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The The Sloping Shoulder Line Shoulders. ©f articles for women readers of The Evening World, is assoctate editor of “Le Bon Ton,” editor of the interior decoration department of “Woman's Home Companion,” and a recognized @uthority on women’s fashions. By Margery Wells. Conaright. 1021, by tbe Prem Publishing Co. Pre ET hie ‘Now York vening World.) HE girl with shoulders that droop stands out most particu- lagly as an individual type $n this modern day. If sho has any thought of making her clothes look as though they re- motely belonged to her, then she has before her the task of studying dili- gently that line along her neck and shoulder, Because her type diverges from the usually accepted figure of the day, she is eminently more inter- esting as an individual, But In order to make her personality effective she has to spend valuable moments of at- tention upon that shoulder line. It is from the shoulder that all tha frocks take thelr cue to hang ‘prop erly. All of the modern dresses are those which swing from that point, the waistline being a. mera detail on the downward path. Now look at the shoulder subject for a moment. If a square shouldered frock is placed upon a sloping shouldered girl the result is something fiendish to con- template. The lines that should fall horizontally without any compromise then droop with a sort of inward curve toward the centre of the frock. This is anything but beautiful—any- thing twit what it was meant to be, and if the designer of that gown should meet it walking abroad posed upon sloping shoulders, she would be Hable to a fainting fit at once. Noth- ing can so wreck the art of her original intentions 9s this attempted union of straight nes and sloping lines. . Many times the matter of adjust'n> @ equare-shouldered dress to shoul- ders of te opposite inclination is ply accomplished. The taking in of a seam often does the trick impercept- Sbly well. ready-made clothes when looks But there are times with this much like an On tho tailored the changing of = shoulder lir nts a problem a'~ most unsolvable, for immediately upow the changing of the shoulder line the sleeve is thrown out of gear and the whole coat must practically be torn to pieces in order to make one seain harmon‘ze with the next one. Ona softer dress with less conspicuous seamings the adjustrent is not 8» Alfficult. Beware—you of the sloping shoul- ders—of the saleswoman who pats your shoulders lovingly and assures you that the fit is perfect. She knows What the alteration charges would be nd how the alteration “hand” would Aerate her for wishing the job in that ‘direction, So, she has an inborn fac- ulty for overlooking a wrong hang in that particular and she tries instinc~ tively to draw your attention to other and less harassing matters. The trimming of the gleeves offers an easy side track or the fit of the girdle in the back. ‘But you, having made up your mind to notice the evils growing out of that drooping shoulder of yours, will blast ail her hopes of seliing the wrong thing to the wrong person when you polnt knowingly to those inward slanting wrinkles which Were not meant to be there. You will have an easier time with your dressing if you have your dresses and your su'ts made to order. Perhaps they will be a little more ex- pensive, and certainly you will be put to a lot of extra trouble, but it will pay you In the long run. You will ever have that poor, uncared-for feeling that psychically results from the wrongly ‘iting shoulder line. There is nothing under the sun which can give you a more forlorn feeling and there are many girls who just naturally have this feeling without mowing they have !t, und especially without. knowing that it is just a badly fitting shoulder line that gives it to them. ‘This sounds like a wild statement and many would wcoff at it—expe- cially men. As though a simple thing like a shoulder seam could make all that difference in a life! But just for fun look at any man who has un- wittingly placed a coat with square ghoulders on his own sloping ones, and if you have ever seen a more ~pitiful object then I should like to Brow about it Hla whole nature weems to droop along witb that illy fitting line The drooping shoulder is never more picturesqueiy clad than when wrapped about with a cape, ince this ia a season of cap you are right in the swing: cape in the picture. ‘grace is a thing that is notice- but it would not bo nearly $0 lovely on any moro athletically square shoulders. It takes that slant from the neck down to ewing a cape to its very best advanta And you will know this to be eo if once you start to =amine the capes that pass you ‘on the street. This cape is one of the knitted ones that are so smart and so warm and go “comfy.” It is trimmed with an- gora knitted material and the fum- hess of it, as well as its line, {8 vastly becoming to the girl of the lines that ‘are now discussing. WEfats, too. are important to the sloping shouldered girl, for if they lattempt to contradict her inherited jines in any way then they just suc- the alteration too pr es Homel And the Handsome Husband—the First of Sophie Irene Lozb’s New Articles — Watch for It on This Page Next Monday. HRM RE MARE The Girl Wit IS AT HER BEST IN THIS SEASON OF BECOMING CAPES ful When Decked in Soft Fichus and Falling Frills About the Neck and Throat and Evening Frocks That Fall Off the y Wife-- raf thd Is Most Beauti- ceed in making a mess of her whole appeatanee, even though the rest of her costume may be thought out with the utmost care. ‘The hat in the picture droops ple- turesquely, as though it was attracte! by the natural line of the shoulders underneath it. In other words, by its gracefully curving line it draws atten- tion to the fine points of the droop of the shoulders. The two curve to- gether in perfect harmony. Now ‘f this hat turned up all around or on either side the effect would be qui incongrtious and not nearly so flat tering to a pretty face. The sloping shoulder line is the loping S Margery Wells Advises Over a Drooping Shoulder a Velvet Picture Hat Curves in Complete Harmony, as the Above Photograph Shows. Capes Are Pre-eminently Fitted for the Sloping Shoulder Line, as Illustrated in the Photograph at the Right. « by of the S Whole Effect of Costume. Victorian line. It is most beautiful when decked in soft fichus and fall- ing frills about the neck and throat. These things are its own tri char- acter: For evening the sloping shoul- dered girl can wear those frocks which have a tendency to fall off the shoulders, showing that lovely droop- ing curve most advantageously. These dresses are called “trying,” but not for her. They offer her a golden op- portunity to shine where others fall. Next Tue Miss Wells will ex- plain how the girl with SQUARE SHOULDERS can dress most be- comingly. Specially posed photo- graphs will illustrate her article. WUE = Heart of a Girl i By Caroline Crawford Copsright, 1921, by the Press Publishing Co. Which Man Will Peggy siness ax m stenograph: her own age, her senior. and this story ‘to-day—every instalment a new story of @ typical New York girl. rv, Her heart is on tw Hi The oftice’ opens new experiences, (Tee New York Evening World.) Choose for a Husband? Possy Dayton, eighteen, has = ‘a betwei lovers ills Townley,, a well-to-do bach re ee rere 8 new lovers. reading episode in Peasy’ ‘attains, NEW FRIENDS. ‘ARION MINTON, her cousin Tom, and his friend Bill Carver called to take Peggy to the movies just as she had taken a last peek at herself in her new cherry- colored hat with its monkey fur trimmings. “IT feel pers fectly fiendish to- night in this gay hat,” whispered Peggy to Marion after the introductions were over, “look out for me “You look perfectly ripping,” Te- piled Marion flatteringly. As Peggy glanced at Tom Minton she thought Marion ought to flatter her a bit for asking her to go out with this tall, lanky youth with eed hair, Bill Carver was biond and rather imposing but Peggy knew that, of course, Tom would be wished upon her since he was Marion's cousin and cousins are not in the habit of pairing off. “Bill and I are from Chicago,” vol- unteered Tom as they started to walk from 8ist Street, Washington Heights, down to the theatre they were to see a semi. and picture performance. “We're here for a business firm, and, take it from me, New York is a great town.” For several blocks he raved about New York and its wonders, from the Woolworth Building to the Hall of Fame, which he had just visited. Pegsy tripped along beside him and watched Marion and Bill Carver with Tom Minton was the type of man she despised. He was awkward, ego- tistical and slangy. Bill Carver was a good dresser, polished and cour- teous. In the theatre Bill Carver arranged it so that he sat between Marion and Peggy. Several of the latter's keen remarks attracted his attention, and presently Peggy and Bill did all the whispering and the laughing, while the two cousins sat alone and de- jected, “We ought to be ashamed of our- selves," whispered Bill. “You jolly old Tom along for a few seconds ant I'll cheer up Marion.’ But presently their heads were to- gether again and all the fun of the evening seemed to be centred about them. Going home they stopped in an ice cream parlor, and there, over maple nut sundaes, Peggy and Bill abandoned, all efforts to entertain Marion and Tom Minton and made their fun and repartee a tete-a-tete affair, Peasy was half surprised at her- self, but every time she looked at Tom Minton she felt reassured that after all she was justified in paying attention to young Carver. “If Marion Minton thinks she can wish her great, lumbering cousin upon me for a who!e evening while she enjoys the company of a good-looking, jolly young man, I'll show her a thing or two,” thought Pegey. “After all, that old saying about ‘All's fair in love and war’ is true.” At the thought of love Peggy's heart beat just a trifle faster. This wasn't love. Of course she didn't care for this Bill Carver. What would Harrison Townley or Billy Bracton think of her ‘f they could see her In her gay ved hat laughing and cutting up with this out-of-town man? She knew Billy would be jenl- eH hou RH AH OME TO HES Iders” Hat to Be Most Becoming Should Droop as Ane. Attracted by the Natural Line oulders—Wron Hat May Spoil a Carefully Thought-Out ous, but she could see Townley’s Rendacce features suppressing a smile, Going home Bill and Peggy saun- tered along while Marion and Tom led the way in front. ‘Tom was good natured and tried to make the best of matters but Marioa was quite out of spirits and did not fail to show it “Sunday night is my last night in town; may I call?” asked Carver. Peggy nodded assent. “If you hadn't wora your monkey fur hat perhaps you wouldn't have been quite so silly," whispered Marion. “T told you to look out for me," laughed Marion as she disappeared in tho hall way of her apartinent (To-Morrow—A Ride on the Bus.) SRHH MRR H RR RRR E REE RE RENEE HM RMON RH RK EE *a Dressings for the Turkey =| Copyright, 1921, by the Press Publishing Co, PLAIN STUFFING. E loaf stale bread, Trim off crust and break into inch cubes. Pour over it one pint hot milk, stir unt!l soft and smooth, then add a well beaten egg, reason with popper, salt, poultry seasoning and one tablespoon melted butter. If a dry dressing is preferred mix four level cups fine bread crumbs with half a cup of melted butter, one egg, salt, pepper and poultry seasoning to taste, OYSTER DRESSING. Chop one quart oysters, or they can be used whole. four cupfuls bread crunybs, one teaspoon finely chopped celery, the drained oysters, pepper to taste, one tablespoonful chopped parsley, one tablespoonful melted butter and a cup of oyster Uquor, ? (Tho New York Evening World.) CHESTNUT DRESSING. One pint chestnuts, make a cut In each with a sharp knife, cover with cold water and when they reach boil- ing point let boll two minutes. Drain and put into pan with a little butter, shake over fire; the shell and skin can then be easily removed, Chop the nuts, add a large cupful grated bread crumbs, four tablespoonfuls butter (melted), one tablespoonful shredded parsley, one-half teaspoonful poultry seasoning, salt and pepper to taste. If necessary, add hot water. SAUSAGE DRESSING. After soaking and squeezing out sufficient bread to stuff a turkey, add half a pound sausage meat, | one egg (well beaten), one tablespoontul chopped parsiey, a dash of nutmeg and salt, pepper and onion juice to taste, ‘ ec ee ea HE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 19, ou x NE 3 Are You ‘Beat Tt ! s | HAVE INVITED TEN OF THE FAN ICY FoR, THANKSGIVING DINNER. AND FATHER IS GOING TO INVITE THE OTHER, THREE TH HIS HOUSE deteeent ge ES FIVE Sure! T'S PLENTY | HAVE INVITED ONLY THE VEGETARIAN MEMBERS OF THE FAMILY Then You'll Be Interested in Reading Betty Vincent’s Solutions of Lovers’ Problems, H IN. URKEY FoR THAT MOB | in Love? —This Pa Re ANd GNLY REEON FATHER 2 | POUND bel 66 HY, hello, Gus! I haven't seen you for ages!" cried Mr. Jarr, as he encountered the genlal ex-proprietor of the de- funct cafe on the corner. “Where have you been and what have you been doing Gee, 1 wish John Bar- leycorn and you would come back! We miss the old place! Why, to show how dead things are, do you know there an undertaking establishment in th place where you had your old man trap!" “sure, I know that,” replied Gus. “Didn't 'I rent the place to Berry, tae undertaker? A real estater 1 am on the side line, but now I'm glad it is Prohibition. Before, when 1 run & liquor store 1 hardly made anything, but now I've been a bootlegger, and, how the money rolla in!" ave been Nieidy peddling asked Mr. Jarr. Gus replied. “Listen. r about how Wincent boat got raided and of case goods was Astor's seventy found on It? bottles Well, that’s I'm like. I got pinched, too, and L got an affer- davit to prove it!” And he proudly displayed a warrant b d been served on him. e it quite easy,” remarked you e 1 do!" sald Gus. “I've been worrying when I'd it, and now [ got it, and I don't haye to worry no mo Jes'des, it aln't my fault, f didn't do nothing to get the afferdavit, It was my customers. I was selling to them quivtiy in my real estars office, and they got too nolsy, At least one of them did, and the nelgh- bors complain “Who was it got you in the jam? Not one of the old bunch, I hope!" said Mr. Jarr, “Yes, and no," Gua explained. “It was that rich old feller who used to come once ‘n a while when he was on a spree to my old liquor store and was sy stingy that he'd hang me up for a pint of wine and never treat nobody and then make euch a noise he'd drive my good customers out.” “What did you sell to such a pest for then, especially if you were run- ning a blind tiger?” asked Mr, Jarr. “Tigers ain't blind; look how Tam- many wins,” Gus replied. “Anyway, how can I put a rich feller out that's got a lot of money? You can’t insult rich fellers with money and put them out. They got too much influence and aiways belongs to them Law and Order so ues And I know I'd get pinched when he comes into my real estate office to raise a row beonuse he sald I axed too much for what he bought from me on credit." “Well, ff you knew you were go'ng to get into trouble on account of a padentacaeacan repeat: SGM MO AHO HM ORI OH ROH OTH OI E The Jarr Family _| Courtship and Marriage | j By Roy L. McCardell Copyright, 1921, by The Press Publishing Co. (Tho New York Ereaing World). nulsane: like him, rich or p don't’ deserve any sympath Jarr declared. "I don't want no sympth: “It is in the papers I am pinche and that's a good advertisement. Suppose 1 get fined, ain't 1 got plenty ot money to pay the fine? Do I have to pay any license now, do I have to buy tickets and things, do I have to smear anybody? No!" And Gua drew from his Inside pocket a roll of bills of astonishingly large denominations. “Did I ever had a Wad like this when I run a re- spectable liquor store on the corner?” he asked. “No,” he added, “I'm for reforn They used to say saloons kept men out of the home, now the suloons has « into the homes, and it pays better.” “Speaking of “ee EAR Mise Vincent: | ama love with a girl two y: my junior. Judging from the way she acts she does not care for me. What must | do in order to receive hor attentions? Last week | od her to go to a show with me and she replied she did not care to go out with any of her friends in her district. What do you think of her? M. K." 1 am afraid you will have to take this young woman at her word, persist in trying to see her after she has expressed her idea of going with some one in another locality would ba futile. Do not bob up for three of four weoks and then try your luck again, home brew?” asked Mr. Jar, “Sure,” said Gus, “home brew only “Dear Miss Vincent: | h: makes fellers thoisty for the real appointment about the first of stuff.” this month with a sailor boy with “It's all very reprehensible,” said whom | have been corresponding, Mr, Jarr solemnly. “By the way, what but | did not keep it. He has left do you charge by the quart or case, New York for about six months, good etuff?” and | would like to know if it lei i CHAD oon * Maxims °' Modern Maid : By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Coprrtent, 1021, by the Press Publisning Co, (The New York Bening World) A husband nowadays seems to last a woman no longer thana hat—and the trouble is that she can never be sure if the new one will suit her even as well as the old. N reviewing a past love affair, a woman wonders, with a shiver, “How | could I ever have cared for him?" A man reflects, with a smirk, “Well, she certainly was crazy about me!” A young man dreams of melting some female iceberg with the lava of his love, but as he grows older he realizes that a lot of time may be saved it no melting is necessary. We hear less than formerly about self-determination, but, judging by the number of anti-fat contests, the cause of sylph-determination has plenty of devoted adherents, Home Is a yastly overestimated spot—the supplies are forever giving out, the service is Ukewise, and mother's pocketbook !s ditto. What most of us mean by “forgiveness” is merely the suspended sentence. When a man decides to ring down the curtain on a love affair, the least he can do ts to permit the herolne of the drama to stage an effective last act. » Stealing a ktss from this season's flapper {8 about aa much of an ad- venture 48 taking the poster some one hands you op the sidewalk, In love, the eternal question of woman {a,“Why?" Of man, “Why not?” By Betty Vincent Copyright. 1921, by the Hress Publishing Co, CHM ABE A (The New York Evening World.) would be correct tor me to write and apologize to him, “EVELYN.” As a matter of courtesy and good etiquette you owe an apology to this young man, “Dear Miss Vincent: Through friends | met a young man whom 1 liked very much two years ago. The young man lives out of town, but called fow eveniny go when | was not at ho here any way | could meet him? Would it be roper to send him an invitation lor some evening? J. 8. F.” Since you were not at home you owe him a letter tefing him you were sorry to have missed him. It would then be perfectly conventional for you to set an evening for him to “Dear Miss Vince On Sun- day | y told me not to call on Thureday instead of Wednesday evening, when she could get theatre tickets for us at half price, Later | called her up to make a date for Wednesday and she told me she had an ap- pointment. Don't you think she should have told me this the firet place? ANXIOUS.” Do not allow yourself to become critica or Jealous, Unless you notice « marked change in her attitude to- ward you I would not worry about ber change of programme, “Dear Miss Vincent: | have known a pint for the past four montha, uring this time we have become the best of friends, | know the finances of this giri and | have noticed that her purse is very gid and torn, Would it be proper for me to buy her a new one ee for mere friendehip’s sake J.T: It seems to me this would be most unwise. I am afraid you would hurt the young woman's feelings. Better wait until Christmas. Better a torn gue than a breach in your friend- ship. “Dear Mise Vincent: | am « irl, nineteen, and have been go- Ing with @ young man, twenty, for the | six months, His Pecple do not like me. Reoently @ geome to have listened to them and | notice hig affection has sealed, What do you jee? If the young man is not strong enough to etand up for the girl he likes I would eliminate him, A young man who fs influenced by his people will always cling to them and never make the proper husband or suitor, « Momeni oe