The evening world. Newspaper, January 28, 1922, Page 14

u 2 _ THE, EVENING WORLD'S FASHION REVIEW SECTION, SATURDAY, JA UARY 28, 1922. a Tea Gown Has Charm All Its Own By Mildred Lodewick Copyright, 1922, (New York Evening World) by Pres Publiming Co. N these days of snow and ice and ] sparkling frost there comes the twilight hour, The entr’acte be- tween afternoon and evening, when curtains are drawn, log fires set to crackling, candles lighted, und amidst gach cozy surroundings tea served and sipped and gay chatter enjoyed among friends. . The. woman of Icisure who serves tea at home usually dons a becoming tea gown composed of dainty airy fab- ries and in type a cross between the negligee and the evening gown. The informulity of the one and the for- mality of the other are cleverly neu- tralized into a pleasing creation of individuality. For the tea gown is distinctly a garment for the expres- sion of personal taste. The woman, therefore, who complains about fash- fon's dictates which seem against her, fnds in the tea gown a haven of re- Hof and delightful indulgence. I have seen some rather exotic cre- ations expressive of the spirited wearer, while others of delicate colors expressed a contrasting temperament. Personally I like to see a hostess in vivid colorings at the tea hour when the drabness of the day outside is just turning to night and inside the softly lighted rooms are effectively enlivened. Tangerine color is pretty on both brunettes and blondes, while jade and sapphire are also good. I have designed two tea gowns en- tirely different in type, but expressive mf the characteristic attributes before ‘Mentioned which are the sum total “@ the tea gown. At the left you will igge a sleeveless jacket of metal bro- @ade bound all»around with metal braid or ribbon. A color such as sap- phire blue, emerald or rose being in- troduced in the brocade is repeated in chiffon for the frock and for the lining of the jacket. Two cast-oif evening gowns could be graciously al- lied in this way. ( As a complement to this toilette of rich and elegant charm, a pair of bracelets, cither of regular type in oxidized metal, jewel “set, or a paic mide of metal braid like that used on the jacket, buckled with tiny colo. et Luckles, are placed about the upper arm, And to them are attached ty long ribbon streamers which pur! from each other, dropping over the arm, only to be united again at ie wrist. They lend an air of grace which counteracts the somewhat hard surface of the cout and its rathne- severe lines. The same little trick could be employed cffectively will: en evening gown, The other teagown in the sketch is of chiffon or indestructible voile in jade green or orange, combined with satin or chiffon in seif or contrasting color for the foundation slip. The green could be founded over dull or medium blue or violet, while the or- ange could be allied with red or deep amber. The upper or muin portion of the gown is slipped on over the head in the form of a chemise blouse that drops nearly to the kKnoes, with a very elongated waistline. Fine accordion cw side plaits elaborate the bodice portion, which is cut very low to reveal the slip in the front, and outlined with fur in brown or black. luce embroidered in the same color as the chiffon drops in a band below the braided girdle, which holds threc sSbarkling stones that match the foundation. Should a one-color scheme be chosen for the gown, the HELPS’ FOR Bear Miss Lodewick: {| am only an amateur at dressmak- ing, but with a suggestion from you, | would like to make a sim- ple black sat- in dress. | have 5 yards of inch wide jet banding which | could use as trim- ming. Am 32 years of age, not very stout \ except about the hips. MRS. D. W. This modct is casy to execute. The skirt is plain two-piece with bandin applied. You could bead and om broider a design on the kimono blouse as I have suggested, Lengths of the banding attached to the short sleeve could be effectively caught to a@ harrow wuistband, Dear Miss Lodewick: Do you think an orange chiffon frock would become me for even- ing wear? Am a blonde, twenty years of age. What other color would be pretty for an evening frock? Would black jet brace- lets and earrings be appropriate? Would black slippers and orange stones and fur could tbe employed for the emphatic notes The coiffing of the heud and the garbing of the foot are equally im- portant CC msidet ations in one’s grooming at the tea hour, Harrings of Oriental or eccentrio type which one would hesitate to wear outside the home or with an cedinary cos- tume could he worn with propriety. And the huir may be arranged in any becoming fashion, no matter wow Tantastic or extreme so long as t is coiffed with care. It is effective to have one's slippers harmonize with the gown, and one matron accomplished the result quite cleverly. Her gown was of lacjuer red chiffon combined with che same color velvet brocade on a chiffon foundation, and in order to oring her silver slippers into legitimate rela- tionship, sue used a band of the col ored chiffon to bind her foot. passing il under the arch, and gutheriug it into a buckle on the instep. Another suggestion might be to pass a like band of chiffon or soft satin ubout the back of the foot and buc'le in front, or tie it with tasseled onus. Tassels, by the way, are quite the smartest trimming of afternoon and evening boots. I saw the other eve- ning a pair of black satin slippers with tiny green glass bead tussels dropping at uneven lengths from the ankle strap. They lent a delightful OESIGNS BY MILDRED: LODEWICK. f Aft flick of color to the black chiffon cos tume, Speaking of black costumes reminds ine of a beautiful one I saw at a re cent musicale, worn by a_ white haired matron. It was of chiffon witu jet nail head beads hand-sewn at in- tervals all over the surface, except tiny spaces above and below the draped chiffon girdle. The skirt was lapped on each side to afford panels that jaboted down to points which dropped below the skirt edge. The newest colors fur cyening gowns arc butteréup yellow and violet in a bluish tint that is not so blue as the hydrangea we used last year. The prevailing mode of bobbed hair is the middle parting, but | cannot say that it is as chic as the side part. With bobbed hair I have seen a couple of headdresses which were very like caps binding the forehead, but smali and only covering the top of the head, made of a lattice work of beads ant drooping long bead tassels down each side. THE HOME. DRESSMAKER stockings, or silver slippers and stockings be pretty? Miss R, M. Orange should become you, The jet bracelets and earrings would Le effective but would su ‘st orale slippers and stockings, or silve! Dear Miss Lodewick: ! have near- ly four yards of tan canton crepe. What style would you advise for a dress? Am § ft 6 in. tall and rather thin. | have a brown and green beaded girdle with tassels which | might use with this dress if you advise, Thank- ing you. MARIE L. pieces of brown matching sleeves of the sume would complete a pretty frock, togethce with your beaded girdle. Dear Miss Lodewick: Having been presented with a beaded robe am asking your ad- vice as to how to develop a gown, Am 80 thin that some relief is necessary. The robe is pale pink en a net foundation, round neck Reetangulai seorgette, ~ os wand sleeveless, scalloped lower edge. Am thirty +e years of age, blond, weigh 113 pounds, 5 feet 4 inches tall. MRS. G. You could attach huge squares of pink tulle into the lower haif of the armholes, sway airily, and about the low wuistline you could drape a wirdle of the tulle which could tie in a huge loop and an end that drops nearly to the floor at the side back. Cear Miss Lodewick: Will you kindly offer me advice on a dress which | want to have made for afternoon con- cert piano playing and singing? Am a blonde, hav- ing a plump figure and am twenty - six years old. MRS. V. A. Black satin bod- ice, also girdle, black pleated chifl- fon panels back and front. Wide lengths of darned filet lace drop over the shoulders and form side Panels to skirt. ‘This dress would be effective and dainty. What to Make In an Evening By Ada Newcomb. CRETONNE DOILIES. RETONNE doilies for the chafing C dish supper are prettier than any other’ kind. They help to dress up your table and help it to loo! cheerful and bright. They supply a large portion of the table decoration all by their little lonesome, so that not nearly so many flowers and things need be added to make the meal look charming. Then select your eretonne. But be sure to have the pattern small and dainty. Big flowers and birds and things won't go, hecause when you divide the material into doilies you immediately cut into the pattern and destroy the best part of its effect. Virst the design must be small and dainty, and then the colors must be bright and*suitable to the rest of the colors in your room. After that it is surprising how simple the things ave to make, If you like square doilies best, then cut each of them about twelve inches on each side, and have one about twice that size for the centre of the tuble. Isind them about their edges with a piece of linen braid in the natural color. I say natural color because that will wash with the greatest satis- faction If you are going to do the washing yourself and will be very careful about it, then you can afford to use one of the brightly tinted cot- ton bindings that will help with your color effect. Long doilies are nice for long tables, with a runner to cover the table through the centve. They can be cut tnd bound in the same way, Then, | tubles, you must niutke round doilics and it is casy to find pattern for them by turning a dinn plate upside down and ad line around its edge to show i) where to cut the material, And do try to take hand stitcuecs in the bindings. Of course, the m: chine does the work more quickly, but it is not nearly so good looking, nor does it appear as though you have taken any great amount of pride in the fixings for your home, Hand stitches carry a wonderful effect of care and beauty with them even if they are never noticed as anything particular. Besides you will like them s much better yvourecif,. the round “awin ’