The evening world. Newspaper, March 6, 1922, Page 19

} somether in the next. By By Margery Wells. ¢ BOUT spring etyles we receive the encouraging and, at the same time, bewildering infor- ‘may.on that they will be “simple.” A S Oh, what @ pit- fall lurks there for the amateur in the expression of simplicity! It fs one thing to express simplic- ity but quite an- other thing to ex- Dress — plainness, and the two are so closely linked that, unless one is experienced par excellence in the ways of drawing the fine line of difference, it is dif- floult to accomplish. A designer who makes a gown that is marked by the description of “‘sim- Plicity” after it is finished is the one who has worked countless minutes multiplying into hours to obtain the unstudied effect. She has realized tt the very untrimmed surfaces are 19 call forth the acme of her powers wel (© and efforts. She knows by experi- ‘ence that unless every line is true, every stitch is perfect and every fold miraculously in place her efforts will all go for nothing and her creation will be dubbed ‘‘dowdy.”” ‘Have you ever seen a gown made by @ rank amateur and termed imp! ‘The pain of that exhibit comparison. It is simple, good- ness knows, but it is too simple really. It is too plain and expressionless. The art of injecting simplicity into plain- ness is something that is a product of the brain plus an artistic ability. it you have that ability (it Is a God-given thing) then you are safe, but if you are hazy as to what it means then don’t try making the simple thing. Better to load the dress full of trimmings to cover up defects than to allow them to show to the gaze of the world at large. Draping is characteristic of the newer dresses that are termed simple. But if you have ever tried draping, then you know how extremely dif- it it is to accomplish. You must we just the right materials, and just the right hang and just the right way of placing them together. And, before you go about doing this, you must make a study of the fine points of the principles connected with the effect called simplicity. Most of the modern dresses that are \ being shown by the New York de- qisners look as though they were cut one moment and stuck or sewn In fact some of them show not the least sign of hav- {ng had any undue amount of stitch- ery applied to them. But go home and try with a piece of straight material to get just that effect and see how hopeless the propo- sition is. You sigh for the days of the curves and trimmings that made dressmaking life so easy. You pine ior a large sash to cover up the de- fciencles of joining waist and skirt, you hope that the day will come when collars are in fashion again so that any little mistake about the neckline may be judiciously covered up with a half yard of real lace. Now, the plan on which the big de- Maxims of a Your Health, Your Appearance and Your Job New Series, This Page, Beginning Wednesday, March 8 Doris Doscher Crepes Are the Thing for. the New Simple Frocks, but They Are Also Using Satin, Printed Silk, Soft Woollens. By Marguerite Mcoers Marshall Copyright, 1922, (New York Bvening World) by Press Publishing Co. signers are working is this: They know how difficult is the way they are travelling. They know the mis- takes that can be made with one little slip of the scissors, They know that they must have their wits about them every single minute of the time or that, even when the very most expe- rienced fingers are concerned, they dre apt to let their art wander a little from the strictest technique, and that the result is fatlure. Then, their only hope for the gown is to turn it into something that is not quite s0 simple, but which is trimmed in the places where the pure simplicity of the line has been interrupted, If a designer with all the experis ence in the world has this sort of heart failure over a simple frock, what can we expect from the ama- teur? And yet there are’ some ama- teurs so artistic by nature that they manage to do, with a Inck of tech- nique, what the more experienced person may fail to do. This feat is the exception rather than the rule, but if you have any possibilities in that directfon by all means create your own gowns and coats and wraps this spring. For now is your chance, You have more opportunity. I remember once, when I was a struggling young milliner, I was given a simple hat to make. Well, I strug- fled over the plain fit of the brim, I pulled it this way and tucked it in on the other side and succeeded in muk- ing about as sad & mess of it as any young milliner has ever done before or since. “I handed it to my designer, I must confess, with fear and trem- bling. Then I saw her look of un- adulferated disgust wander toward me down the long table. T heard her say "What sort of a mess is this?!” ‘ “Well,” I managed to blubber, “maybe I can fix It."* “You may be @ fine little fixer,"* came her disgusted tones, loud enough EAR MISS DOSCHER: How often should one apply that solution you ad- vised for the lips? Can you suggest some- thing—a mai ercise—for flab- by cheeke? My face is becom- ing rather stout and flabby. 1 am a blonde and 1 have a few freckles around ‘the forehead. Do you think if 1 used peroxide on them it would hurt the hair? ANXIOUSLY WAITING. It can be applied frequently without any harm, but remember that mes- sage is also helpful. The fMabhy cheeks are caused by sagging muscls underlying the outside cover of the face. You must take a rotary mas- sage that will tone up these muscles, and rubbing the face with Ice ts also helpful. It {s even possible that ihe Modern Maid ‘wonis Time is the worker who mends a broken heart so skilfully that the next possessor isn’t even aware a fracture once exjsted. Bills."" yeast, It must be so nice to be a man. CERTAIN type of modern woman ought to put up a sign: What she calls her mind ts merely free ground for the dis. play of every well advertised fad, from psycho-analysis to eating “Post No He can stand over the desk of any woman in his office and talk and tal; and 7ALK, and no matter how busy she is or how much of a bore he js she must look as pleased as if the Sultan had just passed her his handkerchief. When your husband ts coming down with a cold and refuses to take « quinine pill, that's “masculine firmness."’ are similarly contumacious, that’s ‘feminine ebstinac A wife is like a suit of clothes, take,rea! comfort in her he has hac tired of her. super-tax."* powder puff, y: ie used sparingly. “Beep \t up, kid, you're doing fn: Sometimes a cat says *'miau! miau!"’ your husband are so lucky, dear, not to have to bother about that horrid When a man says to a woman, ‘You flatter me,'’ what he really mean: When, on a similar occasion, YOU When a man has had her long enough to her go long that he's just a little bit and sometimes she says: ‘You and ‘The really clever woman finds truth almost as necessary a weapon as her realizes that the best effect from either is obtatned when it No girl ever forgets the first man who tells her she's been an inspiration him, even if, five years latet, she concludes that he probably didn't mean it, THIS FASHION TALK WAS DELIVERED OVER THE RADIO PHONE LAST SATURDAY NIGHT Why Not Look Your Best? By Doris Doscher Copyright, 1922 (New York Evening World) by Press Publishin Pie ae a a HEN prs tune y 3 sis. ay ! ded for all of my contemporary strugglers to hear, “but you'll never fix any- thing.as plain as this.” I could see that she was right and that I would have to train on for many more years before I had learned to do that plain thing with anything like perfection of touch. I saw the hat go into the discard and my reputation as a milliner fall into the rubbish along with it and that is the reason that I can speak im such heartfelt tones about this matter of simplicity. My advice to you is if you are con- templating doing any of the newer and simpler thi at home or with your little dressmaker, to get a piece «f muslin and to practise on that with unadulterated vim until you actually know what you are about. It is not an interesting occupation, this taking of the first slow steps, but it is nec- » The Sleeves Are Long and Flowing, There Are Draperies at the Sides of the Skirt, and the Bodices Are Bloused. essary and you will be glad that you decided to practise on unimportant material, when you see the clever and professional look that your frock at~ tains in comparison with those which have been more indiscreetly handled. Crepes are the things for the new, imple frocks. Crepe in all of its weights is the material par excellence for methods of draping, but they are using satin, too, and printed silk combined with plain and some of the softer woollens, such as velour and fine cashmere, ‘The sleeves are long and flowing. There are draperies at the sides of the skirt, the bodices are bloused, so that the whole effect is of no shape at all, But, as a matter of fact, there is 80 much calculation and form underlying all of thut shapelossness that it is a hard thing to copy tnless you are extremely artfr!. A Dog’ Autobiography of Laddie Boy Is Unleashed By Neal R. O’Hara s Life Copyright, 1922 (New York Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. Being Chief Executive of White House _—_— Kennels Would Make Any Airedale Lose His Hair, EMBERS of last Adm tnistration caused relapse of paper short- age getting out books. That was Principal reaction of 1920 election, next to official count ballots. But nothing like that can -happen again. Laddle Boy is out with official memoirs before rest of Harding Cabinet can beat him to it. Laddie Boy is official Co. condition is caused by your lack of general exercise and sufficie. t deep breathing exercises in the open vir. J am sure that if you look to #1 of these the flabbiness will disappear and you will Improve your general ap- pearance. For the freckles I prefer yeu to use diluted lemon juice or but- termilk, : Doscher: very oily. | also lerable trouble with pimples and blackheads, which dry up and leave dark blotches. Be- sides this, the pores on my nose ly are very conspicuot Could you tel me some remedi for this condition? PEG. For the pimples, general attention to the health is necessary. Beware of too rich and heavy a diet. The blackheads must be thoroughly cleansed with hot water and soap end then rinsed with cold water and rubbed with a plece of ice. This will close the pores so that! think you will have no further trouble. Dear Miss Doscher: | have superfluous flesh on my eyelids, which almost ps my eyes closed, giving me a aquinty look. Could you please tell me if there is any way of getting rid of this? WORRIED. The puffy effect around your eyes may be due to eye strain or internal disorders, but if it is simply super- fluous flesh you will get some relief by applying hot compresses and bath- ing with an astringent solution of 125 grammes of distilled rosewater to 5 grammes of pure alum, and remem- ber that a light massage is also help- tal r Miss Doscher: The white of an egg, you know, dered ave used it twice for washing my hair and found it very eoft- ening. Recently my mother sug- gested | use it to relieve my chapped hands and face, Do you b e it visable? What the power of the white of egg Also how oan | get rid of a few dozen blackheads that insiat upon invading my nose, but stand aloof from the reat of my face? MISS READER. The white of an egg has many healing properties and is used witn reat benefits in all sorts of wayy It is excellent in the shampoo and will not do the hair the silghtest bit of harm, and! think you will also fing that it will helo the chapped handy for and face. The treatment blackheads was printed Dec. member that the nose is the most Prominent feature of the face and that the dust scrtles there. Thou oughly cleanse wth hot water and 5 mild soap and sllow it to remain on for w few minutes, rinse with warm water followed hy orld hound dog of Gamaliel Administra- tion. They’ve got to quit kicking him around. Says so himself in auto- biography, which we publish fully and exclusively to-day. By LADDIE BOY. (Himself, not a Moving Picture.) MONDAY. Busy day to-day. Re- ceived doglomatic representative from Denmark, He's a good feller and a great Dane. Lunched informally with Senator Poodle under White House steps, Visited in afternoon by delega- tion from Anti-Saloon League, Gave me list of hooch hounds they want appointed. Also demanded change in Constitution to permit sniffing at suit cases without a warrant. Anti-Sa- loon Chairman barked all afternoon but I refused to give him either “Woof” or “Gr-r-r’ for an answer. TUESDAY. Cable to State Depart- ment says our doglomatic represen- tative to Kennels of St. James's knocked over another plate of beans while wagging his tail at the Johnny Bulldogs. Lot of growling in Senate about this. Some of Senators want me to whistle his recall. Rather quiet day otherwise. Anti-Prohibs complain that Eighteenth Amendment Is a failure. Say pedigreed pups have all the stuff they want to lap up but mongrels mope around with tongues hanging out. Also say Prohibition {s driving dogs to drugs. Claim thou- sands of ‘em are sniffing to-day that never sniffed before. Prohibition fanatics are simply driving some dogs to hydrophobla. Must take this up with Cabinet WEDNESDAY. My old friend, Pekingese, Ambassador from China, dropped in to favor open door policy. Peke claims door is shut on him ali the time and he never has chance to get out of the parlor. Also objects to excessive laundering he is subjected tv. Says he’s washed twice a day and combed out at sume time. Have to pity Pekingese, but can do nothing fer him, As long as he looks like mop without a handle, rest of diplo: dogmatic set is going to bulldoze him. Went out for short romp in park to day, but no fun with these secret ser- vice bloodhounds ut your heels. THURSDAY. Guess Disarmament Conference will furnish resuits, Eng lish bulldogs, Jap poodles and French lap dogs have agreed to have teeth pulled out if I will do same. 1 am go: ing to dentist's first, and will ulso Wear muzzle to prove good faith. No use fighting all the time when you cun spend time more profitably hunting for bones and nosing around garbage cans. St. Bernard, the Swiss doglo mat, came to see me to-day with pur- cel. of brandy strapped around hi heck. He's a jolly good fellow FRIDAY. This farm bLioc Ms nervous. Upper Dog House has lots of prairie representatives thut stick together in solid pack. Control maajority on head and tail yote, and ! cun't seem to scare ‘em by rattling G. O. P. tin can, Make me so mad I Gould bite a few of ‘em. makes SATURDAY. Bonus uestion has got me scratching my head. Dog that saved world from going to the dachshunds now want bone for every day they fought, Don't know where we can raise the bones, We lent couple of billion bones to Europe ur they won't even g hi for interest. It vertainiy te a g dog's Ufe, if you don’t weaken Aa WHERE ARE YOu GOIN IY CHILD 7 SHE'LL NEVER. LAND 4 HUSBAND LOOKING LIke A VAMP on at, ~ You ARE Oo OLD ' FASHIONED! Copyright, 1922, 66X JOU can't trifst anybody these days, I do believe,” said Mrs. Jarr solemnly, as Mr. Jarr dodged the account of Princess Mary’s honeymoon in the evening paper to seek the sporting pages to learn how the baseball clubs are shaping up in Texas, preparatory to the opening the big league games. “That's what Muller, the groc was remarking rather significantly at the pinochle game in Nol's smoke shop last night.” replied Mr. Jarr. Mrs Jarr tossed her bh you would not meet your tradesmen socially, you wouldn't be embarrassed by their remarks,” she retorted “But L was not alluding to trades- men's bills. 1 was speaking of Clara Mudridge-Smith. She's up to some- thing that 1 know I will have to ex- plain and apologize for." How come?” asked Mr. Jarre with eye on his newspaper, yet affect- ng great Interest, ‘Why, she's been » to me lately tie City and everywhere, r “I know she's up to some- ‘ing and ['m so tired of explaining and excusing for others, 1 wish | knew some nice new people. You can always brag about new friends because you don't know anything but what is good about comparative strangers." “You don’t think sle's going to See ae How They Began. EXPRESS COMPANIES. HE first American express TT company “wus tau ne hed eighty-three years uxo, wh an advertisement apr 1 in the Boston and New York 4 ers an- nouncing that ‘William F. Harn- den has made arrangements with Providence Railroad and the New York Boat Company to run 4 car through from Boston to New York, and vice versa, a week. car himeelf, packages, to his care and see Uiew delivered." He opened office No. 1 Wall Street in New York a No. 9 Court Street in Bosto' us the first of the greut expre companies of the United States ad four times He will accompany the take care of all smull that may be entrusted safely at viada Was launched. Harnden competitor was A hecame the founde ' The Jarr Family By Roy L. (New Yor: Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. McCardell beat up her old man or anything like that, do yor Mr. Jarr inquired. “What foolishness you talk!" snapped Mrs. Jarr. ‘Yet T know Clara Mudridge-Smith is up to some- thing, She telephoned me she would be over this evening, so I suppose I'll soon know."” “Maybe she's going to leave her husband,”’ suggested Mr. Jarr, “He is very fond of her; lets her have her own way in everything, 1s able to give her every luxury and gladly does so. As she was very poor and had to support herself, working long hours and for little pay before she married old man Smith, 1 wouldn't be Bur prised if she could stand it no longer nd was resolved to live her own life in her own way.’ At this point, Gertrude, the Jarrs inaid, announced Mrs, Mudridge smith as a caller, and that ornate young matron came fluttering in high state of carefully considered citement. “L have great news!'! she cried. ‘I have a wonderful plan to reform the movies,” . “Are you going to be a censor 100?" asked Mr, Jarr, “Not at all," haughtily 1id the visitor some- “But Thad a sereen made of myself, and everybody am beautify! on the film and she held up a series of pictures on a strip of celluloid be- tween the Jarrs and the light “I can't make anything out of it,”’ Mrs. Jarr sald, after a careful exami “Is that a ghost or a snow man “It's me, in my cream colored eve ning gown," said the visitor petulant ly “IT haven't seen it projected yet, but Mr. Guller of the Mastodon Mo- tion Picture Company, says {t made him gasp tn the projection room.” “Everybody gasps in a projection room, T hear’? remarked Mr, Jarr, “There 18 positively no ventilation, and all present have cigars. But how are you going “to reform the motion * picture industry ?"" “By forming my own militon dollar company and having only actors ¢ ligh social standing and trreproach- able morals, like myself." “Oh, I thought it was just that you re golng to leave your husband,’ ventured Mr. Jarr with a smile ‘Well, won't T have to do st od thing like that, if only for the pub- licity—after 1 get the money from me" asked the visite ‘Why, of re said Mr ¥ left them to discuss the urther particulars of the proposition. LT) The Fifth Happiness Key ' Self Improyement” Discussed by Mrs. Sally James Farnham GO AND WASH OFF THAT PAINTAND PowDER. AND TAKE OFF THOSE VAMP CLOTHES ! aoe me eee NEN LIKE NATURAL BEAUTY. NOT 4 NESS OF PAINT AND PowDeER! Courtship and Marriage’ By Betty Vincent 1922 (Naw \ors Evening World) by Press Publishing Oo. Copyright, to write to each othe first after arriving hom! did not answer for six weeks, He said he lost my address and thought | would care enough about him to write more than one letter. After a week elapsed | answered his letter, and now it - has been four weeks and | have heard nothing from him. | am wondering if it would be proper for me to write again? Would it look as if | were running after him? PUZZLED.” ‘The young man is evidently not very keen on letter writing. If I were you I would not write another letter, but just drop him a postal card and you will probably find he is much better at sending postals than he is at “taking his pen in hand,’* “Dear Mise Vincent: Could you advise a young man how to prove how much he cares for a young woman? This particular girl does 66 TEAR Miss Vincent: | am a D young man twenty-one ‘3 of and have been keeping company with a young woman for a year and a half. This young woman is three years my senior, and some time ago she told me that there was a certain young doctor, from up State who visits her home at time: and whom her mother is very anxious for her to marry. | told the young woman that | was not able to marry yet financially, and she has replied that she would rather wait for me than to marry this other man, Do you think this is true love? ANXIOUS.” This is a question which time alone can solve. If the young womun does not love the doctor she would be most unwise to marry him, Better just not believe it when I tell her I continue your friendship with her, care for Whi and since you are both in the early Segetier we ale 2 areye twenties everything will probably 7 eUse0"hard feelings between us. Comin Gul FOS AY Thanking you in advanes for your “Dear Miss Vincent: About six advice, PT.” months ago while visiting my cousin | the old story of “lovers' quar- met a young man and but to avoid them try to get some topic of mutuai interest whieh will keep you from petty a2guments. we became the best of friends. fore | came home we promised Recipes Worth Knowing FRIZZLED HAM. OMETIMES small, thin slices can S be shaved off and fried or broiled crisp and served either on toast or a# an accompaniment to the griddle cakes, Thin shavings can be cut and made into a delicious luncheon or sup- fully breuk an esg on top of each, dust with pepper, salt and ccacker meal and bake about eight minutes, BANANA SALAD. Peal, scrape and cut bananas into des engths, Arrange them on lettuce leaves and put u fow drops of per dish; put a teaspoonful of butter jemon juice on euch, Between the into pan, When hot put in the ham, gtices put mayonnaise into. whioh five minutes. then sprinkle over @ whipped cream has been folded. tablespoonful of flour and try Yrowa. sprinale finely chopped pistacnto mut Pour in as much sweet milk as is ree mi over the banan: and over the quired to bring it to proper consist. 2 A ut finely chopped Eug- en and let it boll up, then season Mayonnaise pu ¥ Ba eae ae andl oaraer lish walnut meats and maraschino cherries HAM SCALLOP, op cold APPLE CUSTARD, m and add an equa! amount of bread crum»s, Season ‘Thoroughly mix one cup apple sauce with pepper and salt, if needed. To with yolks of one egg. Sweeten if euch cup of the mixture add a table- necessary, Fold in the stiffly beaten spoonful of meited butter and sum- ent milk to form a soft mass, Have ™n pan well greased and half he rings with the mixture, Care- white of egg. Pour the mixture into custard cups, set in pan of warm water and bake about twenty minutes: in @ moderate even.