The evening world. Newspaper, April 30, 1904, Page 8

this pleasing afternoon costume. for the lower half of the sleeve. B LACK lUberty satin, lace and ruffles of nccordion-plaitea chiffon make ‘The bodice 1s entirely ef the Ince save which 1s fashioned of the black satin. The Waist inn fort of bolero blouse opening over a vest rormed by two rut- {J Mes of the accordion-plaited chiffon. form a suspender effect over the shoul ‘Two narrow bands of the black satin ders, stopping at the walst, which has @ high, round Lelt of the black satin. The skirt ts gathered from the hips and ‘| on which the very choicest of the gowns which he had brought with him from T will be a white summer,” said Redfern, and his tone had the finality of a weather prophet nnnouncing that ft would be a fine day. The king of frockmakers, the French-English inventor of the taflor gown, was seated on a Marte Antoinette sofa near the windows of his yw York houne, at No. 668 Wifth avenue, surrounded by dress forms ia Paris for tho Redfern exhinit at St. Louts were majestically arrayed, “Not so white, perhaps as some provious summers,"’ he continued, “for this year two other shades will compete with white, though they will not touch Its supremacy, Ah, no! These are pink, which will be used to the practical exclu- sion of other colora for evening frocks, and a new shade called crocus blue, of the delloate tint seen in tho flower from which ft takes {ts name, which will ap- SRN RR wmall collar and plain coat sleeve, What we call a step collar of cerise velvet 1s used, and the addition of cerlse buttons giv very smart effect, “Generally speaking, however, I prefer the plain horn buttons on tailor gowns, With these shoes of black patent leather with tops made of the same material ag the gown are worn, The patent leather shoes with tops of shepherd's plaid are very smart. “There {s no eolor more favored than another in the tailor frocks, Whatever sults the taste of the wearer is correct. “You ask about brown and champagne color. Kverybody 4s wearing them now, and therefore they are no longer good. “Hate? There will be many tub or Hngerle hats worn with the cotton gowns. arc cool and generally very becoming. “Gloves, stockings, parasols? Of course, they match the gown. “Many of my most beautiful frocks have already been shipped to St. Louis,” Th a HIS gown of chenill tucked from the hips, dotted net over shaded silk shows the full sk which {s @ revival of the 1890 period. The shii and gathered round waist has a yoke of white chiffon crossed by zontal bands of ribbon an inch and a halt wide, The sleeves are elbow Jength caught in two gathered puffs and finished by a flounce of tl @ narrow ribbon belt, widening at the back. About skirt there is a fiat band of the narrow ribbon and thick ruche of the net. This gown is apt to add | ay net, of lderabbly to pear in morning and efternoon frocks, eapectnily of the cont and skirt vartety, “For morning wear the matorials used will beetamines, chnvases, volles and taffetas; a great deal of taffeta, which scems to be very much Ilked by Amerl- formed alternately of ruffles of the accordion-plaited chifron and triple folds @f the black satin, ending in @ demi-train. The sleeves mre narrow to the elbow and made of the lace and ending in a huge gauntlet puff of the satin, conoluded Mr, Redfern, “and I fiitend to follow them myself to-morrow morning. I will return to New York within a week and spend some time'here. Iam the the wearer and should only be worn by a stender woman. The hat finishes the costume is of the large picture shape and fs of ecru strat The gurban {s of plaited chiffon finished at the left side with three drooping ontri plume: A A Little | A Little A HEART ROMANCE By ‘‘The Duchess.’’ rish Girl. “Oh. never! Never!"* “I tell you yes, You know his ad. cans; linens, white ecru and crocus blue and some greens trimmed with bands of white. For afternoon and evening thore will be embroidered batiste and entire frocks of allk lice." “You mean the old-fashtoned Spanish lace with large rose designs? “Yes, the old-fashioned Spantsh lace, but the designs are not large flowers. Theao lace gowns aro more beautiful in pure white or cream, but they are some- times dyed In any preferred color. Novel Trimming in Evening Gowns. “For evening wear I have introduced a novel trimming of shirred ribbon In vertical bands, ending in love-knots of the flowing ribbon. These bands are of graduated lengths, and through knots of varying distances on the skirt natural roses are Introduced. This trimming of fresh flowers 1s new and very beautiful. ‘Ono of the model gowns for my St. Louls exhibit is of pink satin trimmed with theso shirred bands of slinded ribbons on the skirt, which Is tight about tho hips and bouffant around the feet. h these bands the trimming of fresh roses 1s introduced. The bodice ts ver n, tight-fitting at the sides, as many to the new bo are, with a vest showing a narrow fillet of ribbon crossing tt in ne vost Js defined @y bunds of the shirred ribbon, which meet A ° xig-s0g fashion, Xe Irish Girl. j in front and tle. can easily be discovered, how-| “About the square cut corsage thore 1s 0 narrow flounce of spangled or opal- ever." escent lace. I use this narrow lace a great deal to soften the decolletage, but It “T don't want to discover t,"" says ]is In no sense a bertha, aa it must not cover the shoulders. The sleeves are of Abe Parmiaston of Ga she, covering her face with her handa. |tulle, starting with a flat shirriny, followed by two puffs and ending in a doep- ! “Then, why are you crying!" asks ho| pointed flounce, Fresh roses head the simulated vest and trim the sleeves, i ew ole AM coldly, ug know that the truth “You notice that this gown Is tlsht-tit on the hips. French women have lies bare between us, cease from decep- | refused to accept Te? gathering or shirring nbout the hips that T see on many of Ralph Anketell, whoin she bello» « oe Carian, Se ectgilaricig Purselt ton, ‘Tell me this” (his tone growing | the gowns here. It {i apt to produce a clumsy effect, and t do not belleve Ameri- Gitreate by her family, whe decides to COV!) almost frozen now): “when you pro-| can women will like it.any better than the Parlwlennes, ‘The bodices have elther ie Eye im at night at a raiiroad sta-; Pased to leave your home with him| a very pointed or a very round high belt. tio but as the train arrives abe lores heart | where were you going?” Bir tain’ refurra to g0. tee without | belng ent Yeaving Burgines with hei the atation jen the time arrives she cannot sum- fan Gourage {0 make the confer Rhe vecke © midnieht intervi siphon 8 balcony of her home and Celle er atory. UDDENLY Sir Ralph turns to tho S ing girl at his side, come in!" saya he at last, roughly. “Come in out of this cold. Faithless and worthless ag I think you ‘and know you, still you must live, I suppose, to the undoing of other men.” ‘He hes laid his hand on her arm and @rawn her to the open casement. The Mghts from within falling more 4! Hpctly on her face wakens him to the ides elt] going Sree AUR acter aidner the next When To his gleter, Lady Stanning" (falnt- he had arranged to recetye yout” yh, No! He~he only settled about our inorning wefore T—I—lett. .) “It seems a “1 dare gram wlll bring him to you tn no time. say" (grimly). “But a tele- Well, and so you were to go to Lady Stanning, !n the middie of the night, without previous arrangement with her of any sort?!’ Bo he said.” “Did it never occur to vou thet Lady Stanning might not be exactly pleased to recelye an unknown young lady at an hour approaching midnight?” “I did not think—I-—” “And he" (with growing wreth)—"this precious lover of yours—did-he never think elther? Did tt never dawn upon his vacant brain what a cul de sac he was leading you into? Pah! Mr. Eyre Shouldn’t Cover Pretty Necks. “Collars? The Frenchwoman will wear the collarless gown; {t 1s so much cooler. It seems difficult to make the American woman nocept this fashion, And yet it should not be, for hax as a rule a beautiful neck, and it ts very be- oming to her. Still, tyont Har, Coats for evening wear will be white ang of clot! e de chine solt materials, “Another gown that I am takin: s is of white canvas trimmed with gold cloth and hundreds of small gold buttons, The coat, which ts of the short Eton style, has a fitted collar of the cloth of gold velled by coarse white draped cape slecves, ts trimmed with lines of the gold buttons, which are also shown in rows on the almple ekirt. ‘There is @ round belt of the gold cloth yelled by lace, “And now I am going to tell you of the very Intest thing In Parle—what they Gall there ‘le dernior cri do le mode.’ It is the very long coat severcly tailored, of shepherd's plaid, with a cerise step-colar and a cerlse bet. In these long coats 1 have returned to the extreme severity which distinguished the taller gowns which I was the first to introduce, Gave that it is ftted to the woman's figure, the new coat reactifng about to the knees, and worn with a walling sldrt. is cut exactly Ike a man‘a, with the smaitest lati pon you. You can «0 your T mine, You" (unstead- ‘Not even one regret hs inderstand that?" “Well tr" ‘there Js something with ‘you aulte fidgeting awkwardly —sometlit ea" (faintly) {the fhowar tact + : 7 flower In his coat. fagt that the tears aro running down| muy we the model of all virtue, all] ‘qe (faulty. a says ‘el! —no @ pauses as if afr something? ” wer cheeks. genius in r eyes: in mine he ts Att it Meanie be anour Byte oe You are crying!" says he, fiercely, ‘He jets her go. Crying—for Eyre! Ho eurbs his passion by a supreme effort, eyes ptill show the angry grief that is consuming him, “If you crying for Eyre,” he, “that can soon be set right, Judge by his manner last night*—— He has betrayed himself! Ag if airuck, the girl starts back from him. “You ere there! You saw! You says To not be alfent? 1 merely a “Oh, yes!" sa idiot agrees with a sob. He had ex- ment ¢ th the verdict against hini-ie than he had prepared himself to ut he wap very kind—very.” anid civ hurriedly, “He was kind to me nen, —when every one was against If--it, Thad liked him Q little bit eT smould h be id he ul is He dk rays he wenty, Io does him’ this: thn “Walted? For what? Could not you" the. shelter” of the to go on all It {8 only an experl- anxtous} ent. Who knows how it will end?) Tt's—t NNow-T wropose to you all over again. | it." I beg, I entreat you to murry me! You) “so ho very well med very uneasy about might." indignantly, me!" n Her protty head ts hanging | voice has aunk into a whis- | jot afttor—after- i that—atter every | Milsa AieDarmot raises her Head alow- a ‘and looks at him, Reprosah is in lance Y Ay were you not Ike Save ar her stick up for nd. wormywvond; but to shake the good tablished een them now put t of for a moment, rel about '@ S3 gall sho. How ‘cold 1 be all on his side now, The rer 18] i bd yout’ and sirong ‘ mber att 1 do; and yo r| aes hist Aten iigitiy ‘is the second time Eis these Nhat les eine 9 ve fc You know ho told you at, he Nad brought me. me to }. 2 1 told you, ra gotten him to. her ui 1 don’t think badly of him of the opportunity of seeing in her own country the American woman, whom’I consider the most beautiful in the world, and who by her unlimited capacity for spending money on clothes has given me my greatest Spportunlty to carry out my and Mr. — What’s the Use to Get Up a Nice Appetizing Supper for Him? He Is Downtown at His Office En= jJoying Himself Balancing His Books and Doesn’t Care When He Gets Home! “Shut My Mouth and Keep It Shut, You Say? All Right. Lionel, You Dear, Sweet Thing,” “You know T am all alone, mamma} ‘I am of an unsuspecting nature, Mr. has gone over to Brooklyn to see some| Nagg, but you oan’t fool me about friends who are having a funeral, 1) Your balancing books. Why don't you had to stay home, of course. I neyer| bsiance them in the middie of the Bet out of the house, I never go eny-| month? where, I never have eny. pleasure. ‘Don't try to excuse yourself, You “There was a thick-set man here| ght have known I was all along. this “the captain} WhY don't you do something for me and when\I told brother Willie about ft he remembered ho had to go visit a schoolmate who works in a fertilizer udio in New Jersey and hurried away only think of your business cares eng how to make money, “Please keep quiet and don’t fuss 80 much, you say? By Roy UWestrated by GENE CARR, (Copyright,296, by the Press Publishing Company, The New York World.) did not make @ stand. But I have Riven In too muh to you. with shirred ehifton and has a large plume over the hair, tt has long Streamers knotted at the back and then allowed to flowsloosely over shoulders in a fashion which milliners are trying td. make’, “What would Mr. Smig say? TI shall sond for him! I am afraid of you, unnatural glare! “Oh, Mr. Nagg, do not be brutal, A woman needs to be ruled by kindnes Remomber, I am only a poor, week! ana pice wo ma If wil eyes have a: doafing around ti house, you say? "Oh, Mr. Nagg, he is only a boy of twenty-six, and he is so fond of you. “If my mother ever gays another Your to dwarf hors. Do you ow iy iN "VN oy Andy. of course! vho morning, saying ye to the “vo alla a 'Re | treated me? What ticle a 8 ever! wore vou thinktag off? | 8° wanted to sce brogher Willfe'—some- instead of Gavoune a} your dy werner ond 1 only try to act for give in Mie this, we would never: , or] colder? Why, 1 was afraid to go nes Vv that." ! 4 any trouble. fe Aiketat ue. Riles form ys you! Once I lseed vou re aye 8 2 Xtonermot, |hne abgut his ceMpoting gouvenirs.) "wnt you never think of ma You] ‘yoy are tired of my brother Willle Anketell stops as if struck, have your freedom; you can keep mo or] “Oh, but It waa all for EVEN o'clock, M tt it I gave that exc: to a1 ism: ard for sitting silent under, worry, Certainty I will do pana once again addresses her. His) pected vitunaration—teara—abusc—sup- | 168,19, 69 ng YOU wills but" (agsion- | All for himself. In my opintont S Valook. ‘Tals ioe poet aide for being inte on she lant signe’ ot | your tarmpers! Twill do anything ora yolce now ts under control, though his | port of Eyre, But thle—this open agree. | Sey" 5 ‘ouwrong him!" warmly. "Kou 4o, Pisabeares i$ pedal lo "| aew it would oome to thie a I| not look so anary: angry before! “Here is your house ah get your slippers. -Can Polit atts ute till I Ax. you some strawberries salad? The supper 4en't Cry aloe a9 tara should be for you. ++ “Ah, L am 69 wad so oe aa hut my mouth and xen we fae ri ] You aay} z ‘Ail right, Lionel, you floats thing. Oh, sf you were one aes Ta: 1 idly) have broken ous engagement, | Werm room wil * Xha what do you eail Ie \ t deal. And Andy | over the back tance rel as i i throw. her | and dotermined! ae eaves FU Faust 6 a 4 ” w dare you talk that way to me,| word in this house you wi! row ri olay ead wee me to dail lapgike Hentasta says be, standing) @ wean, oF pepe avaug fut ot pour it You—ygu | wand so Tam left all alone, You didn't| Mr. Nage? You have been drinking. | out, you pay? nati tee ae naan Toate eI pot.” 1f sho had not been win! this fresh knowledge, Meant so myvh fresh shathe, she ) iy I onsgead tue Ines. ot taking her } ling her hands pegely in hla own begin alf ever t you free~ * (pressing er back trom very far. hut. still far now, ‘i says Anke: 6 *Don't) Am when he nervous the “ight! East- impro itt eee at as {fin fear 2 ‘OLABEy ani io pata fia’ Prigntened her. trill ‘You are ‘ae!3 | ever 1 cy ey eu) 4. YOU ai 0 her face in spite of hei Sealy a, her "Because tT ye do imdeed |” ee “You ere sure of it?” minute, alte wre." ing. “T wish you lad been sure a little enriier. The waittruy. has made it (enthslastionlly) “very. Nigh ould I think of ing to help you?" something lovely first thing in the morn- asks he fy ; Lahall gay something lovely to fart iain alah, woodentesst sigiit Good- {avin realy A “Y phouldnet. Some enemy has been advising you to be brutal! You never talRed this way to me before! “You tell me to shut up? Has tho world come to an end? What do you mean? Do my ears deceive me? My husband actually raises his voice at me! rab Ae wannace is at an end, you home, “mp0 I stay away. from my * nse te my. reward. ‘This ty selene Bros + Wout pom tom gs for blag. ed and patient. know I was alone, you say? Well, you wouldn't have cared, “My doar mamma @nd my ttle brother Wille would not leave me alone, But because It is the last of the month you make the excuse thet you have to stay downtown to balance books-end never talols of your wits “Oh, My. Nagg, you-ere bewitched! ders. I never heard yon act this way before, Yes. I know I may have been a, little trying at times, but then I have a! the worry of the house on my gshoul- ed ehut a, or you'll make me? how can you bs toe Be er Posi! Saar #0 y, 1 am dis oe FINK ' ib makes fect, you ‘ald the ia the vhone Saeee p soales on the plano. "Yea," answered her father, hie! be cross, iets