The evening world. Newspaper, February 17, 1906, Page 14

1886 “Princess” Style Is the R_uling Scheme in Wedding Gowns. =a HE beautiful wedding outfit of the President's daughter is of interest not bewause the first young lady of the land has had everything A heart could desire in the choige of her trousseau, but because Alice Roosevelt has always enjoyed the reputation of being a correct dresser. Of course the wonderful wedding gown, with its heavy brocade made, especially for this ‘American princess” at the mills in Paterson, N. J., is the most interesting from the feminine standpoint of all the wedding outfit. Those who have supposed that Miss Roosevelt would turn a lavish hand to run riot in extravagant and ostentatious display have been mis- taken. The keynote of all the costumes in the most interesting of bride’s outfit is elegant simplicity. The wedding gown is of heavy white satin broche, the brocade design being in wreath effect. The secret of the composition of the material for this gown was guarded with the utmost precaution. When the twenty-five yards were completed the design was destroyed. The workman through whose hands the brocade last passed quote being taken from the looms was rewarded with a week's vacation ‘and $50 in gold, He also received instructions to remain quiet as to the details of the material, Miss Roose- velt herself designed the pattern of the brocade. This interesting wedding gown is made princess, with a splendid court train, Following out her own tastes of simplicity, the President's dangh- ter decided that no trimming should mar the beauty of the brocade itself. Only the yoke, which is of old point lace (the gown is the emplre princess style), is finished with a fall of the same old lace, while the sho:t puffed Sleeves are edged with the same ruffle effect. Going-Away Suit Is Also Made in Princess Style. Naturally, the next gown in point of importance is the going-away cos- ‘ume. Tan broadcloth is the material, which has been made up into the favorite style so strongly marked in the entire trousseau—the princess. The tan broadcloth, cut in the simple princess style, is trimmed in tan soutache braid, tan velvet and chiffon. The sleeves, which of course are elbow length, are finished with a cavalier cuff of velvet trimmed in the braid; from the cuff falls ruffles of chiffon. The collar is of chiffon, edged SALLLALLLLKASL LAL LAL LL SALSA SLAM MKS 3 President’s Daughter Is the Tenth Bride of the White House. LICE LEE ROOSEVELT is the tenth White House bride and the fourth daughter of a President of the United States to be married in the official residence of the nation’s Chief Executive. Miss Todd, a relative of “Dolly Madison, was the first bride, in 1811, when she married Congressman John G.:Jackson, of Virginia. President Monroe's daughter, Maria, was married to Mr. Samuel Gouverneur, of New York, in 1820. Daring John Quincy Adams's administration, in 1826, his son, John Quincy Adams, jr., married iis cousin. Miss Johnson. In the Jackson administration the davghter of Major Lewis, of Nashville, a warm personal friend of “Old Hickory,” was married to M. Paqueot, of Martinique, who was afterward French Minister ts the United States. It was also in this administration that Miss Easten, a niece of the President, was married to Mr. Polk, of Tennessee. During the Tyler administration the President's daughter, Eliza- beth, was married to Wilfiam Waller, of Virginia. In President Grant's time his daughter, Nellie, became the wife of Algernon Sartoris, and Miss Emily Platt nd Gen, Russell Hastings, a friend of the President, had the White House given over to them for their wedding. The ninth wedding within the White House walls was that of Grover Cleveland and Miss Frances Folsom during the first Cleve- , land term, ‘ SEK LKR ON RNR N NEN PN NN AIAKLKLLAAAAALAALALARALAMLLRLLAIAARI HH PRN N NN NNTP SSP PSS NN PPP NON Pw sw s ¥ ”, BLIZABETH TYLER 1944 Daring but Gasteful, Ghe Effects Evchibit Her Good Judgment, with velvet, while a yoke effect is formed of the velvet and braid com- bined. Alice Roosevelt's preferences for certain colors have long been ex- ploited ever since this interesting young woman began to command atten- tion by her exquisite taste in dress. All know the origin of Alice blue, and we have all heard thet the President's daughter does not like yellow. This bit of tradition will have to be exploded, for in the trousseau of Nicholas Longworth’s bride there dre a number of yellow gowns. Of these, two are pronounced in the “yellow yellow” of their tints. In fact one of the most stunning gowns in the White Houze bride's wedding out- fit is the stunning yellow satin which is made after Miss Roosevelt's own design. It is an evening gown, low necked with short puffed sleeves. The most striking feature of its design is the bodice. Miss Roosevelt did not order this remarkable guwn made Princess, but she did maintain the usght plain front in the bodice. This corsage is perfectly plain, in fact, it is a little severe for so young a matron as Mrs. Nicholas Longworth, but the fine carriage and dignified bearing of the President's daughter set off to advantage these severer styles, which would be most trying on young girls of the ingenue type. = The plain bodice is drawn tightly over the lining. It ends in a point at the waist line in front, without a girdle or a belt, not a fold or orna- ment to break the severe line. It comes down on the outside of the skirt similar to an old-fashioned basque. Silver Spangles with Flowers Embroidered Give Fine Effect. The low neck of the corsage bears the only trimming on this striking bodice. It is a design of silver spangles, which starts with an embroid- ered flower in the center and spreads out over the shoulders and below the bust, ending in a point. At the top of the spangled corsage folds of yellow maline give a soft effect. The skirt is heavily embroidered in silver spangled design around the bottom, Another yellow gown which disproves the bride of to-day's aversior to the color is a maguificently embroidered Japanese silk, a gift from the Em-~- press of Japan. This wonderful bit of embroidery was made into a tea gown the like of which perhaps no American girl can boast. The silk, itself of dull yellow, is embroidered in wonderful chrysanthemums, which range in every conceivable tiny of yellow from cream to the deepest sienna. ‘The tea gown is made with flowing steeves and a semi-cmpire effect. As marked as was Miss Roosevelt's fondness for the Princess style in forming her trousseau was her love of satin. A number of satin gowns, plain and brocade, are part of the wedding outfit. One beautiful pink broche is made Princess entrain, and is trimmed in Duchess lace and pink chiffon. A black net dinner gown over black taffeta, with velvet chiffon crushed, girdle and sleeve knots is a striking but simple costume, One of the most artistic gowns in the wedding trousseau is of Pompadour silk, Louis Quins: Style Effectively ; Shown in This Fine Creation. ‘This dainty and picturesque gown is made elong the Hines of the famous beauty of the Louis Quinze reign, The skirt is cut full, with big pleats pver ~ cie hips, and folls in a sweeping train in the back. The bodice is draped, and a pointed girdle, which is brightened hy a touch of rose, gives a long-waisted effect. The low neck is finished with old lace, and the sleeves are completed with a Louis Quinze cuff, from which falls a ruffle of old lace. Of the many gowns which furnish this trousseau the heavy silks and more pretentious brocades are really in the minority. Miss Roosevelt exer- eised her own girlish taster in selecting her wedding outfit, and this natural preference is shown !n the many dainty and youthful frocks of fluffy light materials. Of soft chiffons, flower and plain, of delicate colors; liberty silks, with baby waists and full skirts, there are a plenty. Of summer gowns Mrs. Nicholas Longworth will have an unlimited supply. Of these some of the most beautiful are handsomely embroidered Hnens and dainty, embroldered batistes. P The Ungeric in this interesting trousseau {is the daintiest that a tasteful bride ever purchased. Simple elegance again Is the keynote, and fine hand embroidery, rather than the fluffier and showler laces, predominates in the wonderful suits of lingerie the bride of Congressman Longworth has stored in her wardrobe. : Never has th» weddiny outfit of an American girl elicited so much inter- 2st, and never has one of such elegance been personally supervised so exclu- sively by the bride herself.