The evening world. Newspaper, January 16, 1904, Page 5

~~ HEATRE Waists Are of Chiffon and Lace, Set in Dia- mond Designs — Winter Hats Are of Beaver, Trimmed with Two Har- monizing Plumes—Lilac jand Amethyst ‘Are Used lin Combination — For Theatre and Opera Wear White Malines and Ostrich Plumes. HE wheel of fashion, Nike the wheel of fortune, turns and turns, and each fresh revolution brings some jnew and startling development of style into being. In former times there were but two or three seasons in the vear when any }radical change became apparent in !women’s custumes. | Now, howe: verything 1s con- {tara varying. Thera are no longer y set periods for the launching of ew ideas in dressmaking and millinery, in full flower in shop windows and on Broadway and Fifth avenue thave a verve and grace all their own, The newest of the long coats which T's midwinter styles which are now are still high in favor, a broad box plait'down the centre of the back has been introduced, this being stitched down and pressed flat to just below the waist line where ft is left to flare and form the extra fullness of the skirts. Box plaits, both single and double, ap- pear also on’ the most striking of the midwinter skirts. Thetr most popular application ts in the apron or tabifer front which 1s particularly effective when single backward-turning plaite are used on either side of them. STRIKING fillustration of the mode is the military costume of dull rea cloth pictured. It has long tight-fitting coat with box plaits front and back, with inserted collar and broad turn-over ouffs of white cloth showing ciroular applications of gold braid. The skirt has box plaits front and back and is heavily stitched around the bottom. MARKED feature of the newest styles 1s the vogye for velvet as a trimming accessory. The vel- vet gown has been with us since the season opened, but the most striking gowns are now made of cloth with velvet trimmings, Paris a very clever use 1s made of velvet, both of the ribbon and the piece bias bands. The gown itself is a rich shade of pinkish red cloth, with a satin finish, the tint being somewhat between the flamingo pink and a Jao- quemenot rose red. The blouse of chif- fon velvet is in practically the same tint as the cloth, and is relieved with 0* a very recent importation from "violet Be ste ' Mac and Amety : Tum . Gown Drpailletted Tulle- eppliques of ecru Russian guipure. ‘The gown proper, however, has a blouse cloak of the oloth, handsomely braided in a lengthwise pattern, with dull Etrus. can gold braids, which take on some- thing of a tarnished appearance, this dull luster toning in well with the rather brilliant tint of the cloth. There is a deep crush girdle of chiffon velvet high under the arms and sloping sharply downward back and front. A stole cravat of braided cloth passes around the neck and crosses over thi bust, this being edged with bias velvet, and the plein band ouff which finishes the simple puff sleeve is decorated in the same manner. Tho skirt is shirred into the waistband and falls in very full folds to the feet. There are two ahirred ruffles posed one immediately \bove the other, each ruffle being edged with the velvet ribbon, the dull Btrus- ean gold braid in sizes being used with excellent effect in conjunc- tuon vulth the velvet. With this is worn a pelerine of os trich feathers. in 0 pale a tint of pink that one has to look twice to make sure that it is not a white which has taken on @ rosy tint from its surround- ings. The pelerine is arranged with a cape design over the shoulders, this meeting in a point at the bust line, where three. strands of irregular length make a finish, these falling to well be- low the knees, FAH flat, long scarf composed of three T or four or even seven strands en ing in many tassels, {s the latest development in ostrion feather garments, aver WitkK other shoulder pieces of the revived Victorian era are all to be seen made of the fascinating and universally be- coming material, and there is not a fol- |lower of fashion who can possibly afford it who 1s without, a wrap of ostrich feathers, PANGLED robes are still with us, but with a difference, and a very marked difference indeed at that. The midwinter season brings us the pailletted robe wherein several sizes and often several colorings of paillettes are used in harmonious combination, In the gown “illustrated these gre thickly gtrewn on a tulle foundation—for Fash- fon abhors a skimplly spahgled design— and the present fad for hortzontal lines in the trimming scheme differentiates these from their predecessorm Ustic effect may be attained this spangled and pailletted tulle 1s mounted upon an underskirt of accor- dion or of suu-plaited tulle, many ruch- inga and frillings appearing about the hem, and the foundation skirt of peau de cygne—taffetas is now considered too stiff for this purpose—ts cut to fit closely at the hips and interlined at the hem to afford the requisite outward sweep which which marks the newer mode. I" order that the softest and most ar- the transparent yoke and slveve cap, this affording a softer and less ‘Opaque effect than chiffon; and in the newer midwinter developments the cor- sage is invariably so finished that {t is fees Ife THE corsage, tulle ts used to vell ‘The pelerines, victorines and all the| worn outside the skirt, not under it as sate hatidten aint i a umatahhh Dace eR eet abaaanaas has prevailed for so long; and the gir- dle, which is rapidly becoming a sine qua non of the styles, is deeply pointed in front, and much shallower at the sides and in the back. This accentuates the length and the roundness of the waist, and permits of the pretty blouse effects in combination with the closer fitting lines which the new fashions dictate and demand, thus overcoming what at one time threatened to be a very trying if not a very unbecoming element in the fashions. trated {s of lace and chiffon, the lace inserted in @ novel dimond design the length of the full sleeves and on the front and back of the blouse. A striking feature ts the extra-long cult edged with a tiny frill of narrow lace. T= beautiful examples of midwinter A CHARMING theatre walst filus- millinery fustrated have not much that is wintry about them. Beavers ure still almost invariably trimmed with long ostrich plumes, But a single hand- some plume is no longer considered suf- ficlent trimming, and a second of a har- monizing tint Is used, HE shape of violet beuver pictured It has a long stuck plume in a Itlac tint passing flatly across the front and curling under the brim, while just meg sete o- eae. AO A on! JANUARY 16, 1904. Al Page of < Fashion < News < by < Mme. < Judice, ) gles Are Now Very Pop- HIouUse As e And Chiffon back of it and following the same lines ja bandeau of white knotted velvet. The {8 another plume of deep amethyst, the | sole two feathers forming the hat's only | creation consists of two white ostrich Plumes which curl from the front back- ward on the left side, OR theatre and opera wear hats of Malines trimmed with plumes are most favored by the That illustrated is of @ novel ure shape, raised frum the hair by HE yearly exodus to the Southern ‘This year the clothes for dressy $500 _ =«. rmGhe Girl 101 Prizes in All....350) First Prize........—. $50 5 Prizes, each-.-.. 70 Prizes, each. 26 Prizes, each.. e Gute men back. he pressed the trigger the third @ Glow on the wrist sent the pietol from his grasp. « mad end heodless, with Sarg of dette, Clermont hurled him- emong moment It nigh cleared space wp the enemy were too many, and by Were out of the win to the confusion and the “conditions. In Prizes for Readers of This New York in Green Shoulder, A bate gashed hini ecross the face. He was stabbed in the beck, the steel providentially striking and slancing along a rib, instead of pleraing the pleural cavity. Beaten down he sank to one knee, strove to rise, and fell almost prostrate. The crowd opened, and a half dozen knife blades were raised as a better view of the victim was thus obtained. Through the confusion an@ turmoll had resounded several heavy blows on the bolted door. None had heard them, but now that an instant of silence fell, they sounded again and a voice trom eit] without called sternly; “Open in the name of the law!" ‘The Anarchists, to many of whom this was no hew summons, paused and with soared turned to Stepan Alexan- drovi crowding toward him as frightened sheep might flock about a shepherd. Ami1 the panit he stood calm, un- moved. “The door will hold for nearly a min- ute,” he said calmly, ‘There ts time to escape by the secret .way. As he spoke he pressed a brick in the closed fire-place. The mantel, grate and hearth swung backward, revealing a shaft from whose top the upper rungs of @ ladder protruded, ‘There was a general rush for the exit, @ rush that not even Alexandrovitch's Voice could stem, 100! ak and dizzy he stood there, himself against the window unnoticed, had scrambled to his| Alexandrovitch saw him, and touch-| “4, 5p ana a- | Ang) Bxeneen. on the Sim ag the latter) tion, closed with him, preventing the |wliyped on a pool of blood and, driv be the doubleyjmpetus, crashed through tho window, uf into a senseless heasy ‘the fe in time. to Shee Natt ssh teach Mia ABS cae tart casa ood iMate er ted gtronger maintrom wi Svensoi ng on Clermont, int from wounds exhau ing the weapon, exerting his vast strength wlolently: £rom-bim imorder: _This Is ... to i OCBEOR cei nip soaiswecietoteiteceetenn veletisir~ srceesem , a 2h ive scope for a finul knife thr ont strove to regain is bal: Where the Double Wedding Occurred. What Is It ? Romanc dificulty, and looked uj ‘athering dusk, to see gee aman Seta i ees hain Baeeran love and tenderness - $506 The diamond n I faced sweetheart of stealing was long converted into read: 1) tha, had to be pre stood Wilton and May | Mary me, m't try to speak,” love you!” he murmurred, and sank into Insensibility. Ci raieolrer: down into his ‘My pame ts Doioi name is familiar toy w ied, * ey ocatined him to I Went to @ convent school as di toom, of course, for some little time. pet wo the days of convalescence sped on | S;\f, Dern for weal! ~ ir's breadth Svenson's furious ; ©) the door of the roon own and the police poured in recovering his a tender bang Pachitl his bi Hu-relved tia: S. | lected from.th: juecte a. wolden wings. For tts devoted and €ver-present nurse was Wdith Kenton. Edith's position in the Clermont household “had undergone a_ radical change since her retirn from Highgate, She was no lenge sia Venere s paid, com » but the acknowledge: Rancee of the son of the house and his mother's jho: guest. As soon as Cecil had recovered con- sciousness on returnin, told his mother of his led and empty jew susploion against Gladys. nt to that you jon her, but learn -e} had, in the exoite- ment incident on Cecil's return, left the Ouse A fortnight later Cecil received the | following letter from her: | pDeey, Ceol: By the time ‘this reaches yon the Atlantic will ie between Us, andsT will | have covered my tracks #0 succasfully that jall the police of two. continents cannot find or recognize me. I do not fly empty-handed | For months everything haa been prepared wes wh ewe The house of an she Was a eblld. Thi she and I took a apd veiled { 18 Whe train early ornina. Be hi ith” your ttle How your friends ‘ 11 that y at chatt 2 Ge ee checriy LORDS Aalto. ¥ ‘Horrifying as were this mnisalve's reve- lations, Its recipient was too happy to allow tore than a passing cloud the sunshine of his Joy. For two days earlier a double wedding and two pretty girls had promised to “love, twor stanch f Clermont and Joe W! the | How to Win a Prize. With each chapter of ‘The Girl in Green’ |In or around New York has been printed, | place—e building or other structure—la The blank spaces given with the photo must be filled with the description. All raphs, and all twelve—pictures and‘ bianks—muat be sent in in the same envelope m | Sddressed to “Girl in Green’ Editor, Evening World, P, O. Box 23, N. Y. City.” ‘All answers must be sent by mail to P. 0, Box 233. The mail will not be col- | is box until noon of Monday, Jan, 1% By an actual photograph of some place The reader is asked to tell what this twetve photo- ‘ky one whose answer is in: Ne . me I5tume, itary at., Ul HE Midwinter S of Coats Have Bar Pléats—Velvet Ribbon and Bias Pieces ~ Trims the Latest Gowns —Pelerines and of Ostrich Feathers Are the Latest for Evening Wear—Tulle and Spane he - ular for Evening Gowns. ~ fripperies are more than bs be and delightful. A pallroomlatriness aie int tnguishes many of the gowns, some Gf” them being in brilliant hues, metehet ~ 7 by hats )as startlingly gay. Wey i i 4 ‘A very long-shouldered effect am am extreme picturesqueness of the slesye model are the salient features of the! bodies of these new gowns, and with the puffed and flowing sleeves and the pele ine shoulder draperies go skirts quaint- ly full and widely flounced or prouly decked with narrow ruching. It te quite evident to the woman who wishes to/be: up to date this spring that she myst have ruching for a finish to the and sleeves of her gowns’ aad! 9s mg can Wrap will be considered complete out. touch of ruching somewhere. NSTMAD of stiff collars, ctects’ see made of the waist material, fagoted or plain, and « fold of eres Ge lisse or ruching added to soften effect. Combined with ehim-, ruching ’ is made into ruffs, which fall ,easty to ; the foot of the gown in cascada. =. re 1,