The evening world. Newspaper, July 26, 1913, Page 10

JOB--fit Spent tua" THE ZOO GOWN | ANEW That’s What Up-to-Date Girl Secretaries Have to Be Adept At Before They Can Get Diplo-, mas from the Secre- tarlal School— “We -Teach Our Pupils,” Says the Principal, “How to Expend t he} ov Comparatively Modest Income of $200,000 to De you know how to spend $200,00 a year? If yeu don't you'd never, never do for; nice rich man your lind employer to apend his income. ‘It te the assertion of one agitated grad- ¢ i} J ‘= - RI e , ‘ AY 8 esi L GH By ag a I| § Kenn a Ngee + ‘THE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, JULY 26, 1918. «a Taxes Caretaker's wages Cabinet .. Electric lights Coal .. Tuition . Carpet cleaning. Window cleaning. Architect ‘Tailors Saud Scatusesalt¥Euss2 e8s8s8 li TOA oo. sscserenees “This monthly budget ts des! @ family of four who own Fifth avenue and who have a Place at Atlantic. City,” though not wiidly extravagant, fortadle, »| in thelr ecale of ving. the| w @ charge account Hl il & private monthly allowagce of $5,000, while he would give lils wife as apend- ing money $3,400 and permit her to run One of the departmen: stores on Fifth avenue, Then the cost of running the motor car would probably be at least 91,9 @ month, on the average “Qne of the duties of the private bout $3,000 at | ke ' secretary ia to arrange for whatever social entertainment ber employer or {her employer's wife may care tb give. ; Sometimes she hae carte blanche and may go ahead entirely on ber qi re- sponsibility. Oftener she is ‘tet the number of guests and given a lump eum of money to provide for thelr comfort.” And then Miss Lynch presented this interesting little budget of an opera Dinner at Delmonico’s ‘Total .. “The secretary must know how to spend money, with the accent on the ‘how’ as well as on tinued Mise Lynch. her employers from being cheated, and whe must get them the best results for thelr money, Nobody likes to be im- Posed upon, whether he paya five cents or five dollars or five thousand dollars, ‘The secretary must know what house repairs, flowers, wine and groceries are really worth and whether the best quai- ity te being obtained for the quantity of money expended. . “How much money does she uaa! Get to spend on herscif?” “A telr avbrage salary ts 035 a week," replied Miss Lynch. ‘Then, of. course, the eecretary recetves board, room and washing. Her position with the family that employe her varies according to the nature of her employers ‘and her own. It ts qenerally understood that ahe shall be treated as a lady, “Of course ahe is not likely to be given lange sums of money to handle at Pay out sums so salary. But when she charge of the household budget must kn her business, which is wh; the young women in this echool are given such @ thorough Grill in adjusting inoome and outlay. It's really a acience to know how to live on $300,000 a year.” One wonders if it is as profound «a aclence as living on ©2000 a year, ¢ ia eh Leopard Skin Cloth to Give a Jungle Effect to Fifth Avenue and Broadway and Scotch Headpieces to Give:a-Hint of a Wild Night on the Moors— Pegtop Dress Will Also Parade, as Will the Po- tate Sack Garment and the with a Bias Fold. juerite Mooers Marshall. B) sre gEe erEte i tly, Many of the costumes at the Fall Fashion Show, now being held in the Grand Centra) Palace, make @ Broadway summer ‘chorus look like a ¥, W. C, A social, Found at Last! New York’s ‘‘Average Man”’ Who * — 3€ you have just # quarter and a of nickels in your pocket and how in blases you are going to Merry alone till pay day, it ian't foir te put tne on the high cost of have just been supplied that the high cost of living to be a in the same class with the labors states that the average! York man pays 11.6 cents a day @ meal and 34.6 cents for susten- for the whole day. bt may de, of course, that you are you are ac- fo having music with your , straight down fenu frum the hors « Maueurs, That's different, of 3£ you are going to live on oie ‘8 day, you'll bave to go easy pe ‘planked steak—forego things th (qruffies ond French names, and @ deaf ear to the cell of the ter- Pigs “Pay. ‘When an Evening World reporter! bow; and @ haughty was met with smiling and ' ne the above figures ,to a few of| waiter, Ghate and restauratoure in the city | trepid individual, At the Astor that same he average man, might have had dil) pickle or mit dolled rice, corn fritters or German plume—or a number of Yanches; at a single glance, one could be certain that he did not favor the tipping system. On Nassau street, he! dropped into s restaurant and ordered Hamburger steak, a roast beet sand- wich, @ cup of coffee, some cream waf- flee and half an apple ple When rged, he was puffing and glassy- repletion. His dinner had cost him 13 cents. ‘The reporter was learning things about the high cost of living, but some- thing told him that ne bad not yet: tumbled upon the average man. Then, ark Row, the reporter discovered a man who wes the embodiment of the type. ‘Would you mind,” asked the reporter, “42 I asked you ina pure spirit of re- search how much your meals cost you per day?" ‘When the average man Gecided that he was not being insulted his belliger- ent attitude melted in a shame-faced grin, “Why, it's this way,” hp explained, “In the morning I get coffee and rolls! Qt @ restaurant uptown for 16 ‘ents, At noon Igo little place I know of around her. I can get a glass of beer and all the free lunch I want with it. At night I do the same thing, Bo my cating, expenses don't amount to jot."* ' an ‘About how much?" queried the re« Peron, 1 should bout a5 " a - Dress Suit Coat Skirts are open to a point above the Knees, and the openings are not con- fined to the aide but are to be found both at the front and at the back. The corsages of evening gowns are mere transparencies, and evening cloaks are worn precariously over one shoulder, ‘protecting neither health nor modesty. I willingly leave ¢! ethics, But the undress dress is, to the average woman, the most grue @omely unbecoming costume imagin- able, If language was sg! conceal our=thoughts, clot! gurely invented to conceal our bodies, ‘The female form divine is usually not divine at all, but squatty, skimpy or otherwise imperfect. However, only the exceptionally candid woman real- {ses this truth, and #o I suppose we have i ly daring reve- lations by Flora may who’ thinks she's Cleopatra. *s SKIRT THAT 18 PRACTICALLY NO SKIRT AT ALL. For.instance, there's a tea trottery frock at the fashion show which has practically no skirt at all in front be- deep collar of black Batin over the shoulder and « girdie of the same ma- terial reaching in the back from waist front, the ekirt curves away to the eemi-cireular fold on either long twisted pink cord, be. the waiet, ewings between of the w@arer as she walks, A, tango evening gown from Paris has‘long trousers of raapberry chiffon caught in at the ankle with a band of eparkiing beads. Over this is o dia- phanous ,drapery of purple tulle em- broidered in gold and @ raspberry chif- fon peplum is @uperimposed on the tulle, The bodice is of raspberry satin wreathed ia_purple tujle, and a trans- parent chiffon drapery does duty for slesves, There ts a similar costume of lemon-colored chiffon and satin, the ankle-length trousers edged with eeed- Pearl embroidery. ‘Then there te s Grecian fectly plain white satin fi otreigh' ja to the ankle, @ bod! te out low and square and coups %S Just under the breasts, with three rows ef narrow gold cord, Around the hips ’ of per- ing in That’s What the Se ear And She’tt Sport a Tam o’ Shanter With Her Slit Skirt & Dane Be other trimming. Another gown gives the impres- Be gf nal Ff Bit: it RE : 4 HH Ey | e 4 there are eeyeral ‘They are made of leopard-skin cloth tions, A raspberry chiffon waist is worn with a skirt of Copenhagen blue velvat. A black velyet costume has |! sleeves of lemon-colored chiffon and a deep embroidered girdle showing a regular cubist frensy of green, purple and red. A blue velvet coat is worn with o violent bive and green plaid jakirt.’ you may see ‘With « pearl gray coat and skirt dark brown peplum and Stace vi TAMn-OSSuauTER 1s toosely twisted a white satin scarf | of drape, front encing In a gola vaasel. There is no between hips and a collection of them give a real Jungle effect, One of ‘the, weirdest features of the éhow 1s the fantastic color combina. |e! tember Girl of 1913 Will We 816 -Baw across front. and coat of broche velvet, duvetyae faille Ge laine, velour de laine, char- EVENING DRESSES. In evening dresses @ compination of tulle or ice an two materials Is used; la Sleeves (where sleeves are used Skirts are of heavier material, such es velvet, brocade, or plush. Skirts are round or trained, the train ing cut round, squace, or V, They 1 inches In front by low caught-up drapery, or hung full be- girdie and caught up at cenre-front ide seams. Tunica are cut away in ape of inverted V toward back to knees, and ar jade af contrasting ma- terlal to drop skirt. Dancing frocks have round length skirts, draped; or double tunics of chif- fon and lac Waist line normal or ratsed. both front and back. AFTERNOON Gowns, These ¢ollow in the main the lines of rvening frocks, ong or hort, Waists are all open at the throat, cut in and sleeves, Skirts are short, in drawn. ip draped effects in ci ‘Mp Une, or dullt tunicewise in two or hree tlers. Sleeves show kimono top, ‘ith bishop shape below dropped shoul- wish tints are conspic jon owns, Plaid silks | combination with charme: rocade, moire for w imming and oth EVESING WRAPS. Wrap sithouefte hag al! fulness bo. veen shoulders and knees, Nelength rkes, long no oF co col! Sleeves are ination Kimono-top Sleeves may be elther | ¢ \ DRESS <Cont . surt. eeven-sighths length, Medic! - edfier | everywhere, ‘ ‘There are sone magnificent cloaks at the fashion show. One, a Baul Potret model, is of gold allk with blue silk, On either huge gold arabesque, and another ere the single fastening of the tight jong drapery. Then there is @ ful wrap of rose damask, the neck Gn elbow kimono sleeves edged ,with @ ruffling which imitates rose petals. A and lining and ruffles of chiffon. " SOME MODELS IMITATE MASGU- LINE STYLES, it | As always at a fashion show, there are certain modela which imitate mage jcullne styles, Many of the suits dave white or figured satin vest effects ume es the | But a blue velvet costume shows a coat shaped almost exactly Ide & man’s vest, the alight fulness in the ‘back belng caught at the wadatiine wits masculine strap and buckle, The pamis contrivance ls used at.the wrists sleeves. But @ big blue velvet | 8M@xed to the front of the le vents the sult from being mannishy A dark blue broadcloth has long tails in the back exactly the order of a man's evening coat, 01 very full coats give the effect of « tary cape in the back. There least one suspender frock, blue ys Hats are emall and round, byt fantastic trimmings makeup fer demu: visible effect on millinery. ‘Many ef bows and feathers seem /to grow from the exact centre of the Others soar just over the)forehead; model see: to have a towering ie the Madere vet. the gunnie-sack come back, The pegetey top than at bottom, will de is an adaptable tr / two wide, which ean | head as an cyoning scart -oF tl i \ around the waist like #. sash wy) dancing. 7 But, according to the shey, even @ widow must slit ber skins geur inches, y b\ b)