The evening world. Newspaper, September 24, 1913, Page 3

O'CLOCK A. ML LID TO BE TAKEN OF Ctty’s Chief Magistrate Says He Will Otherwise Follow Gaynor’s Policies, ‘PLANS RIGID ECONOMIES Fells Evening World His Only Political Ambition Is To Be Elected Alderman Again. Mayor Ardolph L. Kline, after waiting Until the body of Mayor Gaynor was placed in the grave, gaveto The Evening Werld to-day an interview outlining his course of action ae Mayor during the next three months, He has eteadfastly Temained silent heretofore, but during he silence, he mays, he has been study- ing carefully the ramifications of the city’s government. The new Mayor began by declaring that he had no intention of being a can- dideto for Mayor and at present had no other political aspirations than to be elected Alderman aguin from his Brook- lyn district. The future, he sald, will take caro of itself. Politicians and party jeaders have been visiting him in hordes since Tues- Gay morning, but despite thelr urgsng Mayor Kline declures that he does not intend removing any city official who is Going eMictent work, and that the mass f email office holders will be protected. ‘The night-birds of New York, the tired usiness men who forget their weariness the Broadway restaurants, and the % amen of the stage who begin their af- ¢ermoone when most persons are asleep, lon, for It ts likely that the 1 o'clock @losing law enforced by Mayor Gaynor wi be annulled and that the pristine 2 @clock glory of the great restaurants may be returned. PLANS RIGID ECONOMY IN CITY GOVERNMENT. City clerks and ail employers in charge of New York finances may be worked hard during the next three month Mayor Kline declares that the first and @reatest work of his office will be the {nstitution of the most rigid economy fm the government of New York, and thet he Intends to begin au immediate dmvestigation in order to deterr. ne just where leakages are, if they exist. Geated in hie cheery office in the City Hall this morning, apparently unwearied Dy the numerous callera he bad seen, the Mayor talked freely to an Evening ‘World reporter, occasionally making the request that certain things should be excluded from the published interview. “The first thing I want to do ls to wet at rest any rumor that I will be @ candidate for Mayor In the coming jection,” he said. “It is true that I have been asked by some to make the race, but I think the time is \oo late for mo to even attempt it. Lines are too closely @tawn and affiliations are already made; therefore I shall look forwasd to nothing but again becoming n Aléerman of Greater New York, It is possible that I shall make the race for some other office at some future date." He paused and looked out of the wins dow. “Do you know," ho suddenly sald, turning slight!; “ft sems to me that the thing this city most needs ix ecou- omy. That's going to be my platform throughvut my short term. know what will be done, for I have not had time to determine where lax methods are in vogue, but I intend “Bo far as my policy toward police reg- ulations is concerned, I think I shall maintain a thoughtful but Mberal atti- tude toward all questions of public in- terest, ‘In my inner heart I felt last year that Mayor Gaynor was drastic when he refused to allow the Coney restaurants to remain open all night and, though I shall consider the quea- tion carefully, I believe the present 1 o'clock curfew law for Broadway res- taurante fa trifle too stringent, “I don’t think that any place wants to romain open all night, but it seema to me that it might be well to change the hour to 2 or 2:30. Ido not mean to say, , that I shall do this, T allowed ht Mcenses at Coney Island this results, and I do not ink I have been criticized for it. I felt that it was an Injustice both to the aurant keepers and the transporta- tion people to put ail that horde out on the street at one time. if any place remained open after 3 pach BEDELL EMPLOYEES DINE. Propri in Wost Prandial § Insists on Courtesy to Shop, & banquet at Claridge's was tendered Jast evening to the executive heads of ech been extended f® some half hundred or more of the managers and depariment buyers throughout the various Bedell etores, ‘An impromptu dance was given fol- lowing Mr. Hedell's brief address on hop Keeping, Past and Present,” wherein he dwelt upon the need of a hering clorely to the severe standards of store honesty pursued so success- fully through the many years by the ganization, and pointing out the do- mand for an unwavering courtesy on the part of employ to the public Mr. Bedell closed by #aying that the greut present need of the shopkeeper fa the cultivating of the simple old fashioned courtesy and @ staunch ad- herence to the old rashioned honesty thet made, memorable the mercantile Alene of © halt consury ane, tay hail the new Mayor as thelr cham: | 7 iad designe of I don't) Toland | And I doubt] the Bedell Company, invitations having | WU } |of dresses ‘made in Parl [sued warmly, GABE ELLER te THE EVENING WORLD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 2%, 1918 Third Article of a Series If There Shall Be American. Fashions They’ll Originate in Paris, Says Poiret Clothes and to New York for Our Cocktaile,’” He Declares, Asserting That Each City Is Supreme in | the Production of the Two Specified Luxuries “In Paris an Artist Con- cerns Himself With Art ---f Am not Interested, in Morals When I am Designing My Costume. -+-A Dress Is Good if It Is Beautiful; Bad if st Is Ugly.” TMa te the third of a series of articles in which Paul Potret, the famouse French costumer, diecusace and elucidates prob- Tema of dress in which every Amerie woman ie interested. M. Potret ta the founder and head of the celebrated house which beara his name, and he te now pay- tng hin firat visit to New York. Ae an unquestioned authority in all things sar- torial, his original and eharpiy defined views, to be published in The Evening World, will contain valuable firat-hand information for the woman who would be well dressed. Marguerite Moocrs Marshall. Shall we over really have “Amert- ean styles for American women?” For at least five years the embattled tailors and dressinakers of America have declared that already the Parisian yoke has been cast off. They have in- jsted that while the effete and exag- the great French masters of dress may do very well for Europe, this chast> and vigorous con- tinent needs a different set of costumes. And these the, American tailors and dressmakers declare themselves able to produce, without even a hint from the French Capital of Fashion, And yet—according to custom house re- ports, American women and American shops continue to bring in hundreds And, moat unkindest cut of all, the so-called “in- dependent" American designs have been pronounced, by authority, to be either replicas or adaptations of Parisian styles several years old! It doesn't seem if Dame Fashion's American copy- rights were so extremely vaiuable. t apring one of our best-known Illustrators, who Is also & particularly well-dressed woman, ex- pressed to mo frankly her Inablilty to Work on @ purely commercial basis, I “gee American-made clothes, “Person- could not accomplish It. I enter my ally, 1 bellove in the superiority of the Costume egtablishment as if it were a French dressmaker," she said. “He temple of elegance. My patrons com: knows how to give that subtle, mysteri- t© me as they would go to an artist to ous something to a dress which ly agt. | have thelr portraits painted. It's just the difference between the “And, as I have said, the germ of genius and the person who merely h style permeates the very alr we breathe ideas." in Paris, I do not make the fashions POIRET SAYS PARIS WILL so much as I am made by them. I feel iin the atmosphere the particular varia- Asa ae Peel Eoin & detepeecy ware [8 Fl Leal will next attract that the American woman who would |{%® fancy of the women. My designs of my wife, be well dressed will always have to go | S70 frat worn by ny wife, and AL- to Paris for her clothes. pes eaves ere went ee “Ef there ever be an American ig my best ilustration,” added M. style for American women it will originate in Paris, eaid. “What else can be expected? We go to Polret with a beaming glance in the direction of tall, supple, olive-skinned London for our mutton chops, to | Mine. Foret. Fale tor ous apaghertl, tae mee | NEWEST AND FRENCHIEST MOD- ‘York for our cocktails, Why should EL ON VIEW. we not go to Paris for our clothes? Wowhere else can we find such beautiful ones, AU the world knows this, and all the world comes to the French costumer. “It is not even @ question of this removing to another country and pro- ducing beautiful work there. Great national industries cannot be trans planted, Now take the American cocks tail,” added M. Poiret, with a wave of his plump hand and a twinkle in his eye. "In Paris they serve what thoy Gall “the cocktail, But faugh the cocktail that one York.” “And the frock that one gets in New York i not the frock that one gets in Parle,” I amplified. recisely,”’ nodded M. Polret. “With us the art of dress is more than hSe was wearing at the time one of newest and Frenchiest a long robe of cream- and yet falling in lin of perfect grace as Mme. Polret stood, fat or walke It extended several inches below her alim, green-siippered feet, and was gathered around the bot- it out at the neck 4 and the kimono sleeves ended at the elbow. About Mme, Pol- ret's head was twisted an Oriental tur ban of the same material as her frock, and she wore isle huge pearl sus- pended on @ green cord around her eck, “Recently there has been one rather genera! criticlam in this country of the elit skirt and some other Parisian modes,” I observed, “They have been in New & career; \t is @ dedication, Men and /|catled !mmoral.” women, boys and girls, we are devoted| M. Polret gave his characteristic little to the beautiful in ciothes. Those of us| shrug. who cannot create can appreciate, ‘In Paris an artist concerns him- While the French woman has fewer| gelf with art,” he remarked, dryly. natural advantages than have the| “SPersomally, J am mot interested women of some other nations, she is| tm morals when 3 am designing my always attractive because me knows| costumes. Aud all the work turned what to wear and how to wear it. MEN DRESSMAKERS ARE CON. SIDERED MANLY IN PARIS. “In other lands the man who in- tereste himself in women's clothes ts considered unmanly and effeminate, Take my own Even when I was a little boy my favorite playthings were dolls and chif- | fons. I loved them as well as my sisters did, I never cared for toy suidiers, When I was only fourteen 1 began to out by the great establishments ig judged om purely artistic merits im the Preuoh capital. A dress is good if it te beautiful; it ip bad Af 18 fe ugly.” Perhaps another reason why Paris produces prettier frocks than New York iw just thls French reluctance to drag ethics into the realm of aesthetics. TWO LITTLE STORIES ILLUS. TRATING A POINT, Then M. Poiret told two little stories draw designs for costumes. So strong /to prove how the French mind turns in me was the dress instinct, inatinctively to piicity and suita- Why is not the art of dress | bility, both of which he believes are to be mumb; among the great- est of the arte? Does it not deal with graceful, plastic, living crea- tures, instead of with cold stone or canvas? To draw forth the seoret, ‘Bidden beauty ino woman who has been termed plain, to make @ inseparable from the arts of making fine clothes and wearing them. The famous actress, Eve La Val- Here, once #howed me @ most costly ‘nd beautiful jewel,” he said. "s.e told me that it was @ gift to her, hur that she never wore it. When I asked her why, sho replied, ‘It does nut be frankly beautiful woman more | jong to my when IT have it on beautiful—there you have two I feel like a er to myself.’ ideals of the great French cos- “And a well known French comedian tumer and of bis sesistante.” Do you wonder any longer that women Ike to buy their clothes “on the other aide," despite the activity of New York custome officials? “I do not make dr have something to eell, acquaintance was asked why he wore such @ very small decora- thon in his buttonhuie, “If 1 wore a large ribbon,’ he said, ‘everybody woul) eee it. The emai one some wij! stice.’" To-morrow M. Poiret will tell jeu merely to] wmo wthe American Woman May M. Poiret con-| we the Bost Dressed Woman in the “ES 3 trlad te ous my! Wrest." 'JOHN GOT THE JOB; HE'S STARTED TO CLIMB Didn't Pick Up a Pin but He Caught a Couple of Thieves, John Gurdon {s nineteen years old and lives at No, 13 West Sixty-sixth street, \sonn te ambitious and intends to get to |the top of the ladder. This morning, in company with about fifty or sixty other | young men of his own age, he answered lan advertisement of Kaplan Br | No. 100 West Twenty-second ai a shipping clerk. Half a dozen likely looking applicants were selected for fur: | ther examination, and John wasn't one of them, But John remembered the story of the boy who got @ job in a bank for picking up a pin, and after- ward became president of the bank. So he loltered. John didn't pick up any pins, but he aw Harry Gangel, twenty-one years ‘a /Od, pick up @ roll of silk muslin valued lat and, with Morris Boss, twenty- two, Jump on @ Sixth avenue car, John looked in vain for a policeman. -Not |fnding one, he became his own police- man. He boarded the car and kept an eye on the thieves until they changed at ince street and West Broadway to an east bound car. All this time he saw no policeman. At West Broadway he found Traffic Policeman Miller and by the time he made him understand what was doing, the car was well on its way |to the Bowery, The two gave chase to | the car and overtook it at the Bowery, where the two young men were caught with the goods, John rushed to the telephone, called up Kaplan Bros, and told them what had happened. One of the frm went to Headquarters and identified the roil Gangel admitted ing that he had in answering thought he Was entitled to some return. He was to divide the proceeds with Hoss, John stayed with the representa- tive of the firm until his business was finished, ‘Then he looked up inquiring!y | wt him and satd: | “Do 1 Ket the jobt | ‘The manager looked him over, nodded his head approvingly, then smilingly answered “Yes, you get the jon." MILWAUKER, Wis, Sept. %.--Ten firemen were burned, three seriously, here to-day during a fire w! stroyed $7,000 worth of coal, docks and buildings of the Gross Coal Company The men were burned on the way to the fire while driving over a viaduct which was enveloped in flames. The three most seriously hurt fell from a truck and were dragged to si comrades, de-| We Go to Paris for Our| To Unique Dress Designe by Poiret. To the Left Ie a House Gown. jhe had go: The Other Ia a Street Gown With the Skirt Raised To Show the New Boot. FOURTEEN NEW CASES OF TYPHOID FEVER All Are in the Infected Area and Health Authorities Are Not ~ Alarmed. Fourteen new cases of typhoid have been reported to the Board of Health, making in all 3% cases since Sept 1, The Inst cases are ail within the already infected area between Fortleth and Third streets, on the east slide, and Health’ Commisioner Ernst J. Lederle said he had little fear of this area being wid- o Commissioner sald he was not ‘alarmed at the great number of cases reported, and believed that the epidemic would prove similar to that of August, 190, when an Infected milk supply was found to be the Additional inapectors have been sent to each of the homes in which typhold has appeared, with instructions to see that every precaution ts taken against @ further sp: of the disease, and other inspectors have gone to a com- munity up State whence the Commin- sioner has learned most of the milk used In the Infected aren o He believes that so-c dipped inilk—that 1s, milk not bottled, but sold from cans—ts at the bottom of the trouble, and while he has dia- covered the locality from which thie milk comes, his {i narrowed down the search to the orig- {nal herd or herd JACK TAR HITS REEF UNDER WOMAN'S BED Bold Sailor Clarke Sent to the Brig by Magistrate Nolan for Ten Days. Peter Clarke tn & hand as ever @ sallor bold, as good Med the wind at 1 from Cuba yesterday on the steamer Havana, nthe Havana was tled*up at her P yesterday, Sailor Clarke strolled forth on his native shore. About mid- hight, when all was calm above and below, Walker Jensen, who runs a lodging house at No, 161 Eighth avenue, heard one of his women lodgers scream: Ing. He rushed to her room. The wo- man couldn't talk, She could only point to @ pair of big shoes sticking out from under her bed. Jensen got a double hitch on the shoes, and pulled out Into the open the rest of bold Sailor Clarke, In the Jefferson Market police court to-day Sullor Clarke told Magis- trade nh that he didn't know how il of the Eighth aveny house, Mlatrate Aned lim ten dollars for pilotage fees, tn default of which he anchored for ten days, under The +] killed themselves and others ai TOINDICT SCHMIDT ‘SANE ORINSANE ON CHARGEOF MURDER Slayer of Anna Aumueller Now in Hands of Alienists in Whitman Office. COMES FROM MAD STOCK Prisoner Won’t Be Barbered, but Wants His Beard To Grow. In order that the aveniata who have been selected by the District~Artorney to examine Hans Schmidt, the slayer of Anne Aumueller, may bave ample time for thelr task, the inquest, which had Deen set for next Gaturday has been postponed until Friday, Oct. % By that time Gchmidt'a mental condition will have Deen determined by three allentats, two of whom, Dr. Carlos F, MacDonald and Dr. William Mabon, ti already been selected by Dlatrict - Attorney Whitman. Sohmidt was taken from the Tombs to District-Attorney Whitman's office this afternoon. ‘There, in the presence of Mr. Whitman and Assistant District- Attorney Delehanty, he was given « Preliminary examination by Drs, Mae- Donald and Mabon. Alphonse Korble, Schmidt's counsel, was not present. SANE. Should the District-Attorney’s allen- tata report Schmit Insane, an indict ment against bim chareing murder in the first degree will be found neverthe- less. Thon he will be arraigned before Jui Foater in the Court of General Beasions, who will determine whether or not @ Jury Is to finally pass upon the prisoner's mental condition. Further Information about Schmidt's family was aiven to the authorities to- day by Rev, Father Franz Markert, now atationed in a remote Illinois par- ish, who Im visiting In New York. He TO INDICT SCHMIDT, SANE OR IN- t eee ee ANCHOR LINE MANAGER INJURED IN COLLISION William Coverly and His Driver Thrown From Carriage on Brooklyn Bridge. ‘Wiltam Coverly, general manager of the Anchor Line and known as the “dean” of the New York shipping tn- teresta through hie lifelong association with that business, was thrown from hin carriage in a collision with @ Broo! lyn Bridge trolley car to-day and pal fully injured. He and his driver, John O'Connor, were taken to the Hudson Street Hospital, end after being treated for numerous cuts and contusions were gent to their homes, In 1909 Mr. Coverty attracted con- siderable attention by marrying Miss Chapman, @ young nurse who had tended Mra. Coverly during her last {liness. Mise Chapman was a Roman Cathollo and her elderly husband had been a Protestant. ft was reported that he had ohanged his religion to that of his wife, but he refused to comment oro “WORRAI” ONLY ENGLISH WORD BOY Ri MEMBERS Small Son of New York Doctor Returns From Europe With- out Escort. ‘On the North German Loyd steamer Bremen, in to-day fram Bremen, there arrived Walter Schmidt, nine yeara ol, son of Dr, Frlederioh Schihidt, of No.| om Bast Fifty-third etreet. Walter's father went out to meet him. The boy left for Germany tn last June, @ving and turning alone. When he left he could peak nothing but English, When he came back to-day he could speak nothing but German, When Dr. Schmidt stepped on deck to «reet his won this morning, he asked officer he met if he knew ‘altar Sehmidt. the Schmidt kid' the officer, “Do I know the Schmidt kid? Ach! Everybody knows it. Dr, fchmidt says that he le certain that the boy will pick up his lont Eng- lh again, At present he remembers only two words “Wirra, wirra.'? At Grocers and Delicatessen Stores, Ie Made by E. Pritchard,331 Spring St..Y. ————— Forks,MpennaJowelry replated.te te 0c GIRLS!GIRLS!GIRLS! RrBindtictst cients mate ta Mesh Bag tor 25¢ mon POTTS TOE PR woke Tan's be done returned bet x ae Pe eee ‘Over Regal Ghose Bt: nt Germany, and comes from Aschaffen- was a classmate of Schmidt in Maing, berg, Schmidt's native place. “Mehmidt’s family,” sald Father Mark- ert, after a visit to the accused mur- derer in the Tomba to: “la one of tho best of the middle! of the Hense-Darmatadt district. Senmidt's father ia In the railroad aervice and his #tanding te of the highest. “schmidt hus four brothers and one sister living, His eldest brother, W helm, 1s In the postal service: another brother, Henry, runs @ railroad station restaurant; @ third, Charles, {s a prom- nent railroad oMcial, and the fourth, Leo, {8 a merchunt, The sister is mar- ried. INSANITY IN FAMILY ON SIDES. “There Is Insanity InSchmidt's family both sides. His mother’s maiden name was Mueller, One of her brothers, a tobacconist In Maine, killed htmaelt and this sulcide's daughter jx in an in- sane asylum. “Otto Schmidt, a cousin of Hane on his father's ate, shot himself, Otto Schmidt's sister is in an inaune asyluin, Two more of Schmidt's cot have in In- BOTH yane asylume. “It In true that the man known aa Dr. et heare a striking resemblance to Schmidt and may be his cousin, Taaked Sohmidt about tt when I visited him t day, He dented most positively thut he in related In any way to Muret. AS STUDENT WAS “OVERLY PIOUS,” SAYS PRIEST. “Schmidt was a brilliant scholar in college at Maing. He was particularly profictmt tn physics and chemistry and UHOd 10 aBSIAE Lhe plutemmin ly instr ing other students in these bran At that time he was enthusiastic for the priesthood and his instructora maid he was overly pious-—that is, he spent too much of his Ume in fasting and prayer, Apparently this broke down his mind eventually.” Inspector Faurot {a investigating « report that the Huboken police have rned that Schmidt, dlaguised in false beard, conducted a imerriage bureau on Hudson Boulevard @ year or more ago. The persona who say that they think Schmidt i# the man who ran the bureau have not seen him, but siy they recognize him from his pletures, He was associated with anoither man who le sald to answer to the deserip- woman. The Tombs barber went to Schmidt's cell to-day and offered to remove the thick wrowth of hair that has accumu- lated on the murderer'a face since his arrest ten days ago. Because of Schmidt's repeated wishes for quick death the Tombs authorities have not allowed him to use @ razor himpelt. Schmidt refused to he shaved, He said he wanted to grow a beard. De- | tectivem may the beard will serve to pro- Jtect him from identiteation rcrimes are brought home to him For Constipation EX-LAX The Delicious Lazative Chocolate 2 X KEL BS CONSTIPATION 4 bowels, in case) OPPENHEIM, GLUNS aG 34th Street—New York Thursday An Important Sale of | 150 Young Men’s New Fall Suits alta Remarkably Low Price Three and four-button sack coat models, designed on ap- proved English lines, with flap or patch pockets. Made of high-grade fabrics in smart stripes and handsome overecheck effects, as well as fine mixtures in unusually attractive patterns, 32 to 40 chest measure. Value $20.00 12.00 i: | Ladies’ Hosiery This Department includes everything desirable in Silk, Cotton and Lisle Hosiery. We are now showing some exceedingly fine and beautiful Two-toned effects as well as Open-work and E abroidered goods in very attractive designs Hand-made Silk Stockings — Two-toned effects in Gray Mixtures and Stripes, $6.50 per pair. French Open-work Hosiery—All new designs. Also fancscabroerad: $5.50 to $15.00 per pair. Fine Quality of Silk—Hand-clocked, in Black. Also White or Self-Clocked. Special at $1.75 per pair. Fine Quality Pure Bright} Silk—Good weight. $1.35 pr. 3 pairs for $4.00, Extra Quality Silk—Black, Whites and 40 different shades, extra splicing on sole and lisle lined inner sole, Special at $1.50 per pair. Lisle and Cotton Hosiery—In all weights, 35c up to $3,00 per pair. James McCutcheon & Co., 5th Ave., 33d & 34th Sts.