The evening world. Newspaper, December 12, 1903, Page 5

> “y For iSCIIIS EVE atGeTe PeBaptronm HIS Winter’s Danc- ing Frocks Are to Be Very Bouffant. They Are Trimmed with Many Flounces and Ruchings of the Same Material— The Redin- gote of Taffeta Is Re- vived to Do Service for Carriage or Theatre Wear— Dolman Wraps Are the Latest Creations —Gilt Is All the Rage— Brown, with Orange or Blue and Pearl Gray and Cream, Are the Most Recent Color Combina- tions—Other Interesting Fashion Developments. T picturesque, yet withal feminine, for there has perhaps never been a stronger plea for feminisone than wom- an's present Independence in fashions. Everything 1s done nowadays for femi- mine charm, and in line with this idea are the dressy and fluffy styles shown in all the new models. There are frills @nd flounces, puffs and plipings and pendants and capes and oversleeves and undersleeves, sashes with long ends or short ends and deep crush girdles Boned to the figure which show no sash ends at all. While we are in the full glory of the revivified 1830 modes, some designers have moved the calendar along a bit and have included many ttle hints and fdeas which more properly belong to the eixties; particularly is this noticeable in the materials and trimmings of recep- tion totlets. In the making of these gowns @ great amount of hand work is digplayed, not only in regard to the gar- nitures, but the manipulation of the materials in the running of tucks or #hirring with Incrustations of lace and embroideries. HIE woman of 1904 will be ple HE dancing or evening skint prom- ises to be very bouffant, but this is not yet determined, Several very short full cotillon gowns have recently como from Parts, But as these tend to make the wearer look short and dumpy. It is certain they will not be popular with ll women, ‘These short coilllon skirts {are trimmed with many flounces and ruchings of same material as the gown, reaching above the knees and frequently to the waist aud are almost exact repro- ductions of the family puxtraits of belles of 1850, From Parts also comes a whis- per that ballroom skirts will remain Tong and tight-fitting, and will tend to give a womam height, slenderness and willowness and an absence of all that suggests embonpotnt. This shows very conclusively that skirts will be of two Inds, ‘They will probably not gather the short, full skirt upon the band, as predicted a short while ago, but will ebirr them in many shirrings and puft- ings or tuck thom in Spanish style, run- ning low in e front and rising toward the back, while the skirt is finished with a bouffant effect around the fou, ‘T in all {ts former glory and a very useful garment {t js, Some of the great houses are making it do service as a carriage or theatre wrap, and with the inner vest removed it proves @ dainty gurment for indoor wear, HB reajngote of taffeta is revived 'r] ‘WORY novel wrap seen at the opera ray recently was of the new material called Breitschnany, and closely imitates the silky hatred cream fur of the polar bear. Whether it was a cape, or a@ coat, or a dolman could not be determined by a cursory examination. In the back the garment came almost to Whe hem of the skirt, extending in a straight unbroken line from the neck, ‘Then it rounded up sharply to the front, _ hanging (m Gull cascade folds. Another new material seen on a few of these THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENING, DECEMBER 12, 1903, Black hantilly and Wille ISLC: plain and ivory oloth are combined in elegant but moderately priced cloaks. Heavy cords and guimps form the pen- dalogue buttons, whose swinging ends appear on many wmips of a dressy nature, These dolman cloaks, because of their extreme looseness, are much favored by young matrons. A swans- down fuzziness 1s the first impression of many of the newest scarfs with which beauty envelops her head and throat with these evening cloaks, All who can g0 bareheaded wear these gauze and marwhout scarfs without crushing the costume or disarranging the solffure TURALLY with such fine wraps, gowns for evening wear are corre- spondingly elegant. Muny white costumes are fashioned of clinging cloth or velvet, introducing somewhere in the trimming @ thread of pale blue, coral or orunge. A pale-blue gown may de trimmed with panne or lace in the same shade, but a touch of black and white will be added as well, for ths snappy Frenoh touch ts as much used as ever. One-toned gowns may have white vests and under sleeves, and upon these lacy details blases and ornaments of the cloth are often transferred. One ex- tremely beautiful {mportation is of painted net, against whose grayish- white background appeared the shadows of leaves in autumnal colorings. Inside the slightly cut-out neck of the bodice was a tiny eamp of plain gathered net, which material also formed lange puffed under sleeves. The full, drifting skirt had three deep tucks and was to be worn over a silk petticoat in a singular ‘Mlue. This tlue showed openly In a wide girdle and bodice knots—a shade sublime with the bronze amd sliver reflections. ‘The distinguishing feature of the dress of the woman of 1904 will be the color echeme of her costume. The sombre| shadow tones will form the background upon which are built up all the beautt-| ful color harmonies that complete her dress, Quaint and changeable browns trimmed with orange and blue will only afford a more striking background to! the dash of red which will be seen on many costumes. Shadow blue—that strange blue, almost as deep as ink—| will have bands of cherry velvet, with red coral trimmings on her stock, belt] and hat. M symphony of dress and hat, the former a pale petunia, and the lat- ter of several of the darkest tints, verr- ing from grayish purple thrmugh the fuchsia and old rose shade. ‘At a Wuidort recital Inat week some- body wore a cloth gown vf pala bisque, almost a cream tint, cvinbinaa with ro cloth of a deticate pearl gray. A ye ago the woman wi vure those two in conjunction would hava -ven acemed | stark mad, 188 GDRRY wears a rming Ow that it Is the fashion to w the lightest and most perishaole shades for street and day gowns in the evening. Cloth dresses for sven- Ing are quite criginal and often becom ing when brightened up with gold and silver embroideries and bits of real lace. A leading modiste is using on them a great dea! of Vlond lace applied with sil- Yer, Just as we are beginning to wear the oollariess gowns with ease along comes tha high collar for our day gowns. The new ones come right up under the ear and require the most care- ful cutting, fitting and—booming. Neat- ness is the order of the day in regard to neckwear, and charming are the new nen Prussian high collars with @ dainty embrotdered edge. ‘These are worn wity a muslin cravat and are a chic finish to a morning toilet. A natty little blue from a high collar of orange panne, a turnover cravat of white muslin and an orange knotted crepe de chine tle. A wide beit of blue kid finished the waist. A thrge-cornered bluo beaver hat worn with this jaunty suit had a simple cock- ade of iridescent dlue, green and orange taffeta, in the Directtolre style. Speak- ing of the latter, the Directoire coat has modes, The graceful line given by the lace in the sleeves, the jaunty Little vestlet, which is the addition of this century, all go toward making it a most: charming model. A beauty in peach pink for a yisiting gown is of French) camel's hair cloth or silk zibeline ef- fects, ‘here is a panel at the back with effect continued on the attached skirt, with a Ittle under plait at the sides. The velvet cape collar of an indeserlb- able deep shade of pink is finished with a cream moire silk band and moire rosettes having Chinese gilt buttons tn the centres. The coat fronts do not meet by four inches, showing a vestec of Chinese embroidery in delicate cold on cream moire, Loops of cord anil wilt buttons trim the fronts in groups and on the gleeves, ‘The gauntlet cuffs are of velvet and moire and have double wrist ruffles of margerle lace. The strap belt of the cloth has brass eye lets and buckles# Hard ny of the out a touch of gilt, either in but braid or embroidery, and all have vel- vet in combination, of self tone or con- trasting color. In this gilt treatment of embroidery and braids, two or three shades of gold are often used towether, usually a pale greenish—with ‘burnt and a yellow gold. ‘The blending’ is smart costumes this season are with-]tilly having an orchid des! Bree Ideas Ip lace GoldBreid And tole Skip Evening Gowns for the Christmas Eve Receptions —White Chiffon and Silk Cords for the Debu- tante— Brown Spangles and Cream Colored Net for the Young Matron—Stately Creations of Moleskin, Gold Braid ana bace forthe Dowager —Peach-Hued Sicilienne and Bulgarian Em-j{ broidery Make a Novel Frock—Black Chantilly} in an Orchid Design Over Net Is an Attractive Combination—Many Stunning Holiday Season. HIS week the thoughts of the fash- fonable woman turns to evening gowns, For the Christmas Bve re- ception is drawing near, and it ts her elo! celvi ti ey th sult received a touch of smartness} ai7, to have a new and dazzling cos- tume for the occasion. For a month past dressmakers have been planning noyel and beautiful dresses which will make their first appearance on the night before Christmas. ‘There are simple little dancing fracks of chiffon and crepe de Cline for the) debutante, stateller creations of allk been revived as one of the most popular} 274 lace for the young matron, and gor- geous combinations of fur, satin and cutaway skirts and the soft fluffy frills} £014 thread for the imposing dowager. OR a young girl, the charming gown plotured is of white crepe de Chine and chiffon, showing a multt- tude of what are known as nun's folds on waist and skirt and a novel trimming of thick white silk cord. The waist has a round shirred yoke of crepe de Chine outlined with a knotted scarf of chiffon reaching to the waist line. From it the blouse, made in nun's folds of crepe do Ching, falls over a belt of the thick cord. The skirt, composed of an In- finite number of soft folis, aas a full flounce outlined with the cord, which also circles Une hips and forms a long apron effect in front. The elbow sleoves show large inlet puffs of accordion- plaited chiffon, T HIE recently imported tro tmuted has as a foundation an ex- quisitgly fine piece of black Chan- nm well de- fined on the net, Strappings of black silk Joufsine Pn nun's folds—plis de religieuse, as they term them in F are applied on the ekirt and sleeves at Ix, and there is a yoke in coarse guigure Ince which extends to form a bertha, smart little bowknots of shirred and wired black satin rib- von being appited on the bertha, The very Frenchy, especially when IM }oiiee hag dn odd garniture in the hiv ming any shade of blue. T coming year, and made in lace or in a delicious combination of silk and chiffon it will be worn by the woman of fashion on dressy gowns. Its virtues HE shoulderette will a ver play longer, considered @ necessity all shoulders tell where the arm-hole 1s, or wi the ediot has gone forth that the stun- ningest things to don are dark colors are that ft makes the shoulder seem» giving the slope which !s now} vrolderies ornament the skirt and bod- yoke of black loutsin in broad straps to the hem of . Which extends the y}own, and on these straps the ribbon bowknots are aleo appliqued with tell- prominent part in the styles of thet? grag, AND-MADBE lace 1s used on the seo- ond gown illustrated with novel effect. Bulgarian and Oriental em- ice of peach-colored sicilienne, These having such a droop you can't possiblyfshow tones of green and scarlet, pale oF} blue and goid upon a foundation of ecru | expects to be, A splendd Illustration of} canvas. They are appiiqued to the bod- this is given ina beautiful golden brown ice in strap fashion, the straps point- velvet which Mrs. Paihip Lydig is wear-ling downward from the shoulders and Ing this geason. The sleeves in thelr n-} eens-w-e-eentnevenene-tntntutntutnentntntetntntnt-t—trtrtrtenenerts “AeA Ot ius | Ideas for the ending waist in a line com allie “ tassel. From the another set point! over the fluffy elbow puff of Chiny lace. ‘The irt is of a new fashion, a rip yoke being simulated with the lac neath which the sicillenne Ix cut away jand a backing of chiffon provided. A’ shirred flounoe ts applied at the knee, rounding up prettily In the back, A broad band of lace serves as a heading, and a similar band ie used above the hem. fl quins over dotted cream white net 1s pictured, The spangles are ap- plied in a rose design on witst ant | skirt. ‘The deep eppuletted yoke is simply a lattice of flextble interioven old rlobon braids, Around this is n irregular beretta of brown spangled net which also forms the sleeves, The up- per part of the skirt Is of the chiffon, the spangled net flounce being applied beneath a gurntture of Russinn Iace, very stunning gown of brown se- OR older women three stunning F Christinas {deas, showing an ela ation of lace, gold braid and moleskin, are pictured. One of these shows the new girdle In an exaggerated form. since it extends from just he- h the berthe to well down over the hips round pleces being In this instance there ts a yo! one, of point d’Alencon, the jolned together with the yery fine gold lace which also appeart on the skint. Little handkerchief pleces of the cloth are edged with the gold lace and platted to form a perthe, bands of moleskin forming a heading. On the ekirt a double ban a lace, with diamond-shaped medallions at in- tervals, of these having appliqued centres Alencon lace, appeara above the , which is entirely covered with a @ and of moleskin, this fur also being used to edge the sleeve drapery, which falls over a tight-fitting cuff of Alencon lace and gold lace braid, and a soft frill of white ase falls over the hand in a quaint and pretty fashion. Of course, all of this is arranged over a perfectly fitted princesse lining, and ft takes the art of a master hand to out and fit this so that the dmped and swathed and wrinkled effect of the cloth is in nowise bulky or clumsy, Quite of airy grace and lightness; but this is a style which the buxom bel do well to let severely alone. “Open Season” for Shoplifters. To *he Fditer of The Evening World: This Ix the “open’ season" for shop- lifters. Bearcely a day passes that some one (a member of my own sex usually, I regret to say) does not commit petit | theft in some large store. I suggest two remedies for this: First-—Let goods be protected by a glass case and not jet loose on counters, a temptation to all weak-consclenced women. Seocond—Let storekeapers punish every case of theft by dragging offenders into open court and prosecuting every oase to the limit of the law. They are too lenient, and thieves rely cm such lenfency to dare thefts from which they would shrink ‘were there less peril of public shame. MRS, J, L. WARUM. | ‘To the WA{tor of The Evening World: Concerning your editorial on the views of Magintrate Crane end Dr, Parkhurst Mam, an. einai bn. x Hin Riki AN ay ott ‘LETTE mediator or arbitrator, A few Sunda ago a speaker announced that if any ome was in search of employment he should call at the ¥. M. ©, A, Butid- Ing Immediately after the meeting. Were there certainly would be a change for the better in the breach witch exists in fa very small degree between the dic poor and idle rich of our great motrop- oli, CHARLES CARROLL BROOKS. Exerbitant Gas Bills, the Editer,of The Evening World The gas octopus has again commenced to bleed the public. a rate that is a haniship to many. Bilis cent., been no extra service demanded of the meters by the users thereof. It docs no g004 to protest against this, The only answer to objections le that “You cer- nad 4t possible for such a call to sound from | the pulpits of New York each Sunday} ‘The bills increase ®\ Yen; New Year and th ture is about to convene in regular ses- sion an agitation might result in the passage of meusures looking to reliet m this extortion. Let other viotims write. RBK. Wants to Be Tall To the Editor of The Evening World: Which is the quickest way to become tall? iM There is no sure means of growing tall Plenty of wholesome food, outdoor exer else, nine hours sleep at night and strict avoldance of liquor, tobacco and ali forms of dissipation may increase @ boy's height. Following Chrintm: jin some instances have jumped 20 per} ro the Editor of The Evening World: notwithstanding that there has} Do Christmas and New Year fall in ‘on the attitude of the rich towarl the tainly must have bummed the gas, as A says Rugby Js the same as football, e “ 4 8.4. Foot- the same year? “Rugby” Ve. “Association” ball, To the BAitor of The Evening World: RS, QUERIES AND ANSWERS. ~ Which is right? LOUIS, “Rugoy" football is the sort in vogue among college teuns, It 1# played with an oval pigsiin ball. "Assoctation’’ foot- ball is played with a rbund ball, and the game is governed by a different set of rules. The Former In the English and the Latter the A To the Falter of The Evening World What is the difference between a ratl- way and a ratiroad? H. P., Pininfeld, N's two different xames. in In Correct, To the of The Evening World A enters the house and is asked is there?” A answers: “It is lL" Now, |B says A shoul answer “It is me.” Which t9 correct and way? A. B.C, Trenton, N.'J. “It is I ts correct, because the verd “to be" does not govern the objective. Saturday, Sunday. he Fait ft Brae sales 1873, fall? Also June 6, 18972 S. the contrary. the effect produced is one¢ gone conciuston. tirety are charming, very full at the elbow, the regular 189 fashion, with a perfect arrangement of cream embroid- ered mul! for an undersieeve where the velvet left off, Several rows of ehirring droop over the shoulder line and effec: tively conceal every vestige of a seam which joins the sleeve to the gown One of the eccentricities of this year is to put deep tight cuffs of lingerie ma- terlals inside the volumingus reve of a blouse. a. the deap-pointed belt 18 ease alxo of the Oriental bands. Upon the} rm ig safe to say that sleeves have [full sleeve cap there ure five straps reached a high water mark in the ‘ having a silk tassel, which falls varlety of design and form and the foombination of materials. A common ramark ls that “sleeves loox as if made from anythhig*found in the scrap bag because the gown material ran short." Nearly all the arms are draped with pladtings and festoons of filmy fabrics and loaded with hand-enbroidery, ao- plied lace, scalloped edges, strips of {fur and fancy buttons. Judging ftom ithe majority of sleeves, voluminous ones are in the lead, but there are small ones, almost tight fitting from wrist to shoulder. ‘There Is one distinct- ive feature in all sleeves. ‘The droop near the hand is entirely eliminated Every effort 1s made to push the dra- pery up to the elbow. All cuffs are not high, but all sleeves avoid the wrist droop, and to accom- this the sleeve ts gathered and| shirred up toward the elbow to be snus- a fitting. This is done on cloth Jackets, and the eff. » that of a man’e peg-top Whatever this cuff is, it Is not plain, and on most of them it has edges out- ned with frills of lace, &c. ‘These rut- fles are basted in everything except a number of trousers. tub shirt waist, and even this state- ment must be qualified, for many wom- en put them in these when the fabric ts nice enough. A Delft blue linen blouse to be worn all winter has little double plaiting of atiff lawn, lace edged, bated in after it comes from the laundry. T distinguishing characterintic of be- jog novel. ‘They are really different from any ever seen before, and, marvei- lous to relate, less expensive than one would imagine, The most fashlonable belts just at the moment are made of skin of one kind or another. The ver; wide suede belt crushed around the fig ure, fastened with a big leather buckle in front, is “the one best belt and comes in a variety of colors to match any gown or waist. A spectacular belt is the ono of calfskin with the hair left on. It 1s about four Inches wide and fastens with a round brass buckle. A calfskin stock was covered with the red- HE new stocks and belts possess the |dish brown hair to match and fastened with a small brass buckle similar to the belt. A crushable belt ia of pigskin, dyed in red, green, brown and black. Stocks are departing from their sim- piolty and show the oddest features. Many are partly of fur. Some of slic bawe velvet straps thathook in front. ‘The novelty of the hour is to have hat, belt and stook the same, no matter what the material ‘The gauntlet which {a thrown down t is similar | this season ts in @ most peaceful <ash-| jon, for gauntlet gloves are to be with vs again, Langtry is responsible f this new fad, and she has had made} for her a glove which bids fair to b the dressy Tecepiion Gown: hand-covering of the sea-| A Page < of < Fashion < News---By < Mme, < Judic OVEL Gowns Worn: by Miss Gerry an Mrs, Phil Lydig— |Other Attractive Cos- |tumes Seenat a Waldorf= ‘Astoria Recital Last Week—A Shoulderette of Lace or of Silk and * \Chifton Is Something: |Really New — Latest \Styles in Sleeves—Re~ |newal of the High Stock —New Belts and Gloves - ,—Gauntlets Will Be the’ Rage. : i] son. It is lined with a contrasting color. — |A white glove has a violet or greem ~ jlining, and the turned-down buf does | not in the loast resemble the recent ugly” fashion of t ‘astened and hange) jing an ordinary glove. ‘The old-fasi | toned gold glove button connectea wilt a thin gold chain is again worn, Duty lke all the new-old styles, it is elabo= out of recognition, Ther heck ruching of other days is bastsd im | our collars once more, but {t looks pt hd stiff unless uved us @ finishing tows! \ lace or fancy collar, | rated almost t $10 FOK from a Woman on the Least Em-| barrassing Way for a Girl to Pop the Question During Leap Year Addre OW comes the time when the dom- neering lords of creation must take {deas from their erstwhile meek long, for she will either head you oft) fusal on her part would cost me her, vassals, the ladies. Sweethearts, sisters, wives, and maybe mothers, to teach the men the proper thing to do and say on the most important ooca- sion that ever arrives in their lives, from the onadle to the grave. Only one year out of every four do the Jadies have this opportunity. That they will make the most of It is a fore- ‘The very fine art of be taught both the question will popp' le would} by precept and by example, till the dult men, the bashful and evon the gards, will hay excuse for de- \taying a delicate proposal of matri- \ mony on the ground that they ‘don't know how to do It” ‘While the prize contest continues this column is open to any s¥e eart who has a suggestion offer which will maybe encourage some timid admirer to | nav bit. There is} hardly any teaching so effective as an} object lesson. When a pretty «inl exer- cises her leap year privilege and shows hurry her bashful or dilatory lover how easy amd Jelightfu! an act popping the question may really be made, lovers in genera will pluck up more courage, They may possibly pop the question | more frequently In |B» years that come \beuween the leap years, when that right i ively thelr own, Let them re- reover, Unit tie contest is sculine 4s well as for fem- The letters are al- evn! to come in, The oon- bids fair to prove uniquely inter- are golng . {certainly mean to try tt {man that keeps company with me never | THE BEST WAY TO POP THE QUESTION. EDITED BY MARGARET HUBBARD AYER. THE BEST LETTER|/$10 FOR THE BEST LETTER, $5 from a Man Giving Directions How to Pop the Question Most Con- vincingly eee Letters in This Contest to “Margaret Hubbard Ayer, Evening World, New York City.” state the cage in the fewest words pos- sible, You won't have to talk very promptly or sav “yea” equally quickly HARRY B. J. A Proposal for Dessert. Dear Mise Aye | |B the ladies intend taking advantage of thelr leap year privilege it will| g0 hard with us men—for who Mould se them anything? Now, I'm a great admirer of the domestic t) 90 of woman, and I feel sure that if e pretty | girl, in a pratty dress, were to cook me ‘a good dinner and for dessert ask if 1 wouldn't lke a life-long succession of such dinners In such company she woula be gure to get ‘yes’ for an answer, HENRY MBYER, Hew One Girl Will Propose. Dear Mies Aver | am glad to eee that a contest has been started to find out the best way of popping the question, for [ The young will get to the point unless T lend hm a helping hand, Now I see him often in the morning whtn he goes down town ard he's always <n @ good temper then. So I'm going to walk along with him he thinkw of me, Then [ shall give him a loving look and ask him whether he wouldn't rather think of me as his wife, and I have reason to belleve he won't say ‘'no."” R, 8. A Bashful Man Rejoices. Dear Miss Ayer: The Simplest Way, Dear Miss Ayer: HE best way for a man to pop the | question is the simplest way. Bo pretty sure the lady will have you. HAVE always been a very timid man as far as ladles were concerned, being handicapped by the knowledge of a very unpropossessing exterior. Now, I ave admired a lady for severat and tease him into saying how much | FOR THE BEST LETTER from Man or Women on the Most Delicate Way of Refusing an Offer | of Marriage ;me, but I cannot get up courage enough to ask her to marry me for fear a re friendship, which is what I treasure most in this life. Now, if that young | 9) lady would just say: ; | willing to be THIRTY YEARS the Standard of Purity and Excellence | | |