The evening world. Newspaper, February 4, 1922, Page 3

THE EVENING WORLD'S FASHION REVIEW SECTION, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 1922. 3 The Costume Blouse Goes to DESIGNS BY MILDRED LODEWICK. By Mildred Lodewick. Copyright, 1942 (New York Evening World) bh schie- by Presse Publismink Co. EAING at a fashionable hotel, amid soft lights, dance music, and filling in the interims the sweet warbling of singing canaries, accompanied with merry chatter, forms a_ refreshing diversion for one’s busy day. Tea drinking is an American habit now. Smart afternoon gowns are worn under fur coats or luxurious wraps of fabric, fur trimmed. Capes are very modish too, one beautiful model I noted the other day being of accordion plaited black silk, the plaits held about the shoulders with bands of monkey fur, the same of which the collar was made. The cape was lined with gray chiffon velvet, which accomplished an effect of richness and warmth. I believe we shall see many capes this spring and summer. They correspond with the drapey atmosphere of our frocks, with their wide loose sleeves. When suits are worn to tea, the accompanying blouse is always of such a character as to create a cos- tume effect when the coat is removed. The two models I have designed here silken fabrics such as Canton crepe, crepe de chine or crepe-knit. Sometimes the effect is good to have the blouse of a hue a bit lighter than the suit, and trim- med with the same one as the suit are good for or vice versa. idea at the left where bands of the lighter or: darker shade embroidered perhaps in beads outline the straight neck, and the openings in the sleeves. A piquant touch is applied by the jaboting frill which falls down the left side, to be weighted with a tassel that lays against the skirt. At the top a braid ornament forms an ef- fective finish and is repeated on the sleeve. A heavier application of the braid, however, is seen about the hips, where a band of it finishes the blouse. Tarnished silver or gold, or the self color might be employed for it. Should the blouse be of satin or silk exactly matching the skirt, a con- trasting colored chiffon might Le pretty for the frill and finisaing bands, such s jade green or brick red on brown, black or dark blue, Even yellow might be pretty, for that especial color is in high favor jst now. Negligees of it, also underwear, and evening gowns in vivid hues are effective foils for the black and white of which one sees so much, The other blouse at the right in the sketch expresses a bit more of mia- tronly dignity. It might be of chiffun velvet. made more delicate by open work bands of hand fagotting, or a lighter weight fabric like satin would do. The lines of fagotting form the main trimming feature, and lead gra- clously to the high collar in the front and back. A frill of silk lace ‘ai:s softly about the throat, while Ing ends of ribbon from the base of the collar add decided chic. The purse one carries to tea doesn’t have to be the kind one takes shop- ping, but rather one of those smart little affairs of silk that is made from a flat shaped length about 10 inches long, of padded silk, which is folded end clasped together. At the folded end, which is narrower, @ strap handle is attached. Inside are a tew little pockets holding powder and such perquisites, and also a tiny silk purse for change, which clasps, is sewn to one side, Bills could be alip- ped in any of the other lttic pockets. Such an affair could be easily made This would be a good by the woman who sews, and it would lend to her toilette a finish of refinea elegance. I saw a distinctive little frock the other day which featured buttons as a trimming. They were upplied up the inside seams of the sleeves and con- tinued down the side seams of tha frock. They were of white pearl on dark blue poiret twill, and the yourg girl who wore this frock seemed un- aware of the clank which the buttons caused when they struck together. Embroidery is the chief trimming of frocks, but many frocks are un- trimmed, They achieve distinction through clever color and fabric com- binations. Petunia is a color much used with dark blue and black. Scarab green Ils another modish color, being a bit deeper and bluer than jade. I saw a novel ornamentation for a girdle on a black crepe frock at tea recently. It was a bunch of black velvet ribbon ends, which were tipped with red sealing wax and lent a de- lightful flick of color at the side- front. Fragile in effect but really most wearable are the afternoon frocks of dyed lace. Founded over self color satin and completed with a satia girdle or flower they are not conspicu- ously dressy, and are yet airy and dainty. The first of February is considered an appropriate time to buy a new hat—a sort of in-between-season hat to last until Haster. It is a welcome addition to our winter costumery, re- viving our interest in that which is beginning to show the wear it has had One of the models I have pictured is a flower toque in geranium color with a tuft of brown grass emerging from one side, to fall against the face. Delicate brown lace drops over the edge of the tiny brim, and the wearer looks through it with enchanting co- quetry. At the right I have shown a satin hat with its brim cut open in front to reveal the knot of a large faille ribbon bow that sets on the crown, Bows, by the way, promise to be @ favorite spring hat trimming. Hems for Dresses Going Out HERE used always to be hems i on all edges of dresses. Now there are other things to take their places. Dresses no longer seem to need hems to make them look fash- fonable, where once the lack of a hem was the frock’s immediate doom. Now, if you will look about at the newer frocks, you will see the most fascinating finishes where once there were plain and uninspired hems to do the work. There are picot edges. There are selvages left plain and uncut and un- noticed. There are tiny, bias bind- ings. There are edges of silk braid and edges of cotton braid. There are long stitches of wool. There are fac- ings of chiffon. There are ribbons peeplng out from under plain edges, There are laces doing the same sort of thing. There are crocheted edges where once hems bloomed. There are beads sewed on to edges in close and uninterrupted rows. There are edges of gold and silver galon. There are any number of other and even more original ways of finishing the edges. All of this saves a lot of labor on the gown. Manufacturers have found it out to their great glee and satisfac- tinn. But, if you are making dresses yeurself, think what oceans of time you can save by observing these new little rulings of fashion. They polat the way to frocks that can be put tw- gether in a half a day. For instance there is the one piete gown that is pPicoted around all of its edges, even around three sides of the front and back of the skirt. Then, all that is left to be done, when the material comes from the hemstitchers, is to put that dress together with a few tacks here and there and an elastic at the waistline. Look at the draped evening dresses of heavy crepe and satin and velvet, Whenever a selvage appears there {ft is left to shine as a part of the gar ment. No designer thinks of swb- merging it under a hem. This hemlessness is hard to get used to—for those who have hem stancards imbued into their souls, Bat it is done, and it is extremely Smart where dressing is an art, NEW “FRENCH DOLL” FAD HITS PARIS—NEW YORK NEXT? These are the surt of tittle dressud-up dolls that French women Bove t have p.elwd upon divans aud chairs in their salong The dolls’ deesses avunfly match the furnishings quite charminuly. Americaa visitors in Paris have been captivated by the iad