The evening world. Newspaper, June 7, 1919, Page 9

SATURDAY, JUNE 7, “Smokes for Women’’ New York’s Answer to ‘‘Should Women Smoke >” Milady’s Cigarette, Having Puffed lis Way Into the /f. Audit Reports of the Women’s City Club, and } Having Even Acquired a Wardrobe of Its Own, Claims the Decision on Points. And It Was Only a Few Years Ago That Alice Roose- velt Longworth Set the ‘‘Nation” Talking, and Mrs. Patrick Campbell Smoked Half a Cigarette in a New York Hotel Before She Was Stopped. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Copyright, 1919, by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Rventng World). I New York, at any rate—of the “Smokes for Women” movement. Many are the straws showing how the wind of tolerance blows the smoke of the feminine cigarette; no longer, in this cosmopolitan city, the smoke of tattle. If the dully slowing tip of a woman's weed could kindle hereabouts @ flame of popular indignation, would one of our most 1919 tered adverticement, “Should a Woman Smoke?” and then continue, biandly: “We know that many of New York's charming women do indulge. And we know we can supply the needs of those who do. Bverything for the man or woman who has a warm spot in his or her heart for a cool smoke. Try us for your favorite = smoke!” Tike a stone dropped into a hornet's nest. Large clouds of angry words ‘would have buzzed about our heads. Poor, dear New York would have been put in the same class with the decadent Roman Barpire, and the lat- ter’s fate once more would have been | ecreed for us—date of the fall to be | 0 more than threé months off. Other times, other manners, moral- i ttles and crusades. Is anybody, ex- {| opt maybe Dr. Pease or his friend } Annette Hazelton, going to get ex- eited about Gtraw No. 2, another lit- Ge indicator of the favoring gales that fan ever higthér ata thicker the '! cigarette smoke puffed by ‘women? i ‘This straw is to be found in the jj June bulletin of the Woman's City jj Club, containing @ report on the jj audit of club accounts, from March 1, 1718, to February 28, 1919. During that period the chub, the large mem- bership of which contains the names ot New York's most intelligent and ‘useful woman olitizena, sold cigarettes te the value ji $831.90, with a prodt of $152.91. And these cigarettes were not bought by club members as Christ- mas presents for their brothers and husbands. When the Women’s City Chub opened its first rooms on the top floor of the Hotel Vanderbilt, a smok- ing‘room was in the suite and smok- ing was permitted everywhere, with ash-trays and matches always close at hand. In a very short time cigar- ottes with the club's monogram were on sale, One smoked or didn't, as ome chose, but the home-loving ma- tron was as likely as the profeasion- al woman or the Newport hostess to ‘be haloed with pale blue clouds. New York took the proceedings without a throb of moral indignation or @ thrill of excitement. The hin- terlands, however, doubtless enjoyed both pleasures. A City Club friend of mine .gwve a luncheon to visitors from darkest Indiana. After the cof- fee she was readjusting her furs when she caught a disconsolate ex- change of glances among the mem- bers of ber party. eee a ee eS ey Ten years, even five years, ago that cheerful bid for feminine patron- ge would have reacted on all our professional “whither-do-we-drifters” | local ¥. M. C. A. public debate a con- “Oh, would you like something else?" she inquired courteously, , & came from ali the throats with the unity and intensity of @ college sy@le “Oh — Miss — Jones -~ aren't — you—-going—to—smoke—for—us?” However, let not New York pride herset too loftily on her tolerance and sophistication. It was not ever thus. Bleven years ago, in 1908, Car- rie Nation told @ Prohibition Conven- 7 tion that Mrs, Alice Roosevelt Long- worth smoked cigarettes. At about that time Mra, Patrick Campbell smoked half a cigaretse in the Hotel Plaza—then an assistant | manager implored her to stop, The { managers of the other hotels tumbled |. over, themselves in their haste to as- t sure the public that such doings nev j . never would be permitted within their 4, sacred walls, 1 am told, by the way, { . that several of those same hotels are 4 now selling cigarettes tipped with ‘ t red,,s0 that they may serve as pro- tective camouflage for lip rouge too loosely applied. Club women gave out earnest in- terviews condemning and deploring the cigarette for their sex, “Little Tim" Sullivan drew and the Board of Aldermen passed an ordinance gol- emnly prohibiting women from smok- ing in restaurants, theatres and other public places—an ordinance vetoed id by Mayor MoClellan on the ground that the board was exceeding its con- stitutional powers, The next picture in smoke for Now York women came in 1910, when for the first time they were allowed to smoke publicly in one of the large hotels, the newly opened Rits-Cariton, Im « few restaurants the practice had been winked at—in one restaurant to which we always take our country cousins, women puffing at cigarettes were smiled on by the authorities as &® part of the show. But the manager of the Rits declared frankly: “Thus \s o free country. Let women smoke if they wish to do #0.” Then in the Vanderbilt, the St. Regis and other hotels the feminine cigarette became figuratively speaking, a pipe of peaca. Alderman Frank L. Dowling, i4 1911, tried to get the Board of Alder- men to pass another ordinance against women sthoking in public, but Cor- poration Counsel Watson quashed the idea, saying pertinently: “I call your attention to the fact that the prohtbi- tion would attempt to control per- sonal conduct which in no way en+ croaches on the rights of others and which might be considered to be not subversive of public order, health or morality.” ° In this same year a smoke solo by Mies Anne Morgan was chronicled as coloring the weighty atmosphere of a luncheon of the Women's Departmen: of the National Civic Federation. An Evening World investigator at this time was told by the miles man- ager of @ cigarette manufactory that in one year 95,000 New York women smoked 34,675,000 cigarettes. One other incident of this eventful year in the progress of the women smoker must be chronicled, At a sclentious young man, H. Guiremand, uttered the male ultimatum: “The Nips that touch tobacco shall never touch mine.” Mr, Guiremand’s ac- tual words were: “I never will kiss & woman who smokes.” Binoe that time—oh, well, one good puff has ied to another. Even Queen Mary of England decided, several years ago, to permit women to smoke at @ooial functions she adorned with ber presence. During the dance craze which bit New York in the first year of the war young women amoked as they danced in the restaurants and cabarets, Smoking gowns for women were shown in the #hops. Two years ago Dr, Waltam H. Allen denounced smoking at New York's setthement houses, Last February Vassar girls also did their bit in the denouncing line. ‘The fact remains that in New York the fire back of fetnini: smoke is wilddire—the king’ tee reade without being checked. Yat the city still stands! The efficiency of the city’s women the war! seems to bave been no more impaired by their cigarettes than was the work of American doughboys overseas, | The situation must be a bit pus aling to all the “view-with-wlanmen,” we is just one crusade after | ‘“‘Bathing Capes’’ for 1919 Mermaids AND A TRIM LITTLE JERSEY SILK SUIT, JUST THE THING FOR THE GIRL WHO GOES IN FOR A SWIM WHEN SHE THROWS OFF HER CAPE JERSEY BEACH CAPE | Summer's O art to a graduate degree. He discovery. Namely, that As soon as I struck the Boardwalk I discovered a refrewbing thing, Bvery one looked as fresh and frigid as an Arctic breeze, and happy !n thelr dis- covery of some North Pole secret. I lett my hat and my fur coat up at the hotel, and began a Peary expedi- BEACH CAPE OF tion in search of the secret. PURPLE WOOL JERSEY I saw women in filmy organ- PR ACCORD IAN dies, with filmier fissures that blew PLAITED SATIN MATCHING | in the breese, amd I sew aylpb-like SUIT OF SAME SHADE | maidens im dainty petalled summer silks that swayed abgut like much bepetalled flowers on @ender stalks. Speaking of camouflage, I sew gay parasols of every color that no other season has brought forth. There were peach and raspberry, apricot and mul- berry, prune and tomato—until the each seemed to blossom with bloom- ing fruits on its very sande—like tutti-fruitt: sundae, ‘There were hats of the sheerost Ignorant Essays PULLMAN PORTERS The Pullman Porter Is Known to Every Student of Traveling Palmistry—He’s One Guy You Have to Hand It To—He Always Gets What’s Coming to Him—Even in This Essay By J. P. McEvoy Copyriabt, 1019, by The Press Publishing Co. (he New York livening World) HE Pullman porter was once the Ethiopian in the woodpile, but the advent of the steel oar changed that. Pullman porters are decided brunettes and range in shades from a light cream or sorrel to @ rich, lustrous, fast black. They are equipped with non- skid smiles, each as large as the segment of an adult watermelon, and the keen scent of the well-trained cash-hound.,. In fact. a Pullman Porter can smell « quarter further than a Scotchman can see one. This | {s almost past belief, but it is the sorrowful truth! Pullman porters live on trains and the passengers thereof. The company is very kind to them. It lets them ride on the trains free for nothing gratis, provided they make the soup and beds, polish the win- dows and shoes, and let the customers call them George. The cus- tomers. or passengers, also pay their salaries. The company lets them do this because, says the company: “The passengers just love the porters, and the only way they can show their gratitude is by giving the porters money. And if we also gave the porters money they would have enough to live on, and then they wouldn't work for us. So we'll let the passengers give them all the mouey or else the passengers will grow angry at us and never forgive us this ill-feeling, and will spoil the pleasure of their trips.” Perhaps the company is right. but speaking for one passenger, I believe I would not let my angry passions rise. Pullman porters are noted for their savoir faire, aplomb, eclat and jeau d’esprit, as we say at the qlub, In fact, they are uncomfortably polite. When one of them 1s around you know you should act like a gentleman all the time, so It Is imposstble to feel at home. You'd like lo put your feet up on the window sill and spit on the ceiling, but you are quelled beneath his dignified gaze. The Pullman porter is the inventor of the painless extraction method. His golden smile is a mellow benediction and # soothing anaesthetic under the Influence of which he can emputate a quarter o a half @ dollar from you without causing you the slightest pain. He ts one of the very few, in fact, who can separate the ordinary man from his money without resorting to twilight gleep. wo ‘ | eee em ee CO — Loh Suit OF JERSEY SILK IW GRAY ANO NAVY OR ‘TAN AND BROWN, SUITABLE POR WEAR UNDER CAPE COLOR OF DARKEST SHADE Camoyflage—and Keep Newest Hathion Fad Leaves Lingerie at Home LONG BEACH STARTED IT Just Sew Up Slit in Skirt ana Wear Men’s Sox—Doff the Blouse and Wear Lace Vestee With Suit Coat —Then Paint a Skirt on Your Bathing Suit and You’re All Set for Old Sol. : By the Fad Finder Copyright, 1919, by The Pres Publishing Co, (The New York Evening World). What are the wild waves saying, sister dear, to thee It’s time to breeae on the beaches in your camouflage lingerte, UT at Long Beach, last Sunday, the Fad Finder made a remarkable the newegt note in summer fashions ia camoufiage, and that out at Long Beach they have acquired the ‘s the way I happened to get a look-in on the camouflage secret, I left Fifth Avenue with a hot, sticky sensation of summer furs, kid gloves and woollen suits, and hied myself to Long Beach, where there was lots of lemonade, and lots more ocean. SATURDAY, Every June 19, by The Press Punitehin place to October as a ‘month belo groom, Perhaps the beautiful fall colorings, the many tinted eAry- santhemums, the c! with the spirit of Piven jar Mrs. Cholly Knickerbocker, ther tell red from blue. ‘Tp-day this letter came to ‘The Evening World: . “For the benefit of all June brides, Sem will you kindly publish how to divide “ss. [the wedding expenses, also suggest little tokens suitable for bridesmaids and maid of honor, tell in what order “=~ | they should march down, tnoluding Fayhion a flower girl, what gort of supper Camera should be served when wedding is héld at home or jn a smali hall, and ~.—. |whould the bride keop her vell on throughout the evening, also at supper?” I am so giad the writer of the above note asked, first of all, “how to divide the wedding expenses.” That little word “divide” means & - F great deal, Planning a wedding ls = like planning to build @ house, It . ” always costs more than you expect- Cool ed! The man who starts out to build o a house ie told that it will cost him & certain round sum. If he never jouse before he believes it, five hundred for INCIDENTALA. He knowe there willbe extra things coming up on afl hands that were not mentioned in the builder's estl- mate, The builder will be modest, he. will hang his head and look decidedly sheepish when he informs “extra” here and before his eyee—so where's that et» tra thousand or five hundred, please? Now many a woman will need to have an extra roll of bilis tucked away in her—well, she herself knows whore, for extras UNLMGS she first asks “How oan I divide the wedding expenses?” first selects her wedding gown, then her veil, then the presents to her at- tendants, then last of all the suppér, without once using a pad and pencil and @ big bump of forethought, Many fond mothers reason that daughters’ wedding is the last op- portunity of showing their devotion to nothing, that looked like halos hover- ing for a moment over angelic head- dresses, And then, of course, the JUNE 7, Little Wedding Problems Some Simple Solptions How to Divide Wedding Expenses—Presents for Bridesmaids and Maid of Honor— % Order of March—The Wedding Supper — —The Wedding Veil. By Fay Stevenson to bring this change about; per! = of baving.o1 wedding at a different a arr EET SrasyU6hy. elec accounted for it. But now, with the ‘coming home of the men, and the whole world all alive =~ ~_ coming into her own again. But whether wedded in June or October, winter OF summer, there are a number of little details which aes to be attended to, regardiess of the day, month or No matter how well posted we are in social i no matter how many of us consider ourselves a questions at the last moment when we are “so excited” that we can hardly Woe to the woman who’ the decorations ant them, And while all this Is perfectly Wies of Mushroom Saace, true, still I know one fond mother who pre Le put a mortgage of $1,000 on her home Melt Brotied Chicken Bride Faces; sys i Co. (The New York Bvening World). month of brides and giving nging strictly to the bride and bride Me ool, crisp, invigorating air all helped just the novelty — time “from romance and love, the June bride is are bound to arise little irritating ——2——ee Therefore to the mothers and , who. are preparing for the festive casion I my visit the different a Amers, creators of gowns, florists caterers and know just what you are ‘ paying for, everything from the wing on your hat to the wing on your table* Take your pencil and paper and ada and subtract and divide, but don’t § multiply too much! Have « little for poor old dad. And remember ‘ the stmplest weddings are often the prettiest and most charming, As to the presents suitable for bridesmaids and the maid or ma‘ of honor, of course that rests tirely with your own good taste what you desire to spend. If there are” many bridesmaids the gifts are Supposed to be so expensive, but all be alike in order to ttle feeling that might aris, A fan, or a pretty vanity Bag @ pleasing little token, Naturaliy: jELeyee! fap z i! i : i F ? 3 $F =f ese f i 3 F H Z : ' t= i F H rit eof - ed bai z li iH 5 F Et TE 3 5 E F} a 3 : 8 ad ae =k rf Hi il les i usual variety of beach hate—great floppy ingenue hats, closely woven enough to keep out the sun's rays but light enough for the sumer sephyrs. But whether the Long Beach fairies wore georgette and tulle, or whether they were tailoredin silk suits and vestees, they wore that look of cool contentment that I was out to find a recipe for, And I found it. I found it in a bath house, where one of our prominent theatrical stare was preparing to change from a beach beauty to an ocean nymph. “Will you unpin my coat?” she asked, as whe searched madiy under the lapel of her shantung coat-suit for an elusive pin. Helping a woman hunt a missing pin is footing for close friendship, I E to give her daughter the “finishing touches” to her wedding. Because the daughter was to marry a wealthy man the nfwther wanted to give her the best showing possible, Aa a matter of fact the bridegroom was a man who had accumulated his money by scheming and thinking aad saving; by going without lunches, sitting up al night on cars instead of taking @ sleeper on business trips, and pinehing every penny that came bis way; and the pomp and vanities of this elaborate wedding not only bored him but actu- ally made him diggusted with the policies of the family he was about to enter, Nor is this partioular bridegr> sm the only male belng on earth who th i i And about that wedding vell? Cer tainly the bride must wear it all eve~ fi ARP to America by aln—é = & mile. This is the Vickers Company’a predicted price for « transathentio trip in the new gigantic airship now practically completed at the finm's detests too much of @ “showing.” Wed- dings are always for women, anyway, remember that! Who ever heard any- thing like “Here comes the bride- groom'’—oh no! it's always “Here comes the bride!" Ask any man what the bride wore and he will blush- ingly say, “Oh, she wes a little peach — she had something soft and white on, and she wore @ long net veil like the farmers used to put on the top of fruit baskets.” So there you are! ee ing sult—bat it was. It was ph‘n camouflage. Around the Hne waere the skirt should fall, was am ocean wave design, painted in white on the black taffeta suit—in wildes, ocean line camounage. “Aren't you warm?” she sald, turn- ing to me with that frigid-sone, lee- cold-lemonade splendor. I admitted I was, But that was lest Sunday. found the pin—and presto, her pretty shantung coat, beruffied lace vestes and al came off, leaving her m @ charming , little camisole of palest gray! “You don’t wear a blouse under your coat suit!” I gasped, “No won- der you're cool.” “Mercy no! Never,” she sak. “1 should be spending my whole salary on laundresses if 1 did.” She unsnapped her narrow abirt, ‘and let it drop to the Boor, I gasped egain: “No pettioutT” “Superfiuous,” #he reptied. “And hatf-hose,” I shrieked. “Why not?’ she laughed, “It's just @ question of whether or not youre willing to sew up the obit in the beak of your skirt.” A pretty Httle white jersey ilk undervest was all that was left. She slipped out of it, into a bathing suit and her bathing sukt was my final] I'm fifty degrees cooler today. gurprise. Have you dtecovered the North Pole 1s Gidn't jook [ke « regular bath-|yet? Barrow yards, and of which the trials are scheduled for May. “Dhe veosel, which is of the: latest ‘im-~ proved type, will have @ outbie) om? pacity of over 1,200,000 feet, = designed to carry 100 oe America in forty-eight hours, J average @peed for the trip “a seventy-five miles per hour, and fare should work out at about ¢ * & mile, or $240, Vickers are also building a of airships for sporting purp cluding African big game bus FROM HERE AND THE At @ cost of about $9,000,000 will batld @ tunnel more than miles jone under a portion of Shimoneseki Girait to lnk te mainland two wwns now ferryboats. ee ‘Wind shields have been ghat can be mounted on the the front seat of an aut it the drafts caused by S