The evening world. Newspaper, July 6, 1918, Page 11

: i JULY 6, 1918 Grandma Loved a Gay Tune, And Liked to Dance It Too, | Old Song Hits Now Reveal, Back in the Forties They Sang Songs Just as Frivol-| ous and Wore Clothes Just as Queer as You Hear and See To-Day—And the Girls Were Not Half So Solemn Then as the Old Folks Have Always, Claimed. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall HE next time grandma tells you that “they never did euch things when I was « ¢trl,” the next time grandpa shakes his head eadly over the frivolities of a generation which smokes cigarettes and ‘wears short skirts—even though ariently willing to die for its country tn @ hospital or on a battlefield somewhere in France—look your revered ancestors sternly in the eye and ask them if they have quite forgotten the fads and follies of the Funny For- ties. Then jog their memortes @ bit by quoting some of the titles and choruses of the pieces of popular music dating from that distant era and now being cata logued and chortled over at the Harvard College Library. | This unique collection, this road map of all the little winding ways of human mischief and light-mind- edness some three-quarters of a century ago, has been presented to Harvard by Bvert J. Wendell, '82, and includes, besides the popular music of an earlier day, Diays, playbills, books, pamphlets and portraits. There are some 40,000 pieces of sheet music alone. This forms perhaps the most interesting item fn the whole exhibit, for although they had no cabarets back in the Funny Forties, or even in the Naughty Nineties, they had the modern passion for making more or less topical “song hits” about every political, social and sartorial fashion of the moment. And those who have studied the Wen- dell collection most closely declare that it Is an awful give-away for our sainted forebears! | Woudn't you think to bear grand- | ~ Te ma deciaim a year or so back about |lairs"—“What's the use of having a that disgusting debutante slouch af- | pretty petticoat if you can't show it fected by her youthful granddaugh-|Grandma’s youthful contemporary ter—wouldn’t you feel convinced that| had no motor car or even trolley car ramrods had nothing on grandma for| into which to climb, but she did her dignity and erectness in her youth?|best with the means at hand and No longer may she sustain an un-| Skipped across the brook from step- deserved reputation for an impecca-| ping-stone to stepping-stone with the bie posture. One of the gems of the | petticoat flying like a banner of chal-| Evert Wendell collection is “The|!enge. Two Johnnies are watching in-| Famous Grecian Bend; Song and | terestedly from the nearer bank—ob, Chorus," dated 1870. The words are)My, my! Likewise, fle, fie! by Martin Meyer, the music by John} That other sartorial scandal of by- Molter and the lyric was published | gone days, the bloomer, was a gold mine to the composers and song writ- ers In the Harvard display are many) sheets of music dedicated to Mrs. Amelia Bloomer, designer of that cos- | tume, which we to-day consider sinful | only in its ugliness, Also William Hall & Son of New York published in 1851 the Bloomer Waltz, and at about the same time appeared the Bloomer Polka, Schottische, Quadrille Election betting is another ancestral folble which was given prominence in the best selling melodies of other days. | Rashly, Major Ben Perley Poore of Newbury, Maas, bet on the Massa- | chusetts Presidential vote with his friend Col. Robert Burbank—and | Major Ben lost. So “The Wheelbar- row Polka” was dedicated to him, and | he is pictured on the cover trungling a wheelbarrow loaded with a barrel | of apples to Boston, thirty-six miles | | away. Even our slang seems to have come down to us from the good old days when—to hear them tell it—they spoke only the purest Queen’s English. “This is the life!” you proclaimed fervently the other day—or night. But in 1860 appeared a lugubrious lyric, entitled “The Octoroon,” after the famous book and play of the same; name. Herein the heroine, watching|{ SATURDAY, | ‘The Grecian Bend On the ve, ap by Root & Cady of Chicago. title page is a picture of a simper wasp-waisted female with what pears to be a young balloon attac to her waist at the back. Raised on heels at least four inches high, car-| rying a parasol fully twelve inches long, sie is posed at almost the ex act angle of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. A small boy and a small dox are registering uproarc appreciation from the side this is the chorus of the piece: A moral does this song contain, Which, ladies, you'll enshrir Thero'a but one bearing that becomes | The Human form divine | Now don't look cross! 1 shall keep quiet, For fear I might offend But walk erect, no more assume That naughty Grecian Bend. y amused And nes. Fit companion for the Grecian Bend} of grandma was the Roman Fall of grandpa. It really was a copy of the! Grecian Bend, only grandpa wore it in that sector of his anatomy just below his collar and just above his belt. According to a picture of him on the cover of a sheet of mu- sic now to be seen ut Harvard, grand- ‘The pa looked like the wolf who came to “ : the little pig's house and huffed and Roman Fatt puffed until he blew the house in—or| “——— nil like Aesop's frog who tried to awell a jollification of her humbler and to the size of a bull. And this is the darker rel ves, carrols the following | refrain of the song about aim; | chorus ( The Roman Fall, the Roman Fall, “1 see their g. Away That graceful arch, the Roman Fall, | with teags ar eir joy I The wonder of the age I call | would be try 4s! tis not for me The swell’s own walk—the Roman} to mir with se, never, myscif | Fall from all to sever, The tainted strain I know a dear old lady who forever: This is the life for me fully orders lengthened the skirt of > = ev-ey dress she buys, and who le EGYPT PROBABLY HAD BALL patyed and grieved whenever a grown- | TEAMS, | W YORK'S basebal interested to fans" will that of the} up girl in a li 1 skirt woos by KE the house, Nevertheless, in that N lady’s youth, one of the most pop Egypt is the birthplace ular bits of dance music was “The original ball game. How it was Bearlet Petticoat Polka,” a copy of |Played history does not record, Re- which may be found in the Evert J, |cent excavations made near Cairo Wendell collection. have brought to light a number of | ‘The frisky damsel on the cover of |*Mall balls, some of leather ard ot ns °. be know "1 A of wood, dating back to at least that “befo’' de wah" composition evi- B,C, ‘These are the oldest balls @onuly agreed with “Sweet Kitty Bel-lthis sort known. ET =< Met N With the American Army in France NINTH OF A SERIES OF SKETCHES DRAWN “OVER THERE” BY P. D. BROWN, U. S. A. cS lt Ready rec a Baeenc, ee our COpTright 1718 Orem Pubtshing Oo OTT Brening Wort) desexapeton CAG May setergatharey The Well Known Profiteer Family The Profiteer Cackles When a Hen Lays an Egg, Because He Knows the Hen Gets None of the Profits, and the Lossiteer Must Stand All the Losses. When a Lossiteer Wants a Dozen Eggs the Profiteer Soaks Him One Dozen Times for the Same Egg. Copyright, 1918, by The Prom Publishiug Ov, (The New York PKUFITEER 1s a bird who cackles every Ume a hen lays an ¢ A A profiteer is uncle to the grabbiteer. BY ARTHUR (* ng World) A grabbiteer Is a goof who will only sell things on sunshiny days so that he can charge you for the shadow, The grabbiteer ts cousin flivver free to of charge and only charge everybody knows that a flivver is all trimmings The trimiteer ts soakiteer is The city War garden in which he Century-Old Myste brother to the soakiteer you double for a doughnut and then soaks you triple for the a pal of the janiteer, raises nothing t the trimiteer. He will give you a you for the trir And hole He fs the janiteer of a t the r Vanished on Victorious Cruise of the lops 1 ystery the vrancé Cy insolved HE recent [ Americ er of the sea, the of r Wasp, 4 Dur vanishing of-w little more than a century ago, ing the War of 1812 th sel set sail for Wuropean waters, and Jin the months t followed word came back of brilliant victories over the enemy's ships. Then the r peare 1 from that day no trace of her has ever been found. It was in May, 1814, that the Wasp | b put out to sea on her first and final cruise, In command was Capt. John- ston Blakeley, Irish born and spoil- ing for a fight. He was then in his thirty-third year, He had come to America as a boy and entered Uncle dam’e pavy at eighteen, ank of midshipman, Whon the sec ond war broke out between th wae 4 in command c the En erpr an t alla won fe hin the command of the Wasp when that vessel was ready to put to sea The Wasp, che by patriotic landamen and ea f lish brig her two An erican sailors w taken to Hngland from {i was the last exploit of the r Wasp, Since that day she been heard from, An earlier Wasp of the American navy was built at Washington in 1806 and commanded by Capt, Jacob Jones, In October, has never 1812, she captured the British brig Frolic, and later was herself captyred With the by the British ship Polotiers, ‘BUGS”) BAER, | The janiteer is related to the contractecr | lob who makes 60 much money on one war that to start one of his own. he The lossiteer is the stepchild of the profiteer, The profiteer cackles when @ hen lays an egg, the hen gets none of the profits and the lossiteer my losses, When a lossiteer wants a dozen eggs, the pro one dozen times for the same egg. a dozen afl right. But The lossiteer get not The lossiteer must also pay for the cackle, even 1 mus The contracteer ts the has enough coin vaauise le knows ust stand all the viiteer souks him f he doern’t like \\ a.» SATURDAY, In War By Mrs. Ve HE sleeveless age has been one i sleeves, and I think you will | she seams to be “bulging out” of | the top of her bodice, and if she is particularty thin there are hollows |or protruding bones which, far |from being attractive, are more often an eyesore. Besides this, one will often see huge vaccination marks near the shoulder, which are just as much of a scar and blemish ; 48 an operation or an accident would leave, though many people seem most Indifferent about letting them be seen. Any sort of drapery or the least | bit of tulle or chiffon over the | shoulders is a tremendous asset, | and adds greatly to the charm of an | evening dress. In the last few years |most dressmakers seem to have thought that all they had to do for the bodice of a dress was to wrap some sort of material tightly around the bust (giving @ very hollow-chested, {ll-formed appear- ance) and tack two dangerously skimpy straps over tho shoulder to hold it up. ‘This, to my mind, in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred, has proved unbecoming, and L shall | to sleeves once more. r stage appearances it ts a dif- ferent matter, because une has lights jand powder to enhance one's beauty, and also the audience can only look on from a distance, which always ids enchantment,” but I think the naked one appears at a dinner lo or at a party where one's dress as to bear close serutiny and one's \defects may bo the more easily dis- cerned, the better. Most women should be at their best in evening dress. There are, of course, a few types to whom the walking suit or street costume is more attractive, but that may be only because the woman wears her hair badly, and therefore looks prettier in a hat. | Evening dresses should be dainty, youthful and, above all else, clean Many people who ure otherwise seomingly neat about t!olr persons cm to think nothing of wearing an Jevening dress over and over again to dinners, dances, &c., without having it cleaned or freshened up, when, as 4 matter of fact, the pale colors and A Good Jo HEN Noah Webster defined the W “busi as the state of boing “actively engaged in something that engrosses the atten- tion” he had a good idea, Had he been | privileged to spend half an hour in | the office of the Woman's Division of lithe United States ployment Agen cy at No, 22 East 22d Street he would probably have made the definition stronger, It has been said often aad again that this is @ “woman's war,’ and the patriotic enthusiasm of the girls and women who come to the agency for war work seems to place this statement on the right side of the m ledger. ‘4 Division le tracted word ale, 's Division of the United States Department of La- bor, whose business sense, sympathy and broad sense of humor make her vn idea! incumbent, Mra, Neale 1s ibly aowtsted by @ corps of “Ficid Marshals’ who have become imbued hor spirit. The agency is placing ween three and four hundred girls To Fight Against Enemies of Vic Ege LOUIS NAPOLEON, grand | brother, hew of the great Emperor| Bonapartist pretender to the impertal s that it Is her wish that war es- a tra soldier hrone ance Prince Vietor and be treated as the paramount forced to remain while al Prince Ls Are di nts of the! jemue, and so most of the positions of Burop at war. He wa | Emperor's brother Jerome. Prince red have a direct connection with officer in the Russian Army | Lous Is a ba r past fifty years, It| Government newessities, Any woman held the of Major General, but| has been alle that he has n fa-| who applies can certainly be placed | when hostilities commenced he was on| vored a nis elder brother by the] in @ position that will help the men | | leave of a e from his regiment and | ex-Er ente and that her for-| «over there For some unknown was bot permitted to resume command, | tune estimated at $15,000,000, may go] reason a large number of the ap- | Under the French law wendants of |e him. | plicants assume that because they former reigning families are forbidden | rrey fre ian rey Tye | are going into war work they will be « in her army or navy, and . bad id unusual wages, As a matter of Hussia, because of her close re ts pressing Reed for! race the suls connected with the HINA, in lations with France, placed Lo C “ieee 7 der the ban, He then appealed to other | ig ne nee t the Allied nations, but each declined | his services, The Prince ts the son of the late Prince Napoleon, who died in 1891, and the Princess Clotilde, sister of the late King Wumbert of Italy, His older 9 un- | within the empire. the Celestial PUR cy Wl Alles Still ee Plas of Louis Napoleon | own choosing, and at the same ind women each day in positions of iking them happy | Wwnite Mrs, Neale has on her cal- France endar many positiang that have no tor Napoleon, Is the | hearing on the war, the agency real- n fac restoration of it f canals, of whic there were at one time 60,000 miles is con- sitions offered range fram $10 to $50 a week and remuneration for 4) work, as it always has bean in every industry, depends entirely upon the 8 Centuries before | wyiity of the individual. the Christian era the great rivers of} Empire from their natural courses to form | P° these ancient waterways, were diverte: At the present time the agency re- rts a shortage of bookkeepers, good [vei wood stenographers, dicta | JULY 6, ‘be glad when the general public takes | Superin- | 1918 ‘Women and Clothes. Times rnon Castle Sleeveless Gown Unbecoming The fourth of a series of articles prepared for Even.ng World Readers by America's most copied woman in the matler of dress of sore trial to me. For the past two or three years the majority of evening dresses have been without agree with me that in most cases @ sleeveless gown ts hideously unbecoming. The underarm has never been an attractive part of woman to bare in public. If she is inclined to be stout delicate trimming of an evening frotle make it most perishable, and a great eal of care should be taken to see that that tulle or lace, if there be any, is fresh and clean, and ali stains removed after each wearing. Those who prefer the heavily beade ed and d “snake charmer* dresses (as I always called them) seem to forget that the beads drop off with every we , and this type of dress particularly will need great care to keep its freshness, and its life will (or should be) shorter than that of any other rtyle of evening dress. I have seen net dresses, heavily embroidered with beads or sequins (many of which have been lost off), with the net drapery or over-dreas hanging lfelessly, stretched all out of shape by the weight of the trim- ming. This is something every one should guard against, as it takes all the charm and elusiveness away from what should be our “prettiest mo jment ad | Gold and stlver:laces are also tm jadvisable, as they tarnish and so bee come shabby. Lesides, they are apt to be a little too heavy looking to be becoming to the average woman. (Convrigut 1918 by The Bell Armdicate, tea) span, Any Wonss ‘Who Wants b Need Only Ask Her Uncle Sam | phone operators, comptometer opera | tors, skilled operators on metal and textiles, munitions workers, yt factory girls and ward maids, Also i= |the gas mask factories and on the | power machines in war manufacture ing plants there ts a demand for the clever woman, It has been proven through expert- ence that in many nes the women | who are doing the work formerly performed by men have shown as | aptitude and given results that lead the employment agency to betleve that they should have been employed jalong these particular lines long |since, In the manufacture of een itain war materials the dexterity of the hand, coupled with the quickness f the fingers, plays @ great part. In Mrs. Neale affirms, the women xecel and have made « distinct tale ression on many employers, : | While everything is business an@ strictly business in the Womaa’s Division, those who are doing the | work of enrolment find time to weed out the pathos and humor from the jsene ral routine, Many anecdotes are told of those who apply for positiogs to help Uncle Sam. But a short time ago a young, petite mademoiselle ape plied for work in a munitions factory, She was interrogated as to her cocg@e |pation at that particular time | “I am a musician,” she sald Ja play the violin and plano,” | “And what makes you think that you would be fitted for work in @ munitions factory?” she was asked. | “Well,” she replied, “I thought that | because of my delicate touch I migaé be useful in handling the powder,” The young Miss was informed that |a longshoreman could shovel powder with a wooden shovel providing he did not smoke when on duty, she | decided to go back to music. Another young woman applied for work in a shel! factory, When whether she was afraid to work im @ lace where high explosives Randled, she replied that she ‘be in less danger there than at home, because ber husband was @ prise= fighter and flirted with Bacchus, Seheererereagees \t