Subscribers enjoy higher page view limit, downloads, and exclusive features.
ALL IN FAVOR. OF THE SHORT COAT? The ‘‘Ayes’’ Are Man} And Fervent 7 hs wo distinct types of the short coat. One is slight- 1 z sa rule Is worn merest un hint c fits rath They may ter has the a band the of fur or prising as it sound apparenti as the fo be admitted th at to tell th: examination. It's really ar le it? The furriers are will to spend any amount of money and grow old be- fore their t » the endeavor to make furs as and softly plia- ble as a fabric. And the fur-fabric manufacturers He awake nights and call upon all their most.expert de- signers to make their materials as much like fur as possible. both cases they are accompl wonders. You will see the short coat, too, which has been developed in velvet and some of the sumptuous fabrics such as marvella and fashir: >, There is, of course, no reason why they shouldn't be of whatever material one chooses, since many women are hay. ing them made according to their personal des: You will meet these jaunty coats with their undeniable chic and theiz dlainly Parisian air on the women who haye come from Paris or on those girls—usually tall and stately creatures—who in some unknown manner always manage to appear in the latest thing out. No Cumbersome Weight. The only fault which can be found with them is their apparent lack of warmth about the lower portion of one’s anatomy on a frigid day, But to balance this is the comfort in walking with no cumbersome weight tugging at the ankles. And after «ll whoever considered. warmth where style was concerned? Certainly they will not be smart for evening wear, but this they were never intended to be. I was discussing these Jequette blouses—as he termed them—the other day with a prominent couturier. You kaow they are known under ya- rious names: the Balkan, the Rus- sian, the Jaquette, or merely “those adorable short Jackets.” He telis me that they are invariably one of three colors; black, which may per- haps be said to lead; beige, which is as smartly distinctive here as it is everywhere else in the realm of fash- ion; and white, so well liked this season and especially popular in these models with the debutantes and the young matrons. Regal Ermine. In bis interesting workrooms a charming bride-to-be was being fitted in a ravishing affair of regal ermine. It was a box model, hanging straight from the shoulders, and was 30 inches long. She confided that it is to be a part of her trouseau and that she will wear it principally with a wrapped gown of black velvet, whose side panel is faced with ermine. Since she expects to spend a part of her honeymoon at one of the Winter mountain resorts, she was also con- sidering a sports costume of white caracul which consisted of coat, knickers and the most fascinating tam o’ shanter. Some of the handsomest short coats which I have seen are of mole, either alone or combined with Hud- the la with q s much favor it must times ap lose fon geal, which is with velvet, very which ts bb: smart even sm is easily awar in whatever color or ne finds it. And the often than not follow this type of fur, together with broad- tall, krimmer and baby lamb. Acoat of cloth broadtail, or perhaps one should say, broad’ oth, with a collar and cuffs of platinum fox, and band of this same popular peltry at the bottom, is a great many women's idea of ultimate smartn Shaw! Collars. The favorite collar ed to caracul whatever 5 ° fabrics more ati on the short {sa sort of elongated shaw! with one end fastening over the other and continuing to the low- er edge, where it ends in a decorative buckle or clasp. And on these accessories 8 chapter might be writtea in themselves. It ts 0 easy to forget that reserve which inevitably spells distinction, and adopt a garish imitation-yowst stud- ded affair, which is a jarring note in the entire costume. Some of the newest coat buckles are of antique coat model, silver or gold with an attractive metal tassel, which is usually rather long. And there is nothing more graceful than a clasp of twisted braid with a fringe of the cords coming well down to the bottom of the frock. I saw a short blouse coat of + brown caracul recently with one of these corded clasps and tassels in a TOR THE TEA OF THE CONCERT OR LECTURE, TRE CONTFORT OF THE SHORT FOR COAT LS UNSURPASSED darker tone. It was ned with brown peau de cygne, except the band, which showed a lining of gold and blue brocade, which was cx- tremely effective. I suspect that a Jength of the new metal ribbon might be ricely used for this purpose, and, since it gives the inside of one’s coat & particularly charming appearance, you may like to try it yourself. Few Brown Models, I am surprised that one does not See more of the short coats in brown, since this color is so popular. Still, beige to a certain takes its lace and is invitingly worn, over the brown skirt. One young woman with an individual mind and a flair for style achieved distinction by turning the mode entirely upside cown and having a skirt of beige caracul topped with a Balkan blouse of gerona in the same tone. She may have borrowed the idea from a famous actress who wears a extent Every Housekeeper Has Her Pet Economies BE other thing. however, to find hi nice heavy white looked quite travaganc to say “We just heavy wash I called on a girl making some- t was my disms ipping into a oes h towel. It eh lot! also to have more kish towels than we'll need in ten years, more or of one of while. I can of these large towels and washe in a towel I can get-I the plain white t After e of machine about an the edges. 7 embroidery eighth of an inch from ‘Then I take about a No. twist or crochet twist. mercerized, e ored and buttonhole the edges with a sin- gle crochet stitch. Any color you wish can be used,” went on this in- ventive little lady, “and it isn’t a bad idea to machine-stitch the es of th s with a color, if you have it, of se thread that will match the edge to be heted. This col- line makes a more definite to by than the white 2gh I am often obliged mri Fulde stitching, the to use the “Some Ir tial | in the sarae color as I make the edge I found the yellow and Dutch blue embroidered cloths were the prettiest. Upon some y put little fancy floral or ma- © designs, some in French knots and some in cross-stitch.” “And ere is another economies. Don't the linen in- dustry know «bout it, but I never buy a tea tovrel! When I can I get nice large flour sacus, but so many ork of my pet mean millers are using paper sacks these days that the cloth bags scarce. are However, I can procure sugar sacks from my grocer, large Usually be charges me a very little for them, between five and ten cents. Opened up, thoroughly boiled, nicely ironed and neatly hemmed they make wonderfully efficient towels. They are large, soft and practically lintless. I’d take one in preference to a linen towel any time, and especially for glasses and silver. After two or three washings the tex- ture becomes ‘close, and I find that if I put a bit of Dutch blue cross- stitching on one end the towel takes on a really attractive appearance. Don’t make the mistake of cutting the towel in two; the larger the bet- ter, «epless, of course, the sugar bag happens to be one of exceptionally large size.” ones. Protos Copyright bv umdarncod stunning costume of a black caracul ombroidered in vivid colorings at the mind and have a discarded fur gar- skirt and a cinder gray fashion hips, throat and wide sleeves. And ment of any sort, you may utilize it blouse coat, with the latter daringly {f you are of an economical turn of in somewhat the same manner, This Attractive Sweater of White Iceland Floss Comes From England and just love to make sweat- ers. Directions for making an attractive sweater of whi land floss are given below. Materlals—Three-quarters pound wool, one pair of No. § or 9 needle: a medium crochet hook. Measurements—Length from shoul- der 20 inches; ‘width across from side to side, 17 inches; length of sleeve, 16% inches. Tension—Six stitches to the inch. Begin at the back just above the fancy pattern. Cast on 101 stitches and knit tn stocking stitch for 11%4 inches. Now begin the pattern at the neck, keeping the 35 stitches tn stocking- stitch at each side, anc working in the open pattern for 31 stitches in the center. Begin after a purl row. 1st row—Knit all along. 24 row—Purl 35, knit 31, purl 35. Repeat these two rows twice. 7th row—Kait 38, * thread forward knit 2 together. _ Repeat 12 times from * and finish with knit 37 8th row—Purl 35, knit 3, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat 12 times from * and finisn with knit 2, purl 35. Repeat these two rows three times. 15th row—knit 38, * thread for- ward, knit 2 together. Repeat from * three times, knit 10, ** thread for- ward, knit 2 together. Repeat from ** three times, knit 97. 16th row—Purl 35, knit 3, * thread forward, knit 2 togemer. Rep from * three times. Knit 10, thread forward, knit 2 together. Re- peat from ** three times, knit 2, purl S many people are knitting now Ice- oe 35. Repeat the last two revs once. 19th row—Knit 34, * thread for- ward, knit 2 together. Repeat from * three times, knit 2. Cast off 5 loosely for the back neck. Put the first 48 stitches on a spare needle and knit across the Inst 48 for the left side of front. Knit 3, * thread forward, knit 2 together. - Repeat from * three times, knit 37. Now continue to knit on the last 48 stitches. 2d row of left side—Purl 35, knit 4, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from * three times, knit 2. 3d row—Knit 3, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from * three times, knit 37. 4th row like the 2d—Repeat the last two rows 11 times. 27th row—Knit in the open pattern as before, then instead of knitting the last 37, knit 2 and knit twice into the next stitch, then knit to tlfe end. 28th row—Like the 2d, but puri 36 instead of 35. Now knit 12 more rows without in crease. 41st row—Like the 27th, that is, in- creasing after you have knitted two stitehes after the open pattern. 42d row—Like the 24, but purl 37 instead of 35. Now knit eight more rows without increase, 5ilst row—lIncrease as before after kuitting two after the open pattern. 524 row—Like the 2d, bnt purl 38 instead of 35. Now go on knitting without in- creasing until the work measures 814 inches from the back neck. Finish after an even row. Cut the wool, Jeaving a few inches. Put these 51 stitches on to a spare needle. Darn in the woc! at the neck end of the otker 48 stitches, and work thus: 2d row of right side—Knit 3, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Re peat from * three times, knit 2, purl 35, 3d row—Knit 38, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from * thres times, knit 2. 4th row—Like the 2d. Repeat last two rows 11 times, 27th row—Kuit 34, kuit twice into the next stitch, knit 3, * thread for- ward, knit together. Reyeat from * three times, knit 2. 28th row—Knit 3, * thread forward, knit 2 together. Repeat from ® three times, knit 2, purl 36. Go on working without increasing for 12 more rows. 4ist row—Knit 35, increase as be- fore in the next stitch, then finish in the pattern. 42d row—Like the 28th, but purl 37 instead of 36. Go on working with- out increasing for elght more rows. 5ist row—Krit 36, increase as be- fore in the next,stitch, then finish in the pattern. 2d row—Like the 42d, but purl $8 instead of 37. Now go on knitting without in- creasing until this side is the same length as the other, finishing after an even row. Then knit across the 51 stitches plain, end knit across the left side, plain also, 102 stitches in all. Now knit in stocking-stitch across until the front Is the same length as the back, measuring from the back neck. In the last row knit the last two stitches together to get 102 Stitches, The Bordez. Knit border as follows: ist row—Knit 1, * knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 to- gether. © Repeat and finish with knit 1. 2d row—Knit. 3d row—Knit 1, * knit 2 together, knit 11, knit 2 together. Repeat from * and end with knit 1. 4th row—Purl, 5th row—-Knit 1, * knit 2 together, knit 9, knit 2 together. Repeat to the end and Anish with knit 1. 6th row—Purl, 7th row—Kait. 8th row—Purl. Repeat these eight rows four times, then work the ist, 2d, 3d and 4th rows. Then knit one row plain, and cast off on the wrong side. Cut off the cast-on loops at the bottom of the back and pick up the stitches, then knit the same border as at the front. 4 The Sleeves. For the sleeves, mark the center of the shoulder at the side with a (Courtesy Pansvecrmia Recoep.) pin, and pick up 24 stitches at each side for the sleeve, making 68 in all. Knit in stocking-stitch for 10 inches. Now work like the border of the jumper for three patterns in depth. Then knit 2 together, knit 2 all along to decreaso to 51 for the cuff. Knit the cuff in # rib of knit 1, purl 3, for 3 inches, and then work six rows in moss-stitch, that is knit 1, purl 1 in every row. The Girdle, For the girdle work 2 yards of chain. Thread this through the holes at the top of the border. Finish eff each end with a few loops of chain. Make a yard of chain for the neck, Lace through the sides of the opening as far as required, and break off; then finish off with loops of chain as on the girdle, but if pre- ferred, tassels may be used for both the girdle and the neck cord. When large blankets are worn out at the foot, cut off the tops and cro- chet around the edges with some bright colored cotton. By doing this you will have two crib blankets at hardly any cost or trouble. I always measure them to be sure I get them the size of the crib. Dainty Delicious Desserts Banana Charlotte Russe. Pass through a@ sieve enough ba- mana to make one cup, add one- fourth cup powdered sugar and two teaspoons of lemon juice. Beat until very light, then fold in & jar of cream which has been whipped. Line a mould with lady fingers and pour in the mixture. Serve ice cold. Pineapple Dessert. One can pineapple and juice; cut pineapple very fine, add juice and one cup sugar; turn this boiling hot into a bowl with one envelope of minute gelatine; pour into a mould and serve cold with whipped cream. Dutch Apple Cake. Take two tablespoons butter, half & cup sugar, One egg, two cups flour, three teaspoons baking powder, one- fourth teaspoon salt, one cup milk. Cream the butter, add the sugar ana beat the egg and add it Sift the flour, buking powder and salt togeth- er and add alternately with the milk. Pour into a greased pan. Place slices of apple over the top, over which sprinkle a mixture of sugar and cinnamon. Bake about 45 min- utes in a moderate oven. Serve with lemon sauce. Cocoanut Pudding. Place in a mixing bowl one cup bread crumbs, ono cup sifted flour, one-half teaspoon salt, one table- spoon baking powder, three-fourths cup cocoanut, one egg, one cup milk. - Poached 3. Beat to thoroughly mix and pour in- to a well-greased custard cup or pud- ding pan and bake {n » moderate oven for 85 minutes. Serve with lemon sauce. Nut Cake. Half cup of butter, one and a half cups of sugur, three eggs, two and a half cups of flour, one and a half teaspoons baking powder, half a cup milk, one cup of any meats of nuts preferred or at hand. Rub the but- ter and sugar to a light, white cream; add the eggs, beaten a little, then the flour, sifted with the powder; miz with the milk and nuts into a ratks> firm batter, and bake in a paper~ lined tin in a steady oven, 35 minutes, Cup Custard. Break into a coffee cup an egg, put in two teaspoons sugar, beat it up thoroughly, a pinch of salt, a pinch of grated nutmeg; fill up the cup with good sweet milk, turn it into an- other cup, well buttered; set ina pan of boiling water, reaching near- y to the top of the cup. Set in the oven and when the custard fs set it is done. Eat cold. Ham Omelet. Use two eggs well beaten, one-half cup of milk, one cup of ham cut in small pieces. Stir this mixture to- sether, place in omelet pan, and cook until it becomes the thickness of Serve on toast. >