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Sy Me Der ie avors Smart Magnificence Velvet Is Easily the Season’s Favorite Material for Both Wraps and Gowns—Draped Lines Give Way Before Increasing BLUE VELVET MIOVEN-AGE WIODEL WITH SILVER BROCADE G/RDLE (Courrtt Puitaperrnia Recorp.) Lovely Models for Evening Wear Show Sumptuous ‘Trimming of Metal Cloth, Crystal and Beads vogue is when he Mons ravishing past in the Ity and Even those their frien s to the have no tivel nblest like Worth his approval to even fabric, its tablished. fc whose chi terial {s exot > sinud with collared in nart sophistica same Cocoanut ft M ho some in the s for rtists inimitable are known by cided opinions and who will not distinc- ) hesttancy in their attire nt nothing than a cape P been with us for so long 5q Candy Tastes opening nights at the opera, where it is destined to drop from gleaming shoulders across which lle straps of diamonds. There is nothing more regal tt a cape of this sort for Ma women do not find a capo pleasin for ening treet wear, especially in Winter. But there is no questioning its charm for And er to such heights of clegance as it does this season. Velvet is quite gowns as for wraps. signed fi of Ame 's smartest matrons ph blue velvet tand a bodice de- of the Moyen age, a most youthful the being treated in an inter- sting manner, which makes Impos- sible that taut look so often seen in the modes of those who copy rather than create It features the square which {is such a relief after deluge f bateau neck lines wh evening it never rose as voguish for creation de- on y is of with a cir veloped on the lin This is affair, de seam neck line are neck when correctly employed is in- triguing. The abbreviated sleeves are also attractive when contrasted with an infinite number of bare arms, and the artistically arranged girdle of silver brocade adds just that touch of the {nsouciant which is destrable. A Favorite Color, There {s something so fascinating about sapphire blue yelvet, don’t you think? In satin this shade is almost commonplace and even common, but in velvet it becomes queenly. A wom- an famous on two continents for her exquisite taste in gowns favors this stunning color, touched with silver in a number of her costumes. Her colffure always marvelously done, is a crown of softest white, and it is im- possible to vision a moro distingue personage. At Deauville last Sum- mer it {s said that she was the center of attraction, while the younger set looked enviously on and copied her charming manner of walking and her gracious poise, Kindred shades of blue in both rel- vet and satin pe are shown in handsome dinner gowns whose sur- face is patterned in a beaded design combined with silver threads. Any- thing to be sumptuou- is seemingly from the teaspoonful of nilia 1 into a bi eut in ltered pan squares. Dip h in melted sweet ¢ Freneh two half a colate. tterscoteh, of granulated cupful each of tter cupfuls ugar, aple one tablespoonful rier of a cup o the crack 1ove from the ul of va- rth of a tea into Pour Best When It’s Made at Hone half a Pla cupful of plnoapple juice, 6 over the fire in a double boiler when it bol of selatine that bas been soaked for 15 minutes in water to cover. Cook for 20 minutes, then stir in one cupful of finely shredded dates and half a cup- ful of sliced, blanched almonds, Mix well and pour into a shallow pan, d with a mixture of powdered sugar and cornstarch, Let stand for 12 hours, then cut in squ and roll in powdered sugar, add one ou dus: alt over coals before This will deaden d horn combs last bbed with ¢ Popularity of Bouffant Effects. fashion's most unbending mandate. And beads, in many instances, ap- pear to accomplish this to a greater extent than anything else. At a re- “cent fashionable dinner the hostess wore a gown of citron yellow crepe, with a bouffant skirt and much em- broidery done in crystal beads. Bouffant effects, which have been steadily coming to the foré, seem now to be firmly established, There is still a decided difference of opinion among artists, and poor femininity is torn between the sinuous, draped gown, which {is the last word in so- phistication; and the snugly fitting bodice with its debonair bouffant lines, which may be obtained by a cir- cular theme | About the Overskirt. One of the most interesting gowns WORTH CAPE OF BLACK Photos by trak mit - I have seen in a long time is a Lan- vin model, which made use of circu- ing in such 4 delightful man- s was the strongest feature of the overskirt and wag thoroughly in keeping with the clever color note obtained by green and violet ribbons. Who but Lanvin would have thought of this? And who but this versatile artist would have achieved these sleevés with their quaint puffs at the elbows and their trimming to the wrist? ‘ It fs such an intriguing thought to start out to an affair of importance and know that one will have the only gown of its sort in the room. There is nothing more maddening than to lose one’s heart to a frock, only to have its most alluring features imi- tated at every hand, VELVET FOI FUR, TRIWINANG Courtesy of Geng LET YOUR CLOTHES EXPRESS PERSONALTY LIKE to look at Mrs. J.'s outfit. [ = always appears to be well dressed, and yet she doesn’: seem \o have many clothes.” Thus spoke a woman at a recent gathering of women. If Mrs. J. could have told her secret without sceming too ego- tistical she would have revealed some interesting facts which would have proved a source of help to many of her hearers. In the first place the woman in question always alms to introduce in her costumes a color to mate hair or her eyes, or both. This idea is especially good for the woman who has no claim to beauty; the use of the matching color tends to give the wearer beauty. _ Another important point which Mrs, J. always observes, is to to one or two colors. In this way one's complete outfit is sure to be food taste, To reach success in dressing it 1 necessary for a woman to make close study of her figure, ners and her habits before she c strike the proper notes. It is a m take to be in a hurry to accept the latest style just ner her ma to be cons smart and well informed about the various changes of fashion. It is much better to cling to lines that bring out your best, and that fairly speak for you.’ The woman with a stately stature would look ridiculous in a frilly frock, whereas the petite girl, who is full of action and coy ways, should ayold the severely plain lines. A general rule to remember fs that a touch of white or flesh color is needed near the face. Dark colors near the complexion are not be- coming to the majority of women. ‘The white or pink note may be intro- duced as a collar or ag a@ little fold inside the neck line, The latter has a very softening effect, YOUR SCISSORS A KIT. CHEN LABOR-SAVER. Jsg scissors to— Shred lettuce, . Shred parsley. 3. Shred green peppers, Clip out undesirable ccns or cabbage, raisins, cut MAKE parts of Cut meats, citron, Cut left oats LANVIN CREATES THIS QOAUNT LITTLE FROCK. WITH ITS PUFFS ON THE SLEEVE-AND ITS CIRCULAR PLEATINGS. GREEN VELVET AND VIOLEZ RIBBONS ARE A TRULY FRENCH ADDITION Can You Create Your Own Parchment Lampshades With Little Trouble and No Great Expense is very costly and difficult to handle besides, it is better for the inexperienced person to use a Ss‘ real parchment or vellum heavy water-color paper instead, Fasten a sheet of this paper to a drawing board with thumb tacks. Pour into a saucer equal parts of turpentine and raw linseed oil, and apply it to the entire surface of the paper with a smooth wad of linen, using light rotary movements. Apply first to one one side of the paper and then the other, until cach side has had three coats, then hang it up to dry. If the paper has absorbed all the oil and still looks “papery” after 24 hours, repeat the process. The sur- face should appear mottled, with 1r- regular spots. It you are going to make an un- decorated shade, the color ts rubbed in next by the same method used in using the oil. Paints are then squeezed out on a pallette plate or plece of glass and mixed with a very little turpentine or left as they come from the tube, according to their con- sistency. By mottling several colors over a surface many charming effects may be produced. This is done by ‘pouncing’ them with a linen pad. Tho surface also can be shaded from dark to light if desired, starting at the bottom with a full-strength color and diluting it gradually with tur- penting as the work progresses to- ward the top. “When working in color the paper should be held before a light at intervals, in order to make certain 7. Cut potatoes, vegetables. 8. Cut Angelica for garnishing cakes and desserts. Advantages of the scissors method: 1, Easily cleaned. 2. Saves washing bowl, chopping knife or chopper. 3. Very desirable for small quan- titles of food. 4. Can regulate shape and size of material to be cut. ot one must wash and wipe after use. course, carefully that an even tone is being obtained. Watch the Color, The paper should be fastened, when the paint is dry, to the board with the other side up and the wrong side treated in the same manner, It will often be found desirable to repeat the color used for the outside of the shade, in order to strengthen the effect when the light is shining through it, since all colors appear paler when illuminated, but where fairly light tones are used for the right side, orange or rose will often prove most effective for the lning, since they give a warm glow when the light is turned on. Discretion must be used when deciding this question, however, for a blue shade lined with yellow or orange will ap- pear green when ligthed, and simi- larly blue Hned with rose will take ona lavender or purple tone, When both sides of the paper are dry, the outline of the shade should be drawn upon it, preparatory to cut- ting out. For this a pattern will be needed, Remove the water-color pa- per from the board and draw the pat- tern on heavy wrapping paper, fast- ening it securely to the board and driving a slender brad or heavy pin upright into the center. Tie a string sufficient times around the brad to prevent slipping. Now, resting the point of the pencil on the paper in a true upright position, swing it around in a wide circle, keeping the string taut. Next, unwind the string from the brad and lengthen it enough so that the distance from the first line to the point where the pencil now touches the paper is equal to the height desired for the shade, and draw a second circle. Cut out and overlap the ends until the shade is the correct size, and then trim off one end, allowing for a half-inch lap. The greater the distance of the pen- cil from the center, the larger the circles described, and the stralg will be the sides of the shade: “Another andy somewhat aster method is to buy a wire frame of the right size and shape and peint the top and bottom rings of the frame and one upright with black paint. Roll the frame on the wrapping pa- ber until the upright registers a sec- ond time. The form thus outlined can then be cut out and used as a pat- tern, not forgetting, of course, to add the half-inch lap at the end. After this is done, remove the uprights by cutting them in the middle and bend- ing gently from side to side until the soldering gives at the point where they join the circle, the top and bot- tom circles being all that are needed on which to mount the shade. Decorating the Shade. When parchment shades are to be decorated, the paper is olled and dried, and the pattern of both shado and design must be drawn in. The design is then painted before rubbing in the background, because the lat- ter must not extend under the deco- ration for fear of mu¢dying the col- ors. This restriction does not apply when the background {s cream, pale sray, or a very delicate tan. When dry apply the background with a wad as before, working up as closo -8 possible to i*e design, and then fill- ing in with a brush, The lining color should be applied with a wad in the same manner, taking care that the color does not run over the design, as this, too, will muddy the colors when the shade fs lghted. As a final coat or finish, clear shel- Jac is used on both sides, thinned uf and half with denatured alcohol. As many as six or eight coats of this may be applied with good results, the shellac to be rubbed on as the ofl and turpentine were. For the lacquered effect use heavier coats of shellac, rubbing down with powdered rotten- stone and linseed oil between coats. ‘After cutting out the shades from the pattern, Jap the ends and fasten with tiny, round-headed, br: fast- eners, gluing the spaces between. * Then sew the shado to the top and bottom wires with heavy cotton thread, binding these edges with fiat. gold braid or harmonizing silk braid as a finish