The evening world. Newspaper, November 12, 1921, Page 11

She Can Use Orange, Red, Green, Pink, and White and Black in Combination. ! But Must Beware of Taupes, Light Colors and Pastel Shades—All Fatal Errors. A High Waistline Offers Its Own Problems to the Girl Who'd Dress Becomingly—Miss Wells Solves Them—-This Page Next Tuesday TETRIS THE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 1921. Margery Wells } Advises What the “Brunett » Ss ould Wea COLOR IN CLOTHES MUST BE HER MAJOR CONSIDERATION | With Dark Brown Hair and*Eyes, Browns and Tans Are Vastly Becaming. Pearls Are a Friendly Ornamentation, and Jet Fans Are Effective for Evening Wear. Sixth, in a Series of Special Articles With Photographs Posed by Selected Fashion Models Margery Wells, writer of this series of articles for women readers of The Evening World, 4s associate editor of , “La Bon Ton,” editor of the interior “decoration department of “Woman's { Home Companion,” and a recognised authority on women’s fashions, By Margery Wells. mri JE Yat a nt HB girl whose coloring {s dom- tnantly of the brunette type has in herself an inspiration for dressing. Ail she has to do 1s to say to her- self: “Now, look here, my chief beauty ts the coloring that is natural- ty mine. “Now I shall spend my clothes thoyghts entirely upon the subject of which are my complement- ary colors, which are the ones that subdue the drilliancy of my coloring, and which are the ones that bring it out and make it shout.” For not all beholders are sturdy mough to stand the flamboyancy of color which @ brunette dressed in bright colors sends forth, To be sure, she 1s harmontously clad. But there are so many people she meets whose souls are accustomed to the grays and browns of life. It is they who will shade their eyes with their hands when she appears in red or jade green and beg’ her to be more fender with thelr feelings. Then there are those friends and chance acquaintances who will thank her for the uplift that her brilliancy of coir has brought them. But she must be Careful to attune her dressing to the company she keeps, to the sort of business in which she te engaged, and to the activities which her day gen- erally includes, Color in clothes, then, must be the,major consideration of the girf who is fortunate enough to be able to oclai herself with the brunette type—of the girl whose ekin is dark, whose hair is also dark and whose eyes are either brown or black in coloring, It {8 a common fallacy that a dark girl cannot wear black But this is really @ grave mistake when so in- clusively stated. There are dark girls, to be eure, who must keep re- Ugtously away from black. But usu- ally any one of them can wear it with better effect than most of her sisters {¢ she only ts careful to show enough kin to supply the note of contrast ‘This does not mean that her day Gresses must be unnecessarily low, but it does mean that the shaping of their neck and sleeve tines should be @o arranged as to supply that con- trast Just mentioned. One of the pictures with this article hows a black dress artfully arranged tm order to be becoming to.the bru- Dette. fts trimming and the cut crystal beads that hang for a necklace about the neck. And the design illuetrates another subtle color point for the @ark girl, Add « touch of brilliancy ef color to your black or dark biue frocks, but let that color be re- strained. Use it in one brilliant spot tn order to squeeze from it ite true value. ‘Do not overdo the color ac- eent or your efforts will be worse han wasted. (Pearts for the dark-haired girl (they are seen in two of the photo- graphs), are & wonderfully friendly eraamentation. Again, they are that contrasting siement that makes her beauty so resplendent And. in the ploture of the short-haired brunette, you see @ jet fan held close beside her face. It is in darker tones with brilliant high lights, than which there ig nothing more effective for evening ‘weer. You who are dark, when delving fmta. the intricacies of this color prob- lem, must romember that these are fhe colors that euit you best: Orange is good, when there le Not too vast a quantity of It on any one gown, or if the orange gown Is relieved by the addition ef eene other colon Red and green are fatal for supplying attractiveness. Brilliant pinks and bluee with deep tones in them (though not pecially dark blues) are tones which are flatteringly friendly to he dark-haired and, dark-skinned person, ‘White is good, too, for the dark girl, @epecially a creamy or an oystor white, And combinations of black and white are one of those fool proof combinations in which she ts privi- teged to revel to her heart's content. But beware, Mise Frunette, of thes enlively tones, whoh are not for you tm thie Kifer ‘Teupes are your most fate! ‘ ‘They seem to absorb afi It ts all black save for the mparkie of the jet beads that make LEFT—A Study in Blacks for the Black Haired Girl CENTRE—The Long-Waisted Crepe Dress in Dark Orchid, for the Girl of Dark Coloring. RIGHT—Pearl Beads and a Jet Fan Make Simple Orna- mentation for a Brunette’s Evening Frock. of your finest points and throw Into direct relief your worst ones, Light colora and paste! shades are pretty poor against the vitality of your eepecial type of coloring. They are too faint and frall for all your vividness. For the girl whose hair ts really dark brown and whose eyes are of the same tone browns in ‘all shades are vastly becoming. She can wear tana, too. And for all dark girls gray {s @ youthful and lovely color for them to wear from time to time, either for trimmings or for whole frocks made in that tone. ‘The Mttle evening frock in the pio- ture {8 of a deep orchid tone, with steel and crystal beads used for an embrold decoration, Then an orchid tn more colors of that shade fs fustefied at the waistline just for the purpose of adding more brightness of color to a type that cun afford to display it fearlessly. The material ts crepe in its heaviest quality, and the draping and the beaded embroidery give it that added weight which Is particularly in unison with the usual sturdiness of character in the dark girl's type. She wants nothing airy, fairy. She wants things which, while altogether graceful, are still substan- tial in effec: For the brunette—rather be too vivid than too dull, when It comes to @ matter of color. But for an ideal choose that happy medium which will make you just flashing enough but never startling in the color feeling you #end forth into a room full of company, Next Tuesday Mise Wells will dis- cuss the probleme of the GIRL WITH A HIGH WAISTLINE. Specially sed photographs will accompany the articles, CRIM MRITHD Maxims faM By Marguerite Moocoers Marshall Coprrigm, LOT], by the Press Publishing Co. TETHER HTRTE RTE TICK odern Maid | qu or tas pens me A woman cheats at bridge, a man cheats at love—and each ts probably shocked by practices. the other’s unsportsmanlike NE reason why so many men are married for their money {= because the self-satisfied dears simply cannot believe in the possibility of such a thing. suaded, pale into 1) The attractions of their ignificance beside their personal charms! wealth, they are per- Romantic males make a song of the “One Woman”; realistic, cautious and thrifty lovers add the footnote, “one at a time!” Occasionally there is a heart which makes a full meal of first love; but, in most cases, it is the Aore d'oeuvres of the feast to come. Matoh-making mammas used to angle for the handtest prince, duke or rich soap manufacturer; to-day fond papas are inclining to the opinion that the greatest catch in the matrimonial market is a gentlemanly boot- legger, or, perchance, a revenue agent. Two rivals for & woman's love would be ashamed to use the muddy reoriminations exchanged by two candidates for the same political Job— but, then, the latter are fighting for a REAL prize! In a lovers’ quarrel, the girl's declaration that she will never forgive the man is the first step toward complete reconciliation, Memories of past love are the fallen leaves of the heart: even if care- fully treasured they soon crumble into dust, so they may as well be trod- den under foot in the first place, People who live with glass husbands ought not to throw stones, paRIRiee aE $e Be TT TTT HT Glimpses Into N. Y. Shops By Emilie Hoffman Core, evi York Brean Wort) CHRISTMAS tone ts beginning A to pervade the shops and the aisle tables are offering tempt- ing displays to the early Christmas shopper. Practical gifts put up in neat boxes are more in evidence than ever before, Men's ties look ever 60 much better in a box, and women prefer to buy them that way. Neckwear ts much more attractive in boxes, By the way, the very new- est things in collars are offered among these suggested gifts. There are the popular Puritan collars and the new flaring cuffs. ‘The color ef- fects that are now becoming such favorites are prominent. The color is introduced as bias folds, pipings or embroidery. A white tucked collar and cuff set has folds of nayy organdy. Another set In white crepe has silk stripes In blue, orchid and gold, Broadcloth sets are embroid- ered tn bright colors, Then there are attractive guimpes and vestees in net, linen, &c. There are Dutch collare and cuffs in leather, These are in demand, and come in the pre- vailing colors. Those in red leather look smart on black and navy dresses, and those of kid in white or the pastel shades are decidedly pretty, ‘ Hoslery te also being displayed tn boxes for gifts. Then most of the shops have been having special sales in stockings, possibly as an induce- ment to Christmas shoppers. These sales are not confined to silk hoslery, but include the wool stockings that have become popular during the past few winters. For the women who do not care for the heavy heather wool there are medium or even Nght weights. One shop i# showing thirty shades in these all-wool Eng- lsh hose in plain color and heathers, and they are marked $3.9. Hand- some colorings are @ feature of these wool hose and the hemstitehed her- ringbone ribbed stockings in the brown or purple tweed mixtures are really beautiful In silk stockings the black seem to be mostly In de mand, probably because the black shoea are now tn first favor. Women who do not tke the spangled robes are mubstituting the short chemise corsage !n_ spangies and wearing this with a full skirt of lace, By the way, the new spangled robes have fuller skirts and are longer than we have aren them tn several seasons. Handsome robes In the fuchsia ‘and nasturtium shades are hetng offered. Other popular colors are the jades, coppers and moonlights, If {!t depended upon beauty alone, a selection would be a aiMcult” matter. With the coming of cold weather there {s an increasing oall for gloves, Longer wrists are a new fashion note, and while the gauntlet glove Is a favorite for general wear there is a dressy king kid glove in the long wrist style with three tab fasteners which {s new, and then there are the embroidered effects that can now be had even in the chamois susdes, Now that gloves are again fashionable they will be popu- lar as Christmast gifts. They are appearing in constantl: Increasing numbers at evening funetions, #0 there ts a wide se‘ectfon tn gloves for the Christmas shopper, To make {t a really beautiful’ gift, the gloves should be presented in one of those love boxes that ara now being of- ‘ered in some of the shops for just this purpose, ‘ THE LATEST Boot ! FIFTY CENTS CASH THE LATEST Book ! ONLY THIRTY & LATEST OOK ! ONLY TEN CENTS The bse, Which Man Will Peggy ANOTHER DAY HE next morning after Townley’a T proposal Peggy awoke with a wong on her lips It was good to be elghteen, good to have received her first proposal, good to be alive and young and - strong, She kissed Pekingese Sing- Hi good morning, threw the window wide open and inhaled the crisp, invigorating fall air, Life seemed so full, wo abeolutely cormmlete ‘The fact that Townley had deciared his love for her but left her free to go about with young people made her extremely happy. As she atood look- ing out at the tal apartment houses across the street his love seamed un usually big and broad. Could she ever hope to attain a love as fine and colossal? Only time could tell, Meau whtle she would test her own heart. She would run about with Billy and with @ crowd of young friends That morning at business things seemed as dull as ever. Richardson gave her but (wo letters in dictatfon while Miss Smith did all the tmpor- tant work. Although Peggy still felt happy and full of the Joy of life ane wondered if this was the best business environment for her. She wanted t ve busy all the Ume. To sit and watt half a day for one or two letters was not her idea of being @ business ir When her employer and Miss Smith had gone to luncheon Dick Richard- son came ito the office and taking his uncle's chair gave her am tm! tion of the old cha. 22 “Now, Miss Dayton, if you wilh draw up your chair,” he began, “ll just dictate a few lines. Please n the punctuation as I give it an you are in doubt of how @ word In spelled let me know.” Peeey drew on her gloves started for the door, She rem bored how this young man had placed his hand over hers just the day be fore and she intended to snub him from thence on. But young Richardson was not to tenored, and . OTHE HOT ESTHET OH IL 2 SG Heart ofa Girl | By Caroline Crawford Copyright, 1921, by the Prem Publishing Co, (The New York venting World.) it Choose for a Husband? AT BUSINESS. “See here, Miss Pegsy Dayton,” he sald, going to the door and taking hold of the knob, “you can't treat me this way. I came, in here to be pleasant and to invite you to lunch- eon, You know my uncle, and there is no reason in the world why we shouldn't be friends, ‘There's « cute Little tearoom Just a few doors from here, or we could even elip up to Hiroadway and toddle @ bit. You have an hour, you know,” “Thank you, Mr. Richardson,” smiled Peggy, “but I have an engage- ment” Tossing her head in the air sho tripped out of the office and aallied o mest Billy. Hie tall, boyian befming face locked ¢s- \d to her after the smirk- tng, Insincere face of the young man she had just left. "U'm going to see Marton Minton e thought, “and t vut office pests.” She's had a xperiences, Cll wager there ffice in this city that tua't ® who look Like collar ad know « thing Billy chose the same pastry stiop for their luncheon was convenient and gave therm me for a half hour's walk. But ‘y's day was not to be aa dright as it began. She had often noticed that the Jays sho started out happy and ful something un foresven occurred to worry her. On the other hand, sometimes when a lay began all wrong, during the fore noon or evening soma surprise or easant experience came to her, No nooner had she and Billy seated able than. tw took @ table 1 The tallest a pronounced b 1 most bewttchingly to ne Rreeting highly h to PB a ls 4 that this strange exchanged several ft When they we announced that ing woman Moe, "he's the quick bullding,” he proudly e street Billy de ne but as she entered the t made up her mind ehe would visit Marion Min- ton that evening and discuss not only the office pest but whether a girl ts justified in being jealo To-morrow—An Exchange of Cen- idences. Guide Book to Women Did You Know That There Is One? You Will Learn All About It When You Read This Page Néxt Monday rea Pubttan Sek Erealne World), The Jarr Family | By Roy L. Cuprcight, 190, by the Prem Pubiishing HE social season was on and Mra, Stryver was giving her first select musicale for char- ity. Of course, the Jarre were there, Mr. Jarr being dragged to it in cor- rect evening attire of pre-war days. First event, “The Three Grena- diers,” Signor Spargalo and accom- panist. The accompanist was a bony blond lady. She turned the piano stool for some six or seven Mexican revolutions, end then struck a note —"plink!” < Signor Spargalo, & big, dark, fat man with @ little bunch of whiskers on his chin and a heavy horseshoe mustache that had been recently shined, gave a start as though he had been stabbed. “If the piano is the least bit out of : if it ts not at concert pitch, Spargalo will not sing!” Mrs, Jarr whispered to her husband tensely. “He needn't on my account,” pered back “Anywi Mr 7, 1 . Him eal trade 1s piano tuning, and he'll be here to- morrow to do It for a ten spot.” The singer lietened to another note being struck, gave a convulsive shud- der, but didn’t renege. He threw back Do ou? Know § Be Covrright. 1811, my the Pree Pubitening = Time New York trenine World) QUESTIONS. 1, On what lake other than the Great Lakes, did the Americans win @ great naval victory In 1814? a What is the firet word In the pe Constitution of the of what cen- {ODT beginnin, tury wae Australia di 4. Which Btate the fetal area of land under irriga- tion 5. How many cards are there In a« pack of playing cards, not counting the joker? 6. What are: the spots on a playing 8 What ie ¢ Cascade Range 9. In what originally dom 10, What large city the foot of Mount Et ANBWE 1, Champlain; 3, 4, seven- teenth;’ 4, Colorado; 5, fifty-two; 6, pipe; 1, neck Mount Shasta; 8, Deyot; 10, McCardell On (The Mew Tock Brening Word.) his head and commenced to bellow. When he finally pau it was safe to gui for: the time being, polite clapping of hands and ert “Encore!"—pronounced “ongkor! Rut the Signor only shrugged bis shoulders. “Non, non, eet is impos.” he said. Consternation was on all faces ex - cept Mr. Jarr’s, and then the bon) blond accompanist arose and spoke in @ whisper to the agitated Mrx Stryver. “On, dear!” whimpered Mra. Stry ver to Mrs. Jarr, “Signor Spargal: says he won't sing any more-tiil be gets his bete nolr! “You mean pour botr, his money Bete noir means something like hin eetf—bleck beast,” Mra. Jarr ex plained. “He should holler ‘more mort! meaning more mortar: ['ll bet he used to be a hod ba A said Mr. Jarr. p quiet!” warned Mrw. Dut she waa thoroughly enjoy! self, Then she turned to M ver and eaid, “I suppose it’ tistic temperament? *‘{ should call {t the business in stinet,” murmured Mr. Jarr. “This contretemps has occurred before,” remarked Mes. Pelgrave Puf- fer, the noted society writer, joining hh rtists are the 5 gnor Spargalo knew well this was a benefit musicale for ‘Our Feathered Friends” the Bungalow Colony for Homeless Swal Jarr, her- ar- ; lows.” “Sounds like bootleg «tuff—homeless swallows,” remarked Mr. Jarr. But Mra. Stryver raised her voice in pro- “I suppose I will have to pay to pay for ‘No, you have enough, | all contribute again,” said Mrs, Jarr, out ot te kindness of her heart for a wealthy friend. “I am arteest, no getta da mun, no seenga da song!” declared the scowl- ‘ng §Sparga!: relapsing French to his Italian acoen' spoke all languages brokenly, even’ broken English. Go the hat was sent round, and Mr Jerr, having only $5, passed it uy ond no ghange. ee are not going, Signore sonal Mrs. Stryver, r the tone got his money and had bellowed tr more ballads in other tongues * ours or his, ea. ee T get somain tine wa! r. “This mustoale fy Feathered Friends,” rene Pa: iy, “out Pi bet MT natevers his eee carrier's vader-~ from his § i. For he