The evening world. Newspaper, December 13, 1916, Page 19

‘4 || Evening World’s Figure By Paulin Copyright, 1916, by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Drening WoMd), DEVELOPING EXERCISE NO. XXIV. For Description Read To-Day’s Lesson, Improvement Contest Diet and Exercise Lessons in New Courses for Stout | | Women Who Wish to Reduce and Thin Women j Who Desire to Develop Their Figures. e Furlong end Nea e ee eae aaacaarl Developing Course. To-day’s lesson concludes The Lesson XXIV. Evening World's Figure Im- Provement contest. The names both the thin and the stout Dosition, places @ tension upon| } women's classes will be pub- the muscles of! } tished in next Monday's Evening the back and the World, together with their pho: back of the neck, tographs taken at start and fin- and this tension ish of the contest and tables naturally brings showing weight and measure- | large, flat mus-| $ Ment changes of all contestants cles, which brace| $ Whe finished the two courses of 3 | the abdomen, into} ? ard 3 f play. The throat and neck exer hoe Bermanent the resulte fa either the developing or reducing Werld’the reguite bi ong Gontest wi e announ Sion, because these are the first | coo cmpanying todays lessen’ parts of body to show signs of @eperting youth. Many women whose are entirely free from fine linea, whose hair is bright and Youthful and whose figures are girl- | ish and supple, are worried by the | appearance of the lower part of the face, neck and chin, through a sag- 1 | ging of the larger jaw muecles and those eurrounding them. Today's exercises are the bending and turning ones, which are strength- ening and so deneficial for the thin neok. TO-DAY'S EXERCISE: , ‘B your position flat on the floor and place @ pillow under the shoulder blades. Now bring the bead forward until the obin rests om the chest and then slowly throw it bDaek until the back of the head the floor, Next ¢wist the head first to the right and then to the left side as tar as possible Repeat thie mevement at least twenty-five times 1f % does not make you dissy. Later om when you have become more prac- . tteet you may de the exercises fifty times er more. Ei ‘The head turning exercise should be Eee with the head bending at) twenty-five times each day Turn the head far to tho right @ide and then round and aa, , fag toe the left side as you oan reach. | | “ine plow the shoulder blades! mi u id tf it tires you or makes you the bit dizey, repeat the move- menta only ten times, After you are 4/ Mere practiced you should do this each day. SUGGESTED MENU. . WO glasses water before break- fast, dolled eggs, bran bread, cocoa, Lancheon: Baked beans, brown bread, buttermilk. Dinner: Broiled lamb chops, green sty times when you become! the exercise much more stren-| exercise at least twenty-five times| Breakfast: Apple sauce, soft peas, baked sweet potatoes, cup cus- tard, HEALTH AND DEVELOPING AIDS. ASSAGE, always upward and performed with the palms of the hands, will greatly ald in strengthening neck muscles, espe- elally when practised dally in connec- tion with the head bending, turning and twisting. The thin face may be made plump and round by strength- ening the muscles around the eyes and cheeks, whistling, filling cheeks with air and exhaling slow thrusting out the lower Jaw teeth, | squinting up tho face and cyes as though for a broad grin, in fact, any and all facial grimaces which bring the muscles of the face in an upwar eheerful expression prove its tude also goes a long way in moulding the expression of the face; therefor do not allow your mind to run In channels which create the “down in the mouth” expression, if you would keep the face young, The loose skin which forms in bags around the eyes and the fine, fanlike crow's feet should Abe massaged gently with lanolin each (7 night. Begin at the inner corners ¢ of the eyebrows and massage out- ward and completely around the eyes. Massage facial and neck Ines con- trary to them and not with them. Usea little alum solute in the last cold rinsing water to harden the Joose akin on the face, neck and chin Hxercises for the throat, neck and chest strengthen the muscles in th immediate region, making them prac- tically Immune from contagious dls eases, sore throat, cougis, chest pains, catarrh, cold in the and other common disorders, They also fend poise by Improving the carriage of the shoulders and head, and give symmetry and shape to the neok, shoulders, throat and bust. ‘Throat exercises are also essehtial for those | who would improve the contour of| the lower face and chin, All deep | breathing exercises help to improve tion of the narrow chest and k and are a wonderful ald in clearing the blood and improving the complexion and circulation, Answers to Queries, CAMPHOR ICE FOR CHAPPED LIP8—OLGA M. Gum camphor, 1 ounce, white wax % ounce, sperma- coti, % ounce, Melt and add 6 ounces of olive oll, Beat until bard. SCANT BROW8—mr~. B.- Petrolatumn ait applied eee ty brush will improve the growth of scant eyebrows. Oil of rose will pro- mote the growth of scant brows, Do not let it get into the eyes, as it will rane aa Aforsenogd ie another rem scant , another for scant brows. aces LIQUID ROUGE—: Amimonia, 2 ounces; Carmine foor: dered) 1 teaspoonful. Put these Prete in oo, Sie ht two weeks. Shake wel! one-half pint orange flower tenn! VALUE OF GLYCERIN D. E. “Glycerine 4 to skin, ts @ mild Tiosch end alee tringent. It id be raed Situted, the skin make it appear It ‘used with cautions” BEST NOVELS PUBLI: ON THIS PAGE COMPLETE EVERY TWO WEEKS. Hamiiton Hi bern on w England faren, where ‘hie tom Out ean! exisienog, con" Gelves Aimeclt tr bee aiid of dating. saul Tn years rises to be power Mis to Wall Street, tyme out to be a mie! youn brother, Paul, Of talent, bir he | Siamtlcer, returns froma‘e Aine mediately’ tho two clash over hie assumption of tue hecho Tight €0"dictate her actions, CHAPTER Ill. (Continued.) HE ended and stood calm in her anger. Hamilton came over and bowed with almost courtly ceremony, then laughed. Mary,” he exclaimed, “we shall fight, you and I, but we shall reign together, By God, you are my sister! Not just by coincidence of birth, but by the deeper kinship of two souls, Great heavens, girl, since I came here to fight and to wia I've been lonely, It's not egotism but truth that makes me eay this, I have been @ conqueror —and all conquerors are lonely, You are mistress here, Do as you wish.” Hamilton turned to the safe and a moment later stood bofore bis sister, watching her eyes while he opened a satin case and held out to her a string of pearis, “Mary,” he sald eimply, “there is no otuer woman in New York who could Wear that rope of pearls and not look as if the pearls were wear- her, I thought you might like them,” She took the gift and raised tt to the light, while her eyes kindled and her lips parted in delight, and as sho looked at the pearis ber brother looked at her, Then he took the thing from her and fastened it around her neck and led her to one of the great mirrors, standing at her shoulder and gazing at her through the glass, “So, she exclaimed, turning and laying her hands on ‘his shoulders while her eyes twinkled, “they teil me that you compel men to wear your collar, Already, 1, too, am wearing tL “At least," he laughed back at her, “you will always find it as Nght and ant to Wear as pearls he door he paused and spoke, was pleasant and unassum- ay I make a suggestion?” he , and the girl nodded with smil- the pldgin nglish and the French phrase: oun" won't y CHAPTER IV, VEN tn the days of the first, forced marches toward fore tune, when besides the un- shakable plunger's nerve ho stood almost without an asset, Ham- {ton Burton's policy had been that the limelight paid, and as he had Although The Evening World's Fig- ure Improvement Contest ends with to-day’s lesson, | will devote this space for the remainder of the week to tell- both contestants and readers how | mounted from moderate success {nto the millionaire class, and thence into the division rated !n a plurality of millions, he had always adhered to the plan of letting nothing which re- flected bis personalily fall below the soundly. JOHN Give ME ~ Sia ded FoR. _ N UN DRED Ak THOUSAND DOLLARS SS I WANT To Do MY CHRISTHAS, SHOPPING | WANT A STRING OF REAL PEARLS 70 Give TS MY CousiIN FOR CHRISTMAS | WANT A BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY ESTATE To GINE TOMY BROTHER- IN-LAW FoR CHRISTMAS, _ Evening World Daily Magazine | Have Jusr US ie U WANT FoR. TWO (WANT A TOURIN TO GINE SISTER For CHRISTMAS SABLE CoAT Ta GIVE To My _AUNT For CHRISTMAS By Maurice Ketten | CAR Ky, WANT A OUR CAR: UB One $5555.55 Wednesday, December 13, 1916 On inal Desi he Hom gns for e Dressmaker Advice in the Selection of Materials and Styles for All Types Furnished by The Evening World’s Expert. By Mildred Lodewick Description. F outdoor enthusl- asts had to sit tiently and wait for Mother Ni ture to send enough snow flakes and cold weather their way to make skating pos- sible, they would 66 long since tired of watting this season. Happily we have in- door skating rinks, and this year they are in uch vogue as to threaten t popularity of the WE HAVE BEAUTIES AS LOW AS THIRTY THousant FoR CHRISTMAS \ the waistline, to be held with two fur In Which @ Young Napoleon of Finance Takes Time and Chance for Partners Standards of superlative worth and cost. In those earlier days when his fam- fly was fresh from the frugality of the hills, its elder members had been appalled by the extravagance. It had not at first been easy for the gentle mother, whose hands were red from decades of work, and the father whose fingers had gripped the plow, to adapt themselves to the idle and effortless regime of this new order. In the first chapters they protested, but Ham swept their protests aside, and as the years went on he piled miracle upon miracle until every promise of unsupported egotism had become an accomplished and un~ deniable reality. Then they ceased to fear and trusted implicitly In the star that led him. The man who had been a bearded and Calvinistic count most a half-century be loving old gentleman, rosy of face and inclining toward embonpoint, Now it is fundamentally written in the edicts of Trath that & man must go forward or back, and if his hands hang idle at his sides, he will not ad- vance, Thomas Standish Burton was born mountains, @ his destiny 1 man in the face with the level eves of independence. Within his limitations, he could think wholesomely and But here he was « different and the things man, a Samson shorn which he had first contemptuously waved aside or accepted with a growl in his throat, he now weleomed, The hard brown face 3 rounded and pink and where there had been raw- hide muscles there was now soft flesh And the mother, too, had altered, though, in her, the change had been a sweeter thin » making of @ city lady of this remote descendant Of Alexander Humnilton’a blood had not been difficult, And Paul, with his gentle love of comfort and hs thoughts that strayed into dreams and musio, found the perfumed atmosphere of a drawing-room congenial Of these things Hamilton Burton was thinking as he left his door for / the car that awaited him, Even now, awaited by several men were not accustomed to cooling ir heels in anterooms, he halted the curb, when he saw another up and recognized ut automobile draw his brother Paul. The younger Burton was greatly anged. On his cameo i tures still lingered the delicate hall mark of the over-sensitive, His eyes w still pools of brooding dark- ness, and as he glanced up and met his brother's smile his expression of pleasure was boylsh and spontane ous. “I came tn for a Mary," he explained older brother's hand, this morning? “Have your car follow ,and drtye downtown with me. I want a word with you and I'm more than an hour late now, You can see Mary after- not ere moment to see as he took his “How ts she ward.” When he was sented his elder brother inquired with a keen glance of appral “What's the matter with 1 Ww?) You look tired." “Lam a bil fagged.” ‘the answer was almost plaintive, “After 1 went to bed last night, or this morning, the scheme of un aria began running through my head and I couldn't sleep. I had to get up and work it out on the pl Listen—it goes like this” Forgetful of time and place, the musician began whistling ied opening bars of his composi- jon. Hamilton Burton gazed at the dreamy and fatigued eyes of the other for a moment before he broke out bluntly: “For heaven's sake, spare me! At least save it for some more suitable time. Can't you fix it to do some of your dreaming while you sleep’ It seems to me that for @ man who has nothing to do you keep yourself unnecessarily ex- hausted, Why the devil aren't you tn bed now !f you haven't slept during the night?” “IT had an appointment for break- fast at 12." “With some woman, some woman who want to you gently that your mus I suppose; to break it when she hears @ realizauion steals over her that she has a soul; that, lsten- ing to you, she knows that Life holds Migher and nobler things, That sort of appointment, eh?” The younger man flushed deuply. “In point of fact, it ts with @ lady,” he admitted Hamilton Burton frowned, “You say you are tired, Paul, and gsometimes—I mi as well confess you make me tired. Your trouble ts that you are stifled with boudotr per- fume and suffocated by petting, Why don't you try breathing outdoors sometimes? You micht like tt tf/you ever made the expertinent.” Paul only shook tls head, He could never argue with Hamilton and yet on one or two subjects he w: immovably stubborn Bo brother shrueged changed the sit the old: his shoulders and “What progress. with the new orran’” ho inquired, The responsive face Wehted and weariness gave place to the glow of enthusiasm. Hamilton was # in the younger man's ‘i splendid music room with such an ‘It Is coming on fine,” said Paul At Madison Square tho car swung to the left of the Flatiron's sharp prow. and took {ta course down Rroadway, and when tt reached Vnion Square the spring suniieht was shining softly on the spot which hos n as the e's forum At the north end a or 1 gath ed and from a drygoods box a ker was haranguing them. By the violence of the gestures and tha triculence of the volea whose words lid not reach him, Hamilton Purton knew that it was an agitator inveleh ing agatnst the hardness of the times and the inequality of 1 cond hats The chauffeur had swine enst to take the mom open way and even here he had to throttle down his gas because of who had the scattered loungers erflowed the curb, One man stepped directly in front of the radiator and at the warning of the horn made no effort manner le to seek safety. along with insolent snail's pace, go that the swaggered at driver, with a muttered {mprecatton, brought the car to @ jerking halt, and even then almost grazed with his fender the sleeve of the troubl In aker, on River- Union Square, side Drive, the follage was tenderly green and the sunlight was @ golden smile, Pushcarts frelghted with pot- ted plants and frult gave scraps of festal color, and a stand canopied with a yellow-and-blue umbrella of- fered ples and sandwiches fer sale. Ww hen the car stopped the speaker pointed to 4t with a passion-shaken hand, so that {ts principal occupant knew that he was reco, ing made the target slaught. zed and be- @ verbal on- men standing nearest ‘Tho: turned and gazed at him with curios- it alre at close range, y. They ware seoing @ multi-million- But from a few near Uie centre of the throng came jecrs. A black-visaged malcontent made his way to the margin of the gathering and, with a ple for which he neglected to pay, opened a fusillade upon the rich mé an oran, b ys and ‘3 car. After that or two contributed sme one whose position was stra- ally close to the frult vender's ul @ sounder missile atruck and the windshield, n Burton leaned forward sald quietly to the chauffeur, ing around into the open and drive on.” Hut recognition of the often-pho- toxraphed face was not confined to the assailants, and instently the crowd waa being broken into acatter- ing factors by police officers. ‘The capitalist saw two struggling offend. ers ng roughly bustied away in the custody of uniformed captors, and # patrolman swung to the running ained there with his club swinging ready for ser- * right hand \ weren't struck, were you, Mr, © asked in the tone of so- »to which Hamilton had grown istomed, and which he accepted <a part of his right smiled. "No harm done but a ne and the less noise made 1 , cident the bette I'l be me time, though tho twen d dials of Italian clocks ater hour, a young mau n ordinarily likable ap- st alone at a terrace taole 1 inn, Near by a compuny { and spangled peasants to the wecompanin andolins, but he seo them whe their tambour! he roused himself art to search his pockets A Story of the Alaskan Wilds By JACK LONDON Will Appear on This Rage Next Monday Against his wicker-bound carafe of Capri wine stood propped an old edition of the Row York Herald. It was folded #o that a por- tralt of a woman could be seen to the best advantage. For several reasons, the face was of more than commonplace interest to him. Years ago he had seen tt In the White Mountama, Jefferson Edwardes had been tn contro! of that branch of his firm's business which operated from_ Bt. Petersburg for several years. Now he was returning to New York to take “e larger affairs. An uncle's ad supervision of the home office. He looked at the picture and sighed. CHAPTER V. N Imagination verging A on entering the New York Stock Fixchange a strong suggestion of having pene- trated a place where Giants have been On the particylar morning when Hamilton Burton's car had been pelted by agitators tn Union Square the opening gong sounded from the ised to be a quiet day The psychology of this mart where the world trades with neither coun- ter nor showcase nor tangible wares swiftly to the gloom of fog or the sinlle of un, as well as to the pulse hoat of the telegraph. Around the sixteen “posts where the little ar death 1 necessitated his personal toward the figurative finds casting lots. President's gullery upon what prom- is fitful. It responds nervously and of operators drifted ay idly as th they met there by chance, no urgency of business manifested {tsel Hut back of this calm hung a cloud of anxtety, — Meanwhile — well-groomed young men in pongee office coats aud their equally st elders killed tine with newspapers or conversation Noisg of @ sort there was, for on the floon the Ex r a day is not as m quiet day € ere, Un iportant 1s 1 sales elicited sporadic shouts and clamor, but for the most part the onstrations were tinged with laug rand bad. age. Secmingly the mbership of Finaneo’ College of nals was skylarking with indecorous levity Nut within two hours the smile of the spring sun died behind a cloud rumor spread about the tho Where did this canard originat demanded @ pompous and — elderly gentleman, Another man answered All | get is that Hamilton 1 om” fs out in war paint for a bear rald— damn him!" “And why not? a third broker as “Ho brought on the ‘little panic’ of two years ago and mopped up enough to doub his fortune. House after house went to the wall day, History repoats, gentle. lddenly around one post vole They went from calm to shouts, n shouts to yells, then broke ina cendo of turmoil, It looked as If ttom was dropping out of Coal Products. Hamilton Burton had uck, and blow was on t was the whispered wildfire, co was 3 roing o sat io bis yu Burt dance floors. Tnstead of dance slippers tucked in her muff, thie win- ter’s maiden carries skates, and skating togs are the rage. To be really emart, one’s skating togs should have a “sporty” air, distin- gulshable from every- Any clothes. For the fastidious person who would develop a distinctive outfit at home I have designed the modelshown A plain plaited skirt of Scotch or darker plaid, is elaborated with two generous pockets which Grop from a bodice of velvet. Either & dark shade of green, blue, red or drown to match a color in the plaid | could be used for the velvet; or black, |* band of velvet. which goes with almost any colored plaid would be pretty. The bodice is out diagonally from the neck to balls, The slash, which permits of the velvet being gathered under the alls, fe a distinctive feature. The toque which also sports fur ball trimming is completed in an unusual manner with @ velvet band which, draped around ita lower edge, may be pulled down over the ears when worn out-of-doors, - Answers to Queries. By Charles Neville Buck twentieth-floor office. Carl Bristol! opened the door, and the musing face turned with the impatient frown of @ broken revery. “Mr, Malone's secretary on the phone,” announced the young man. "Mr, Malone wants to know it you can come at once to bis office. “Tell Mr. Malone that if he wants to fiud me I will be here in my own office for Just thirty minutes.” A few minutes afterward the door opened again, opened to frame the bulky figure of a man who had swept by those who sought to announce his coming. The heavy brows of J. J. Malone were contracted over smol- dering atay eyes which many men foa: and all but a few obeyed, At ni ow followed the slight, wiry fm- ure of a companion with nervous eyes, and a cigar which was always | chewed and never lighted, This man had come, Ham had come, from the hardness of @ barren farm and) had hammered his path into the inner circle of an oligarchy. These two greatest of America’s money barons {ignored the «esture with which the younger Warwick in- vited them to be seated. Ho said crisply: “T sent for you, Mr. Burton. Most ea come to me when I send for them.” “In several respecta I differ from most men.” Then Malone burst into ar ort- flamme of anger. Ho was a whirl- wind of fury before whose raging any snail or timid map must have shrivelled The nervous-looking man took a chair and sat etlent. Suddenly J. J. Malone fintabed and then Hamilton Burton spoke with surprising calm for one of his uncompromising arro- ance, weryou sent for ma, Malone I do- clined to come to you. Then you came to me. Ag yet you have shown no reason for the visit except to swear around my offties, If you have| nothing for temperate discussion, T wil! say good dey to you. Take with you thé honors of war, str. You have outcussed me." Have you reached so secure al stage, then, that you ean defy Har- | rison aud myself? Are you prepared to declare War on the world of finance?” Now Malone spoke with regained composure, but an ominous undernote of threat, “When you came, an unlicked cub, into the world | of large affairs it was through you made the allfances upon which | your success ts built, By the Ete 1 G I think we are yet stron enotigh to stamp you out—to utterly obliterate you!” “So' the younger man's ps twisted in a smile of cool trony—"you have come as the guardians of con servatism to admonish me, the f. tlous child yu will not obliterate me. You will not even try Harrison from hia chair gased thoughtf. and silently out of the window, Then be asked a question. nyt “Because just as you at first ac- cepted me for my usefulness, 80 you will again come to mo when you need me, and you know you will need me, By the way, why did you come?’ | “Your ticker Isn't atlent out t 6." Tt was Malone who spoke. You know that the floor is sevthing—and why!" (To Bo Gontinued) | SMART SKATING OUTFIT. chiffon, Sleeves and chomisette of tho latter, revers or other pieces of velvet on waist, and band of velvet on skirt. A loose jel of chiffon in front may be finished with Peshion Editor, venting World Will you please help with becoming design for an evenin, gown Am forty years of age, have grayianh brown » dark red dark com- plexion, with some color, MRS. L. Bapphim blue tore and chiffon for accom) gine destgn, wien jue spangied net for half of bodice and sash drapery at et aide of akirt. Steel ads = outlining equares of tunics and bodice. Frsblon Eéitwr, Evening World: Os What would you advise for an eve- ning gown? Am nineteen years o; age, 5 feet 2 inohy in height, not stout, of very deli- cate coloring and have brown hair, What kind of eve- ning cap would you advise? CELIA R, Pale pink chtf- fon over thin silk or chiffon cloth for frock, Fichu and plaitings of white silk net. Shaded nk velvet flowers with silver leaves. D of allver lace, ta end 1 Te 8 trim it with lace 5 If you are @ blonde, a black velvet collar would complete your prettily; otherwise a blue chiffon one pilcoted with gold thread or finished with a single line of gold soutache, Fashion Editor Evening T have a red eat- ine native Russian dre: but wish to wear the skirt sep- arately with a white blouse and jumper. Will you please suggest a design for the latter? Am 19 years of age, 5 feet tall. R. C. A basting stiten of worsted or che- or black could finish in red, blue , With tasse students, who had been study~ ing Shakespeare in their native tongue, were requested by an exam ler to translate into Bnglish the ening lines of Hamlet's soliloquy, > be, or not to be,” The following was the result ‘The first Frenchman declaimed: “To was, or not to am;' the second ren- 4 it, "To were or is to not,” while third gave a still more liberal ding, “So should, or not to will,"— Rehoboth Sunday Heral A 'T a certain foreign university the ————— N an effort to find a matertal for | making book paper which can be used as a substitute for wood pulp Investigators for the Department of Agriculture have discovered that the fragments from hemp stalks serve very satisfactorily, says Pop chanics, The hurds, as they are led, are the waste produced tn pre- Hing ‘hemp. bre for the. market, ‘They can be reduced chemically to paper stock by a process which aif- fers but little from that used in mak- ing pulp from poplar wood, It ree quires more bleaching and beating, but the first steps tn its preparation are less expensive, ¢ a —— t