which we havo submitted, i With a preliminary smilo that roveals o set of mout bosutiful testh—all hor own l—our yotug friond proceeds to kinond and mould our litnbs with hor small, woll-shaped hands, tracing with doxterous ngors the courso of our tired mus- clos, and by lier sciontiic manipulation dviving from themn all Intont nachos, nnd cnusing them_ to tingla delightfully, Each joint is floxed and refloxed, until wo feol a8 supino as old rags. With & poculinr rolling motion, tho knuckles of their Lands aro molded into tho angles and curves of our bodies, and this is pro- louged until all eynllltumu of involuntary resist- ancoon our part have vanished, andwo aro rolled from sido to eide and knonded into a stato of blissful lagsitido that leaves us nothing to de- siroin tho way of perfect rost, Our hends aro monipulited by being forcibly prossod botwoon tho palms of tho hands, in such & manner s ,to soomingly sonsibly ulter tho shapo of our sinolput and oceiput. All of theso motions tond to drivo the latent headaclo down the spine, and by forcibly pinching tho back of tho neck the operetor sonds & _wseriea of clectrice thrills through our bodies, und out to tho tips of our fingors and roes. + All the while the gentle palmists have boen oeping up & censelesa chattor with each other, ot only Loing totally uuintolligible to us,-but soft end harmonious with voeals, producing somowhat of the offect of morry wator rippling over u pobbly bed in some alindy recoss of w deop cove wood, Thoro ia o dremny fascinntion, too, in tho atendy guzo of o puiv of full, eoft Llack oyes, honyily sbaded with long, eilkon lashes, and in thoir futhomlesa flu\atha wo rond unuttorablo thinga. Avout thia timo wo begin to wish that wo ad nau})m‘flcln.l aren of body, lke Dauiol Lambort's, in order that the process mny bo in- dofinitely prolonged ; but, such not heing the onso, and our ontire bodies having been gono over mora than onco, wo nro foreod: to diemies our lomi-lomi-iets, when thera is no longer auy oxouso to dotain thom, ; ‘I'hore is o glorious feoling of rost stealing over usag wo lis upon tho soft mats and lintlessly gnzo through tho open doorway ot a group of natives squutted around o huge ealabash of pol. We aro too supremoly indolent and comfortable to fool any hungor at tho sight, and aro thoro- foro well content to rommain whero wo are and wateh them. I'hey hovo aprend clean mat upon tho sur- tace of pobblos that form the platforn on which tho hmt stands, and, plncing n tho middlo tho calabneh spokon of, full of the party-lookiny l)m;mmtlan of kalo, called poi, arvango nround littlo hoaps of dried fish, DLroiled squid, roasted Jt-lewi nuts, snlt, sonwedd, eraba, and shrimps, Than tha family, with all tho otliors that chancs to bo prosent, arrange thomsolyes In o oirclo, within arme™longth of tho poi, and the fenst bo- gina, Virat, & shallow cnlabash filled with water is hauded round, into which they dip thow fingers and thon dey'thom on a bt of kappa. _‘Tha wloovo of the right arm u_tucked up, and puo after the other they dip, ono, two, or throo fingers into the plastic pol, and, with & dextrouy twitd, oxtrinck o masn virying in sizo accorning to tho possiblo dimensions of tho mouth to which it 1s conveyod, There is a practiced skill ovincad in tho mismer in which this font fs por- formed, The hond s thrown back, the eyos oclased, tho nonth oponad, and tho adhosive nikey vaunishos, ‘Che fingos are withdrawn—ocloan, and a pinch of snlt placed on tho tongua an tasted with a smacking rolivh thut almest makon our mouth witor, At times wo note one puune with bwo or threo fingern londod with pof, which is kopt from falling off by gently waving to and {ro, and turned from sideto sido (n the alr, while tho hoarer makos aremurk, or joius in the henrty Inughtor that in nlways Lroaking ou ; aftor which down goes the lumnp ““with neatuoss and Qispateh,” ur foie lomi-lomi-ists Join the gronp, and, while room i made for them, wa are able to tell, from n cortain embarrssod air thoy wonr, tos gothor with tho froquont ropotition o f the word koali, or '‘whito man,” ‘that thoy aro boing Joked with on our account. ‘Tho ITawalians aro o grent pooplo to laughy it comen to thom na onay ns lying, and they ine dulgo In both on any and uvnrr ocenslon, ‘What with the fooling of lassitudo thint hnis eropt over us in consequenco of the lomi-lomi- ing wo linve undorgons, onbancod ns 1t it by the porfect reposn around us and tho hrxurious coolnosn ol tho eoft mats, tho drowsy influence of tho soft air stirring tho rustling lonves of tho thateh ovorhend, and tho knowlodge of tho fact thnt wo havo nolhing elso to do, wo drop asleop, with the vision of n plumy kahili, or fonther- fan, waving to and fro over our heads. prbsiet s sl THE VIENNA EXPOSITION. 'The Amorican Departmoent, Vienna (June 16) Cnyfu{,:,nn;(fma of the New York ‘orld, Tho first Improseion producod by our dopart- mont {6 that of erudity, amounting to downright uglinoss, Whilo every othor nation line striven to mnko the mont of its rosources, grouping and decorating tho cascs with on .oyo to ortistic offect, viowing onoh einglo objoct not ouly by itwolf, but aluo in connection with tho color and glinpo of tho surrounding objets, 50 ay £o pro- duco hnrmun{ and Hmpnmu“' wo hiave beon con- tont apparently to dump down our tronsures in linos and piles, s if thoy wora so many shenves of wheat. Whon I contrast our offorty with, for instanco, tho beautiful collaction from Princo Bchwarzenborg's eostatos, or with the pyramid from tho Duteh colonion—(I montion iutontion- ally only such things na cin bo_compared liko with liko and take no notico of the East Indian. Tavilion)—the disngrecablo suspicion fastons ftsolf upon me thai we aro lncking in a feoling for the-bonutiful. We make good articles—avon I:ratr,y articlos now nud thou—but wo do not mow how o combine. For instanco, wo have in our northern transopt a pyramid of cotton: and other Sonthorn produce. Aa an ides it is zood, but o an object it, is simply ugly. Tho butch colonics huve built o pyramid fauitioss fn its proportious, completo iu it dotails, graceful in outline nnd decorntion, In its way itisns much n worl of art as_was over & Gothio cathe- dral, It suggests tho lands from which its mn- torinls camo. Ours Buggcnts nothing but the poverty of invention of tiio builder. Tho ordinary visitor will stroll through tho Amorican gallory, and sny to himself, Is this all thut tho boastful Westorn land can show ? The Judge, the critio, tho connoigsonr will take a deopor view, nnd discover that our exhibition is profoundly suggostive, not of art, but of brains. Atthough slovenly arranged, tho singlo articloa arg not only g]v(eud, but frosh, original. Thero- 18 hiore no wor ln{; up of ‘atalo idens. Almost every single artioloroyonls in its mnker an innato slriving aftor something now and bottor,—n stoady atriviug upwards. - It fs not my intentlon to oxhuust our department in tho presont lotter. Noither iy it my intention to lnzard any prophecies. But I cannot refrain from say- flui(: tlus much, that when tho jurics como to tuko our exhibition into account, tho unthink. ing public will loarn once moro that England, Trance,.and Austria aro no matoh for American invention, even in its poorest sotting. Many an unpretonding Amarican cnso or platform wlil o found to have distanced complotoly its more showy competitors. Xam not speaking now of machinory. ‘There wo have no competition at all. In tho onliro machinory hall there is searcely o new idea that is mot borrowed or stolon from Amorica, I alludo atprosent to our much deeriod gallery in the pelace. Jven horo, in our worst estate, wo aro going ta boas our *rivals most unmorcifully. In the first place, some worda about onr exhi~ bition of photographs, Tho Yosemite views are ot merely fine, but tho fingst in their way in the entiro palnce, As specimens of landsgapo ]flmtogrnphy thoy aro without a rival. ‘Pho’col- ootion iu tho Lnglish dopnrtment s, I confesn, mworo intorasting, but rather beenuso of the sub- jeots roprosentod. Tho studont and critic will nlways tako o doepnr iuforcst in tho roprosonta= tions of architocturo than in mero views of mountain and vulloy, howover fino they may be. The formor have inthom moro of tho human oloment. A pholographic picturo of thio I'nj Mahal has greater claims upon ug than ono of Shadow Lako. Bt na photographu, I ropeat, tho Yosomito viows are tho best in Vienna, and I can on'y regratthatthore are no more of thom framed and proporty oxhibiled, Ton or twolvo occupy n couspicuous position'in &_good light, boing placod around o low caso in tho central aislo. Others agnin aro hung along the walls in tho northern transept, too high up to bo well ecen, Of portrait photograpls thero is sbundanoo. Kurz, of New York, occupies the mozt conspicu- ous porition, liy collection heing tho firat objoct that siriken ono on outoring anr soutbern tran- sopt. 'The pictures aro arcanged on tho front of n long, high enso Lhat slands dirootly across ihe nxis of tho transept, twouty or thirty fect from tho entrance. Tho back of tho caso, fac- ing tho other way, i3 occupicd by Vau -Loo, of Cineinuati, In Sonoml, I am’ rather disap- pointed in Kurz's digplay, Thero aro too mauy emall pictures, and too few lzrge oner. Lhe oxecution i thronghout faultloss, only too flnished. Tho female portruils, cspecially, nre #0 much Louched up that one is uf o lows Loknow whero the work of the camern ends aud that of the brush begina. 'I'wo or throo portraits are so Tighly finished that thoy aro rathor printings in indinsink than photographs, and produce the enornl offect af mozzo-tint or slippla engrav~ inga, Tho chiof faults that Ifind in Kurz's work aro tho following: In the first place, tho tints aro too cold. Any one plotggraph by itself might escape eriticism, but tifo collection as whole is positivoly chilling. The other fault in that the photographor has noef only sont eomougly faces, but has” even spqjled somo good aucfl:y putting them in uufavorable attitudes. Irom theso two causes, coldness of tiuting and want of udicious weeding or posing, na the case may o, it rosults that Kurz's colleetion will not com- are favorably with thosa of Fajans and Miockz- cowskin, of Warsaw, or with some in the Hun- garinn ‘iepnrlmont. Here_wo liave handsomo aces judiciously and, and surrounded with an atmosphore aud tono that suggest warmth and life. Where thovo qualities nra wanting thoir shsonco cannot bo atoned for by moro careful workmanghip. . As an Amorican in Vienns, I should Lo very.loth to let the presont collection pags curront here as a fair sample of Amorican female boauty, On {ho othor linnd thera is a gob of untonched photographs, 12 in_numbor, like- nouses of American celobritios of the sternersex, ooucerning _which mpothing but praise can bo enid. Not only aro thosa good like- nossos, but thoy aro good pictures, ensy, woll-posed, nttractivo. ~ Bo faultless i tho worlananship that tho Continental photo~ graphors havo bard worle in believing that they nro untouched, although the negatives aro bere tobo pioduced in_proof. The jury, I oxpoct, will bronk gheir hoads, ns thd Gormuus say, over thoas untouched portraits. * Van Loo's colloction diffors from Kurz's, It containg fower and Javgor pictures, and many of thom nre not liketloses, but gonre photograplis of Amoriean stroot lifo, Tho exoeution is good, aud tho subjocts of tha gonre pictures are very attractivo to tho Austrions. 1t is probably tho fleat uplmrlunil.y tnat llmfl hiwvo had of makiy thomsolves acquainted with our bootblncks and nowsboys and butcher-boys, T'ho photographs by Rocher, of Chicago, avo above the American sverngo, and thoso by Laudy, of Cinclunati, considerably abovo It, Our makersof gold pens also make a good ghow. Johnson & Co., Morton, aud Fairchild are represonted, and the last has_an ospecially Iargo and fin caso, Anthony, of Now York, Las Jarge and well-assortod colleclion of storescopio viows of American #couory, which aro not ouly goad in thomsalves but aiford much entoviain- ment to tho non-Amorican public. I doubt whother any othor display In the *mlm:u ia 8o full or 5o uttrnctive, Tho propared plates for forro- types, and tho multiplying camora for thom, are apparently something now, nud excite no Tittlo curlogity,” On ono of tho walls aro some framos filled with somo apocimons of tho worlk of tho Nationa! Bauk Note Company. Ono scos hore note ongraving for our own Covernment, and alo for Sweden, Italy, Dolivin, Peru, Japan, and many other mnationu. Unprotonding ns the displey” Is, it gives an ox- collont iden of the perfeotion to which we have brought noto angraving, and tho extont to which wo havo made othor nntions tributery to us, Praug's ehromo's do not avinco progross in that Qopartmont. 'Tho colors aro as glaring ns ever, and tho subjeots aro not of a highor grado, Whittlor's ““Hnrofoot oy " Is still tho mont ngreoubla of tho lot, and overy ona hug soen that yours ego. Aftor the photagraphs and kindred objoots comey . miccolluncous display, into tho pnrticu- lars of which I eannol ontor at )]u‘akmllt. 1 pre- for to lonve this tranwopt for the opposite or northern ono, which wo oceupy in connectlon with Yonozuoln and Druzil, Our rhare of it iy botweon a third and s half, Tho most steile fug objoct Ju tho cotton trnphr con- fronting the outrunco. Bo much undesorved ridienlo hay boon enat upon this trophy thet I fool cullod upon to doscribo it fully, ‘and to Juntify it by atating oxaotly tho iden Lt it Iy fn- Tondoil to incorporate; At Lho Parls Exposition of ‘1867 the samples of cotlon weve 8o inforior and insignifieant that tho Comminsioner obyorv- od, In his raport, * that the yory high ?n'nmlun\u given by the imporiat Jury eould not lnvo been on aceount of the quantity or quunlity exhibitod, but rather on account of the previous knowledgo which tho jury possessed of the groat value to tho human race of this gront Amorican staple,” In other words, wo_made nu inndequato show at Puris—n blunder which has not boon ropeated at Vionna. Tho dliplay hore s not only Inrgo butitis comprelionsive, Tho unit in tho cotton trada {1 not a pound or a samplo, but & bale, In rncnfiumnu of thia fact, the Now Or- lonny and the Mobilo Colton Exchanges havo sont whole hales instoad of moro samplon, 'I'ho aveangoment of the pyramid {s as follows : Tho | Dbasa is comportd of eight bales from Now Or- leans, sot on edgo and arrmitgod o ne to sprontd out like tho spokos of o whoel, On top ef theso aro fonr moro bnles, from Mobilo, sot on ond. The bales in each caro aro of difforent grades, are cut opon at ono ond, and stamped with the name of the grade. rhua any ono who chooses to oxataine can oo and fecl for himsolf tho dif- faront qualition of cotton and got an iden of how tho trado in actually carried on in tho Unlted Btatos, It {8 not n question of moro samplos, but "of bonn fido bales, such a8 are bought and sold every day in our cotton markets, For uslanco, the Now Or- lonns bales run: Middling fair, ordinary, good ordinary, middling, low mid dllug good ‘midd ing, fair, cliolea peoler, Tho Moblle grados arot Low mlddllniz, choico, good ordinary, good mid- dling, Tho tatervals hotweon tho- baies i tho lowor row ara fillad “P with the following ob- ccta: A barrol of choico flour from Burlington, t. (tho barrel itsolf being hnndsomely con- structod of Llnck walnut, lipopod with_onls, and rivotod with' coppor nails); a barrol of lard, fromj Caffard_Bros., of Balttmoro; o barrel of choico family flour, from the Oity Mills, Padueab, Ky.; o barol of thio Tolican fortilizer, from tho Now Orloans Banitary Tertilizer Companyj o huge lump of Rock anlt from Louisiana, & barrol of sugar from tho River Luko Plantation, Louiainna. Tho Intarvals in tho uppor tior of Dalen are filled out with cases of Californin eille in tho coccoon, floss nud spool, relioved by sheaves of Louisiana rico, Tho thole i5 festooned with raw cotton. Upon tho bales of cotton are two bales of hair moss from Louigiaun, and on those ngain two plows and sod-cuttors of I, F. Smith's patont. The apoex of the pyramid is formed by a bundle of nufinr—cnno crownod with hair moss and flanked by four American flnga. Tho gonoral offoct of the Ervrnmld, a8 I have alrondy stated, is disagrooable. It Jooks rude, unfinishod and clumey, Yot it embodics an idon that {o not to bo despised. It transplants our cotton lovees in miniaturs to tho shores of the 4 Danubo, But tho pyramid s notall, Near by, against tho wall, are_two more bnles from Mobilo, sud twvo bnles, middling and good middling, from In- gorsoll, of Alabama ; also a brlo of choico Taon- nessoc upland, from J. W, Jofforson & Co,, and & cnso of oxtraordinary cotton plants from the Ca- talpa plantation of I, 0. & J. Moorohead, Mis- elgaippi, boaldes two balen of wood-hair for mat- trossoy, from Theodore Wilking, New York. 1t will bo evident from tho abovo slrotel: that our displny in this dopartmont, if not clegant, is substantial, and the boat that we havo yoi sent oultt. 1 can only regrot tho absence of Soa Island cotton. THE SHAH. Xlowr *the King of XKings¥ Looks and Acts, Eurlrgcnn Correapondence of the New York World, Ao Shah is o vory oxtraordinary mun, o ia intalligent to a higli dogreo ; g it brave ; bo can Do as netivo ns a deor, and {4, kometimes, os cruol e & Modoc Indian ; but ho cau nlso bo us lan- guid and negligent as a fine Indy of Mayfair, and a8 kind, ghmmmufl, and gontlo a8 achild, With all this he is as sonsunl na tho fabled Grand Turk himself, and ono cannot aven hint at what Lias beon done Lo consplo himn for tho loss of {hab fomdlo socicty which ho suffered whon Le sont back hiy " threo favorito wives from Morcow: 'The Court of Dorlin is by no means tho most fustidious ono in Europo. Tivo years ago, or thoreabouts, tho stories- that used to bo curront liero * concorning what wont oit in the palaco, enpecially during the oe- cagionn! visits of the Princo of Walos, wero sim- ply ehocking, and “the worst of it was that the wholo truth ahout theso things was novor gonor~ ally knowit, B3ut wo are much mare moral now ; tho old Emporor has received warmings that malko him think of death; thio Bmpress Augusts, slways siucerely good, bns now much.more influonce over him than sho evor Lad hofore ; tho Urown Drince, since his lato illness, hos grown vm?' sorious, having many sorious things to thiuk of ; and, uitogother, n slato of oxtorual decorum, nt lenst, is keptup, But through alt this tho Shiali burst through,—in ways L cannot doscribo,—and the conscquenco was tlint srrangomouls were mado for gotting him away from Berlin much _ eooner than wns mb fist intended. He know all about it. DBleas yon, this “King of Kiugs" is romarkably woll kerved, and ho hus men with him, who, if anything, aro ovon keener in their porcoption than himself—but ho was glad to gob nwny. o wag thoronghly bored and disgusted with Berlin and the Germaus, aud:_he showed it plainly. Ilohas n passionnte ndmivation for Tundsome wopen, and his tasfo is good ; but ho has nu almont oquull?' presiounto diuliko of ugly woren, and ho Las the bad taste to whow this without resorve. An extromely awkward inci- dent thus occurred onthis first night ot the Im- orial Palnco at Berlin. A vory grand lady—n ndy of exalted rank—mngnificently drossed and blazing with jowaly, . was presonted to Lim, ~ Ho staved at ‘her for some mo- monts without moving & muscle of his im}nuasi\'n face, or acknawledging in anyavay hior saiute ; and thon he turned awey from " her with an indescribablo shrug ot his shoulders, and an oxpression of ineffable disgust upon his conn- tenance. Truo, tho Indy in question is not hand- somo; I grant you that; but what would become of us if wo all expressed our emotions as_froely o8 this Nasor-cd-deen vohtures to do? Bloady wbs hinve heen waged, and Empires lave boen losf Cor Joss offensus than this, ind I don't alto~ golhor disbeliovo tho story that tho present seri- ous llnoss of Lmporor Willinm is partly duo to tho msupprossed wruth which he feols— but dare mnot show—to this nlly and friend of bhis doar nophew iho Ozar. Tho + 8hah was rcceived at Berlin, as yon Luow, with gront parado ; but_ho was sont away with none at all, “Glad was Willinm to soo the Inst of him, nud glad way he to soo the last of Willinm, ‘I'ho Shoh 18 a vory hnndsome man. His pic- tures do not do him justice. T do not wonder at this, for Lisig onoof the faces over which tho owner woars a mesk, which ho removes at ploas- ure. When ho i bored, out of humor, and un- willing to pleaso, Jio nssumntes a passive resorvo thatwight be mistaken for stupidity. During Liix stay in Borlin, whonaver he appeared in pubs lic, ho woro this air of extroma apathy. Wheth- er at o roviow, at the theatre, or in convarsation, it was oll tho wame. Iho Prussians thought they could improas their guest wath an idon of their great military strongth, apd of their progress in all mod- orn idens. 1fo allowed them to seo that he thought very small beor indoed of them, Dut Lo mado o romark on his last night in Borlinthat showed how erronocous would bo tho iden that ho did not know all about Germany. * You are on- goged in o contliot with A religious organiza- tion," maid o to o cortain porsonage. “ Lot mo toll you that yon will get thio worst of It unloss you oxtorminato tho whole of them—loaving nat @yen & child, X havo {ried it aud I know.” “And his strango Llnck oycs blazed with n wicked firo a8 ho romembered how ho had sought to put down tho sect of the Babs in his own Empire ; and how to-day this soct, curiched by its own Dblood, was porhinps strobg enough to ‘wrest, his Klnfidum from Lis grasp, . All tho mombors of his suito are mon of manl beauty, but the Buah is tho noblest of thom all. Even tho habitual oxpression of his faco, tho face of u man whois satinted with o1l the sweols of power and of plensuro, althongh snd is still noble, - 1le ia 41 yoars old—he looks not moro than 93 or 44 ; but fl‘r twonty-five yeara ho hns beon the absoluto ruler of tho Porsinn nation, the “ Lord of Lifo,” and tho * King of Kings. Sineo he loft Telioran, his mothor, for whom ho* chorivhoil groat affection, and who was viriuall his Primo Miuistor for many years, has died, Ho recolvad tho nows of hor donth with porfect outward compoaure, but I loarned from his physi- olan, who i wholly in hiu confidonco, that his grief at Lier losu was violont, and that for somo Lours ho gave way, when in private, to a paasion of worrow, Bomeo of his personal hablts ara shockiug to our Westorn idens of pmlwlo!y. Lipt, thon, somo of our customs nre oqually uhon]ri\xg to Eastern nations, Yor instance, when tho Shnh, u\lnlufntn publio table, has nood of n pocket-handlorchiof, ho borrowa one from his inlstor at his side, uacs it, and throwa it under tho tablo, aking n cloan ond ugnin in tho swue way whon ocewnion arises. Lo Orlentals our custom of roplacing a handkorchiof in our poclob nftor “using it is tho eoxtroma of nastiness, Pho ordinary costumo of the Bhnh when ho goes about is a lony Dlack robe and n tall Lat, 1o has wisoly givon over wonrlng many jowoly, and contonts himselt with n siugla atrlig of poarls around hiauocls, worth £260,000, or somo_ trifle of thnt sort. It in to ho hoped that His Tighness will hava loarned to Lo aomo- what moro eireumspact In tho exprossion of hig emotion by tho time ho ronches Iinglawd, Othorwiso I tremblo to think what might happon when hio moeots the Queon. Vietorln 1s the best of sovorolgns—no ono will quostion that— Lut slio is 61 yearn old, and all hor bosuty has Jong eineo dopurtod from her. Tot ug hope for the bout. 'lie Bhal arrived nt Hpr on TFridny avonin) tho 19Lh) &t 6 o'olock, and he enjoycd imsolt thore more than at any othor spot in Furope. Io lovos hills and farists and water, and there ho Lud ol (bis i sbundauco, On flutunhy bo showod how ho hindl learned ono of tha (hico leurions which tyaditlon assigns to nil Dersinus. Mounting o horto ho st oft at full npeod noress the country, taking averything aw it camo, with ‘mrruct fonresunas.s nnd splendid horsomnnship. To wonra apeolreles, by tho way, and ho wora, thom ali through this mnd xid s if oy had been glued to his noso. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, Mennures for Ats | Complotion=eA Giimpuo ot Ats Kintory. Tha T,ondon News of tho laat mail containg an oditorinl account of tha origin, progrens, sud rosont coudition of tho movoment to finisl t, Paul's Onthodral, from which the following Paagraphs aro quolod s * Bt, Panl's Cothedral hes gono through many vicissitudos. Mr. Willism Longmay, of the Flnanco Committeo for its complotion, hag ust published o vory admirably ilusfrated istory of tho threo™ succossive cathedrnls dadicated to 8t. Paul which have stood on -the prosont sito. A singnlar fatality seoms to havo attouded tho building, During tho twolve conturies in which London has had a 8t. Paul’s, the ohurch hns boon flve limes destroyed ox nonrly dostroyed by fire. Of tho firat cathedral nothing {s known,” In the moventh contury a oathedral was built on the old sito of a I'agan tomplo, which, hiaving.atood for somo five contu= rios, was dostroyed by & fro which dovastated London in tho roign of Willam tho Conqueror. Tho socond Bt. Paul’s was bogun within s fowr yoars of tho destruction of tho first, Lut 200 youra nftorwards it was atill incomplete, In the Alrat yonr of Stophon's roign (1136) o firo swopb over London, nnd tho rising “cathodral was nourly dostroyod. In 1444 tho steeplo, which _was of wood covored with load wos fired by lightuing in: n greaf storm ‘on tha 1wt of Foebruary, and such damngo was dono that it was not complotoly ropaired for cightoon years. Inthe yunrlgfil the steoplo wad again sot on firo by lightning, and burned down, with the wholo roof. The roof 'waa rostorod, but tho stoople waa naver robullt. Fitful efforts at restoration wore mndo, liko thosa of lator times, and King Jamon, taking compas- sion on tho d’qunylnF fabrio, appointed n roynl commission to cousider what could bo'done to restoro_it, and Inigo Jomnes dosigned his ccle~ bratad Italion portico. 'Tho offort of that poriod 'was a noble one, and puts to tho blush the zoal of thoso moro prosporous times. In o fow yoars fhearly £00,000 wore raised, and but for the troubler-the building would Lave boon comploted 08 porhapa the moat curlous mixturs of siylos that London could show. #Mr, Longman thinks it fortunate that Inigo Joues was proveuted by the civil war from carry- Ing out his sohemes. - After tho restoration of Charles 15 tho worl was again takon {n hand, and Bir Christophor Wren was proparing plans for completing the bullding when the groat firo swopt it away, and tho prosont building was orected on the anciont eito. Tlie firat stono was 1aid in 1076, and the,last i 1710, but tho interior wns nover finished, ~ Dean Milman said that the windows, in his dny, were tho temporary ones which Wron lmd putin ¢ till others moro ‘suited to tho dignity of thy buiding could 'tako. theie placo.’ Tho effort*nt building seomed to bavo exhansted tho zeal of the public, and for 150 years Beareely nn{thlnghnu beon done. Tho greattompla wag alinost uscloss, It scemod abuolutely nog- locted and forgotten, excopt us o placo ot buriat for great soldiors nud sailors, or ns a placo of o National thvmlmgivhxfi‘ Lyon the restoration of Bir' James Thornhill’s paintings'in the domo waa only undertaken boenuso tie pluster was falling in flakes or hanging loose on the walls; ond Dean Milan saya that tho boldor thought of altompting to_ornament tho interior- rono ufterwardy with tho detormination to uso tho spaco under tho domo for public gorvico. It was tho thought of uso which iuspired the thought of beauty. *“Tho uncs to which tho cathedral lins beon vat aro among tho most’ curious pointy in ita iistory, An odd glimpeo of auciont customs ia givon by Dugdalo, In 1275 Sir William lo Band gavo ayearly buck ‘and doe for twontv-two ucres of land, and from that time till tho dnys of Queen Elizaboth tho gift was recoived Dy the canou, clad in their sncred vestmonts, and wag borno in procossion round tho building. T'hero nre rome hints 1 litornturs: of- the ous- toms of old St. Paul's. Bon Jonson describes Boabdil as a Paul's mau; and whon Falstal® asks ¢ Where's Buvdolph 2 and tho pago' replies that hiois gono to buya hiorss in mithiiold, Tulatnff answers, ¢ I bought him in $t. Paul's. The middle nisle was called Paul's Walk, and wan the common meeting Plncu of tho citizons, the placa whero wits and gallants and news- mongors nssombled, Bishop Lnrlo, in hia Microcosmography, doscribos it nw tho * land's opitomo, the lesger islo of Grent Britain, the noise in_which islike that of beos, & strango lumming or buzz mixed of walking, tonguon, aud feet. The general mint of all famos lic; ull mventions nro omptied hore, and not a fow pockets.” Osborn, wrillug of tho reigh of Jnmes, says it wns tho fashion of thoso’ timns, and continued Lill his own, for the priveipal gons’ try, Lords, Commons, and nien of il professions to moot in 8b. Panl’s Cethedral by 11 and walk in the middloe nislo till 12, and aftor dinner from 3 to6, during which time some discoursed of business, othors of nowa, Qntside, tho cloise ters wero lot to trunkmalers, houses wora Dbuilt against tho walls, and in one placo n baker had - excavated an oven in oue of the buttrosses, whero ho baked his bread and pies. Ttope-dancing feats from tlio hattlomonts wor common, and thore I o logend of n Loreo was snid to have climed the stecplo. ; +hoso descorations wero porhap the tatural consoquenco of tho cathedral boing thrown open to the people inf undevout timos. ~The roaction from thoso times brought general exclusion. Tho ugly wall and hugo railing which lave so Jong givon tho wost front its desolate appoar- anco will, in tho coming improvements, bo ro- moved, Tho front_will onco moro be open to tho public, just as its services havo been thrown opon by holding them boneath the dome.” = . : Lifo nt Vassare " Corresponderice of the New York Herald, At 6 o'clock in_{bo'morning ton strokes npon ono of tho eloctrio bolls inform. tho pupils that day his_bogun for thom. At n quartor past7 (formorly at o quarter Lo 7) overy pupil is oxe gocted fo bo ocenpying hor seat ot one of the numerousy tables with which tho dining-room ahounds, _Convarsation is permitied during menls, and half en hour is devoted to breakfnst. During any timo withiu that linlf hour o student may withdraw on being excused by tho lady pro~ siding At that table. Dinner is sorved at 1. o'clock and tea at 0. It might Dbe mentionod in passing that o groat deal of diflenity was oxporionced in procuring @ thoroughly efficiont stewaxd, but that bleasing seems now to have been attainod, Yhe menlt aro provided in'much the same way as_thoo -of aliotel, and tho first improssion o blindfolded visitor might have, whoto oycs woro unbaudaged in the diniug-room or kitclien, would probably Do that ho was in & now, firat-clusa watoring- lace hotel. Norniug meom in the chapol ful- ow breakfnst, and thon occurs tho ‘silent timo " of twonty minutes, whon cach young Iady is In hier room aloue, and no one through- out tho vast building {s pormitted toinfringo ups on any onoelso. ltocrontion ia the rijo until 9, when study and recitation bogin, divided into poriods of forty minutos cach. Nenrly an hour is devoted to tho midday dinnor; half an hour is bestowed on ten. Thon follow even-~ ing prayer, conductod by Prof, Raymond or one of tho othor professors ; hymna ave ‘sung from tho Plymouth Collaction ; tho Bihlo is read,- and nanothor of thoxo sacrad intorvals known ns * si- lont time" is obsorved, Atabout & quartor to 10 the alectric-mngmotic Dol indicaten that bod- timo is nonr, and at 10 Vassar puts on ils gentle mght-dress and lays ito tived hend upon its pil- low. Baturdny and Sunday own an arrangement poculiny to~ thomsolves. A * groat denl of freodom_ iy wllowed to the pu- yllu on _ Frida; evening and aur- ng tho whole _of Saturday, alter silont timo. “Ilioy may rend, visit, work, or play, or, in shoxt, do what {hoy choose—restrained “only Ly the sonoral ralos of the Colloge. Bunday, of coursa, 18 dovoted to religious dutios. Awn rule, the dormitories are so avrangoed thal their sleoping~ roon ara in connoction with one parlor used ny o study by the occupants, Someo of theso dormi- tories contain binglo and somo doublo beds, but thoro iy full and free ventilation in all, The roonus ave, of courso, carpoted and furnishod ub tho oxponso of tho Collogo, and a matron is np- poiutod to koop them in order; Lut tho studenty aro nllowed considerablo liberty in ornamunting them according the bont of individual Lastos. ——— Valuc of an Gplum Liconsae From the Honolult Guzelte, June 4. Tho snlo of opium Heonkon on Balurday Inat drow a crowd to tho auction raom of Mr. Bur- tow, Aflor dinpoding of somo lomnes of real ostate, ono opium liconso was-pmt up, stacting ut 43,000, aud rupidly ndvancod to %12,000, whieh figuro it wan Inockad down o Loongol, tho snme party who had it Just yoar, 'Tho wee~ ond licenso was [hen offeraid, wliich was startod 2t #5,000, and advanced to §16,000, at which fig- wo it was knocked down to Abawan, making ©28,000 Lo bo paid for tho priviloge of dragging © Ltho peoplo of &lmmlulu with opium for ono year. It is undorstood that both lcensoa® wero purs ohnsod by n ring, compoged of & number of Chineso, who wers doterminod to gontrol the anlo of opiwm, 1t shows what thio profits musl Lo in thiy trude. . named Marocco, the property of & vintucr, which ¢ *