The evening world. Newspaper, January 23, 1904, Page 5

Elaborate Picture RE are no garments in which en take a more universal in- terest than In the datnty creations of lace and silk and muslin designed to be worn only in the boudoir, The time when a negligee cqstume in- cluded curl papers and a gown showing j the most extreme disregard for every- thing save comfort is no more, and nowadays a girl spende just as much time and thought, and even money, on her negligees as she doca on the most elaborate evening gowne in her ward- robe. J doir is no longer @secret chamber whose threshold may be crossed by the fair owner only. For now, clad in @ charming lounging frock of silk or wool, she receives her most intimate feminine friends there, Hence the ne- easity of having the negligee not only suited to the style and coloring of the wearer, but also to the dainty room in which she sees her friends. Thus no woman of taste would think of wear- ing an eof the new copper shade of green ip a room hung or papered with Dresden blue, nor would she array her- self in a garment of any of the beau- tiful violet tints, as the sharp contrast would dgtract both from her gown and the color scheme of her room N the new order of things the bou- OR boudoir wear the woman of taste and expensive pocketbook affects long, sweeping garments made of the sheer China or Japanese silks, of Mb- erty satins or mousselines, the new crystalline, with {ts ribbed surface, or the woollen goods, such as nun’s veiling, henrietta, cashmere and crepe albatro For these laces of all kinds—fine, coarse, of the stringy variety, the little blond laces and footing dear to our grand- mothers are used as trimming, Yards and yards of them are required to pro- duce the foamy, billowy effect seen on the newest negligees. T shapes are most popular. with women who strive’ to look their prettiest in negligee, A pretty garment in either of these two styles will be a good mvestment, for not only is {t suitable for boudoir ' wear, but {t will not be at all amiss for afternoon tea or even for an informal * family UJnner, Ent td be successful the Empire gown must Be very carefully cut and very eleverly fitted, else the effect will par take more or less of the impression pro- duced by the late Inmented Mother Hubbard wrapper. The Empire frock to be.successful must be fashioned upon a perfectly fitted aud boned Ining, and the loose, soft drapery which composes the outer portion must be so draped that every Ine and curve of the svelte figure is defined, and there must be no hint whatsoever of a loose, non-ftting sacque «bout it. Stabe gown different is the Jose- latest of Dame Fashion's fancies; HE Empire and the Josephine phine gown, which is the very end since it accords well with the gen- Peignoir of White Nun's Veiling. AINTY Creations of Lace, Silk and Muslin to Be Worn in the Boudoir Oniy—The Empire and Josephine Shapes Most Popular for Negligees— Negligee of Lavender Silk and Blond Lace Ruffles—Charming Rose-Tinted Soie Laine Negligee. Frocks—A Beautiful of an abundant success among fash- fonable women. The extremely long shoulder line 1s here combined with an extremely decollete corsage; and the short waist {s further emphasized by the very deep girdle, which in many in- stances reaches up to the armhole, The rather scant skirt {s attached to the corsage lining, though in its newer manifestations the Josephine style Is cut with a much fuller skirt than it was in the days when the Empress of the French—and she liked to consider her- self Ikewise the Empress of Fashton— gave her name to this style, In the original models the skirt extended but very little below the ankle. Now, how- ever, the Josephine takes a skirt as long and as sweeping as the modiste con- siders desirable, Al tured 1s of rose-tinted sole laine, cut with a low V-shaped neck and a bolero bertha of coarse lace alternat- ing with strips of the material. The bertha {s edged with lace, showing sharp V points, and the neck also is CHARMING Empire negligee pic- egligee of Lavender Silk and Lace- vutlined with ft. The sleeves are long, irregular butterfiies of lace and sole jaine, . NOTHER beautiful gown is of A shaded blue, blouse made with o deep flounce headed by lace inser- tlon, The front of the skirt 1s orna- mented with pear-shaped insertions of lace, The waist has the long 1530 shoulder, and {s finished by a deep lace bertha and the slceves full to the el- bow with flounces of the lace. The low neck is cut V-shape and {s finished by a knot of ribbon, IMPLB and graceful in its long lines S is the peignolr of white nun's vell- ing illustrated. It has deep Roman bands of lace outlining the front/hnd the flounce at the bottom of the skirt and set in horizontal bands on the loose sleeves. There is a collar of white chiffon made with tiny pin tucks and circular Insertions of lace, edged with a lace frill, lavender gilk and blond lace ruffles. The front, ornamented with lace bands, has a simulated panel effect pro- duced by flounces from the outer band. The sleeves are elbow puffs, with in- serted vertical strips of lace, finished by two lace flounces. f[sene beautiful negligce is of VERY elaborate picture frock for boudoir wear has a deep collar of lace and long, wide sleeves, orna- mented lace bands and réws of pin tucks and finished with lace flounce. The skirt has vertical bands of inser- tion and more lace set in scroll design about clusters of grhduated pin tucks. STRIKING matinee of the short, kimono variety 1s of cobalt’ blue china silk, made with clusters of nun’s folds on the sleeves and on the long front breadths, It is cut V shape, and clusters of folds and lace outline the meck. Sunburst tucks confine the fulness at the byst line. HE woman who cannot find a style of spring coat, jacket or costume to sult her requirements will be difficult to please, for the variety styles of the current season have been retained, modified only in details and the disposition of trimmings, and to these have been added the Eton and bolero, which disappeared temporarily in the autumn to return to a position of greater importance, It 1s safe to prophesy that the long, tight-fitting cont, having received the stamp of Parisian approval, will be a favorite in early spring. Loose coats, both short and long, will be made in silk volle, canvas and lace, choice of length being left entirely to individual taste. T 4nd coats will be even more elabo- rate for spring than they are this Season and that loose coats—4 to 42 inches long—will be made with cape fichu or pelerine effects, collarless and with sleeves plaited, puffed or flowin: Rumors from abroad have reached us of the vogue of very long, half-fitting coats of black taffeta or peau de sole, such as worn in 1860 with lace pele: ines. It is also stated by those in a position to “speak with authority” that tho short, close-fitting Jacket 1s in for a run, It presents itself as a rival to the Eton and blouse jacket. with pos- Ullion, which will undoubtedly be fa- vored as a part of the short walking costume, singe long coats, or even the half-length Russtan coats, are not to be worn with this style of skirt. Capes of the epaulet cut and sleeves of a variety of shapes are sometimes added, but it 1s HE probabilities are that all cloaks was never greater. Most of the leading wenerally conceded that the smartest Negligee of Rose Tinted Soielaine. specimens retain their original severe coat outlines. T plaited basque is a dressy garment and therefore preferred by women who wish to combine both a walking and visiting toflet in one costume. As the trend of fashion 1s toward all kinds of shoulder draperies, one is jus- HE blouse coat with gathered or Gown of Blue Shaded Louisine. in sheer weaves have the preference, and in fancy weaves monotones are con- sidered most desirable, Volles, etamines and kindred sheer fabrics of wool, or sill and wool mixed, will next season have a flerce struggle with silks for fashionable supremacy. ‘The favorable position achieved by mohair fabrics in the past 1s strength- ened by the attractive features of the spring lines, which show astonishing variety, especially in sulting effects, which have a lustre equal to taffeta and softndss of finish quite unusual. There jome smart effects in whites and creams, with jacquard designs for dressy wear. The clan plaids have also beon produced and are counted on as good materials for the shirt waist cos- tume. Bordered volles and linens will be a strong feature—not the narrow, insig- nificant borders which might be used as ® trimming, but as wide as half the are Ufied in counting on the cape costume, and this appearance ts given to many of the jackets by a sleeve cap extension, It {8 probable that the long caps which reach almost to the elbow will later on represent the sleeve, the under part being removed to show the sleeve of the blouse worn underneath, Military styles will be continued throughout the spring. Rain and trav- elling coats are securing more attention and interest than for some time and| spring models are decidedly attractive. | Made of the light-colored coverts and brilliantines, with a neat tailor finish, | they have quite a smart appearance, | even in pleasant weather, They are generally double-breasted with curved-| back seams and tight-fitting fronts, | wide coat sleeves and coat collars with | or without revers, The ndjustable cape {s in plain, round military shape, quite deep, or simply the epaulet cape start- ing from a stitched band over the shoul- ders, le the results of spring business as far developed is that quiet effrord in dress pods will lead. Plain fabrées HB consensus of opinion based on Fair Woman and the Man Whose Salary She Spends. “My husband knows the difference between a hat and a creation.” ° “What Is it?’ "Leven do! Ih) ed ‘The 1904 World Almanac end En- cyclopedia gives ten thousand facta “My husband asked me this morn- Ing If | had darned his sox yet. | said no, and asked him if he had bought me the opera wrap he prom- sed me.” “And then?” Sq2l_ trend of the 1s styles—although [on @ thousand topioa, Prive 25 cents, Le sald ae long as he didn't give a - ox we ~ Daughter—I wonder if Pa is ever homesick? Ma—Yep. When he's home! The 1904 World Almanac and En- cyclopedia gives facts about the Philippines, Price 25 cents, by Ab ao Miss Browne (between gasps)— Thie—le—the—hilHest—road— i—ever— came—over!” Mies = Black—No,—it’s—not — hilly. ‘The—man—that — made —this—trap— put—oval wheele—on—it—inetead—of— —- length of the skirt, with rich broche or jacquard designs, ‘The vogue of the full akirt {s respon- sible for these borders, as they can be more easily utilized than was possible with the gored skirt, Considerable prominence is gt ven to Sray In the color range of dress goods, Champagne and pongee shades are also strong. A lead the spring fashions, also a revival of many of the fabrics in vogue at that time; but the moditying touch of the present will be noticeable, The pointed Tudor waist is gaining sround. High girdles and bertha effects mus retained and flounces of every ssi wi post dth will be placed on the “Net top" laces will b. je in great di mand for flounces and frills, aaa net ais overs to match will be much used in accessories as well as in and waists. Every to the fore. The sneind, latest noveity RLY Victorian styles will certainly of net lace |, The snowdrop lace is the Hats are to be smaller, acco: rding to the first showing of imported models modified tricorn and a low-crowned hat with curved brim much smaller than qT latest fad is the peacock feather the part on which fashion has seized, and it appears not, only in de- trimmings, ribbons, &c., but In Jewelry and accossories, belt fastenings, hatpins, The square bow finishing the girdle Just below the bust 1s one of the novel latest imported models made with deep girdles, yogue for balls and dinnery, made of heavy silks or rich satins, plain or Leth on waist and skirt Chifron flowers ere more seen than and the more loosely they are attached and the moro carelessly they droop and sidered, Real Valenciennes 4s finding favor un- The box turban Is retained; als@ the those of this season, design. The “eye” of the feather ts signs of dress goods, silks, buttons. brooches and shaw! pins. touches and ts seen on a majority of the Princess dresses are to be much tn Drew ade, trimmed with artificial flowers ever among evening gown trimmings, sway the more effective they are con- precedented within recent years and no el ees se eRe oe caaeraet Matinee of Cobalt Flue China Silk. Boudoir Picture Frock of Pink Taffeta. LOAKS, Jackets and Coats for the Spring—The Long Tight-F itting Coat Has Paris’s Approval and Will Be the Season’s Favorite—All Gacments Will Be Elaborate—The Blouse Coat with Gathered Plaited Basque Is Very Dressy —Military Styles Will Continue—Shoul- der Draperies Are Popular. lace is more coveted than genuine old val., creamy with age. T women. The smooth-faced gown is considered ‘.smarte! than the rough textured, however fine. ee gowns aro both plain and elaborately trimmed, short for street wear oF lon sleeve. Taey are almost invariably for carriage use. ‘The leaning toward deep rich dark hues is very not! Paris for spring wear. Loose elbow sleeves hanging in or scallops are to be much used over the bare arm or over a close under-| de this way on all the new evening gowns and blouse models, with hanging ornaments often on the points. A Lian dency noticed on the newest slecvo to define the inside line of the arm by several rows of up-and-down shirring on the order of the oldpfashioned mous- quitaire, T skirt models are no longer down, but are allowed to fly free from the hip Ii Many of the new skirt models ‘that sre clone Otting at the hip hove tunto effects or over'arping bias sections of :he material, one above AILORS and dressmakers are turn- than ever for both old and young tones and iceable in points HE box and side plaits on the latest A MUSICAL DUEL. PRRMANN KLBIN fn a_ recent book on music and musicians tels this story: “Once, I remember, our party of four was joined by Tamagno vhen the celebrated Italian tenor was aying ‘Otello’ at the Lyceum, ‘We all supper together after pertorm- neo and were tn the jolliest of moods. Tamagno had a slight cold on the chest, but protested that it made no difference whatever in the singing quailty of bis head tones. Upon this Lassalle offered to wager that he, could sing higher with this talsetto than Tamagno with his 'voce di petto,’ Tne challenso was accepted and forthwith the two began 4 ,vooal dined the-lke ef wich I am cantata 5. hans) acedtaees n, bare ry ote Can A’s and B fats, as quickly emporio to with the fal- sotto equivalents \from Lassalle's sturdy throat. Then the Italian went ‘ono better” and the Frenchman, In order, 45 he eaid, to hatp himself up the seals, mounted his chalr and emitted the B natural whereupon Tecagao also stood upon his chair and brought out not only a hikh C but a ringing D flat. Lasealle Jan Eton coat that also shows the overs ing out more black cloth costumes | lack cloth | t hed | was now for mounting the table, but this being ‘ruled out! as an unfair advantage over a leas athletic opponent mucot ter the other, from waist to hem, There is a plain panel front. A French gown with such a sit hee lapping bands of the cloth going around the figure. It 1s quite the vogue to wear two pieces of fur: one a small cravat of ermine, its ends knotted or hanging straight under an embroidered waist- coat, one button only of which ts fas- tened, while deooping about the shoul- ders is thé stole of sable or moleskin, This two-piece feature is ingitated in” the finish of new cloth coats with smart effect. The “pouch” Is a thing of the past in the blouse waist. “ See eee) For THIRTY YEARS the Standard of tae Purity and Excellence 4