The evening world. Newspaper, June 9, 1919, Page 16

MONDAY, JUNE Here Comes the Bride Who in Dress and Walk Ts Like Stage Showgirl Gowned Attendants, Their Eyes and Lips “Made Up,’ Give June Weddings a Touch of “Jazz’’ as They Swing Into March With Synco- pated Step. Bride Still Wears a Veil as a Concession to Conven- » but Instead of Meekly Casting Down Her Eyes on Way to Altar She Carefully Notes the Effect She Is Making. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall ‘Coprright, 1919, by The Press Publishing Co. (The New York Evening World). N absent-minded old gentleman strayed into church one warm June evening recently, The seats were well filled with men in evening clothes and women in wonderful evening frocks—rose, gold-color, | Afzace blue—cut “backless” and sleeveless. The soft strains of “Lohengrin” | ‘were coming from the organ, and down the centre aisle, Just after the old gentleman was comfortably seated, advanced a procession as picturesquely brilliant as any- thing ever shown on the Winter Gardén runway. A sextet of lovely young women, their orchid gowns cut nearly to their deep gold girdles, their slashed skirts stopping amid-shin, purple powder deeperiing the arti ficial shadows thrown over their faces by thrée-foot- wide hats, moved at a gait a cross between a fox-trot © = and a onestep. Behind them walked a taller girl, in a ’ gown shorter, lower, more elaborate, the smile of the @uccessful star of the show on her carefully made-up face. Automatically , the old gentleman brought together his white-gloved hands with the gallant fervor he was accustomed to display nights when he occupied tis usual place in the first row of the orchestra circle, A shocked “Sh-sh-sh!” from his neighbors brought him to himself. “Bless my stars!” he was heard to murmur, “This is my niece, Marjorie’s, wedding. For a moment J thought I was seeing the opening chorus of “The Girlies of 1919. Perhaps it is a reaction from the haste and simplicity which have char- the war weddings of the fwo years. Whatever the reason, @ quite extraordinary extravagance ‘of costume and accessories, a distinct © theatricality—wnat one critic has de- * scribed as a “jazziness’—has hit the “June weddings this season. the high cost of getting mar- to the high cost of living, No in New York or its neighboring does the simple, dignified, fedding ceremony of other favor. Never did the brides- other attendants wear ‘conspicuous frocks, cut sensational fashion of the and developed in startlingly it colors, The bride makes the concession to ol convention by white and a veil, but her 4 t bave .been constructed the smartest of smart dances if ‘wedding is an evening affair—and is used freely under the eyes to make them look bigger, noses are kalso- mined whitely, Hps are the hectic scariet which the lavishly applied lip-stick alone produces. It is not 00d form for the 1919 bride to walk with her eyes meokly cast down, as in other days. She kéeps them wide open, presumably to note the effect of herself and her attendant neo- Phytes on an admiring audience, Naturally, all this stage eplendor ts expensive. Father has to dir deeper into his pockets, even though his in- come tax be not yet paid and next year’s State and national taxes are looming over the horizon. Every de- tall of the wedding is more elaborate and costly this year than ever be- fore. The most expensive caterer has to provide a special menu for the wedding breakfast. 1@ the suburbs the progressive wedding is fashionable. For this new version the church ceremony is held in one town; then the whole party climbs into taxicabs or pri- vate cars and motors to a neigh- boring town for the reception and dance. The bride's home is sel- dom used for this function; instead, father hires @ hall or a club bouse where there ts epace—and punch—for Soveral hundred guests, It once was a compliment for a Birl to be asked to “stand up” with a friend at her wedding. The invita- tion is still-e compliment, but a cost- ly one, Tovmeet the bride's specifi- cations in the wey of a costume, her friends may have to buy more expen- sive frocks than they ever owned be- i in li een eas ‘of color echemes each tries to go a atop er neighbor. Gone are bridesmaids affected the soft pastel shades @ainty and charming Mamboyant. Now gold @ favorite colors for. e t i i g 8 tH fn ; marches are still there te nothing slow and about the bridal processiort. ig reminded of the naughty old * words somebody wrote for a wedding maroh: “Here comes the bride— ‘ Zz i rf Get on to her stride, Hee how she wovties from side to side; Germany in its relations with ‘Turkey and Austria was very wmmth Ike an African king I once theard of,” declared a Y. M. C, A. speaker. “This king had taken a great fancy to a mis- sionary, and wishing to please him and make him stand be- tween him and the white gov- ernment, who ‘were inclined to certain atrocities, snd him, replied diplomatically: “**"You honor me but I dare not ghee lest the other 499 grow jeal- mitety i “take thé all.’ "Pitts TURE cows Rae fore, and their similarity means that they must be changed and redec- orated—with another dressmaker’s bill—before they can be useful for general wear as party gowns. ‘The groom te expected to provide & wedding ring of expensive platinum, to match the diamond-set engage- ment ring, instead of the simple old cirelet of go. And the high cost of getting married hits him in an- other way—in the gifts he must make to his ushers, One New York groom recently gave gold garters to the men who “ushed” at his wedding, { the days before the divorce rate was one in dine and when one wed- ding lasted a mit for @ life time, she spent much less on it than to-day. ‘Now that we no longer have to save: the wheat and save the meat, why doesn't somebody start a move. ment to save the wedding fuss and feathers? es IT COULD BE PUNK. ILG!B - Dad, why is an after- dinner speoch called a toast? Dad—Because it is # dry, my son, —P biladelphia North American. > LITTLE FACTS ABOUT VU, 8. By Margaret Rohe | ‘Copyright, 1919, by The Pres Pubtistitng Oo, (The New York Brening World.) LiL the garments appertaining to « child's wardrobe are twice as expensive propor- Uonately as a grownup’s, Time was when @ sheer white hand made slip with a touch of real lace insertion and edging was the acme of elegance for any gnd all children, irrespective of. type. Nowadays designers for emall folks are just as important as designers for big folks and ft is just as essential that the type of frock should Mt the wee wearers person- ality. We have departed far from the English custom of dressing our off- spring in chaste white and, following the French fashion, we now deck them out in all the colors of the rain- bow, from orange and cerise down to Diack and lavender, Black taffeta frocks are indeed very chic enlivened with @ay yarn embroidery, and an or- gandie dress of orchid or mauve, fufflly ruffied and sashed and sur- Declaring that the destiny of civi- lization may hang on this country for the next century, John Gals- worthy said in @ recent New York address, “If America gots the ewell: head the world will get cold feet.” According t© the conclusions reached by the Government investi- gators who took the federal bird ceneus several years ago, breeding birds prefer to set up housekeeping and raise their families in the thickly inhabited centres of population. An- ol instance of flocking to the pliced, i@ perfect for an heiress from three to eight. The French models are mostly straight-lined Nttle affairs, very brief as to skirt and very scant as to full- ness. They all show some etriking embroidery of brilliant hued yarn or silk, or else some unique color com- bination of materials, A quaint litte drew of pale Japanese cotton crepe has a waist and low round neck and bole bive New Styles for Children ————— Wedding Costumes of Stage Splendor BRIDE LOOKS LIKE STAR OF SHOW, WHILE BRIDESMAIDS ARE BRILLIANT IN ORCHID GOWNS THAT ARE CUT NEARLY TO THEIR GOLD GIRDLES AND HAVE SLASHED SKIRTS A Tune Brides dress thit Season | SOLDIER WOODCARVER. There is in Vancouver on a visit from Victoria @ returned soldier, Pri- vate Gugden, invelided home. He is a remarkably clever wood carver and Produces Teuton “dawgs,” British bull dogs, Red Cross nurses, Tommies, ete, cut out with a pen knife. These are real works of art, can be bought from 50 cents upwards, and it is strongly recommended that readers get apd keep these little sou- venirs of the great world war.. They “historical” in tim ‘The little wood carvings made by the prisoners of war from Napoleon's army during their stay in England re now eagerly sought after and bic | prices are paid for them—Vancouver World. yarn crochet, and ts worn over a If- tle wht@® organdie guinrpe edged with tatting. ‘The same model comes in a rose crepe with Chinese blue yarn scallops or an orange with scallops of lavender. A dashing Iittte Nite green linen with collars, cuffs, pockets aml yoke eplashed with the green and cerise of embroidered cherries and topped off with a poke of green raffia bobbing with the same delectable fruit, caused various shades of green envy to sprout in other small breasts as its fair owner flaunted its cherry charms in the park the other day. The cunning fluffy ruffle frocks of wprigged dimity, pink rosebudded Voile and cross barred organdie, in all heavenly shades, turn their fortunate Little possessors into animated flower bells or butterflies, Quaint effects of grandmother chintz and English print in gay colors are chic and bizarre and perfect apparel indeed for the back haired, gypsyesque little maid, as the fluffy frocks adorn more fitting- ly the pink and white perfection of Miss Goldylocks As for the little Beau Brommels, they still strut in khaki attire or swagger in the starched white or navy blue of the Jack tar, They are great stickters for the proper insignia, how- ever, and woe be to the short sight- ed mother who has purchased an Eng- lish sailor @uit for her young hopeful, Her Bfe is made a hideous burden until the royal insignia is ripped from the sleeve and replaced with the screaming eagle, and white stare must shine from each corner of the collar @utlined with acallopa of pins! or all wii mos be well with the world, Ignorant Essays By'J. P. McEvoy Copyright, 1919, by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Rvening World). PIES HE ple is an American institution endowed by pepsin manufac- turers, doctors, undertakers and movie comedians. There are two kinds of pies, The Kind Mother Used to Make, found only in comic weeklies, and the Pie You Buy, The Kind Mother Used to Make is like George Washington's Little Cherry Tree, the Little Bird Who Flies Out of the Nice Man's Camera, the Wampus, the Wuff-Wuff and the Peace Dove. In othem words, it ain't. The Pie You Buy is composed of two layers or three. They are called layers because they lay on the stomach. The two-ply kind ts safer than three—there is one layer less. The bottom layer is fash- foned from putty and disguised to resemble half-baked dough. The second layer is animal, vegetable or mineral, and the third the same as the first, tanned brown, The Pie You Buy (we donate the phrase to any charitable cause) is heartily indorsed by the manufacturers and distributers of casket trimmings, floral pleces, monuments and mourning. If you have a pale, weak stomach and wish to get the full effect of the succulent mince pie, for instance, without investing in one, you can do 80 by filing the corners off a brick, sprinkling it with gravel and swallowing it : Moving pictures have opened up a wonderful, new field for the pie industry. No movie comedy is complete without its case of pies. ‘The most comical pie, of course, is the custard. In movies the comedy reaches a happy perfection when the come- dian throws a ripe custard pie into the nearest lady's face. If the lady happens to be hie mother, then the comedy is even more inspired, and conscquently the laughter is heartier. One ordinary pie ts good for at least thrée laughs, and a ripe, juicy custard produces even more. When you consider that more than one hundred ‘pies are used in the average two-ree! comedy, you begin to understand the importance of the pie industry, Ae the saying goon: Pastry is the soul of wit, |New Zealand Government Lends Money to Ho A | with plenty of Jand, once held at almost no value, there should have de- 1919 | MONDAY, - JUNE 9, Where Can | Live? | A Question That All the World Is Asking Housing Problem in Australia And New Zealand Builders, Selis.or Rents Them Land, Protects Against Speculators—Australia Has a Similar Plan, .but Only Rents Land on Basis That Is Practical Ownership. e é FOURTH @&RTICLE OF A SERIES Written Especiatty for yr Evening World By Charles Harris Whitaker Editor Journal of the American Institute of Architects Conrriaht, 1919, by The Press Mublishing Co, (he Now York Rrenine. World), T the other end of the earth are two countries which have attracted & good deal of attention by reason of their advanced liberal legis- lation, They are new countries, as the age of nations is meas- ured, and neither of them is yet a century old. Yet both of these countries, one a continent, the other a group of-small islands, have a housing prob- lem. Why should they? How does it happen that in a virgin country, veloped slums, squalor and filth in so many communities? Again we are confronted with the fact that wherever men have gone in Australia or New Zealand, wherever they have sought to work, or to live, or to play, somebody has been able to charge them a constantly in- ereasing price for the right to work, or live, or play on the surface of the 7 earth., Yet, in New Zealand, conditions grew so bad that in 1874-76, only thirty years after the colony was proclaimed, land speculation brought on a crisis where the banks failed and the country was brought face to face : with a gloomy disaster. Then New Zealand began to think seriously about be land question and to provide that in many ways the Government shou itself exercise a supervision over the use and occupancy of land. \ Our concern is solely with the | arate cane ace, Government's legislation in regard to} In addition to these laws there is housing, and here we may find the | another law for the gmat! agricultural simplest method that has ever been | worker, and the Jocal communities j devised for bringing the Government | have algo the power to engage in” and the workman together, Suppose | housing enterprises, as they have in ‘ that you are a good workman, living| England. Beside this, New Zealand ! in New Zealand. You earn good| has now under consideration a Na- wages, are sober and industrious, and | tional Town Planning Act which will you wish to buy and own ashouse of | still further provide for Government : your own, All that you need to do is | supervision and control of and, The \ to walk into the nearest Post Office | policy of the country is that the land | and tell your story to the Postmaster. | is for the use and service of the peo | He will provide you with an applica- | ple, and that policy is based not upon tion form which you can fill outy! any sentimental gush,,but upon the | He will also show you plans and pic- | solid and fundamental! principle that , tures of some twenty different types it is of no advantage for a country | of houses that have been déveloped as| to have its land gambled with and | economical, convenient, durable and its industries burdened with the gam- easy to keep in repair. You do not|bler’s profits. It is of no advantage necemarily have to select one of these to have land increase in price if the Government-planned houses, but if increase is absorbed by a non-prov you desire to humor your own fan-| ducer who takes the increase and . cies, you must have your plans ap-| grows fat with it. If the increase / i proved by the Government, to insure! can go back into the pockets of those that you can really build the house| who create it by living on the land, with the loan for which you are ask- | working on the land, playing on the'/ ing. land (when they g¢t chance), then When you file your application every land would be a better one to , form you pay the Postmaster a gum! live in. That is what New Zeatand | amounting’ in our money to about believes, and that ts the purpose she $1.75. That is: all the payment you | has in mind. have to make. There are no further| ‘The tews in the different provinces | charges for records, deeds, mort-/of Australia are very like those in | gages, brokers, lawyers, title insu-| New Zealand. In some of the prov-° rance, and ail the miscellaneous! inces, Queensland, for example, the | pluckinga that have been invented in| State (or the Crown, as it is still the old nattons, and by which s0/| called) owns vast areas of land. This large a percentage of a man's money! cannot now be sold to any individ- goes not into building but into some-| ual. Nobody can buy it. But it may body's pockets. If the authorities of | be rented, and the renter may have; New Zealand, after investigating | all the advantages that go with own- your character, believe that you are| ership. He may live on it, work on it, | @ worthy risk, you are granted the| and his family may inberit the right loan for which you have asked. to go on living there, but he cannot Suppose that when you ask for the/ specuiate with it, and as the country loan you have no land on which to build, All right, says the Govern- ment, we have plenty of land, and you are offered sites from whichsto select, In some cases the Govern- ment will sell you the lamd; in other cases, it will rent it to you, but then under a provision which gives you all the advantages of ownership, and which gives you the further ad- vantage of protecting you from loss through speculation on the part of somebody who sees a chance to make @ corner-lot pay a big profit by ruin- ing your lot alongside. It is not by any means an unmixed blessing to own jana, Thougands have lost every dolar they put into the purchase of a piece of land, and many a poor workman has had his property ruined and the savings of years taken away from him by @ smart speculator who built a garage, or a stable, or some other objectionable building next door, ‘ But that is the Simple process of extending Government aid to home- builders in New Zealand. It is a small country. elt is about as big as New York, Pennsylvania, New Jer- sey and Delaware together, but its population in 1916 was barely a million, Yet, since 1906, in thig little sparsely settled land, Government money had ‘been lent for land settlement to the amount of over $80,000,000, of which about one- half had been repaid. In addition to this, there has been lent (up to March 81, 1917) more than $16,000,- 000 to individual workmen who wished to build houses of their own, The sum advanced on a single house must not exceed $2,250; the inter- est is payable semi-annually, and an instalment of the loan must also be paid at each semi-annual period. The percentage of instalment paid determines the period in which the whole loan may be taken up, but the borrower may arrange to have trom twenty to thirty-eix yours, grows ond the use value of Jand in- creases, that use value is paid into the treasury of the state and not into / . the pockets of the parasites that hap- ‘ pen, in most other countries, to own the land. ‘But remember that the parasites are not confined to a clas. The greedy poor are just as bad as the greedy rich. It ta the syetem that , is to blame, not men. Do not waste your time and your temper in: revil- ; ing any class of men. Landlords and land-owners do not differ, whatever ( class they may belong to, Lots of men are parasites because they eam- | not help it. They woul be useful | citizéns if they did not enjoy a priv. llege which, if ¢raced beck far enough, is based on theft of the@and and its succeeding grant to some! titled family or jucky adventurer, + New Zealand and Australia have, more than apy other countries, pref. | ited from the work's experience im! trying to deal with the housing prob- | lem. The United States is a long way! behind them. a cs idence EXPERIENCE WORTH SOME. THING. LOCAL soldier boy whe rex A cently returned from overseas ‘wis telling some of his ex- periences to some friends: “I nearly starved going over,” he said, “because it took me 80 long te get used to my megs kit, “How was that?” some one asked, “Oh, You see, we all had to mareli past @ certain place on the boat and eet our dishes filled with chow,” “Yes"— “The rolling of the boat was toa! meh for me, and half the time r@ reach for some stew it would land! on the flo yards an With Me 0. couple of he Bn nal 8, something to mer ene Wes Wort “In what way?” > emacs, ‘Ake my place ta tae an Oo aoa