The evening world. Newspaper, August 16, 1919, Page 9

Want Clothing Less Costly? ' Then, My Lady of Fashion, You'll Have to Standardize ' («So Long as the Woman Shopper Demands the Last Degree of Chameleon Fashion,” Says Publisher Fairchild of Women’s Wear, “So Long Will Prices Be Necessarily High Under the Present Condi- ‘tions of Labor and Material.” , By Zoe Beckley Coprrtght, 1919, ty The Prise Publishing Co. (The New ‘York Bvening World, © ~ H* much are clothes going to cost in the fad anyhow? First we “‘No Matter How read ® paragraph warning us to stock our cellare—I mean our wardrobes—with as goodly @ hoard of boots and bonnets, suits find stockings, as our purse permits, against the day the profiteer once / (pore rewrites the price tag. Next morning appears the cheering tale that shoes will take a tumble. And wool is going down. ‘Thert we learn that up in the New England fabric mills the hands are refusing to work more than three days « week, which must raise the cost of clothing still another notch. Follows President Wilson's meq sage urging pro@uction, and once more we see a gleam of hope for our flattened pocketbooks, Sifting it all down, what's going to happen? How far will onr dollar go? “If I know the answer,” exclaimed A. B. Fair- child, one of the publishers of Women’s Wear, “about a million manufacturers and dealers in wearables d tote me round on their shoulders as the hero and prophet of the r, |. “Personally, I feet that the zenith | has boon reached. ‘There never has | Dotan’t Jobn want FEIR to be dreased | ‘a been so complex a situation mm labor,| as weil as that Tarrarra woman? fx manufacture and in marketing as| John does. Of course, of course— ow exists, But the workers and the | there, there! And here’s some money. proprictors are getting together. Co- | Now, {tta wifey, go right out and buy bperation and friendly relations are | herself some pretty-pretties, just like becoming more and more the rule. Mrs. Tarrarra—nicer, even, John) “If the high wages now earned by| wants his itta wifey to be the best; bor do not cause it to shirk both| dressed woman on the block. $ix-day week and quality of pro-| John finds the bankro! somewhere, fuction, there should be a full market | somehow, and the retailer emilles ana fair prices, In other words, tf/evon as the Cheshire cat. poly the factdry people will continue| There are women, of course, lots bo take af interest In p good] of them, who are not John’s wife gruff, and in working steadily, the | Women who are not given over body manufecturers will not have to/and soul to the passion for “style” eharge so much for risk. Mr. Fafrchild cites an ineident to “But there are other ifs. If women, | illustrate: “A high-grade department store in New York,” says he “advertised a sale of suits ind drenses the other day ‘at $%5 and $9. Wewent'up several of bpormoug chances are taken of &| our wonieh Sxperorto see what these pertain style. if it goes well, lmuge | garments really were. They reported pales apd profits result. 32 not, i {thet ‘the clothes wore $1, and $20 means a dead loss on the season's | values. Material and workmanship Z » You can't put away women’s! were of the best. The 60 per cent. 3 fess gua suits in cold storage and | reduction was solely because they pet! them next season, no matter how | were the ‘models of two seasons ago! tmcelient the material, how fine the) “One of our women editors came workmanship.” back wearing one of the suits and Indsed you can NOT. carrying a dress or two. She declared The American woman wants her | herself as preferring quality to flect- tlothes on the “fresh every hour” | ing fashion—and she surely got her principle. Wear the April fashion in| money's worth. boots in August? Horrors, no! In| “The power of regulating prices April they were wearing long, pointed | lies. with the consumer, eapecially amps in chocolate brown. Septem-| the woman consumer, So long as the Ber decrees ~ shorter vamp, and in! shopper demands the last degree of polor, gray! Mrs. Tarrarra, across/chameleon fashion, the highest de- tho ball, buys her boota at Gonkem| gree of luxury in shop furnishings, Brothers and pays eighteen dollars 4/| the degree of accommpdation in ir, Does John expect his own littic| credit, delivery, ‘approval sales’ and itey to get HER boots in a bargain | ‘exchanges,’ 0 long will prices be basement? And wear old-fashioned | necessarily high under the present frights and last year’s leftovers? | unstable conditions of labor and ma- terial. Romance Confirms. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall O matter how often @ man mar- most interesting- ly in the recent —— 7 66 Hy, dd 7) “In my opinion, fhough T do aot arriage of How- Finny Fish Skirt | pretend to know with any certainty, pe) Chendler nobody does, therg will be plenty of Christy, the fta- Latest From Paree| svt dow, tery wil be plenty of Curette te ables on the autumn market that show no alarming increase in price.| American girl, to his, very pretty But they will be more nearly! mogel, Mrs, Nancy May Palmer. For ‘standard’ styles. Extremes of qual-|¢nis iy Mr, Christy’s midsummer ro- ity! cut and workdliahship wil be mance, metaphorically as well ‘as lit- higher.” erally, On his application for a mar- An example of the sort of thing) rings license he admitted to being that will give John an attack of chills/¢o+ty.seven—an age well removed and fever when Wife presents the|¢rom the “sere and yellow leaf” of bill is the “short-Sleeved fur coat”! gutumn, but yet not the hightide of which is said to be one of the fall] spring. offerings of the Rue de Ja Paix. Many] gome twenty years ago Mr. Chris- wifes will become victims of insomnia] ty’s springtime love affair flowered until they possess @ short-sleeved fur] when he wedded beautiful Maybelle coat. Manufacturers will produce tt] Thompson. A definite blight settled —the high priced one in sables, the/on this romance when he obtained a humbler ones in rabbit skin end near/final decree of divorce last spring. cat, They will take a obance in put-| The former Mra, Christy is now Mrs, ting it on the market, Wild it be pop-| Leslie Canfield Ferguson, the wife of ular? Will it not? If it is, hooray,!a New York lawyer. But if you will hooray, the profits will be dat. if it|compare her photograph, which she isn’t, the prices will be boosted on| gave me several years ago for The other goods until the logs is covered.| World, with the photograph ef the Sensible women must suffer for the| present Mra Christy, you cannot but frivolous sisters. observe the marked similarity in the It, was that one-time master’ of] shape of the faces and the contour of master-couturiers, Paquin, whe said) the features. Friends of Mr. Christy, some years ago: who have seen both women, declare {ut I contrive to produce one big! that they are of the same general success in five years—ten ‘seasons’—it| physical type. pays me. Women will pay anything] Both the past and the present Mra. ba _ whatever strikes their * exotic] christy have served as models for the “That tells the tale, It te the euper-| famous Christy girl—“two model luxuries, the “exotic” styles, that cost | wives,” as the Office Jester pointed Us so fabulously, We may be over solout petore I qpuld stop him. Fach Teusibie suits, But so long a Jonas fomance was truly artistic and tem- peramental, wife demands the last word in fash- jon's Src teed verte me must all pay| ‘The little bride, whom her husband the penalty. Wool js plentiful, Wash- ‘ ington tells us. Leather la on hana | calls “the prettiest woman in Amer and of good quality. Cottone are | ica,” and who confessed on her wed- booming. Silks are sufficient, But| ding day to being “the happiest wom- an in the country,” is a daughter of New York State. She has been Mr, and the artistic godfather of the! “things are unsettled.” Strikes are on. ‘Tariffs and taxes and embargoes and freight rates and this, that and COE Mow s sem ‘ HIS is the age of frills! In most I instances they are of pleated organdy, lavishly used. The skirt of mauve shantung shown here gives its wer er an appearance strik- chameleon, ‘The consumer's temper is doubtful, And no one knows quite where he's at. Bo they think they'll boost prices again, Just for luck, But chiefly on luxuri hat you pay for your clothes next fall depends up- on whether you must have “the their marriage proves that, despite all denials, there is some sentiment in the studios, some possibility of ro- mance between ‘the artist and the ‘beauty whose charms he constantly ingly resertwling a fish, 60 finiike 18 latest” or. whether the “standard” |@tudies and depicts. Mrs. Christy ‘Mee eect cteakteohestgomen WOR GD cP Dest caitcnlerti _) Wao the original of the inspiring ' 254 by a al an coos aa 4 ' 4 “ ¢ me Return to Man Marries, He Always Reverts to the Same Physical Type’’—Ancient Matrimo- nial Lore Which Christy’ the other are behaving even ag the#Christy’s model for several years, and| s Often a - Midsummer ‘Romance of Artist Christy Type of Springtime ; Both Past and Present Mrs. Christy Were Models for the Christy Type. sy mR OSA rn eae ea a Markedly Similar in Facial | Artist’s Famous Girl,.and Both Are (Summer Girls of 1 DIAGNOSED BY A DICKY-BOY’S DIARY — a iit ies RUE OU LO | mete pt BO Se WA | cenye ia a awk. young woman who adorned her hus- ‘band’s patriotic posters during the war—"Americans All," “I Want You" and “Fight or Buy Bonds.” She is only twenty-seven an@ was widowed ten years ago. The first marriage of Mr. Christy, although apparently very happy at its inception, was for years an ‘oft again, on ‘again” affair, permeated with artistic temperament, Just ten years ago, on a snowy Thankagiving Day, Mrs. Maybelle} ‘Thompson Cliristy talked to me about it, in the New York home of her mother, while I admired her big brown eyes, her tvory-wMite skit and her ropes of silky dark hair, She is of Southern blood, and the daughter of an army officer, At that tino her husband -was living in Zanesville, and with him was their daughter Natalie, whose possession was a bone of contention between’ father and mother, “I know that my husband would ek a reconciliation,” Mrs, Christy sighed then, “if only it were not for] the influences to which he is sub-| jected.” She attributed their dim-| culties to her husband's interests in the teachings of a certain religion, | and she discussed the situation with| dratatic farvor and feeling. Later there was @ suit In Ohio, with allegations trom Mr. Christy that his wife's family interfered too much with his domestic affairs and that he de- aired to pursue his’art in quiet Zanes ville, while she preferred New York; while her counter allegations dealt with bis fondness for conviviality and for Christian Science, A rather pathetio letter trom her to the man who was then her husband was made public. “I annoy you and you are miserable with me,” she wrote, “so why wot end our relationship with some of the sweetness with whith we began it? Life is too short t6 harbor malice, Personally, I hold only the dearest thoughts of you. f can only remember the best of you, sémehow, and I am glad to forget the heartachos. “I am tired, tired of neglect, tired of living without love and care. And 1 want it because I can't taxe good care of myself, somehow. I feel like a little child to-night, all worn out with play, and I want somewhere,to lay my head and cry it all out, | want warmth and light. The darkness frightens me.” There were numerous rumory of reconciliation betwe artist and eevee aug Ek: the artist's wife, and at least one sult for divorce was brought and then withdrawn, Last spring, how- ever, the law definitely intervened between the two, and now both have sought matrimonial happiness: else- where, But the artist, at least, seems to have remained true to his Jdeal type of beauty, whom he has sketched on & thousand posters, magazine covers and frontispieces, simply dripping and oozing romance, He has written, too, a most ro- mantic description of the American Girl—“that tall, broad- shouldered, gracefully muscular crea- ture with her perpetual puttiig to shame of the umdersized man; that creature of tireless buoyancy and in- comparable Mtheness, the ‘rown- haired, blue-eyed beauty with the most admirable outlines, the most be- wildering variety of expréssion and the most radiant smile of anv woman in the world!” After that handsome tribute, let her—and the rest of us—wish him and his real-life “Christy girl” a love tory as hwppy as that of any veat-seller he ever tlustrated, Write PN and ink, crystallizing P facts and figures in indel- idle design are irrefutable and incontrovertible. To be sure to ‘remember—and not misre- member—“write it down"! Memory is fickle and treach- erous, Apparently ineradicable impressions turn transient evaporate—become illusory or elusive—are eventually hopeless- ly lost. The only way to pre serve and insure permanence of precision is to “write it down.” Memory is a huge ever-shifting quicksand. Mental notes and jot j tings are quickly erased and TWO MINUTES OF OPTIMISM By Herman J. Stich it Down eflaced, Put “it” in your note book-—later you'll have it at your fingers’ ends and tongue's tip. You can't gain or retain place or plaudit till you learn to “write it down,” — A ROCKING HORSE SEE-SAW, This excellent plece of furniture for the playground or porch may be eadlly made of a board and swements of rims from a discarded carriage wheel, The board is rounded, says Popular Science Monthly, and the segments set in thé board edge, Supporting strips may be used under the board and’ across the lower part. These segments are slightly set out, to make It rigid, No.,8—The HE CanooMiirl! The Dream Girl I should ike to call her. - ‘tls but to dream of bewutitel things when ‘ere she ie sip pad ' senger in the cance on the lake, 1 met her et the ina. I Tey, She was reclining languorously i the divan of the sammer porch. Her eyes Woked afar. The cool Before I knew it I-had spoken, “Do I enjoy the water?” dhe answered. “I like dothing better. Oh, ethe water, the beautiful, beautiful wat"—— Member the introduction vividly, looked so inviting. I learned afterward her mother was@ W. ©. T. ‘was a lighthouse koepér tn Kentucky, Ob, boy! upon. Lithe of limb, a shinimery sillagown which dutied in tantalizing curves about her graceful form, The curves of her welt roundéd arms seemed itching to place themselves upon your shoulder patronizing)y, The cerise parasol served to accentuate the rougish tint of her chiieks, while the way she carried it proved it was meant for two, J learned shelter tee peeres-et-qutet (tat this afterward, and it proved a subtle atetes in the cance. ts But when I switched the conversation to love, Cecelia weuld-look at me innocently, her dark eyes full of wonder, How cana girlot | twenty-two get that way, I ask? Three times I asked Cecelia if sha — knew what love waa Agein those iynocent eye, Three times I bit off the ends of perfectly good cigarette I'l got her yet! EPTING your hair cut now- adays is a major opera- tion, Barber gives ligto you with gas. And charges’ as much as a first-class surgeon. , Last thne we got a halr-cut— oh, a couple of months ago—it cost 60 cents, If that’s their idea of cut rates, good night! Barber's idea is to give @ trim- ming both ways. He parts your hair in the middle and you part with your dough tn the end. Don't like the way a barber says, “You're next!" You may BE next, but he’s gonna GET next. For 50 cents. Get your hair cut and the barber not only soaks you. He rubs it in. Only thing that pleases us is when the barb says, “Wet or dry?” We always vote. Wet. Barb tosses two fingers of bay rum op your dome and if you stick out your tongne you can ‘catch a few drops rolling down, Chief trouble is, most of the bay rum stays under the locks—just like all the rest of the booze. Cross-questioning starts when the barb's got the mattress fill- ing off your crown, “Shampoo?” Nope. “Dandruff cure?” Nope. “Hair toni Nope. “Skull perfume?” Nope. “Phrenology?” Nope. Customer offers no de- feose, Barb finds him guilty of being a tightwad, Fines him 50 cents for the hair-cut and 10 cents for a tip, Your money goes like sixty. Same kind of larceny for a shave, Twenty cents, Only rea- son a shave is lower, barb fig- ureseit's easier to cut your face than it is your hair, Barb fur- nishes the sticking plaster him- self. ‘Also does the sticking. Barbers are the only razor guys that don’t believe in safety first. Don't believe in safety at ders. U, while her father Bhe was good to look holders, Heigh ho, heigh bo, Shaves and Haircuts By Neal R. O'Hara Copreight, 1919, by The Press Publishing Co, (The Now Yok Brening. World). ail—not even when they're shaw | ing a victim, Barb smiles whem customers kick at 20-cent shaves and say they're gonna use @ safety- razor. Barb days, “Oh, they'll come back in.a couple of days.” They do come, back, too, Come back for more blades, \ Some joints now have lady bare” — ders, Not exactly an !nnovation. AS we recall It, Defilah was the first lady barb. Back inthe days — when Samson was making tem- , | ples crack under the strain, Delilah cut Sampy's hair and he Jost his strength. just how he felt, Had our heir cut in a swell hotel recently and we felt weak ourself when they told us the price. ‘ Lady barbs make a lot of ait ference.” Customers don't object to hearing ‘em. talk. Gegt can give the lady barb the once-over while she’s giving bln the twice- over for a shave. Lady barbs even catch the baldheaded trade for ‘bair-cuts. * Busy for. -tonsorial’ maids “to pick up the trade. Start” cul teeth when they're three mon old and eighteen years later they’ | start cutting hair, Only requiner ment is, lady barb must have ‘ single-track mind. But mp ‘b+ jection if there’ Know an old guy that used'a safety razor for years, Foupd : out. one day they had, lady ‘bar - Went home and threw away the safety razor. Looked ap @ lady barb and now he's am old blade, Yup, lady barbs have © —— WITH THE INVENTORS. Electrical apparatus bas vented by e Japanese with movements of @ ship can be trolled from the bridge without nalling to the engine room, ( And we know For’ ak fl ‘a By % *y anil