The evening world. Newspaper, December 30, 1911, Page 12

\ pera RG i ooccarer ache —_ ws HE HOPES FOR CHANC “SOF WOMEN “TT THER FAULT A SRT Makers of Fashion and Mer- cantile Pressure Responsible for Oddities in Dress. #- Red Cross Founder, 90 Years Ol, Sends New Year's Greel- ing Through Evening World. (Special trom a Word Stal Commaremdent WASHINGTON, Dee %—"'The fae fone and foibles of the women of to- day we something (whieh woman hood Is respons Clara Berton, The Evening World, wn fn her winter land, near W: Mary “It in yonaibie hington, to-day Mercantile pressure that i# res for the oddities of feminine Wi," whe added Miea Barton opened Chriatinas week With the celebration of her ninetietn attire in Dirthday anniversary. For a hae been Wl, part of the time ck of threatened p convalescing, but is not ong enough to attend to her ae: | pondence or receive Visitors, But when me learned that The Brening World wished a special inter- view Miss Barton ted, despite the forebodings of her closet compantona, thet he be received. What The Kvening Wertd wanted wan a statement from Migs Barton on some of the changes she hae witnessed in fashions and foibles of Women in her ninety years of life. When the Evening World correspon. S6at was ushered into the big sunlit ving room on the second floor of her a eho bungalow, overlooking the Virginia landscape acroaw the Po- Mise Barton extended her hai welcome and her countenance | ed. Gowned in an old fash- kimono of pale blue, dotted with @age designs, whe half reclined in iN old fa: Joned bed, beride which . Arndid y of Washington, Dr. Julian 8. Hubbell, co-worker Mise Barton in all her humant- work. BARTON INSISTED ON SEE JING EVENING WORLD MAN. ‘am so glad you have come,” said Barton to the newspaper man. ou are the only writer who neon my return to Glen Heho last | ber, Many have called, but 1! have not been able to receive them. They tell me 1 must conserve my | Strength. But when I learned that @ Fepresentative of the New York Even- fag World had called, 1 told Dr. Arnold T must see him if that were posstble im my, present condition. “Never, so long as f am able, will I Gectine to receive a representative of Bvening World. Through thick and thin, the great newspaper you represent DAR rallied to every humanitarian cause ie which my energies have been enlisted. T cannot command words to thank your paper for all that It has done, To anak Was sumMcient at any time and Th ws World would act. Ite great has beaten for humanity and the affiicted and the down-trodden In every Part of the world. “Tt tn really against the advice of my Physician that I recetve you to-day and her consent was granted only when 1) Mnaieted that 1 wished to acknowledge Your call if possible. 1 have received you because 1 wish to ask you person- ally to convey my best wishes to #0 splendid an institution as the New York Evening World.” | When Mirs Barton was informed that | The Evening World desired her to tell fomething about the changing proces: | slon of feminine fashions ste had seen. | her face brightened. Then she se to look away down the distance of yea end ap her returning gage fell ups Daeket full of letters on a stand beside! she said: @ basket containing many some of them from the They have been ap- But they cannot | p yet, AY rated enough RED CROSS FOUNDER WHO TALKS OF WOMEN’ FASHIONS AND FOIBL: It the Internal embeltiahment Hand heart and cour characterisation * ennobled wom- note are the nount qualities (hat h KHout the age GARB DOESN'T COUNT — IT’S and an the ONLY SOUL, “Whether she has worn Ught-fitting skirts or the loowe-fitting gary of elumm! Gree has mattered little provided only whe ha not stun true woman “Zt pains me to think of the ex- tent to which mere dress plays a part im the world to-a*y. 2 am Sorry, still Z have mo desire to criticise. X have seen in my time atyles, fashions, foiblese—the hoop, the orimoline, and the other mo- mentary fancies come and go. 3 vRave seen ekirte so tight in recent years that the wearers were hobbled in walking and almost un- able to board treet cars. = hope and trust there will come « ohange. I Believe there will come @ change. Wom re ie high- er than mere dress. “But woman ts not wholly to blame; nor ts ahe most to blame. It ts mer- cantiio pressure, the temptations set by the merchant desirous of relling hia fashions, that Is more, responsible than the Inine for many of these fotbies of drone, “That grand and good woman, late Queen Victoria of Great Brit Ireland, learned éarly ip know some of the bitternem out of th tile pressure wpon the fashions. London soon after she had lost by th her husband and consort, Albert. 1a dearly loved him. After his ep mourning, i A her soul ax a the 1 in deep mourning sev- it period ahe ex- ire of bitterness over nome of the thi that were said, the ridicule that was subtly heaped upon ‘her for remaining in mourning—ridicule from mercantile sources, But ehe was | courageous and withstood it bravely. When she finally went out of mourning many of thone who had criticiaed were loud in their praise of her action. MAKERS OF FASHION ARE TO BLAME. it f# not always the woman who nalble for the fashions, but the makers of fashtons, those who profit by the vogue of foibles, and mercantile pressure." Dr. Arnold asked Mies Barton: you not spoken enough?” “My physician thinks I have sald enough for to-day," said Miss Barton with @ gracious smile, “Do. not forget to deliver my message to the New York Fvening World, and through 1t extend my greeting for many happy returns of the Yoar to |ts readers and my wherever they may be found.” Barton's condition haa been seri- ous, but is not so regarded now. This fe un authoritative statement of her tl- ness, More than two y ars ago, in 1904, she stepped too close to the end of loore boant on the watk leading to h Chevy Chase bungalow, The other end of the plank flew ug striking her in the back, disiocating wome vertebrae. A phy- Jan told Miss Barton ahe could not be ured, She changed physicians, engaving Dr. Alma C. Arnoyl, and within three months she was well again Last January she contracted a cold that developed into pneumonta, Since then tt has been impossible for her to he outdoors, Dr. Arnold, who had moved to New York, was summoned axain and under her care Mies Barton Is considered on the road to recovery. During the sumer the famous founder of the American Red Cross rested at her summer home at Oxford, Mase, Bhe was’ brought back to Washington tn September Miss Harton hae been gathering ate ‘tend to them, 1 aim told 1 must con. serve my nervous strength | LATER SHE WILL WRITE STORY HERSELF. "2am afraid J cannot tel! you of the many fanhions and foibles, the stantly changing kaleldonope of t that iny eyes have seen during course of my life. A little later ‘jms, not now, 1 will winte en ng World, tory. Lam forbidder y for the present Mins Barton’s eyes were sir fire Her fa her intelicct @ n spoke with ¢ ton, we juinting « ~pue J have ws Mise ‘ che. ce 4 * wy ' i The uv Kiand.°s git per them for will be the old of her active Hed ¢ days. sities Were und Ae ever, and ever oh wedtifal vom nel Ag T bai a mo de atm ys T have ine the that wom hood fe aa: se, constant, endear ng and eapobiing, Her fashions have Pliunged uitnost ax swiftly a the sands the | Bhe f the seashore, Not the extermal in: | tere. strength all the time.’ sald Dr today. There ts no reason why ahe should not tive to be one hundred yeare old 1 found ber organs tn as good whape as those of any of my patents thirty years old. To. preserve her us energy Is the only question, T te her present excellent organto Jitlon to her moderate Way of Iving ‘se been living wut my pet theory C!_AIM FAR $100.000 FOR WINNING $400,000 UPHELD. Appellate Division Rules That Lawe | er Did Not Overcharge for Ser- vices to Mrs, Ransom, Albert Wo Ransom, lawyer, obtained 140.000 for the widow of ke Barker Baldwin, bod & will contest for a contingent f When tt was won eh aged to pay nin $100.00 and fraud int induced to ¢ Supreme lod that (he « Was ox € and diced ft to $24,000, a). ' ve Would not allow the court 6 to show fraud, The Appellate , ied yemterday that the $100.00 . a sory sed the Sudgm , Mrs Harker fe of Porte haa ol Rane become t n, son of the Mra I Kan Was Barker's housekeeper when hy married her, The will Was contested by Barker's daugh- Vv Arnold | “OVERBAD SERIE ON EGHTH AVENUE | Forced to Wait 20 Minutes for Cars That Run to the End of Line. SERVICE BOARD BLAMED, | | | Take Steps to Improve | the Conditions, | | Awa remult of the inadequate street lear service on Elchth avenue, residents of the lower west side are up in arme. They are so Incenmed at the Inactivity of the Public Service Commission that drastic Kare contemplated to force recognition for that section of the efty. The Public Bervice Commissioners, who draw $15,000 a year for framing orders which they seldom en ©, May the mer. vice ts bad, mighty bad. “But, oh dear, what can they ask. The receivers pay any attention to our we have received ¢ after-theatre service on the upper went wide of the same line and hage inwued an order for more care to handle the) theatre crowax We hope the re-| ceivers of the Metropolitan Street Rall. | road will obey it. The service for the) after-theatre wufferers is something awful." OF COURSE IT MAKES THEM ALL FEEL GOoD. All 6f which will make the man who wants to go to South Ferry, and is obliged to walt at Thirteenth atreet and we dom | refuse | to Klghth avenue for fifteen dr twenty minutes to get @ car that will carry him there, feel more kindly toward the Public Service ". The com- mission haa sent its engineers to tn- Vestigute conditions on the lower west side, but further than to make a re- quent to the receivers to operate more through cars nothing has been done. An investigation of conditions on the Eighth avenue line reveals that the com- Plainte are justifate. Alderman Joseph M. Hannon is conducting a campaign to bring about better transportation serv- foe, but the best he has racetved so far fo @ suggestion that Canal street be made the terminus of the Eighth ave- nue line, owing to the heavy vehtole tramc on West Broadw: that th avenue care handle the tramc through to Bouth Ferry. The real grievance of the people of the lower west side Is that below Thir- teenth street cars run dom that when they are, seen pe put their heads out of the windows to look at them, Since the introduction of the Hudson tubes the Metropolitan has Practically made Thirteenth street the terminus. Of course, the franchise calls for the running of ca through to uth Ferry, and the recalv augurated policy of running a eats through to the end of the line as they possibly can and still maintain their franchise, FORCED TO CHANGE CARS AT THIRTEENTH STREET. It ts next to impossible to find a car on uh avenue marked through to South Ty. Many persons board them expecting they are to go through, only to be coughly informed when Thirteenth Street ts reached that ail must get out! and walt for a car that is marked Cor:-| luadt street-or South Ferry. Sometimes one happens along twenty minutes later, and the result le that there te a great scramble to board this car. When the district below Tiirt nh atres is reached it is impossible for one car to handle the traMc, ometimes passen- gers become so impatient at having to walt indefinitely in the cold and dis- \ereeable weather that they go over to Sixth avenue and take the “L.” An Evening World reporter atood at and Eighth avenue w four care come down the street and turn back there before a car | marked Cortlandt et happened along. It was a cold day and the women who were obliged to wait did imfort. The Public Service Commission admite that its in- Spectors saw nine cars turn back at Thirteenth street before one along bound for South Ferry, commission finda in thie state of faire only reason enough to mal request for more through care, { | of Issuing an order an ulring It to | be enforced. SAYS THE SERVICE DISQRACES THE CITY, ‘The service at all houre of the day 14 one weet side man, w city the e morning T left my at 1 o'clock, expecting to get to my business at 1.30, had ded only @ few! the fuse blew out and we| were ordere to get out It was more than an hour before another car came jalong to take us to Cortlandt street, What we want and will Insist upon gets ting le more care throughout the day Jand night that will take the people |through to the end of the line. | "We pay for a through ride, and that old racket of ‘take the car ahend' wae ng ago thrown Into the discard by other roads The Third avenue line went Into the hands of a receiver. The {same system that prevails upon the Fighth avenue line was in force there when Reeaiver) Whitridge took charge. He naw how ypiust wae this tumbiing people out before thetr destination was reached, and tmmed ately changed it," to High Hat, A reward of $25 has been offered for the return of « cap belonging to former Chief Bogineer J. Bradford Btevens of the Morristown, N. J, Fire Depart: ment. He Was riding down W shington |atreet yesterday when the wind |witsked the cap from his head and | bore it away. Mr. Btevens says the cap te an heirloom, having come down | to him from hie grandfather, ‘ ; ‘ on TS i senda cerning designe and materiale of dresses should be uddressed to the Fashion Editor of The Evening World. No pat- 4 = terna for designs eLootmies) in this column can be vviatneu, out with the descrip tion Jurniphed tt 42 a simple matter to work out patterns. 4 new and distinctive feature of thie department ts the illustration of the different pieces of the pattern necessary for the making of the gar- ment. It shows how easily the at- tractive design can be executed and aleo serves as a guide in cutting one's own pattern if auch ts necded. ' ae ANSWERS TO QUERIES. Dear Fashion Eéttor: 1 am a brunette with black hair and eyes, have medium complexion with red cheeks when cxcite’ What are my best colors for afternoon and evening? Am going to a dance and do not know what color to get, READER, would trimmed oe = All questions con- | ~ make a beautiful! evening gown of three winters ago? It only with bugle |s a pale blue messaline with trimming nee boven THE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY,, DECEMBER 30, 1911, PUBLIC ENRAGED | ORIGINAL FASHIONS FOR # # # & & HOME DRESSMAKERS DESCRIPTION. An attractive gown of | Gatk-bid¥ French serge is made with the thrée-. omg quarter length, sleeves in ‘one with the waist, which is lit to one side in’ front, forming a roundéd Qype: somely embroidered in Egyptian colors. ! Continuing diagonally across the front, | the line of the waist forms on either; hip, a pointed tab below the stitched , belt, which is held with large black velvet buckles. The skift ¢ plain, cut- ting diagonally a Md ity forme ing a rounded corner #@ thé Hem, which 1s embroidered to cofrespohd with the: same on the waist, Very narrow black silk braid finishes the line of opening; on the waist and skirt; also the neck ' and sleeves, the latter having a frill of lace as a dainty addition, The dress closes in the back and requires 4% yards of material. and bead embroidery across one side of the waist and the skirt draped up on the other side held with e handsome ornament just below the knee. ple of a dark brows would be pretty. Dear Fashion Editor: wit you kingly favor me with @ sug- gestion as to how I may remodel an JAMES McCREERY & CO. 23rd Street ANNUAT, SALE Commencing ‘Tuesday, January the 2nd. Waists, Muslin Underwear and Linens At exceptionally low prices. Advance weaves of Silks and Dress Goods" ~ For Spring, 1912. 23rd Streot 34th Street 34th: Street - _ JAMES MOGREERY & G0. WILL OFFER fe) THE REMAINING STOCK OF ‘WOMEN'S SUITS, GOWNS, COATS, WRAPS, HOUSE NEGLIGEES, AT PRO- NOUNCED REDUCTIONS, GOWNS AND 23rd Street TUESDAY AND WEDNESDAY, JANUARY THE 2ND AND 3RD 34th Street . ‘ PATTERN BASED OW 96 MODEL, of hand embroidery on the front of th waist and skirt, and sie; of fine.jace? ‘With some color chiffon. Am a blonde. ae and Oy 1 had thought to cover it fall from the belt Dear Fashion ¥atitor Kindly advise me how to ma ov @ black volle dress which is cut five Dear Fashion Editor: Am geventeen years of age and would appreciate your advice as to a suitable dress which I might wear to dances it inches deep ty on JUMPED FOR THEIR LIVES FROM BURNING HALL. Two Hundred Men, Women and Childrea Have Narrow Es. cape in Ohio. ASHTABULA, 0., Dec. 30.—Two hun- dred men, women and children narrowly escaped death in the Salvation Army hall here last night when the interior decorations incidental to a holiday ce! bration caught fire from one of the numerous candles on the Christmas wee. Before the guests fully realited their danger the interior of the hall was a mass of flames. The Salvation Army officers prevented a panic, and, oy breaking out the windows, all escaped with their lives. PENNILESS, A SUICIDE. “3. Gol water, N. ¥., Dead by Gas in Redner's Hotel. ‘The night manager of Redner’s Hotel ‘at Forty-second street and Lexington javenue smelled gas at 7 o'clock this | morning and traced it to the room of a |man who had come in late and registered as "J. Golden, Brewster, N. Y." The door locked and he called Policeman Judge, who forced it. Golden was in an arm chair with a gas tube in his mouth and a magazine he had been reading on the floor. A doctor from Bellevue said he had been dead for somé time. ‘No: letters or papers were found Indicating his Identity or. wiat| prompted him to end his life and he had no money. He was apparently“about twenty-eight rg old DEATH ENDS DANCE; COUPLES KNEELING DURING LAST RITES ! Miss, Salmon Stricken During Entertainment Given by Jus- tice Moss’s Daughter. Miss Florence Mo: daughter of Jas- tlee Joseph F. of the Court of {Special Sessions gave a dinner-dance last night at her home, No. 817 Bast Seventeenth street, to twelve girls w' were graduated with her from the Urau- line Academy a year ago, and to fifteen young men. The dinner over, 9.30 o'clock. The dinner had been a ranged by Miss Emma Salmon, forty, | who has been with the Moss family since she was a girl, and who since the death of Mrs. Moss three years has Jacted almost as a mother to the Jus- tice's three daughters and two sons. Miss Salmon was watching the dancers from a corner of the room when she be- came faint. She was carried to an ad- dancing started at Joining room and Juxtice Moss called. He saw that Miss Salmon was critically Ml and sent one of the men guests for the Kev. Father Ludlow of the Church of the Epiphany, Twenty-second street and Second avenue. When the priest got to the house the dn the hall, talking in whi tered the room where Mis: Salmon lay unconscious and while the last rites of the Church were administered the girls in their evening gowns and the men in evening sults knelt in prayer. Dr. Charles Siefert came. He could do nothing, Miss Salmon was dead. Acute indigestion had brought on heart fall- ure. Then the young men and women filed slowly from the house and word was sent to the Coroner's office of the sudden death. ‘Woman Faints While at Luncheon at Waldorf and Dies, Falling in a faint while lunching at the Waldorf-Astoria yesterday, Miss Julia Boorum of Oak Bluffs, Mass., was carried from the crowded dining room to the hotel's emergency hospital, where she died within a few minutes. Dr. R. 3, Adams, the hotel ph: ian, had tried to revive her with oxygen. Miss Boorum had been visiting her mster, Mrs. J. H. Gresham, of No. 11 West Ninety-first street. Mrs. Wesley G. Vincent, wife of Dr. Vincent of No. 172 West Seventy-ninth street, ca her aunt, Miss Boorum, who years old yesterday, and #1 shopping expedition. They wen! said Miss “Happy New Year’s” Edition of “<F'UN?? oe Sixteen (16) Bound 8, Puzzles, Tricks to Try, Amusing Conundrums, Comic Pictur Woe POL i Pages of Jolly Je: Scintillating With To-Morrow’s Sunday World Wit, Perplexing » Etc. Some Special Features: : Another New Fable in Slang by George Ade ; “Shopping,” a Most Laughable Monologue by Roy McCardell The Ballad of Missing Towns by Grayson N. Sherwen snob? Hézy— “Francis and the Flower Beds,” by Henry Tyrrell The Greatest Book of Fun Ever Distributed, FREE A Midnight Reverie by Roy McCardell That New York Getting Hotter Forecasts of 1912 Happenings by Old Propuets The Plain Girl Less Handicapped ' Than the Girl Helen Taft The Busiest Girl of 1912 With Fatal Beauty