The evening world. Newspaper, October 16, 1916, Page 13

%.. y BRR ee A ARRAN nA RRA R RA AAA RRS What You Should Know About Paper By James C. Young EW materials are vo generally used as paper, and the pre@nt shortage of that commodity hae directed attention anew to its import- nee in the modern scheme of buvi- This shortage is principally due to the large consumption of rags for war purposes, and as rags are one of the obiet materials in paper making the seriously haudi- capped. Prices have reached an al- most prohibitive level and many tn- * fess and every day affairs. mills have been dustries are suffering as a result. vidual strands, and wrapping paper. deen refined at least once before. « ft whiteness. THOME PAGE , The principal ingredient of all paper is vegetable fibre, which has been sep- ‘arated by mechanical action into Indi- It is then felted to- gether and comes to us in letter-heads New material usually is combined with old, which 4s more pure than the new, having) ro) on the papermaking machine. ‘When rags reach the mill they are|!s of a fine mesh, and forms a thin, sorted, run through a dustef, cut into wet blanket. It next passes between strips and boiled, removing some of the coloring matter and all of the|compicte the smoothing or surfacing etarch and other foreign substances. The néxt etep is to run the rags through a machine that tears and Pulverizes them to a sodden mass, into which bleaching is poured, bring- ing the material to the desired degree ‘Wood pulp, the real basis of paper, 4s made of fir, spruce, poplar or as- pen. The trees are cut into chips and the latter boiled in soda or @ sul- joke Paper made of pulp treated by the soda process is softer than that treated in ackd, the latter being harsh and strong. Jn England, where wood is scarce, esparto grass is largely used, being imported from South Africa and Spain. Many kinds of straw are suit- able for the papermaker’s purposes, and the Germans and French sub- sttiute oat, wheat, rye and barley straw for wood pulp. Tho first step in the actual produo- tion of paper begins with an opera- tion called “beating,” which consists in reducing the fibres of the pulp to desired lengths and to a consistency that will enable these fibi to ab- sorb sufficient water for the felting process, which is carried out on a wire cloth, This wire cloth runs in an endless 1 CAN'T HELP IT IF THE The pulp flows upon the wire, which press rolls and hot cylinders until thoroughly dry, Then other cylinders Process. Finally it comes out of the machine upon a roll. And thus paper is manufactured. . That of @ superior quality is still made by hand, and only the best grade of rags \s used in its produc- tion. The pulp is placed in vats and a workman takes up enough of this pulp on a wire cloth mould to form one sheet of paper. When the pulp ‘sets, the sheet ig pressed against @ piece of felt. It is then placed on 4 pile of other sheets, with a strip of felt between each. The whole un- Phurous acid solution. The pulp is|dergoes strong pressure, the felt ts then washed, bleached and strained,|T@moved and the paper again put under pressure. It is then ready for ‘ater marks or fancy patterns are Ho use h old obtained by having the dasign slightly rained on the wire mold. In the case = . of machine-made paper this design js Economies $| placed on one of the role een 8 3 5 | Which it passes. (0) 0' LING . By Andre Dupont the right thing at the med of your own appearance. neat, appropriate dress is a decided Dusiness asset and helps greatly to- ward success In any condition of lire. make a study of your needs. matter how cheap it is, don’t buy @ Gress or 4 coat or @ blouse that you Even the most wonderful bargain is no bargain for ~ bave little use for. you if it does not fill your needs. have known girls to buy thin Georgette crepe or lace blouses for office use thea complain because they went to pieces Now, such things | ie all right in their proper places ‘and will last a long time if properly taken care of and worn with a best suit, but they won't stand the wear or hard wear at home and fn a short time. ang tear of every day, ni know alway dark blue erge, requires her “to dress up.” ‘These thini @ new froc! them up to dati well made fabrics well-made shoes that will stockings or undcrwear, shoes can be saved, Our First note was William Billings, who Was born in Boston Oct. 7, 1746. In bis youth he was a@ tanner, but a Jove for music led him to become a teacher of singing and a composer of psalm tunes, which eventually found y church choir of New England and became great fa- He published no fewer than six collections of tunes, all founded upon the new school of re- lgious music then coming into vogue Their contrast to the tunes previously in use naturally gave them an immense pop- ularity, and in fact they effected a musical revolution in all the English , colonies of America, They were far pertect in melody and har- would be considered very crude to-day, but the composer dis~ played an originality approaching and had he enjoyed the edu pen to composers ‘his compositions would @ permanent théir way into eve: vorites with the people, in England. dismal old trom bein: mony, an weniu tee oation vantage! of to-day doudtiess have value. 9) Economizing in the Wardrobe RUB economy in dress is to buy right price and to take proper care of what you already have, It is not economy at all but foolishness’ to go habby that you are | > Py about looking so shabby sees A| I-Haldth,” bearing the date of 868, © of thé most sensible women 1| has a simple frock of which she wears with a white organdie collar under @ long coat every day unless she is making calls,or doing something oe 3 frock she buys at a mid-season sale or $10, and with care it lasts her three winters. She buys a long coat every three years at from $15 to $20. save her best suit 50 «that it looks perfectly fresh for two EX and can even be worn for a) “eg ind year as second best. She has so | > ayranged her puchases that each fall ~ghe buys but one expensive garment for the winter wardrobe—a sult, a + ooat, or if she needs neither of these, sk or even a good blouse. All the clothes bought in previous years ps in repair and makes such little alterations as keep eo needs of nearly every woman fer greatly; what would be a sen- sible economy for one would be a wild extravagance for another, Everything table for the pergone for which the purchaser wants them. Very cheap goods are ve at any price; for they will wear. Rather ono pair of neat last all winter and sometimes take one into the next season than two cheap pairs that fall to pieces in two months. ‘The same is true of very cheap gloves, If you have Not the money to buy something ser- -yiceable, it is best to wear the old things a little longer until the twen- ty-five or thirty cents on the gloves and perhaps the dollar extra on the ative Composer ant Hives af ths of A MERICA's first composer of any It is interesting to note that ~ ber of the oldest examples of DAbee In existence bear water marks, showing that the method was understood at an early date. Some of the paper that has come down from the middle ages has elaborate designs of flowers, ani- mals, martial scenes, &c. The oldest known document written on paper was a deed executed by King Roger of Sicily in 11 The "Gharilu AND SHUT UP t Probably is the most ancient MSS. written on paper, It deals with euri- ous maxims of Mahomet, Paper is belie to have been pro- duced by the Chinese as early as the, second century, B. (., but it was not until the eighth century that the Arabs learned the art from them, The Moors brought {t to Spain in the twelfth century, and from there it passed to Italy and France and thence 1|to other European countries, The French in particular achieved great skill in its manufacture and most of the fine paper was made by them until recent times. Ree hie CREAKS AND THE DISHES The Day of Rest — -:s'#Bitha, WHAT DO You EXPECT 2 THIS IS NOT A GRAVEYARD OU MAKE ME SICK WOMAN MUST ALWAYS fapnnnnnenennnennn inne nnn NARA AAAAAAAARAAARAAAAAAAAAAANAA | BEST NOVELS OF THE DAY Published on This Page Complete Every Two Weeks 8 nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnmnnnnnnnnnnnnnmnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn > (Coprright, 1913. by Street & Smith,) CHAPTER I. “Found Drowned.” ERSONALLY I may say that I am atill “on the fence” as to telep- athy. And yet now and”then I must admit that unaccountable things happen, The strange series of events which I am about to relate began with one of these very unaccountable occurrences, T recall having left the Star offlce one afternoon with @ distinct impres- sion that when I arrived at our apartment I should find Kennedy engaged on a new case, I even knew the case, and felt that I knew where he was at the time, Indeed, I could have gone to him at once if I had the courage of my convictions, But I am not one to yield to suoh impressions, Of course, it may have been pure chance—perhaps it was, I had been reading of a tragedy in the news reports all day, but there was not a thing about it to suggest Kennedy more than in a dozen other previous equally Pact Sot th ie ond she moet deep mysteries in which it had never occurred to me to have a premonition, rules that apply to all, The first of] Set it down as chance, then. these is always to get as good ma- Yet the impression, whatever its cause, proved to be a fitting beginning terial possible, By this I do not] to the startling events that fotlowed. For, sure enough, Kennedy had left arily mean the most expensive, | an evening newspaper open on my desk. With a soft lead pencil he had marked an article, and underneath he had scrawled the words: come in before 6,30, meet me at the Morgue immediately.’ It was naturally a rather gruesome request, the more 60 as it was pre- cisely the thing I had expected, Still, I hesitated @ moment, to look at my watch, no doubt half hoping that !t was later than the hour set. As it was scarcely 6, 1 had no course but to go; and, the firet shock of the surprise being over, I found myself possessed by @ rather natura! curiosity to know just why Iwas called on in this unceremonious way to go to the plage where l remember having been inducted, as @ cub reporter, into some of the mys- teries of the newspaper art, The fact is that after the moment ary shock was over | scarcely stopped long enough to glance at the paper on the desk, Somehow | felt no sur- “It you If anything~more than the first words of this letter were needed to stamp this aa one of the most re- prise at the articls he had marked. markable recent cases of suicide, I 1 had reud it, heard it discussed more thought, it would be dificult to imag- or less all day at the office, For the jne {t, {recall that the first impres- @| reader, however, 1 had better cod- gion which the rather outre letter dense ‘the salient points, The uccount read: Karly thie morning the harbor police of Post Nort’ gotlced & body hustlug ta & allp of Ploe—, feway iin f a young woman. made on me when | read it was that {t hinted pretty brondly at the valid- Ity of the very th which the writer so much pains at denying. What mysterious thing it was I could meg to be Sho evidently had been w beauufuaad relwet gut, not conjecture, : The police report a be body of @ woman Perhaps the remainder of the news- Seen et eee ce eld’ tho fect one ius Paper Account may prove interesting weighing at ouy hundiel and twenty as well, At any rate, I will set it mda broee, bairs gray gyn: crating of pro RUA, “Sut pearing “co distliguishiug’ mark ‘or COWR: to many bodies at this sasson tay (ue police, to the higher the freaue eye lemtorms, Sisturs thes equi lee" which havo. Be diaion d\iriug. the ol aw to. the. wufae Tun reoorery of the year to temperature whieh always except an Underskirt strived Rody not identified, and moms iter of the is to roassure her, ‘Tho et, od nereral weeks back, was an Liew ane et, Who sought Feet Jn the of’ cheit intoution. Of the women, saure pou 5 oer aa t you for Tmnre blurred ansthtig you have aald oF dor ‘My heart goes out to jou in condition, My T will fower to help you tegain es well as your 40 piace to do. every Dot to worry atx fareful on whom “you talking of them to others (Xndther blurred “sentonce.) Wf sou fil youreeit with tosce) trcane iti potsg, Be fou will couse Out in th ada Bow THE DEATH THOUGHT that baa been buried tm the city cemetery, Each ‘s carefully examined at tho Morgue for & Wace of puapectéd ‘murder, 2 tis case there has appa’ been no report to the police of any one missing who corresponds with the description of (the git whose taken from’ the water to-day. So. far mo eh excopt the letter, has been discovered I burried down to the morgue where Kennedy already had completed his work of examination of the body, and Was in a littlaroom provided for those who were working on supposed mur- der cases, With him was our old friend First Deputy O'Connor of th Police Departmtnt, with whom we had worked in many difficult and trying cases before. “There are many peculiar features about this case, O'Connor,” Craig was saying as I entered. They turned, and O'Connor nodded to me. “But how did you get into itt’ I asked as Craig hennedy motioned me to w chair by the table at which they were seated. Craig hesitated, and looked at me rather dubiously, Then, in spite of the nature of the sur- roundings, his face broke into a smile, “Water,” be began, “I bope you won't think me crazy, but 1 know that ‘ou will not pe able to understand, The moment I read of this case this afternoon I felt an irresivtible im- pulse to take it up. I had about fin- ished the case I was working on—and it turned out to be so sordid that [ felt I must have some relief. I called up our friend O'Connor at Police Headquarters, aud found bis wire busy. So Ll came over here anyhow, Intending to got bim later If the cam interested me, Whom should | across almost at the door but O'C nor. ‘Just the man I am looking for! he almost shouted as we turned into the morgue. ‘I tried to get you not twenty minutes ago, but your line was busy, so 1 left headquarters, intending to call you again.’ So you sev, Wal- ter, it Was a coincidence.all around— O'Connor calling me when [ was call- ing him, aud though neither of us got the other we met here just as if we had, Colncidence, you'll say, but"—— “Coincidence!” I interrupted. “Why, believe it or not, Craig, but if 1 had had the courage of my convictions I'd have been here an hour ago, direct from the office, Indeed, I should have been disappointed if 1 hadn't found your note," Craig looked at me quizzically as I related aiy ‘own Impression of the af- ternoon, I think he scarcely knew whether I was in earnest or not, “A very, very curious coincidence,” remarked Craig, in a tone that bo- trayed an almost certain conviction that he did not believe it cojnoidence at all, ts “Who is she?” I asked, leaning over and fingering the original of the blurred and blotted note which had been copied in the newspapers. “We can't say yet,” answered O'Connor, “But Kennedy hae dis- covered one thing: She was not drowned." Fvepind World Daily Magazine ENS IS ENTITLE AN WHO becagt | ALL To LEAST Bee oF HOUT OR THe BABY Yow! Yow IWILL HOWL AS NUCH AS | WANT Craig Kennedy at His Best—Begin it To-Day “Not drowned!" I repeated. “No,” explained O'Connor, “She may have died @ natural death or have been @ suicide, or the victim of a murder; but she certainly did not die of drowning, The body was thrown into the water after death, and has beon there several days, per- haps held down by weights that have worked loose, or perhaps bandied up and down by the tides. But she did not throw herself there originally, nor was she thrown there living,” “Only careful tests will show what thoPreal cayse of death was,” put in Kennedy. “The problem that ought to be settled by you, O'Connor, Je her identity, And you have no clue. “No,” answered O'Connor, somewhat vexed. We have examined the Ist of missing persons which \s handled by the detective bureau at headquar- ters, and we can find nothing, even with the new cross index. Since your day, Jameson,” he added, turn- ing to me, “we have a new ayatem, Of course, you know that some of the identified bodies are those of perso: Previously reported to us as mis though @ very large number those not reported. Of thor identified here at the morgu card index system now in use in our bureau of missing persons has effected the Identification of a good many through the comparison of distinot physical characteristics or individual marks on clothing or linen recorded in the card description of missing persons with those found on recov- ered bodies, he system we have now ts almost Mke that of a modern library, Through @ cross index arranged by ages, and & regular index alphabetically, we be- lleve we have brought the bureau up to a degree of efficiency not equalled by any similar police bureau in the world wmreed Kennedy; “but in thie Present case which we have in hand there is a mystery about how this apparently quiet and unobtrusive girl found her way into the river that card Indexes do not explain,” The door opened and the poltoe- man who was stationed outside en- tered, “There's an old fellow who seems very much interested, air, in that body that was picked up this morn- ing. I thought you would like to take @ look at him." the halt From open door wo glanced tn turn without belng our- selves seen, The visitor in question was, indeed, an old fellow. 1 could not make out whether {t was amo- tion or the palsied grasp of hig band which shook the stick he was lean- ing heavily upon. Once in @ while he would gaze wildly about, as if suspicious of every one, At once I recollected storion I had read of mur- derers who came to the morgue to look et the work they had wrought Was this such a case? One look at him at least was enough to convince Ps § a HANDICAPPED 4% By Jackson Gregory The Story of a Tenderfoot Who Made Good ‘ Begins in The Evening World Oct, 80 By Maurice Ketten}|} Original Designs for \HAT Do'You WANT Mi TO Da? SToP BREATH! G TAS AS ISIS aN OWN IF You HOWL L Fa, LL WAKE SCUPER Keanety that the man knew some- thing of the body before him, that perhaps it bad gome claim to his care. Have your man bring him in here, O'Connor,” requested Craig. What {t was that caused the man to tremble so violently as he sank into @ chair before ue I could not conjecture, I was inclined to set It down 48 fear until he spoke. His voice had a@ peculiar, hesitating quaver that seemed to suggest the Peed either from aloohol or some rug. “Who is that girl out there that you wore looking at?” asked Craig; and he fixed those boring steel points of eyes on the man, “She is my niece, Lotta Cameron,” waa the tremulous reply. O'Connor could not resist the tm- pulse to cut in in the old style, “What is your name?” he asked. The old man turned slowly to the new questioner. “Pennington Tyler,” he replied alm, “Occupation “Broker.” “Residence?” The old man appeared to hesit) for the first time, “Where do you reside?” repeated O'Cohnor, raining his yoice, “At the Mille Hotel,” be answered reluctantly, “A broker, and you reside at the Mille Hotel!” repeated O'Connor in- credulously, turning to us, “Yes. I—I was @ broker until I lost my fortune,” he explained, turning also to us, as if in appeal, “What do you know about this nie of youre?’ put tn Kennedy softly, 1® contrast with O'Connor's somewhal The Home Dressmaker Advice in the Selection of Materials and Styles for All Types Furnished by The Evening World's Expert. _ By Mildred Lodewick Deveri; tion ¢ OME frocks there are for school and some for dress-up times, but this one needa no excuse for being worn at any time. It is plain enough for school wear, yet dressy enough for especial cecasions, and will appeal to the youth ful on account of its simple charm, he smartness of horl- fontal trimming has few more convincing exam- pies than this frock de~ pleted at the left in dark blue serge with red embroidered banding. Wheels of red wool braid attached together in lines would form a dis- tinctive banding. There are many pretty but By Arthur B. Reeve simple designs in colored worsted which might be repeated on bands of serge, or merely on the ht ‘ My, The waist declines any use of embroidory, but gathers itself primly in- to @ band of white fur at the neck, and blouses softly at the waistline over @ wide belt of the banding. ‘Tho sleeves, eet into an elongated shoulder line, are given considerable tmportance by the triple row of band trimming, Fur to mateh that at the nock ts used at the wrist, On the right ia an- other pretty effect in horizontal trimming. Several rows of narrow moire ribbon are placed close together, making & more dressy trimming than the yarn. A drick-red color al- batrosa would be attractive trimmed with ribbon in a darker shade of the same ovlor, with black or @kin for the neck and wrist finishing. Black moire or faille or velvet rib- bon could be used on any colored frock much as dull blue, rose, mustard or dull green. Answers to Queries. | Fashion Bititor, Trening World ‘Will you kindly tell me what colors become me? I am 6 feet 4 inohes, fourteen years of age, brown hair, brown eyes, Am pale, not light or dark complexioned. Hoping you will give me your advice, MIS8 L. EL Brown, matching your hair or eyes, should be your most becoming color, worn with @ touch of pink or a ; 5M Magee "es PG et td , ind Nag SCHOOL GIRL FROCK OF BLUE WITH RED YARN TRIMMING, Ught blue, You also can wear bright blue, rose red, old gold. evening, coral pink or orchid pink can use 11-8 yarde of mauve color velvet? What a of cuffs of velvet, White or at neck, Kindly inform me what color hair ribbons would become a girl of fifteen re hair. Dark brown or black for day time, unless dark blue to match @ dress, For evening wear, light blue, Fedhion Editor, Brening Workt: I am desirous of noon dress which will not, be in a state of high excitement. Faguiry | had developed the fact that Cameron had, in fact, once been ao very wealthy girl. Her mother inherited large sum of money from the old Colton estate, though not #0 ree as Cred whieh we a rother, Lawrence on. Cameron's share had been more than Aressy for Smroh, Substantial, But after the death of | fo woar bey ae ‘her mothor the estate was managed | | calahe years €° by her father, who had survived only | age Save araven a year, leaving her under the gual \- p of his brother-in-law, Pen. | Drown hair, gray nington Tyler, the old man who had identified her body. Under Ty manaqerens the fory tune had dwindled, by bad speculation, like his own, until there was nothiag loft of etth He himself had been reduced to living In the Mills Hotel, a wreck of hia former self. Lotta had been forced to seek employment, though there was evidently nothing for which she was really fitted. But the part of the tragedy that in- terested Kennedy waa that a former friend of Lotta’s, who had offered to take her in, said that the girl acted as if insane after the lose of her for- tune. “That agrees with the letter,” broke in Kennedy. "Well," the officer continued, “I ain't much on thie new psychology busineds myself, and when they get to talking about malicious payehio at- tacks and eueh things a8 @ ‘death thought,’ why, I says to myself"—— “The death thought!” interrupted Kennedy, now intensely interested. “What do they mean by that?” The man shrugged his shoulders Tus friend of hers that told me don’t tuke no stock in that sort of self color chiffon revers and sleeves, Black satin tle and fac. ings to akirt; self color braiding, [ig pes 7 Pasion Biitor, Drening World: rose ‘ loth Uke sample. If not, suggest color of shoes to ingly Hebt oom- thunderous efforts. “Where she stuff, either. I think the girl was plexion. Would live, and how did she come here?” clean crazy, that's what I think, But like to make # “She Uved—let me see—I don’t she had a belief that some one was dress for myeelf know where she lived.” The old man driving her to death by thought of three y: of passed his hand over his forehead, as that's it—the death thought, she serge 48 inches if in an effort to brush away some nd it. She stuck to it, Once she wide, which is thing that was there and recollect got @ little eoney, and went out of brown and yellow clearly what to say. "She gvas seok- ing employment as a governess, I think. Bhe had once been an hetress, but"—he sighed heavily—'she lost her money just as I have lost mino Ah—gentlemen—belleve me, I had not een her for months until I read of that letter in the er to-day and came here, I can say no more—no more, Let me go! I must if there are those yet who will give the poor child @ decent burial.” As the old man rose to hobble out O'Connor made as if to continue to ply him with questions, apparently sorry that the real “third-degree” stage had not yet been reached. Kennedy motioned him to stop, and as Pennington Tyler moved away, unmolested, one of O'Connor's plain- clothes men was ordered to trail him and not to lose af. of him for a moment. Another operative wae sept out to gather whatever information could be found about Lotta Cameron heraelf, “I shall walt at my laboratory until I hear the report,” said Craig as wo left the morgue. “And, by the way, O'Connor, come up after dinner, It will take me some time to complete the chemical tests of the blood and organs, but we may do something be- fore that.” It was not late when O'Connor and his man dropped tn on us, They were town for the purpose of escaping tt, Hut when she got back she told her brown back- friends that she believed she could ground. How can not succeed in fighting off the I make it very strange power. She complained of simply, with no disturbing influences directed againat beads or embroid- her—there, | wrote those words down ered trimmings 80 As to get them right and with pockets? was deeply . pondering wear my hair It was ev t that|up and am about 6 feet 41-3 inches approved of the attitude| tall, Du ive, Plain waist buttening up the back thing,” he sald, “is toland blousing over belt, Brown taf- find out where this speculation was/| feta or velvet trimmings. Omit plaits done with Miss Cameron's money, |1f you have not enough goods, What part did this alleged uncle of isa el ers, Pennington Tyler, bave in it? ° Did he lose it all in his own ventures? | Why It Is Easy to Swim in Salt I tell you." ¢ ned O'Connor, Water warming up to the subject, “that girl ar, vas removed for a purpose. She was HE answer can be given in a k ed to prevent her talking about single word—salt, It makes the jomethin ’ put oul of hii leh Pip malo " iter water heavy, compared to T, Aime, and we'll have a ¢ fresh wator, and bas a tendency to “Provided there Is any such per-|buoy up the body, In the Dead Sea Dp Kenne ty, Grvly, ste. there {9 so much salt that 4t would y much person?” asked O'Con- Ihe aimoat Impossible to sink. But tm Marie Ualm in Freach~'Mary | Pure water the body sinks much more lovas you’ Bapiien commented | easily and it ls harder to swim, There ennedy. “Of course, somebody la . eer cs tient pattie ie wuah [are certain Iquids lighter than water, and should ever an expert fall into a q¥antity of such would drown unless pro! cued, an easy matter to locate that writer a woman, I think." (To Be Continued i | i satiate _ainoneemeniad _