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an on 4 paaeree se} High Among the Smart Favorites FAMOUS designer of women’s A clothes told me not long ago that any woman can be smart- ly attired for every occasion if she Owns but two gowns, a jersey and a brocaded chiffon. “But the jersey must be distinctive and the last word in chic," he warned, “and the chiffon must have a sumptuous and an indi- viduality which sets it apart from other afternoon and evening gowns it will meet.” Certainly nothing could be more sumptuous than the brocaded chiffons of the present mode. No Oriental potentate ever swathed his royal person in fabric richer or more mag- nificent. By the way, isn’t !t rurprising how henna manages to hold its own? It was considered rather a novelty when it first became popular several years ago, but today it is as well liked as ever, and some of the newest and smartest jerseys are henna. ~ Overblouses are daintily decorated with beading embroidery in very ef- fective patterns in crepe de chine. Blouses with becoming round or bateau neck lines, or little collars ¥ with short or very long sleeves, with close-fitting hip bands or perfectly staight in their silhouette, eee To make a spool holder, take a Plain piece of board 6 inches square, drive in 16 headless 1-inch nails 114 inches apart, begin % inch from edge -—that will leave the same margin around the 4 sides. You can then have 16-spools of thread on those nails right handy on your machine. eee Before sewing lace on a round center piece; roll the edge to be sewed on very tight (cro; se of the lace) and tie with a piece of string around the top edge. Dip in water and dry. When dry, remove string i the the lace will be a perfect circle, mak- ing it very easy to sew on and at the same time it will have shrunk. AND BANDED WITH FOR @unenced : SURE ee Anew idea in jerseys 1s the use of pinch tucks which have a way of adding much chick at small cost. I have seen several frocks in clusters of pinch tucks extending from shoul- der to hem, front and back. An in- triguing little model in one of the ex- clusive shops fs tucked in blocks, It 4s a delightful shade of brown, known @s, Mandalay, and has an interesting white collar and cuff set in the new double style. Rows of buttons at the side pro- vide a touch of the unusual, and the whole {s a frock which will give no end of service for the business girl. Among ths new jerseys one no- tices zinc, chestnut, castor desert. There are blues, but no one seems to be wearing blue at the mo- ment, Gray {s charming and a new beige 1s adorable. Length is a con- sideration, In Paris -dresse: are erowing shorter. Many of them, especially daytime frocks, are ten inches and more from the floor, and even dinner gowns are nearly ten inches in some instances. The tube silhouette continued to rule, but it does so by clever manipulation of line which gives variety and enables each woman to choose a tube which best sults her figure, For those who can wear it, an eve- ning or tea gown of copper brocaded chiffon with kolinsky fur at its flar- ing lower edge is ultimate distinc- tion. Sleeveless and with a deep Vat the back, it proves hand- Some attire for formal wear. By the way, no matter what the decolletage may be at the front, gowns for formal Wear are very low at the back. There {s a new brocaded chiffon this year made from artificial silk, which literally outshines the real. There isalustre and beauty of color- ing_that makes this new material very striking. Another member of the family is called brokader and is used for tea gowns and the most lux- urious of negligees, What is called a tunic blouse is a rather new gar- ment In the world of fashion and shows a decided Chinese influence. It frequently extends to the knees and one of its most stunning appearances is made in brocaded chiffon over a plain satin or velvet skirt; black or dark brown, if you value your repu- and HENNA AND ie WITH A BROWN tation for good taste. This combina- tion idea points the way to wonderful opportunities. Chiffon or georgette, brocaded in royal blue on black, forms the outer portion of a stately gown which opens at the front to dis- close under slip of black satin back crepe. The same idea is charmingly carried out in gold brocade with plain gold as a skirt and camisole. CORZ LF COMIBINED GROWN SRARBT OF FPLANIINGO © Underwood Again the brocade; this time in tones ef mulberry and taupe, is used through the center of a sand-colored crepe for a delightful little luncheon frock. And there are any number of costume blouses which used brocaded chiffon, often in tan or gold with a touch of Chinese red, for wear with any one of the smart brown kasha or velour suits, Little Touches That Spell Jersey and Brocaded Chiffon Rank HE serfous-minded and ambi- ye tious girl is seldom, if ever, satisfied with the make-shift, transitory position. She wants a Place with a future; work in which she is interested and which she feels leads to something worth while. The girl in college who finds her- self looking for a “man-sized” job, very frequently turns her attention to chemistry. She knows that this is & profession whose importance can not be overestimated, and that the world is coming every day to realize more and more the worth of work of this sort. The woman chemist finds herself in a field which calls many of the finest intellects. She is every- where respected and admired, and the road to fame Hes before her, There has been only one Madame Curie, to be sure, but there are a host of other women who have made good in this work, and to whom the world owes much. Training First. It is estimated that there are 1,000 women chemists in the United States, many of whom are engaged in indus- trial work in which they invariably Nothing Better Than Doughnuts With Coffee AN you think of anything that tastes quite as good as acrisp, freshly fried cruller or dough- nut, served with a fragrant cup of hot coffee? Be sure they are crooked without a suspicion of grease re- maining and rolled while hot in powdered sugar, seasoned with a little grated hutmeg or ground cinnamon, according to individual preference. Remember in cooking these tempting fried cakes, that the fat should be heated, so that it will brown a small piece of bread in one minute; for uncooked mixtures must be cooked more slowly than croquettes or oysters. If they are cooked too quick- ly, the very hot fat will cause a crust to form, before they have risen properly and the expanding gases will burst through the crust, causing the cakes “to soak fat,” Crullers and doughnuts must not be made too rich with shortening and they should be slipped directly into the hot fat, when at the proper tem- perature; then as they will rise im- mediately to the surface, they may readily be removed when cooked with @ perforated skimmer. Do not puncture with a fork and it will not be necessary to turn the cakes, as when they are done on one side, the heavier weight of the un- cooked dough on the top. will cause them to turn over without assistance, Have ready some crumpled brown paper ona large dish and lay the cakes, as @ooked, on this, to remove every particle of the superfluous grease that may cling to them. Sour Milk Doughnuts. Mix together four and a half cup- fuls of bread flour, one and a half teaspoonfuls of ‘salt, one teaspoon- ful of baking soda, one small cupful of sugar and a quarter of a teaspoon- ful each of ground mace and grated nutmeg. Beat one egg lUchtly, blend with one cupful of very rich sour milk and beat the liquid into the dry ingredients Toss out on a floured board, knead lightly and roll out to a quarter of an inch in thickness. Cut with a doughnut cutter and fry in deep, hot fat, according to the direc- tions given above. Southern Crallers, Cream together four tablespoonfuls each of butter and sugar and add three lightly-beaten eggs, half a tea- Spoonful of grated nutmeg and suffi- cient flour, sifted with one teaspoon- ful of baking powder and a quarter of a teasoopnful of salt to make a dough that can be handled. Roll out a quar- ter of an inch thick and cut in pieces three and a half inches long by two inches wide. Cut two slits in each piece and give each one a twist, Fry in deep hot fat and drain on brown paper. Roll while warm in pow- dered sugar, seasoned with powdered mace. DRESS HAT IT 19 nz0sT SECOMING Oumdeweoos Women Chemists Hold Man-Sized: Jobs A Thoroughly Frained Mind and Health Above Among the Requirements for the Woman See, aeetre ome toe. POP eee onesesaene the Average Are Specialist in Chemistry, make good. They have demonstrated ties are more or icss routine, - The their ability and the small numberin woman chemist in hospitals, both the field need not in any way deter private and public, will be called up- the girl who wishes to make it her-on to make blood analysis for quan- life work, But she should first real- titiye determination of sugar, total ize that its something which requires nitrogen, uric acid, etc. There will # thorough and rigorous training. No also be much microscopic work, bac- half-way effort; no lackadaisical in- terlology, the making of vaccines and terest is to be tolerated hére. It must sera, examination of spinal fluid, cul- be a whole-hearted ambition and love tures, etc, All intensely interesting, for the work to obtain any degree of and all vital to lfe.. Buetcse: A college training, or its The bactertologist requires a train. equivalent !s esential, not alone for ing approximating that of ths chem- the knowledge which this brings, but ist, and in many lines their work also because only a trained mind caD overlaps. Other fields which are to hope to make good along these lines. be considered in thinking of taking In a word, the profession of chem- up this profession are clinical path- istry is not a thing to be undertaken jog, pharmacology, research chem- without consideration; it is real and istry, a laboratory of one’s own, ce- splendid work, and it requires the ramic assistant, metallurgical chem- best that one has to give. ist and a number of other equally Many Branches of Wors. &wesome, the mere names of which Women chemists employed in in- seem enough to frighten the ordinary dustrial plants are doing research Person. and experimental work in every iine oe United States Government em- from metals to chocolate. Something ee ppeaeae, bed bein baer of the. versatility required by the Thicms Dositions, thar ty girl who enters this fleld is shown by Toca Me open to bot eee tee Bee ee eemenean, ChRUDLEE EOE, secu suenbith talon ledioaie’ Tae Stoel or taken tpay yewomen in’ Cham: aise chemists receive in some Na E CBDR BATE Ae Ony SADLER Ea eatab sietelas tat abo aiceacane or tappings at the rate of one every highest salary received by a eee 45 or 20 maindtakcaine!in #1 elation jee or yl aaa enperest eee $7,000. up standard samples of steel to de- None of which figures are exact, but tebine te. Dexcentage of‘ wulphtinyy Situcha aura Ngieia ge ian: ! phosphorous, manganese, carbon,’ a nickel, chrome and pig iron contained Qualifications Are High, in the steel, For each element a dif- A well-known psychologist gives erent process is used.” There is prac- several qualifications as necessary QR tically no manufactured product tor the girl who wishes to become a which does»not require a chqmist, so chemit. Among them are: “The abil- that the opportunities are great, al- ty to work independently without though in some plants the work supervision,” “physical health and might not be suited to a woman. endurance beyond the average,” “a This is {lustrated by the remark of xeon enjoyment in working with de- the chief chemist of a firm manufac- tails” and “ability to work without turing alkall, that women could*not emotional interference.” 50 out into the plant and make inves- positions are obtained very fre- tigations as a man could, and there- quently through one’s college, and a fore thelr usefulness was limited. personal application is always an ex- Many other firms employ their chem- celicnt methods. For government or ists in dual capacities where a wom- stato positidns a civil service exam- an would not fit in; and in still oth- ination is necessary. ers the material to be analyzed must a bo gathered from the dirt of the yionna, the capital city of rehabil- plants, which would be most distaste- trated Austria, has practically no ful to the average wom slum section; has very little dirt and Hospital Technic for a city, and with one- Analytical h of New York’s population is d out over four times the area ew York ns, chemists are usually four termed technicians when employed in sp hospital laboratories where their du- of N