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, ! FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 1919 | Are Women Going Back | | | | | | | | FRIDAY, JANUARY 10, 1919 Yvette Guilbert Tells How . . To Old Fads and F rivolity | , ¢ R. er LZ ° . i San eye. A err War Service?) M g of I Worn b ; =| “le eaning of insignia Worn oy Yur sotaters | Purple or Vermilion 7 . a And Sail S No,” Answers Mrs. Nina L. Duryea. There Is Still n ailors Seen on New York Street qyey sre tne colors or th fj ’ ¢ hey Are the Colors of the Four Comic Spiri i | War to be Waged, She Reminds, Against Pov-| a How to Distinguish the © ts for G j i, Aaron ‘ erty, Tuberculosis and Other Enemies of Health| go 7) : Se Ue ae ee hevrons of Home and s for Gayety Quiet and Refined, Red Is for the and Happiness, Which, With New Jobs Too, Will| Hie Dy Raa Tentia ee nee Citation Cords, Farcical Mood, Purple Is for the ‘*Unmobile’’ , ’ . ivision lentifications. ci , " 1 he , i Heep Womdh Serving lr Boe pidaat od ao iad a Songs, Sung Without Gestures, While Vermil- . | 4 , es an arrettes, an i i , ion Is the Color of Slapstick Comed, . , Other Markings So C i minke ALE \| By Marguerite Mooers Marshall gs So Confusing to the Layman. , = nse i Copyright, 1919, by The Prew Publishing Co, (The New York Bveniog World.) By Will B. Jol By Nixola Greeley-Smith RE well-to-do women going to demobilize, leaving the rank - A » Johnstone. Coprright 1919, ty The Pres Publishing Co, (The New York Evening World ye, leaving te ranks of u BO"F DIVISION Ait, 19197 by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Evening Worl ) RAINBOW (42 Eo - fulness and service for the pursuit of the fads that may succeed MIRGINIA 2 PENN Hs civilian man-in-the-street has a new popular pastime. It ball ol VETTE GUILBERT, the world's greatest singer of songs, as write dea rotting Gad Poller skating’? Are ciher Wenn bolne 16 With s Siiuiai fie ROKENMLE MRO aCeIL ean Lo ane ite ten a book which must prove of incomparable value to everyone draw from their industrial outposts instead of consoli ne of in a markings worn by ow i re : oekere | who desires to excel in what seems the most facile, and is actually i dating their gains? Or are the victoric eomen dur It was hard + the comparatively simple d ovr oF | LE SCG Aa dal ll Mac sade ashe Sh: last few years over their own and others’ self t flood Kon eh GHWRNIGNENORER e1AVUiT GHRMC eaMMLiiR feo eeaven” bert’s text is as simple and comprehensive as her title— ishness and inertia to last Darrettnn DULLONAiOND FouGtton, SOEVidn- aud wuund (Ghevrona, Gold How to Sing a Song.” i, Along with many persons, I have been wondering ver stars, red circumnfiexes, multi-colored divisional dist If you are impressed by musical gibberish and cannot f about the answers to these questions since the signing marks has got the uninitiated mind in a@ state of bedevilled curtos ET ied feel that you are learning anything unless you are being of the armistice, Yesterday I put them to a woman The Adjutant's Office in Washington knows the answer to the | (mene. ice TO RRS err tare ae cet taeera: at erat anne ? who for years was a prominent figure in New York and 471 DNIGION riddle but they won't tell. It would spoil the game to let the s¢ ei WED se teoisign 7 may mento,has sprung a leak, do not waste any money on Mp. Boston society, and who has been, since the declarati The only wuy to get a partial solution is to ask the indiv aero THOUSAND Mme, Guilbe book, But if you are a talented, cons é aration (CAMP UPTON) i ; ndividual or stayice Steipes | | : i ‘RMSE of hostilities, one of the most tireless and efficient work a or what his particular set of hat, sleeve, shoulder and breast BLUE we | & cientious and ambitious young man or woman who ers for the victims of war. Indeed, Mrs, Nina Larry Duryea, President oo 5 ¥ wants to know how to sing @ gong, get it, read it all day, , : ‘ . RED o , Wart smewerry porwr F ‘ ; . and founder of the Duryea War Relief, has just returned to this country Write ? ir army and navy have a complete sot of their own, and the | and sleep with it under your pillow at night. For when ! te stimulate the activities of Der Of Qe : Frenob, in griteful recognition of metitorious service rendered by | you have mastered its precepts thoroughly you will know how to sing. Also, ganization Officials of ue ¥ gia eeuarte Weare oo Anipabwable {HAL HO our have added thelr beatiliful array of decorations to 70% ¥ ll know everything Mme. Guilbert can teach about rhythm, costume, Government told her before MS" | other retief id h@ vated eneral puzziement. You can imagine what the confusion will be lik the plastic art, how to create an atmosphere of the thirteenth century on 3 “y e the first to help us could reach devastate: és sion will be like y You Dutt ba frat to help Us YN | Northern France, the French Govern ewonsion when some tee SAAS OEE THULE HONGHE OUR Maya Will: Ibbx i ‘a6 concert platform of the twentieth century, how te eve “line” so as actu- ek be the to Mra. Duryon has | Northern Fr 0 French Covers LS DIAMOND STATE hn Ph pas paddled usithe HERE ene Gael Yankes*Dwision || ally to look the picture you have in your mind's eye. No detail is so min- been called the most decorated |), : i. o take up| | $$ Division whe ‘ and back and arm (NEW ENGLAND) || Wiyiee 4 seaplane , laeieei ea rave LL the first} ] REGULARS han nents have been honored by the French and the sign ve : | ute as to have escaped Mme. Guilber ervation, so that even if you - 4 no less than five war service | g.14, woma the battle « distinction is found in the citation cord, worn on the left DIVISION, | aycaboay (OW ab AutrANe: WIth nG:‘yoca) RIABILIONS, Ge JURt Fea from France, Russia, Bel iie qcd Somme, the Argonne and houlde bra and looped silk cord is worn by officers and = | nxious to look her best from every angle 1 cannot fail to pr Montenegro and the United | wyunt a toc 242 DIVISION men of the regimer is fastened to the shoulder button pa A al " BReBHioney f In the last four years and a a few persons,” she admitted DRAB under the arm. It has an ornamented gold t 4f a "A singer w r ‘ ata : : d gold point hang in fr e = c i pe fe a 4 short half she has clothed more than) ovo, a ne, ‘Ob techs the war j WHITE The correct name for the citation cord is La Fourragere, ; Furuse SP , me ‘ i 150,000 war ims and given food | , inves het We aS, RO BROWN When a regiment has been cited once the color 6 Fourre ‘ Mme er » First, a V and shelter to many others. nat Rhee (0 the. Franc 1, when cited three times it i ges e crow a ev k n and take luneh at the ' n cited three c is green and red, t ‘eats de Guerre $ * “Are women going to return to the | teoting inch at the Rita,’ But thi ors, when citec fine Saullggcnary } pak SUNSHINE lw es part of ; ng is not widespread am 1 six times it is yellow and green, the colors of tt Division status of mere omaments?” repeated | women, Most of the nai ; hla Millstais< lors of the (CaLitornia) / : mecha war >t , f 1 ilders, 4 Mra. Duryea, when I had voiced at | gorve," A cenit) RO haod bad @ pre " yeudw 4 me ‘success.’ But if you do ne a hn oand our 9 € The | h have also bestowed the Cri ; , i? Mere hrcs Was Hallet Moadudarterhs| '4 tamember.” beara: ve D tnt pe oe i ae also bestowed the Croix de Guerre, the Medaille ie possess the splendid voice? j sensa in inflat Bro, 9 Hast 80th Strect, the current! fore wo finally got int met Jey Wes ||| Oe write Fee See ne seein D'Honneur, When the medal is not worn toh ouve awel|| “Then you decide to be .{ "When you 3 anno scepticism as to whether in the pip- |told me New Yorkers ret 2) Rep, (es most unlikely) its proud possessor may wear either a barrette, a + ad pe NUR singer of songs,’ 4 ‘x0 casy.’ longer retain tt Ing times of pence young wom itl apigupplaa elasinp ont fi Lae " * URPLE ba or « button-hole marking in colors of the meJal, “ Bive “Because you igno Q he | Your chest, that is, let it itsel wealth and position will continue t¢ T dialikes (9: poee Bwe * DIK€" DIVISION The latest und most interesting decorations are eee aterpreta f the large dose of air you have gry cage, scrub floors and make them. | Cas Fe ee 3) Sa ate boys indicating the division to which Uney si eeu : }|| “To sing @ songz you mu + pe | absorbed, but very slowly, extremely selves useful genera “Oh, T have | will playing: ony th Aibiraia | ees on the streets now. They are worn just TREC aE ANGLIA ah \ either a soprano ‘ Yto, eithor wily, almost imperceptibly.” n very definite conviction about thats" av das eink 4s sega e| S58 DNISION Tua SAKES CISERE, BAA eBlnra:, Ohi a i Jer nd UV) 1 baritone, bass or tenor: you mit fler you have d nat every she exc ed carneatly ha wimablone’axtsava@andea and dni Surah was used to deceive the German int eral ins eatabllanine </ ai) © a soprano AND contra you as 1 ; fan hi Jn th reese not going to change, [lies of the butterfly life before the | [BASS what divisions were facing their men, ‘The metal collar n " 37% on 3H DIVISION Eye DATARS, BARS ANS) SADOP ct) wy ee Mercce they never have changed. | War.” 1 (res MET Melee GHIRe Beach ollar markings M DIVISION . ih of Jone breath which you t ofc | Circumstances have changed, not| "There will be no more of th Ae ey tg ly go the secret shoulder device was resorted to S zeta Ss a e eq Starting twenty-four me s of § | women, Before the war in Ame:ica| Mra. Duryea said decisively, “The | nen Ad as ‘one normally Madame Guilbert certain definite things wer ected | Women wil aan But la WNPtCEY) are in the same etate as the G ns when it comes to under. - s, are out of songe will do Mee ihe wore F ous | Will they en PAG Mee standin e marks but boys will proudly tell you. Many different Mada iuilbe 00k has a pe aN classes—and n¢ wa And chow iahouut theswomencin-the ones are to be seen now, but with about one hundre etn ite er on “Tow to I ate and Amplity supposed to be 9 ag hak arrest ig lingaswocdrn ve | c | heard from the guessing contest should run a ite remarks that retrial unk 8242 DIVISION ‘ fa gs are ju iv litue’ bridge play 1] they are e fade ants ae “AUG AMERICAN" device is symbolic of the State n which the bo¥s come, sometimes 90% DIVISION Nai . tion of she war? — "DRAB - GOLD yinbolic of the division’s nickname, such as “I . Ww (Texas & WILD. caT* Abo i4 w hance “[ do not!" she declared promptly. | THREAD STAR Cat,” “Keystone,” et sometimes, The ts aes atin ORMANOMA) DIVISION a " ar e | navihing: ¢ Con Thee ie: maw Wl have Thane tal AND CIRCLE Reel hn aa aap ee si i s, is fo unity, ma nale quently she was bored most of the themselve aaa nate. Top rait Be OH ane TRISTE ‘ ton, comprised of BLACK nar ; > "g ve ot ¥ tle 5 new ota They nto their design. si k ain i — many of he wn ‘ats y essed me moat in war work has | ‘he other day that he had taken on naficaanilone i Se eR hat ol vice V worn on the = | pros uae clings, all the t me ay A sul n s amen « tinguished é sition have he wan so satisfied with ‘he r| ane Ne vernon nt t arth (one for each wound), but the gold star worn Mme. Guilbert tejls how to ag- Ifa y meet a bod seized tt ance to be really usef W would neve ie acai GReen m conjunction with the service stripe is new and indicates the wearer ‘S187 DNISION Quire these voices, to use these colors. Avy not?) elned the chance tobe teal WHE Why a the uma ick to men. | ne wah of the firs 50,000 to go oversea. “The silver service V worn on Scanners) Sir ak aay PP IES Pi dean aia eee : “esa os a sy in i inn Ming Sing?” he asked. ‘Mont! 1 shill | ‘ACORN’ DIVISION i lett bmn Cone for each es menin service over re) is also well RED color the words of the song, that (Why not?) f de r efficient, practical freemen Caio a known, but to th now added a silver star his has been ¢ to say how to give eac vont g to others. Always excepting t i Jee aged ge Xt ; AA RCRA 8 SEReee SAD che the \ HEREC Vai i + WN t aan wore If a body kiss a body in our fighting forces, the women of | WON’ f woman, She must & Zi ' X worn on the left arm is a sign that the er Wa Ra Pa olen 4 (Why not?) America have been touched mort vow thout pay. And sh ta x ; Bina ne SFO BREAD, ae gisele iy Need a body cry? nore | wants t as that soldiers who hav 1 how to breathe, resp: on,” Mme i 1 ly by war than the men, The | _ eine hele sas have ady returned to civilian ( baetierit “Respiration ; You will se Mada Ibert obe h . og) ORES EER ng their markings on their mufti coats. | De es, tespiration is on ene man who stayed at home went down. ———---- So pease tee ce Ber 70M a | a question of cleverness, Everybody all the comic opportunities im towm and made more money thar . ee = : F the multiple colorations of those ‘Wh: ever before, then went to his Girls Beware he “egy ” ' ier — - | nots.’ y 3 an be ins cease Be ser iar ents tress tet, If aris in Endless Holiday Entertains tain amoun Substituted duties for pl y PI fi ° O . even an average Fg ol EI cae Soc Media yh, dre hah Continuous Procession of Potentates °°." well as her mon es e Arthu lodger Who Kr , epee or @ tragic d t nows Every Alibi in the * Bach , ” “H wie dran yn. Howe cipline, even end b é ‘achelors’ Manual. Kings » V + r 7 5 ver, to he able to ti comfort—all in or By Fay Stevenson rs rg gc ceca a ee gs May Come and Queens May Go, but Wilson Gets Biggest Ovations. ir it) com. spirit trauires a uous “Phat woman |s not pend| Comirisht, 1618; ty The I've Pablisiog wclety. of othe tvanise tne aiken Aaa By Margaret Rohe rather her sacks of sand, and blos growing more and| Fal gitt the rest of hi ‘ee up The New York when she ts faire aie : Specie! Corre ° The | 1 ou flags and ons of| 4 t Frocks ” y HERE ts a ce t w A wome n he t if The Uolted tree.) | 11 Poms ap 1 have en for ea de of the and down Fifth sis a cS a cer ype of man} Af Mm and fills her head | jy p am, the spirit) 2%, Kings and Queens and Cabbage all Allied colorings (ee emerged from the omic spi different ib not an espe ray one, ‘Take th many a se is not! Many a girl would marry the pra hace he frat) The last named one, you will agree, re ve t with bands, | brilliant tints of vividest dye see n her. His cal Of these great head i dy ray inc Semen on my committee, who are|® Villain, @ homewreckor ¢ van { tical, sensible man who so earnestly Jare 1 : thee mane @ vada, mont rare is, | bras , running alll at ADAG quiet and refined ea Meteo in i A parrenie : Abe: TORRE SCG AO SB SIRALY GOT Ioan BEG.) frequent. Finally ie Y ; At the restaurants and theatres/#ayety, It should produce what we i, Arad ‘: path, He 4 Pan a i “| ik f iu fa » “bob up and she HREB kit hg iy s fete Aviné Y N-| gleaming arms and shoulders are 1 so elegantly in French ‘le sourire winter, On the contrary, they are|"0 Much and yet so He is tt REMSrIROAR NIG LETT IGE TAR SEED eet [ a pertoctly good pat hand, but|!sertion run with var | Uyicomlng nte.thelr Oe Aenp du coin de la lévre’ (a amile at the sorking } un ever before man w 11h reles, He < w to live happily ever iba" ple an BOF nM ith Paria drawine vet another|pon® and for evening wear Paris] r out of it, in evening owns | Corner of the lip). And there > much to be done!" | "an iSe/ soil ahi iG ORBRLEREBRED Une reeiin 1 and apparently | ying oy two there mply no limit to] tually has gone so fa to takel. bib decollete, Dinner coats) Red is the color of farcical songs, interpolated Mrs, Duryea, "We say t : na hin bride, seems ime loniy two t Ps ere Fe! i. eame, though there may be a riot.|oUt 4 few of her Jew as among the men, like shy violets, are | Madame CGuilber She illus “The war ia over. Tho war for civil. | the sub) : ‘1 SIMGReRe peas BL) Une Gok eke cae hig » far the King and Queen of [has Clasped a neck Of ‘clectria | rere aparingly, ne r with. | trates her conception of the way the jan Evance has just begun—the war| Paint bea dow , nthe ota Saale: Su NINH BHAA OUIG TAA ane narrisk’ Montenegro, the King of England 3 Hghts around her throa it tastenes | {Ted beneath the cold, contemptuous |re4 d be interpre against the most grinding’ poverty, |9% Married an plow : Jate load her to puah jyouth, Marry « "d pened in Her ine King and Queen of the Belgians | hi of gicaming electric pendants nes of disapproval that met those | Prssa lad who d with the ho oyed and all th fas and and his girl | Meile & n - eT dub than! nave honored the city with their|!n her cars, but it is for that more few that dared appear ore |his Sunday best to so and j mmonest the home ty, | a8 the idea 1 ij. BD think hat the eirele tatker|’ Or . |royal presences, and now with the |{han-kir nt W At she urmiatica was signed 4 pa in themud a opens the tehen utensil 1 gone; | {PY failings of ev married ples, |has hi DOHBDIERt his ’ are always €X- King of Italy and the Kings of Serbia |>U he fla lory Altogether Paris is regaining al lor to him, gots up again, confused the war against tuberculosis ang! ?U! | “ w THEY could im mar y pels sora i Phere“ Are meh w need and Roumania popping in on us any [Of be ed r na, Pristine loveliness, sartorial nd nd humbled: iaahout to embrace hey, ther diseases always ly to acise| Pheve Upor nm Ot nen are] @mnounceme i dee alan Ua ine to battle with the world be-| minute, it's just one darn king after] Fhe von vd t erwise, Slowly but surely, da Fis ie nother appears and ence or blindness or iaval aa 1 Pee iit THEY Al ent One ine ain nip nor But such} somehow or other it's just a bit} hands of w ; 4 rap each suceceding kingly y baie leibitie feeblement er, T p THEIRS wil a : is F ibs agape M They do! pathetic to me, like falling leaves in| Of ¢ bulb dazzingly tland as they pass ¢ RICRICR. karat Purple song Madama Guilbert ner dren w arriage—and yet—with all] a felved) amount dn ihete Se itn They go to # autumn, or a so final of | tha jans can but he smiles serencly to ore he called formerly tmmobile fightin nin war. | “ his deacriy | bank verything will be clear|g parents, they give her an en-/a fast disappearing species of ani- a perhaps that soon wily songs—because no gesture, hardly any, Nerthern bran a burnt-out | it e t Alt h cath % ' ke thelr love} mal. Take buffaloes foy instance, only queen left in Burope. § *} co on of the voice~should indie section of the moon he 1 ai ary easly Th re use! oy the almost extinct vicunas. ‘ + up with| Paris still; as before.and always iy © the comedy, Their humor js im Besides her central clearing house |" ur perfectly self-evident It must make them dizzy to be un fe ¢ 1 1] secure ‘ ss | their meaning—their double meani . aring house r i awa MAnaiatns pe t i m wtiona ure and undeposed—the ete Re sd aningy in Paris Mra. Duryea has just estan. | MKing of \ aT EA RT eRe a iss rq und kinged 80 quickly too, Here's the Belgian, American,| Queen of Fashion. stl gies Reet & tig now one in Lille, When| 2 dubs” and the rear NPT ; } After 1 is as much a, poor old King Montenegro hardly 1 Portu- | oe é “The liste of the song should stttcca ia eee" marry and make tf a Laee * ete case of opt ya other con-| nicely settled in our midst when, zip, | suese, 8 nik " Even] WHY HE TRE not hear, but see, the raillery in yous A QUESTION OF ECoNomy, | TUPs anh ner pid Jens, But} must w raphy Nt And no sensit ullows albang! his throne chair's pulled right 1 wlan , “ Ae MBLED. eyes; you will accentuate purposely ae os ls os ns Miao roles spin 1 thie - up {olrcle talker to bar her from the/ from undor him ure more ‘ flow | Leta LAR SIARARE ajthe lack of meaning in your voice S one day, “I trust you den't|semin over the se 4 8 1} and the ‘ u trite ger {Crane a east Inst to nrove shelrentithosis to the! ore ane nas eae : pani nee eal Fou Tush be & oomigierasfrold, mane Sea atall Spur waa [again over t ‘ tra ie it bearer te of ephemeral fleetingness of an earilily) All the bu milling nd] any ; : haps it may be translated a cold store “That I don't,” replied. “I! pe, ae ' #! f A wh reign, however heavens xe makers a na pil re : ‘ 1 Pa W movotn | oRe:S amie only epend two Twosthirds ve i 1" pis ‘ - rh * ; to rain unces y andd kings ‘ we er out APE t gh aid on Vermilion, one from Made “And the thindewal , Fi i t ants He uc block ist a few day iding epee ee ld be clever | fail to queneh Parisian spirit Lavy r f i HN plied a varse, slapstick comedy-=grimaces of _* egg els th Bitann Palin” Helo : i ; nin tm For no inde gay in honor of nal fe) Jed another, “ie face as well as of voice, She doeg ‘ No, I do better than’ that wit) ROE Ginid And cula itihe ible 9x Te RES en IVA He Oe DF One IRE EBERT ; ‘ anda: for y FF Aptos toon ee ee ; emacs melee Sal SAL wit it. fr0b) of Cupid and suis off tho re Bub int ith cia (Rene muller, Hee: ta pverenina. Bhe makes a fore f Mm no matte Dra f : ' ane fare” {hs never been a vermilton artist house.” —Pearson' sApyeock! ink Ds ot FONE e bloom, her eyes lose their | himself (net in en bu O] WOAs Ober feEe My ee them.) 0 ABD OR vi bre Biacin, te tir sap I vlc cael oy shat ra he is the movt unfortunate epoch in! jusue and hey compleaion needs | alpnete cl has i oli les) but indsbe has donned her gala attire and, the vlaht narrow lin ational aisachial Lian teat diate a ee aM - + és ept to impoverished artist urd wor dotfed hor suckslot and ashes, os with us, all out of plumb, Mats are (own,’—Kanows City Journal, lee ae ee : \ : - Sd screen Teal