The Bismarck Tribune Newspaper, March 27, 1919, Page 10

The past few months have been 2 time of watchful waiting on the part of students of fashion. The Breat question—shall we Nave a new ‘silhouette?—has been answer a dozen different ways. Some design- “ets say we shall, and have gone so far ‘as to contribute sketches of the _‘nbw woman of the new era. We + Idoked and read dubiously at the longer and peceptibly smaller waist- *\ ihe; the full effect over the hips and “thé flatness in the back and in the front. This sounds very plausible, and ig ‘a hypothesis for countless digres- sions, except for those vertical lines in the back and front of the skirt. They are very well to consider for the slen- der figure, but when one just isn’t ver- tical anywhere, the well-laid plans of our dressmakers might come to grief. However, so far there is no radical change in. the figure’s outline, though there is nq telling where the whims of the experts may land us before the summer is over. It is perhaps worth while to consider that ‘other wars have had their effect upon styles but gradually, with no suddent dif- ference in the mode, simply a slow 4 drifting over a period of several se sons into a culmination of a new fash- ion. After ‘all, does a silhouette really matter? Women have become inde- § pendent along other lines, and when { | We stop ard ‘take a look at the var- : {€d periogs, we see sponsored on the ! test dressers, it does look as if % were no longer slaves to their } modiste’s dictation. We see simul- , taneously on ‘the newest and most i dashing costuines any one of three i styles ‘of waist, high, low and the new “near-wasp” waist. We have skirts pleated, skirts short and skimpy, j skirts Yong and slit for ease in walk- } ng. We have long, : tight sleeves, flowing sleeves and short fitted-sleeves, Variety is the word, yet it spells style as expressed by individuality. Woolen fabrics which are the most popular for early spring suits are duvetyn, tricotine, gabardine, light weight broadcloth and the ubiquitous serge. Black, blue, gray and combin- ations of blue and henna, black and tan, and gray and navy are seen in the popular coat dresses. Braiding is extremely popular again and is car- ried out in silk and wool combinations, with heavy stitching and beads. Taffeta is, of course, the silken fav- most to the exclusion of foulard which was such a rage last season, Satin seconds taffeta for the new afternoon frocks and quite a number of printed georgettes and chiffons are being shown for afternoon wear. Tricotine is, of course, irreproachable, but it is so frightfully expensive that if may only be whispered about or used spar- ingly in connection with less grand material. There has been a great fear that our designers would not permit us to wear capes again this seqson. But our minds were relieved with the earl- iest showing, and since we have seen many variations of this most grace- ful and useful of wraps. They are not, quite so full as those°of last year; in fact they are not unlike the dolmans our grandmothers wore, pulled in at the hem and squared off as to sleeves. Others are glorified coats, with very wide ‘sleeves and the new loose effect: about ‘the waist which is very dis- tinctive. Scarf collars of the material bordered ‘at the ends with fringe ate seen on some of the satin and tricol- ette capes. } Utility coats are made in serge, sil- vertone, tweed and novelty fabrics. Set-in sleeves or ‘raglan: style .are fashion ALSO MEANS EASE / It is just as easy to have the children do your shopping here as others. LOGAN'S WE THANK YOU KAHKI ‘ed Cross| ‘NOW GOING ON AT- HOSKIN’S ‘550 POUNDS Worth $2.85 to $3.05 per Ib. FOR $2 .00 Per Ib.. cial fine quality for making socks which the Burleigh County Red. YARN of at once. © rN equally good, and on most ‘of the motor coats we have patch pockets and wide belts. As has heen proved times without number, the American’ worfen wi never give up her tailored suit, which she has always preferred but for which’ she in war’ times substituted the more practical ohe-piece dress and top toat. Suits for the most part made on simple lines, following a general slim idea, and trimmed with buttons or braiding. The coats vary in length, but the two most popular styles are the new box jacket and the straight coat of finger-tip length. Some suits have no collars at all, and no fastenings, merely a. separate waistcoat of pique, silk er linén which is basted in and has a belt of the suit material tied across it. Others have new ‘wide shaw! colar which. forms pockets at the oms of the coat, and still others cling to the mannish notched collar anda slightly flaring hem. Skirts tend to becoming fullness about the hips and ‘hug the ankles closely, giving a mére sugges- tion of the. barrel silhouette which was in vogue & few seasons back. One very smart suit ‘seen on the avenue was of navy -blue serge with the minute, : vice obtainable. : This-department is in charge 0 who know their And our prices: are low: for the skilled service we render you and for the properly fitted glasses we furnish you. Our Watch and Clock ~~ Repair E epartment are in charge of the best-skilled workman obtainable, and ean assure you perfect satisfaction in repairing a-hip length jacket which opened over a belted waistcoat blouse of cream linen crash trimmed with crocheted buttons ‘and edged with Irish picot. i The three-quarter sleeves were semi- flaring and the tight linen cuff of the blouse. coming down over the wrists gave a jaunty’air to the costume. The question: of “blouses always seconds the motion of the tailored suit. Geortette is being made up into waists of:brilliant colorings, and com- bining the most unheard-of materials. For instance, a peplum affair of sheer- est silk georgette crepe was trimmed with flutings on the collar and sleeves of white batiste. Another model of leaf green printed chiffon had a deep roll collar of handkerchief linen bound in green taffeta. These are sim sketches of what we have come to. But by far the smartest. blouses for sum- mer wear are those of finest batiste, made entirely by hand, and trimme: with hemstitching or inserts of Valen- ciennes lace; Net blouses are embell- ished with lace, pleatings and inser- tion, even to the sleeves. These are fresh looking for the first wearing, but they do not launder satisfactorily, and unless one has en unlimited supply business. your watehes and.clocks, i - If you‘are out of town, and have a watch that needs repairing, and do not have a box to mail.same in: drop us a card and we will send you one especially for this- and give you an estimate of the repairs’ by return mail. We haveone of the best and most complete Manu-' ig departments anywhere and are prepared to do all kinds:of manufacturing that you may want done and we do it right here in our store. We do not send out one piece of work—everything is done right here. We will gladly give you designs and estimates on anything | you want done and can asgure you that we can give you ‘Obtain elsewhe facturin . -hetter prices than you cans Agates cut and mountéd,'send for list 2 f experieneed men ile SE ARAMA Among the prettiest. and most pleas- ing’ purchases one can make in the way of morning frocks are those of the new English prints, This quaint fabric has supplanted. ginghams and percales to a large eftent, and there are some unusual designs ‘in soldat blue, helio- trope, yellow and rose which will be popular for tub dresses, The designs are small and not unlike the calicos we used to know, except that they possess an indefinable charm which eannot be duplicated. A few descriptions are given here- with of afternoon frocks, which may be of help to the girl who is clever enough to evolve her wardrobe from leftovers combined with new mate rials. A narrow skirt of navy blue net ruffles is tophed by a bodice of dark blue satin which has a waistcoat of lighter blue brocade, and a round col- lar of embroidery edged with ecru lace, Rose colored voile forms the nu- cleus of a charming dress, the skirt of which is made with four large tucks which are hand hemstitched. The coat-like tunic is trimmed with collar \ / re. | match the voile. A clever touch is given the whole by a narrow sash of Nattier blue ribbon which is knotted loosely at one side. umerous are the ways in which printed chiffons and crepes are made up. Most of them depend for their trimming on the fantastic, designs of the fabric, and are made quite simply over white silk sliy ruffled ’net collar or 2 vest made with ribbon run casings. Others’ are com- bined with plain materials of the,deep- er color, which is used for collars, .set- in tucks and bands on the skirt. Evening gowns, real, honest-to- goodness ones, are coming into. their glorious own again. Every imagin- able color is being shown, from. flam- ing red to shimmering black satin em- broidered in metal flowers. Often there are weird combinations: which create an effect of ancient Egypt by their gorgeousness. Metal cloth con- tinues to be quite a ufait, and it is ofttimes embroidered in very large Chinese or Oriental motifs. Skirts of this material have tunics of vivill hued ‘georgette gathered. into a fitted band ; at the hips. This gives a cylindrical they are not a happy investment. and pockets of Irish lace dyed to turn to the figure, and is used m~2 é Se pi foe Ley is ~ Our Optical Department + isinow completed and“ready for business: We have installed modern and up-to-date equipment right up to nd can give you the very best possible ser- for evening frocks than in daytime ones. It is another of the'new silhou- ette angles, if it can be said to re- semble’an angle at all. It is quite trying, not to say bizarre, and there are those for whom it-will provide a _happy vehicle, and those to whom it will:bring disaster. Returning to ma- terials, we are to see alot of: moire with! perhaps avin pagtel colors made up rather plain- ly in loose effects and oftener than not with a panel back termiyating:in a train. This attractive fabric does not lend itself to draping with as much gace as some of the softer’ materials, but it has a shimmer and_ dignity which is very charming. “Gold and silver lace’ combined with malines or taffeta is-made up into informal party frocks. Prettiest of all, however, are the unpretentious summer dresses whose simplicity sometimés belie the price ‘on the ticket, but for which there is no real substitute when it cdmes. to that effect of pristine freshness which _- iS the most delightful attribute of a woman at any time, especially: when the thermometer climbs. These dress- es, mad¢ of embroidered: batiste “over lored batiste slip, or of net with | sashes, dre shown in infinite ,, for lasses We fix “Watches and things ,) Right. ‘Let us test your eyes. & @ } & ue A ede we 7 ,