The evening world. Newspaper, August 15, 1918, Page 12

THURSDAY, What Will Squirrel-Man Do Without New Conservation Bans ? Filling ’em With Junk Being a Non-Essential In- dustry, Tailors Have Orders to Limit Their Sup- ply; Part of Wartime Fashion Note on “ What the Man Will Wear”’—Secretary Wry of Clothiers’ Association, in Session Here in New York, Dis- cusses Other Drastic Changes in Man’s “Liberty Wardrobe.” By Marguerite Mooers Marshall. Coprright, 1018, by The Press Publishing Co, 'T isn't enough that man has had to eat ham hash instead of beefsteak, corn-bread instead of hot rolls; that his “smokes” and his car are to de taxed almost American male, That is one of between them, Board, Dockets. Only three outside pockets apiece is the civilian male to have in his (Pockets still are one of the perquisites of military ser- Patch pockets are to be banished from fulllined and half-lined ‘The outside cash pocket, the outside @atchel and saddle-back pocket are not to be put on the new sults, hinted that the watch and handkerchief pockets will disappear for the Dew sack coat. vice.) Back coats. @uration of the war. All of which is a body viow to the boarders—not those under Mr. Hoo- vor’s disfavor, but ALL MBN. Per- @onally I always have belloved that man is descended not from the monkey, but from the squirrel. Men laugh at women because we have no Pockets—although they have been worn by women in the last year or two. But women are quite as justi- fied in their amusement at the pro- fusion of men’s pockets, most of which serve merely as “hide-holes” for useless and sometimes dangerous wesh. If man's pockets, for example, were not a continual invitation to him e them correspondence file, how many happy homes might have escaped destruction! No man's wife Feads the letters he doesn't carry in Bis pockets. ‘There's just one patriotic way by Which the civilian can preserve his pockets undiminished in size, num- Der and flaps. He can wear a suit made up last year, For every suit tarned down by an over fastidious customer because it has deen “in stock” a few months helps to keep Just so much wool out of circulation. “What will be the ‘wartime note’ in men's clothing?” | asked Chagles E Wry, Secretary of the National Asso- tation of Retail Clothiers, “The chief style note is simplicliy,” he replied. “The Government has asked us to cut out the furbelows and we are going to do it if we can save six inches on each sult of men's @lothes the total saving will amount to hundreds of thousands of yards of the wool that ts so precious to our army. “In making up new material we AUGUST 15, t of his possession; that his wife is running two | canteens instead of one happy bome. the Kaiser yet one more sacrifice ie demanded of the He must conserve on pockets! National Association of Retail Clothiers have decided The Association is planning to-day at the Hotel McAlpin “what the man will wear,” and \s working most patrictically along the lines laid down by the Conservation Division of the War Industries “Bave the wool,” of course, is the slogan, and among the appenda, Gively must be deleted by the sartorial censor are the harmless, unnecessary 1918 the Pockets | (The New York Evening Worl.) In order to finish the things which Uncle Sam and the, of masculine apparel which post bellows pocket, the Tt te have planned to eliminate all unnec- essary bits of cloth—cuffs on the sleeves, flaps on the pockets, belts, extra wide lapels, ‘Tho sack coat will not be allowed to follow its tendency to grow longer. Clothes will gt as snugly as possible.” “How about the military influence in styles?” I asked. “The older mon ike a little of that,” admitted Mr, Wry. “Of course the younger ones are in the army, And the man who wears a suit which strongly suggests a uniform without being enrolled in his country’s do- fenee must meet continually the ques- tion, “If you'want to dress like that why don't you enlist?” “T wish,” concluded Mr. Wry, “that you would tell people not to let the! Profiteers scare them into buying-| more clothes than they need with the threat that there will be a shortage later on. That emphatically is not the cane, And the way to send up the price of clothing unduly is to play the } “or—buy more than you need for immediate use." Men always are wo ready to tell women how to dress that I hope | t \ H \ will not object if we suggest still fur- ther conservation clothes Why not eliminate Cont tails? Derby hats? Vests in sum.ner? Long trousers? Why not wear— Swiss mountaineer jackets? Felt hats? Knee breeches? For that matter, the native Amert- for their new cin WRs Well dressed in one blanket, — Advice to Lover: | By Betty Vincent Y dear girls and young men, when you are away vacation th whom you must not forg That person is your to write In an mother earlier article I warned you that you probably would regret promising every easual acquaintance to Jet him or her on your 4s one person to | said many times that he does not see | “But this young man has what I call a retrospective jealousy, He has {how @ man can marry a girl when he is not her first love. Hoe declares that no man wants a girl whom another fellow hos kissed. He thinks that the ideal situation is when a girl waits hear from you while you are away. patiently until the right young man But of course you should write your |appeara and then obediently falls in| mother once or ofte depending on | jove with him and consents Oo be the length of your and teil aa her that all is well with you and just absence wife “That may be ideal, but I do not what sort of a good time you are hay- fing. No one is 80 interested. No one | IMK tt very practical to-day, when has a better right to hear. It ts nat- | People are marrying later and later wral for mother to worry a bit when | Jt 9 happens that years bofore I you are away from the family hearth, | et MY flance I thought myself in and you should save her just as much |12¥® With another man. In fact, we anxiety es possible by not making her | WCF? OMBaKed for a short me. Then} wait until your return for a full ace | 2° did something very dishonorshie, which opened my eyes to the fact th; Qount of all your merry doings. - at “Also u letter to mother will make |! ‘id not really care for him, so the ? you Femember mother’s standards of | %*4sement was broken, 1 never have told this story to my present fiance. Ithough, as he never saw this man, jhe has assumed that love, I have not had behavior, mether's notion of what is “nice,” and so serve as a check to care- Jess irresponsibility. he is my tirst * ° to tell iA Confession. \iealaeat signee bel aceon } “T. B." writes: “I am confronted | blank if there ever was any other by @ great prob and I shall ask | man? What shall I say? you to settle it for me, I am very| My dear, the young man has no j Much in love with a © “ain young | right to put you through @ post mor- fman, who, 1 think, cares deeply for | tem yniess he is willing to submit to act, he has asked me t me. t one himself. If he ever puts a diroet ‘marry him and I have said yes. He | question to you, look him in the eye fe earning & good salary, upon which | and say: “I am willing to tell you all a se WW \\ \\ \ “Low Visibility’ THEY’RE EASIER TO LOOK AT BUT HARDER TO FIND THIS YEAR, EXCEPT WHERE BRIGHT ARE EMPLOYED. COLORS f 1 CONSERVING wooLt THE NEW EXCUSE [FOR WEARING ONEs > 4 Bathing Costumes IF WE MUST SAVE CLOTH. WHY NOT IF APHRODITE” COULD SEE HERSELF RISING FROM THE SEA Save Cloth a The Beach Flappers Are Doing Thei nd Win the War r Bit by Not Wearing a Bit—A Surf Bathing Suit Consists Mostly of Surf—Enough Cloth Is Saved in a Long Beach Swim- ming Regalia to Make a Tent for Ringling Sisters’ Big Circus. ° BY ARTHUR (“BUGS”) BAER Copyright, 1918, by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Evening Worl.) ting a stropg play from the lady beach rabbits. The more ¢ i 3 phants, 8.12 commuter at 8.11, He Government's squawk for conservation of cloth is sure get- | A cloth census of New York's beaches wouldn't collect enough Don't Point, N. J loth | a registered letter turns out to be the wife of a a citizeness saves, the more patriotic she is. And the soprano Yorker. When notified by telegram, he said he would divorce batherines ‘are leading the patriotic league. Each one saves enough | only she is the only claim to exemption that he's got. cloth on her surf trousseau to make winter vests for eight circus ele | oe his fami!y makes no demands, and his | about my past love affairs if you wish Prospects of advancement are excel- | to tell me all about yours.” Tell if he Bent. Appar y all is qlear sailing’ telle—otherwise, keep your own coun- fer us. eel, } ‘al {) comes off THURSDAY, AUGUST 15, 1918 '$5,000-a- Y ear Longshoremen Now Rank as Plutocrats Of the N. Y. Waterfront They’re Getting Rich Quick by Juggling Explosives’ “it Instead of Stocks and Have Joined the “Income || Tax Class” of the City’s Financiai Aristocracy,and , Very Soon They’ll Be Making Even More Money. Copyright, 1018, by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Evening World,) l¢ ‘| a Mike, have a quart of that extra dry cooled for lunch.” Friend reader, this is not a war profiteer speaking, nor @ magnate of big business, but almost any longshoreman who an ammunition ship. Internal Revenue Collector William M. | Edwards found the other day, when he was looking about for material to | swell Uncle Sam's war chest, that a considerable number of New York's {| longshoremen are making from $3,000 to $5,000 a year, and immediately set out to collect the government's tithe. Most of these men had not made income tax returns. Very few knew anything about such matters, and the majority of the fortunate ones had kept no record of their earnings. But | they have responded handsomely since Mr. Edwards gave them the bad i] news. It is no uncommon thing these days for a stevedore to stand in line with a banker at the internal revenue window. And often he pays a fee that jolts the banker. If reports may be believed, there is a growing ¢}) demand along South Street for Havana's choicest weed, and automobile 334 | waterfront the requirements are sim- GET SUBSTITUTE SUITS The blond cuckoo who has been crashing this ocean resort in a red bathing suit that makes her look like a stamp on prominent New her Ivory Head, Maine.—If the chickens at this place are wearing any material to thread @ needle with, Yea bo. And you notice that the bathing saits, they must have ‘em concealed in their shoes. birds who were too near-sighted to join the army are all holding dowa | 8 the orchestra seats along the route of the contralto beach parades Stupid Bay, L. I—The beach constable lamped @ brunette in a one You never hear of a seashore resort being bothered by moths. A | piece bathing suit. He ordered her to take 4t, off. moth is a wise cracking bird, He always goes where there is some- ae. thing to eat. ‘There isn’t enough cloth along the beaches to give a Useloss Harbor, Conn.—All the frails in this burg are wearing moth indigestion even if he Was a fast eater and gulped his eats like an | those instalment surf outfits with edovt 63 instalments sti)l due, jsalesmen now frequent that thoroughfare instead of Broadway. Young ;} gentlemen secretaries who can figure these pesky income returns also j | should apply. For it keeps a hard-working longshoreman busy just to ‘| count his money. In case you are an underpaid cap- italist and would like to get a share | of the big money earned along the the rest of we mortals. They re- ceive 50 cents an hour for a nine hour day, 75 cents an hour for night work, and $1 an hour on Sundays. ‘|ple. You need merely be able to! A week's pay at the regular dally rate : i lift a few hundred pounds dead | thus amounts to or $40.50 for night weight, to work in the sun for un-| work. By adding nine hours on Sunday the total may be brought to $36 or $49. But the man loading ammunition ships is not restricted to any paltry sums for his daily toil. He receives just double the prevailing rates for ordinary stevedore work, A nine- {limited hours and perhaps to handle | |explosives without blowing yourself to kingdom ec For it is the men who load the ammunition ships that are making princely incomes, One hundred dollars a week is not un- [common for that service. Of course |you must be prepared to do your bit|hour day means $9, or $13.50 for the | before receiving the money. Probably |same number of hours at night. Nine {you will not be asked to work more | hours on Sunday nets $18. Anything than thirty hours at a stretch. But if| under $50 a week is a mere pittance jthey are in a hurry to get some bis|for the stevedore on an ammunition | ship away—and these men always are|/ship. He usually labors long hours : jin a hurry—your trick may lengthen|at a time. Ammunition ships are out to forty-elght hours, It is a trifle |loaded down the bay, and he cannot warm in the hold of a ship just at/run over to the Bankers’ Club for this season, but no doubt you will be| luncheon. Instead he goes to his cooled by thought of the money to|work for a day or two at a time, come, even when a thermometer 1s|making from $25 to $50 before he re- ashamed to register the temperature. |turns, It is said that some of ‘the | The stevedore who juggles boxes|more provident men have gained of ammunition with an ease that|small fortunes since we entered the might frighten the timid is the|/war. They are buying Liberty Bonds real aristocrat of his vocation. Only| with their surplus, and doing the ithe most expert men are accepted |work of patriotic citizens at a hard, for that work. They must be Ameri- |exacting task cans par excellence, And usually they ‘or is this the only good news for are fine specimens of muscular man-|the man who may quit the banking hood. ‘These men have been picked | business to become a longshoreman, from the 25,000 longshoremen em-|The present schedule of wages ex- ‘ployed in New York harbor, a few | Pires Sept. 30, and it is probable that from each of the fifty-four local| the men will obj a substantial in- ! jcrease, They at the advancing juatons. cost of living ely met by their larger earnings—especially wages like| must divide now with Unc ‘By far the larger number of steve- work for ordinary since they Sam, dores Open Rai fos Buyers Now; They Like a Warm Time in New York | By Bruce Copeland. jot becoming an underground journal. | x : with | it) But none of them will admit to © dneen't ssem very oonerious |the boss that he saw moro than the war economy for je buyers tO] st veg, pick the hottest month of the year) ‘Aria tooking over the new styles in which to burn up the town, but if/tne puyer packs away a banquet that ’ all the buyers who have come to toWN| woulda make Belshazzar's feast look this week were to exchange their) ji. gratig lunch. Then he buys bim- Palm Beach suits for the regulation] soir a eront row stall at the “Follies trench pajamas it wouldn't be nec-| ang ogies the performers for all he's essary for bachelors with dependents) worth which usually would choke an‘ to expose their respective pasts JUSt} ox Arter the theatre you may find because the draft ago limit was|him buying everything on the menu ralsed to forty-five. at a roof garden where the viands are higher than they are above the street. Back home the > The buyers have a great deal more to buy 'n Summer) buyer may exist than in winters) on @ paltry 30 per, although you/put in New York can't make @ wom- jhe is @ million- an pelieve that) gire-for-a-day or summer furs make long credit of the boss is good. Occasionally they a week or al the friend husband | 5 sweat both ways! Tin [iN ——— | Junk Haven, L. L—If the cloth saving bug keeps going for a buy as many The score by innings while longer, the Junk Haven beach dolls will be wearing no-plece |tnem in operation when he is think-|things as the de- Exorbitant Beach—A flapper busted into the beach mob to-day bathing suits. They are almost down to zero now. ing how delightful it would be if the} funce Government, but in clad in a blizzard proof lavalliere and wearing a deep sea bathing cos- £2 law allowed him to resist the heat) this case everything ig delivered as tume consisting mostly of deep She was given three cheers and | Souse Channel.—Beach flappers {n Souse Channel aren't wearing ‘|in public witb naught but beoveedees| fast as the hand can supply the a barrel. | buttons on their swimming frocks hecause there ain't any room to | between him and the humidity, | mouth, 2 gag ‘ann Gn: : Every crossroads emporium that ts| ‘Phe buyer will haggle all day over Chicken Farm, Wrong Island.—A lady weighing at least 400 quarts rene too enterprising to walt for the drum-|the price of poau de sole or satin tried to crash the surf {na pint bathing costume, Her husband paid | Gipper Gap, Penn.--The most stylish thing in bathing suits seen | Mer to come along with bis line) cheesecloth, but when night comes ( (mostly he-cow) despatches a buyer| he'll buy a steak body and soul, the her fine. If the navy wasn't confiscating all the binoculars this would hero was a yard of freckles worn over @ northwest breeze, The |(™ Now york to view e-season| price of which would make Harry be an ideal place to spend t Sheriff has gone to New York to get his spectacles polished, styles, see the sights and tuy a few] Lauder roll a whole alphabet of “ra : - mm catalan of them, Some buyers have been| And immediately thereafter, he'll pop ‘te about ten minutes Remove fro When cooking fruit add a little salt,| coming to New York since they|{UCon 80 yi Nr Hib be Ae bine The Housewife Ss Scrapbook. oven, make an indentation In top of| You will not have to use as much| vharged double fare to 42d Street and) tact that he is the best customer ie HITE canvas shoes are readily {coverings, Tho shops aro showing| each potato with the bowl of a tea-| sugar and the flavor of the fruit will . P, Shonts conceived the idea| the house W cleaned with the bon ami used | attractive table sets in pretty de-|spoon, Fill the impression with the| be improved. ya $$$ pial st. ke or cleaning. Rub it on the|signs and patriotic housewives are| stiffly beaten whites. Return to oven] \., ee . shoes with @ wot brush or rough|adopting them for general use. | and when brown serve at once, « W2en ne mrind Dreadorumbs hold What Causes Wrinkles? cloth apd Sry ip she sup Sbnaale To remove grease stains from| If your baking tins seem burned be-|catch the crumbs that otherwise ape cee agua roe Lh He Reber DAGHRD nen Bnd: Rtbentten to aint SHON first be removed w Jeather apply the beaten white of an | yond repair do not wesie inne, with would scatter over the table, W pee afte is to scowl and|right, When people pessm. nates Before throwing away old shoes cut | °# paces json - ‘ akin pose Lo eee! If you have sandwiches left from| frown and get into the habit of doing |are apt to lose the fat which has ace off the tops and use them as lnings| stale bread can be dried in the oven | {"* Will hi me clean without being) 16 picnic lunch, save them for next|this. When you scowl or frown you| cumulated under their skins, If they for iron and pot holders, and ground in the meat chopper scratohed Metaecy day's meal, If the filling is of meat,| pucker up the skin on your forehead had taken the right amount of Pin a towel to your apron belt }cop the crumbs in a glass jar and| ‘To ‘save ice wrap It in newspaper.| place the sandwiches in the broiler| into wrinkles, and If you continue the /sereise all of their lives and Kept [while cooking and baking. It willl you wit) nave them at hand to take| This is more effectual and far more} and brown both sides, Serve with}habit the skin on your forehead | their cireulation perfect in all parts gave you many steps. line place of flour in cooking | sanitary than a cloth 2 cream sauce poured over, and if any|makes the wrinkles permanent, You) of the body re would have been ; — hard-boiled eges are left they may be|have given your skin the wrinkle |no fut there, Hut when the fat a When baking apples fill the core) a novel way to use cold mashed| Drain pipes will not clog so readily| used as a garnish, The plain bread |habit. cumulates it makes the skin grow cavity with raisins. It will save sugar) 1 i464 is to mix the potatoes with| if you lay a piece of newspaper over| and. butter sandwiches can be sprin-| In old people, however, wrinkles |!" on jen Wien the fat aie nd teeta Sallcions the yolk of an egg, form into balls| the sink strainer | when you pour) kled with grated chee and then |come more naturally, ‘There it Is the the skin 1a too large und ‘arkeatals Fo wave linen use olf cloth tableland bake in a hot oven until toaated, ease of the akin not receiving the| wrinkles, yes the brown, ‘tyreasy liquid into the sink. frente