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« f leather, which also trim the SW ith whic FASHIONABLE { present to the exclusion of al- ery other form of dress bodices i that this fashion will ever come sway. i skirts aré not advocated, as s seen in the two last seasons. ness of the skirts and sleeves material for the early fall, satin is is the broadcloth with a satin red effects will be as for millinery use in the modes ike the ancient bayadere, but in coloring. ewn with f the latter sort. which will be as light and airy if not more so than before. WS, etc. lown to the elbows, the long simple dresses for daily use ~~ NOTES FROM GOTHAM, MID-SUMMER QUIET AMONG THE POLITICIANS, Return of Ex-Mayor Grant, and His Atti- tude Toward Tammany—End of the New York Yacht Club Crusle—A School for Young Shipbuilders. Special New York Letter. ‘The return of ex-Mayor Grant from his bridal tour in Burope has not thrown any light upon the existing local politi- cal situation, as it was supposed by many that it would. The ex-Mayor is well and happy, and has been the ob- ject of much attention, while rumor says that the telephone connecting with his business office has been’ kept busy since his return. ‘The ancient Greeks had a law thet a man should not be drafted into military service within a year after his marriage. Perhaps the ex-Mayor considers that this law should apply to the relation of the modern American to politics. At least, he has denied that he intends to take an active interest in politics, and in particular has negatived all inquiries that he proposes to be the boss of Tam- tive walking costume is of} many Hall. He stated his belief that The skirt moderately | the old wigwam did not need a boss, ed with a band of Rus-| and that he considered it far better that he corsage hooks in| it should be governed by the general left side under narrow | Committee. So it is apparent that the era of unbossed politics is upon us, un- less the very vigorous activity of Mr. Roosevelt at the head of the police de- partment be considered in the light of is occupying our attention yuses. A charming one for a ccasion is made of pale silk k, the sleeves are entirely new , and have a pretty effect with itterfly gathering down the f the outer arm, a chemisette muslin narrowly tucked and ith edging and frills. The Valenciennes laces are also t the tight fitting wrist. A r of green satin trims the finishes into a square collet cape is of Scotch plaid, silk. The pelerine is round- ith small side pockets. A is headed by a capeline plaid silk, standing collar w of plaid satin ribbon. chocolate colored hat for he whole crown covered Ss arranged in a nest of ze, their heads pointing On the brim, in front, with ad out, is an immense black h the shops are as yet con- « summer sales, | am able to fall novelties. eves have the fullness at the iusively and tight fitting over lers, will not as yet be adopt- fashionable woman. It is Ex-Mayor Grant is Kept Busy. bossism. There is no doubt that many citizens so consider it, but, on the whole, our summer population has adjusted it- self to the new conditions, and we are quite as happy as we wére a year ago in the throes of the great reform investi- gation. The New York Yacht Club closed its annual cruise this week at Newport in a blaze of glory. Splendid yachting weather prevailed throughout the cruise, and, on the whole, the runs and races were unexcelled for the number of boats engaged and interest of the con- tests. Of course, the trials of speed be- tween the grand old cup defender Vigi- lant and the new Herreshoff yacht De- fender were the most interesting fea- tures of thevcruise. These races were for “blood,” as the modern sporting term is, and the result fully established the supremacy of the Defender, although one of two of the victories of Defender over Vigilant were not gained withou! a suspicion of jockeying. In fact, by the public withdrawal of the Vigilant from any further contests with Defender, Mr. Willard, who has handled the yacht for Mr. George Gould in the ablest manner Possible, has shown his disgust for the Yankee tricks of the shrewd old mariner Hank Haff. Public sympathy is with the Defender, es it is always apt to be with the win- ner. I have had the real merits of the} case explained to me by an old yachts- man. It is evident, he says, that when Mr. Gould offered the Vigilant to the re- gatta committee for a trial horse, he had rather a larger object in view than merely to try out the new yacht. He meant to beat her, if possible. No ex- pense was spared to improve the Vigi- lant, and she was put in the best shape and handled in the ablest manner that any yacht has ever been in our waters. Mr. Willard and Capt. Charley Barr are Past masters in yachting tricks, and in the early races the Vigilant got the weather position and blanketed the De- fender every time that it was possible. These tactics were exceedingly annoy- ing to the Defender people, particularly when, in leading the Vigilant in a run before the wind, that yacht persistently kept in a position to take the wind from Defender’s sails and lower her speed. yuught at first they would be, ng the amount of simulated he decrease, as far as can be thick crepons in new effects, yollen goods and mohaireen he goods mostly seen. The ors will be worn as in sum- triped, dotted, flecked, n than ore § w emerald shade called ‘‘vert oinette’’ and the Louis XVI. the latest shades employed, e seen especially in velvets winter. smonda gauze for evening It is a very sheer with one filmly stripe of gauze er narrow one of satin of ex- udes. Some have the gauze little embroidered rse, sleeves having retained 1ess, that means Capes more ets and coats, yet some estab- will show some pretty speci- ill continue to be immense, in ecially epting the theater s of velvet ribbon, flowers ers, also birds and wings, will in trimmings, and everything to give the broad effect re- eat many fall hats the leading © quite a good deal of white d, bordered with black, ey not only border ribbon also use it sometimes as Some hats are trimmed rows of these little tuch- e them as aigrettes, but- h th wear, butter colored upersede the white ones mn last winter. Since the ur light costumes only ves are much in demand, and tly adorned with rich em- t the wrist. gloves are mostly worn, with ind for slipping the hand tion to shoes, it must be said s fer the tan colored arti- ear, which is the most mst dust. They are gh and either buttoned 1ade costumes the proper sh buttoned yellow shoes, mn of black patent leather. © worn with black stock- Capt. Hank Haff. Capt. Hank Heff finally got his Yankee dander up, and swore that he would keep the weather position of Vigilant at any sacrifice. And so the Vigilant’s Eng- lish skipper found himself more than matched by Yankee tricks and bravado, vender, a vigorous yel- rase are the favorite col- way to Defender or risk a collision that might have sent both yachts to the bot- tom. The result, however it may be viewed from the standpoint of yachting rules, has left no doubt in the minds of yachts- men that the Defender is the fastes: yacht ever built in this country, and and daring a skipper as ever held a wheel. When it comes to meeting the English yacht, we shall probably ap- plaud the tactics that so disgusted Mr. Willard. Capt. Haff sailed the Vigilant and he knows it is the English custom to take every possible advantage of starts and tricks in yacht racing. It is a curious fact that a people so a curious calculation on the amount of that she has in Hank Haff as shrewd! average epicure of three score and ten sheep, 100 calves, 200 lambs, 50 pigs, 2,200 50,000 oysters, 5,475 pounds of vegetables, 243 pounds of butter, 24,000 eggs and four in her races in English waters last year.| tons of bread. To this may be added several hogsheads of tea, coffee, wine, water, etc.” The above amount of solid and liquid would weigh but little short of forty tons. naturally adapted to maritime pursuits should have been so held back in com- merce as the American people have de The reason is no doubt due to the settlement and’ development of the «great West, which resulted in distract- ng the attention of the American people it large from the “spoils of the sea.” Yet, as a matter of fact, the population »f our Ailantic seaboard has never lost e for nor skill in seafaring ways. has always been shown in our great <oastwise commerce, and in our ability ut any time % build faster ships than any other nation, 4 It is not generally known that we have a college for young mariners in this city. ‘This is the Webb Training School for ioung Mariners, at Fordham Heights. liam H. Webb was one of the great- est of our shipbuilders in a past genera- He grew at the trade, and, With large-hearied generosity, esta! ty two institutions that are One is the Manual i ning School for Young Shipbuilde and the other the Home for Superan tated Shipbuilders and their wives. How significant are these two institutions of 4unerican love for the s22! Seven of the pu of the Webb school started this week in a boat of their own proposed next year to have young mariners build a vessel ough to cross the ocean and return. These two notable institutions, found- Mr. Webb, were formally opened in May, 1894. They are located on one n the delightful old village m, and surrounded by spacious ground The hool well »atrenized, and has a number of pupils trom the West. It po: es a naval sauseum, in w are placed models of all the best modern vessels. There le reason to think that our country will lack for ship designers or builders ure, when the Herreshoffs and all have passed away. h rike of the Brotherhood of Tai! ors seems to have been a success time, and we are promised an abate- meni of the sweat-shop system at last. A year ago the tailors made a desperate fignt to secure higher wages, but the strike resulted in a total! failure. No doubt a better market and better prices have made the contractors more yield- nt time. The making of has become one of the largest The employers and y Hebrews, who sly during in foreign hands. employees are mo: have come here so numerou the past few years from Ru: and Po- land. There are about 700 shops in this city. The present strike has been con- ducted with a rare regard for or and individual right. No outrages of any ind have been committed, and public sympathy has been with the strikers. The Name of Jona: ban Does Not Seem to be Very Popular Among Us. The Englishman is John Bull, the HOUSEHOLD HINTS. A pie-crust roller of glass, made hol- low to receive the packed ice necessary in handling puff~paste, is very chaap— so is the glass lemon squeezer, i durable, if only handled carefuliy. Instead of putting big dabs of butter upon the table, which always takes one’ appetite away ‘in hot weather, the little crimped butter balls, which we all 2d- mire so much, can be easily had by pay- Ing eight cents for a pair of butter ladles and keeping them in cold water for a few minutes before they are to be used It is worth while to get rid of wooden pails and tubs that dry up, as well as th> Cishpans and basins of metal, and re- ply em with the light and cheap, well as dubaple, paper pails, tub a Do away: with the heav; and kettles and buy s patent ware that washes ea then as clean as a cup and gaucer. A dainty woman’s table should always name- be supplied with a trio of brus ly, a stiff whisk, to keep walking free of dust; one of hair for and a soft, fine one for lace, ve t and delicate materials of hats. A little oval work basket ough: also to stand near at hand, containing a full sup) fresh shoe and corset lacings, as we! every sort of button, including blac e ones, for gloves. The comfort of car travel demands a loose robe, of either silk or flannel, for the sleeper. Soft felt hats on a long journey are recommended in place of the tf toque, or turban, which may be kept hin easy reach. Gloves and s: should be comfortable, while lingerie is ut of place. A black silk petticoat is veally indispensable, or one of black mo- hair, trimmed with silk ruffles. Black aosiery is preferable at all times, —— ee eee Chinese Primroses. For a winter blooming house pl there is probably no other that will They bloom persistently (in fact, bloom themselves to death, and may as well be thrown away as soon as their beauty is past); are not troubled with any of the insects or diseases that affect so many house plants, and are easily managed when once understood. They are grown from eed, and to have them in flower in m ter this is usually sown in May. Good plants may be secured of the flor- ists and dealers in the fall, however, and with the majority of amateurs this Is the safer method of procuring them, as mos: of the difficulties of cultivation are met with in the earHer stages of the life of the plant. When the plants are re- Irishman is Pat or Paddy, the Scoich- man is Sandy or Sawney, the Welshman is David, the Frenchman is Jean Cra- paud or Micaire, the German is Cousin Michael, the Swiss is Colin Tampon, the Hebrew is the Sheeny, and the American is Brother Jonathan. There is a nickname for the people of almost every country on earth. It is a singular cfrtumstance that, while John is a popular prenomen in England, and Patrick in Ireland, and David in Wales, and Jean in France, and Michael in Germany, the name of Jonathan has never become popular in the United States. All that is necessary to give any one evidence of this siate- ment is that he shall examine the direc- tory of the city of New York from be- ginning to end, or shall look through the directories printed in Philadelphia, Bos- ton, New Orleans, Chicago, Brooklyn, Jersey City, San Francisco, or any other American city. He may see Jonathan once in a while, as he turns over the leaves of the book; but he may g¢ through ten or twenty pages withou: seeing it even once. Patrick is on every page of a Dublin directory, as John on every page of an English directory but as for the name of Jonathan, it i seen about as often in an English as an American directory. It is possible that one reason for the unpopularity of the name with fathers and mothers lie: in the fact that Brother Jonathan is al- ways pictured as a very grotesque and unattractive personage, costumed in a ridiculous fashion, and calculated tc raise laughter rather than command re- | spect. John Bull is always depicted as a solid business personage; Brother Jonathan is depicted as a circus clow: It is a wonder that no American arti: has ever drawn a wirthy figure of the great and mighty and majestic Brother Jonathan, one that would be character- istic, significant and impressive, withou: too marked a violation of the trad that are associated with the name. It cannot be said that the “Uncle Sam” ot the picture makers is any better than the Brother Jonathan. Of the few eminent Americans wh< have borne the name of Jonathan, the most eminent was Jonathan Trumbull, Governor of Connecticut in revolution- ary times, from whom, as ordinarly sup- posed, came Brother Jonathan. The his- torian Sparks says that Washington re- garded Governor Trumbull as “one of his main pillars of support,” and he was accustomed to consult him in emergen- cies; thus, according to an old story in a biography of Trumbull, the words, “We must ask Brother Jonathan,” were so often spoken by the Father of His Country that Brother Jonathan became synonymous with the good genius of the young American republic. Certainly the nickname has been in vogue since an early period in the country’s history. As ordinarily personified, however, Brother Jonathan bears no resemblance at al! to Trumbull or to any othen man of the days of the war of independence. The personification is both humorous and un- happy. If the nickname grew out of Washing- ton’s remark, it had a far more distin- and was foreed on two occasions to give! guished origin than John Bull, the chol- eric, quarrelsome and vain old humbug. —New York Sun. Food for a Lifetime. M. Soyer, the noted French cook, made food a healthy man will consume in a ifetime of 70 years. M. Soyer says: “The years will have consumed 30 oxen, 200 fowls, 10,000 fishes of different kinds, Chinese Pri:nroses. ceived, if not already ia pots, they should be potted in four or five inch pots, as the size of the plant Indicates. In potting use a light, rich soll, made up of good loam, leaf mold and thoroughly rotted cow manure, and place plenty of drainage material in the bottom of the pot. Get them low enough in the soil so that they will sez secure upon it, out, however, covering tne crown. T: will succeed best. in that can be given them in ti » window, and in the strongest light during the dark days of early winter. After the buds start, care should be taken in watering not to wet them, as it is apt to cause v: The flowers come in al! shades of red from light pink to crimson, pure wh Jelicate blue and striped varieties. D. ers sell them under various names, such as “Cheswick Red,” dark red; “Holbern ‘ Blue,” a light porcelain shade; “Alba Magnifica,’” pure white, and “Village Maid,” ete., striped. There are also fera- leaved varieties. eo Cold-Storec Underclothes, Cold storage for underclothes is the latest novelty in the big downtown re- frigerators. One of the warehouse own- ers was taken by surprise the other diy when he received an application to cold- store several hundred cases of we underwear. The application came from one of the largest wholesale dry-g004: houses in the city, and the storage man was at first tempted to treat the matter as a joke. He took the goods, and later discovered the reason for the innovation. Tt seems that this has been an unusually brisk season for moths. The indus s but destructive moth millers had dis- covered the unsold underclothing ly: in the big stores and had proceeded take possession of i swarms. Finali, some one suggested that the pesky in- sects should be frozen out. Application was at once made for cold storage room, and the goods are now stacked up in atmosphere where the tempera: stands at 22 degrees, and where b play at snowball on these hot Ausus! days. If the experimen: of freezing out the moths proves a success the cold sto: men will have opened a new and able avenue for turning an honest pe: and people buying clothes will no lon- ger fear the corrupting moth. ess An Inference. ‘A genial bachelor of Brooklyn, whose locks were whitened wi.h the frosts o! some 50 winters, Was a the children in the n: residence, where t his pleasant stori ness one of hi girl of six or pay her respec: 2 says he nev have been born so.”—Harpe. THE NATIONAL CAPITAL. THE TARIFF QNESTION IN COMING FALL ELECTIONS. THE {t will Cut Something of a Figure 4s Maryland—The_ Silver Washington—Western Democrats Hedg- ing on the Question. Conference in Whether or not the tariff question will cut a prominent figure in the next Presi- dential campaign is one of the proble: about which politicians are more or less doubtful, and regarding which they {ook to the coming fall elections to give them a “pointer.” Many curious eyes will be turned on the election results in Maryland, owing to the peculiar rela- tions of Senator Gorman to the changes made by the Senate in the Wilson tariff bill. If there is any change in public opinion regarding that bill. it will prob- ably be quite as pronounced in Mary- land as elsewhere. Senator Gorman has been bitterly antagonized, largely on account of his tariff views, by a faction of Democrats in Maryland, who at one time showed a disposition to fight him on the tariff issue. If such an intention was ever entertained, it did not show any marked strength at the late Mary- land Democratic convention. But there is time enough yet. Senator Gibson, who succeeded Senator Salis- bury, was elected for.a short term. and the Legislature to be chosen this fall must select his successor. He is a can- didate for re-election. Senator Gib: is known here as one of the most agr able and popular of public men. 2 personally it is doubtful if any opposi- tion exists against him. But he was elected to the Senate as a representa- tive of the Gorman interest in Mary- land politics, against the full force of the opposition in his own party, and he loyally supported Senator Gorman in his fight against certain features of the Wilson tariff bill. Senator Gibson may therefore be said to stand for the Sen- ate side of the tariff issue, if such an issue exists. My information, however, is that all parties and factions are a little chary of the tariff question, pre- ferring to await developments in the in- dustrial situation before taking a pro- nounced position. Tariffs are alway apt to be one thing in theory and an- other in practice. The only test is t of practical trial. The present tariff is now having its trial, and there seems to be little disposition on the part of the friends of a still lower tariff to attack it. The change in public senti- ment, especially among reform Demo- erats, has been quite marked within a few months past, but the opportunity is afforded them to put public sentiment to a test in Maryland. The gathering here this week of free silver men was interesting as indicating a modification of extreme sentiment up- on that question. The Illinois delega- tion, of which Congressman Fithian is a member, started quite a boom for Hon. William R. Morvison for President. W. H. Hinrichson, who headed the IIli- nois silver men, and who has the honor of having called the first free silver con- vention ever held, was active in ad- vancing Mr. Morrison’s interests. Mr. Morrison, however, is not known as a very prominent free silver man; in fact, as recently been quoted upon pretty good authority as favoring sound mon- ey upon the basis of an internaticnal agreement regulating the ratio of gold and silver. Ynis is a platform u,pcr which many so-called gold men stand. and upon which the politicians of both parties seem anxious to be found. Cer- tainly, if the Western silver Democrats are prepared to accept Mr. Morrison it indicates a pronounced change from the radical sentiments held by them a few months since. Several pronounced silver men confess that public sentiment has been under- going a change upon the question of free and unlimited coinage of silver, and that the-utmost they can hope for is to force a compromise in favor of such Sen:tr Gitro of Ms int. future action as will protect the silver interests. One gentleman, who is prominently known, but who dees ni wish to be quoted, said to me: “Any- attempt to commit the Demo- cratic party to a single gold standard would simply split the party. However, the silver men do not demand an imme- diate approval of a free coinage law, and will be contented with a frank ex- pression in favor of bi-metallism as soon as a practicable measure can be enacted into law.” Undoubt tiy the disposition of this troublesome question will be lar; fected by the action of the next Cor gress. Apparently, the free silveritec have alarge majority, but Congression- al majorities on a particular meas are frequently influenced by changes ot public sentiment. Much depends uren the attitude of Speaker Reed—pres ing. of course, that he is to be the ne Speaker, about which there is apparen ly no doubt. The House has never a more forceful or resourceful Speaker than Thomas B. Reed, and there many reasons to think that his Pre dential aspirations, as well as his tural sentiments, will incline him not t« grant too ich encouragement to wild eyed silver orators. Indeed. i find men of both parties, and Populi well, who are inclined to t silver issue has shown stro toms of decline, and that the do not favor its early rest Senator Peffer, indeed, is nouncing the free silver idea favoring a currency | values. ted a , an ot of Argentine with a similar cu yO NO COUNTRY FOR CHILLS. Aud Quinine Was a Drug on the Market and Not to be Given Away. The Colonel suggested that I take along a package of quinine in my ride through the swamp country, as the towns were far apart and the drug be- yond the reach of many settlers. A: 9 o'clock In the morning I reached a cabin, to find the owner and his wife and three children sitting out in the sun. All had dive lips and haggard faces, and all were shivering with a chill. I told the man I would leave him some quinine, and was about to undo the package when he stop- ped me with a ges:ure and said: “Stranger, we ain’t chillin’ fur shucks, but thar’ is them beyond us that ar’. Leave me a plug of terbacker and save yer Kee-nine fur wusser cases.” On the door step of the next cabin satalone man. He was trying to scrape the bark off a sassafras root, but he shook and shivered so hard that he could make no progress. I told him I had some quinine as a free gift, bu held up his shaking hands and repli “Stranger, this hain’t no chillin to be cured by kee-nine, but is jist narvous- ness for the want of a sip of 1 You'll find road.” I gave him a sip from my flask, and at the next cabin found a woman and two children on the bed and two more children on the floor. The woman sa up in bed and shivered and shook and click- ed her teeth together, and as I explained the object of my call she replied: “Powerful kind o’ yo’, stranger, but thar’ is them as needs it further on “But haven’t you chills and fev “Wall, sorter, but nuthin’ to I reckon the most that ails me is wantof sputt If you'll be so kind leave me a pinch or two I'd be mi peart in an hour or so.” During the day’s ride of twenty-five miles I dispensed whiskey, snuff, tobac- co and pipes several times over, but no quinine. At the last cabin before I reached Marion I found a man stretched out on the bed and tied fast. His hands were as cold as ice, his lips as blue as if painted, and his shakes not only shook the bed but the whole cabin as well. “Tied he ‘un on so he ‘un couldn't shake off,” explained his wife. “I see. He has it pretty bad. I will leave all this quinine with you, and it ought to cure him in a week or two.”’ “Kee-nine! What's that fur?” “To cure chills and fever. I'll fix a dose for him at once.” “Stranger, don’t bother,” she said as I began at the package. “But he wants to be cured?” “Yes, reckon he does; but don’t bother with that kee-nine. If yo’d got a drop o” whiskey an’ a plug of terbac some powder an’ shot, ’ kin make Sam as peart as a butterfly by to-morro’ Tain’t ager as ails him, but it’s bein’ discouraiged kase coons is thick around yere and every dJawg-gone varmi climb faster an’ higher’n he kin troit Free Pri skey. chillin’ further down the eens A Much-Puzzled Husband. There is one married man living who was badly frightened the other nicht. He sent a note to his wife about 9 o'clock to say that he would not be home until late. The messenger boy, when he delivered the note to the wife, happened to mention that he had gone to the wrong house, and had been very wrathfully treated by a man for dis- turbing him. The wife read the note, which was on a scrap of paper. She thought a minute. Then she said to the messenger boy: “T'll give you a shilling if you will take the note back to my husband, and tell him that story without saying that you came here at all.” The boy pocketed the money and went back to the hushand with the note. “Well, why do you bring this back?” he asked. “Because they wouldn’t take it. A man came to the door. and told me if I didn’t go away he would break my neck for me.” The husband did not stay out late that evening. On the contrary, he got home as fast as the underground train could take him. He looked suspiciously at his wife, and said: “T sent a note, but the boy must have taken it to the wrong house.” “I suppose so,” said the wife, inno- cently. “I haven’t got it.” The man was dying to find out if any- body had called. but he was afraid te ask.—Pearson’s Weekly. ae aS ee The Lawyer Solved it Quickly. A famous lawyer once had a singular case to settle. A doctor came to him in great distress. Two sisters, living in the same house, had babies of equal age. who so resembled each other that their mothers were unable to dist'n- guish them when they were togetl and it happened that by the careless. ness of the nurse the children had be- come mixed. How were the mothers to make sure that they received back their own infants? “But perhaps,” suggested the law: “the children weren’t changed at all. “Oh, but there’s no Coubt that they were changed,” said the doctor. “Are you sure of it?” “Perfectly.” “Well, if that’s se, why don’t you change them back again? I don’t see any difficulty in that case.”"—London Tid-Bits. a he Editors Talk. “Say, the city editor, “It seems to me that t expression of you abou: showing a clean pair of heels not just the thing in the report of a bi- cycle race. All right,” answered the lazy reporter. “Just stick in a ‘w’ and make it a clean pair of wheels.”—Cincin- naii Tribune. pa ee A Born Detective. Little Johnny—I know what the baby is goin’ to be w’en he grows up. He’: cm’ ta be a detect: yther—Of all t 3) smart? le Johnny—No’m. Because he nev- er sleeps.—New York Weekly. SS Se ees Natural Instinct. Her—John, I believe the baby has swallowed your collar button. Him—I: won't take long to find out. If he has, he will try to crawl under the bureau in a few minutes.—Pottsvile Standard. igs? Because he’: Se In New York. New Minister—I saw you going into a saloon yesterday, Mr. DeGood. Mr. DeGood—Yes; my wife was off to a church society meeting, and I dropped in there fon mething to eat—New York Weekly.