The evening world. Newspaper, November 7, 1903, Page 5

” . , : P: THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENING, NOVEMBER 7, 1903 * AA Pa Chilton Broadcfoth Is the Very hatest— Trimmings Are ha. - ish—The Shirtwaist's Reign Continues— than Ever 6efore— The Veil’s Important Role This Winter— Band Trimmings of Every Description bargely Used—Novel- tigs in Stocks and Neckties — Recent Fads of the Fashion- ables. first ideas sent -out for fall frocks prove conclusively that lavish trimming, bright colors, feudhes of black and white and soft !matesials will prevail. Skirts are fuller, ‘@teeves larger, shoulders longer and (‘more sloping and belts wider. stated positively of the coming winter. ‘well to say, firet, of almost all themselves admirably to the flowing Unes of the new styles which accounts for its great popu- Barity. stiff, heavy fabric {s simply fe to the present modes of Despite the fact that nowest mater- fals are more attractive and the de- fancy pattern materials. A distinctly new weave of cloth ts termed chiffon broadcloth, and is won- derfully fine and lightwetgnt and holds charming possibilities for dressy cos- tumes. Another new fabric closely resemblea Bedford cord and will be employed almost entirely in street toilet. Eovh velvet and velveteen will have a Pronounced vogue this season in entire, costumes as well as for separate waist: @nd outer garments, Chiffon velvet is another of the latest concelts, Corduroy characterized by a heavy whe rib will be smart for general util- ity dresses and outdoor sports. In gun-metal gray and a rich shade of Hats Are More Beau- tiful and Picturesque ge of the sii velvet, worn on dressy occasions, call for the most gorgeous display of jeweled buttons. Velvet buttons, both large and small, are extensively em- ployed, while those of cut steel, enamel, metal and pearl are used to advantage on the smartest gowns. Band trimmings of every description are the order of the day, and unluckily for the stout woman many of the new skirts show those trimmings applied in horizontal effects, with tucks and folds as a finish to the edge. The possibilities of lace as a decora. tlon are far too great to permit it to lose its hold in favor and each day brings forth novelties that are alluring in their beauty. A decided novelty is the cloth lace, which Js made from cut-out designs of fhe cloth or tiny pieces of cloth woven into lace patterns with sfk or wool threads. All sorte of dangling or ‘‘do- dad" trimming as well as fringes seem to be here to stay, but the great French imodistes do not depend upon the ready made stuffs for their effects. Cloth is cut in fanciful lengths of fringe and chif- fon, lace, paillettes, &c., are used for pendants hung on silk cords and the golden brown, also a tan or dust color, are used in the most modish costumes. There is a wide assortment offered in the English and Scotch tweeds. There @re no more serviceable materials for | “hack about’’ wear, and the only trim- mings emgloyed are rows of raachine stitching. Evening and dinner gowns will be fashicned from the curious old-time ‘Weaves of taffetas and brocades marked with Dolly Varden and Pompadouy pat- terns in pretty colorings on both black and white grounds. Shot moires are also in evidence again, Loulsine and Cyrano silics will not eas- ily lose peestige und will vie with satin, Adberty and peau de solo in popularity. Sleeves. HE sleeve will sound the note of T fashion this winter, for there never has been known such a season when @leeve models showed more diversity, and though certain general lines are im- posed there is infinite varlety of de- tall. The old style sleeve with its immense pouch drooping above a narrow wrist- band has practically disappeared, The fulness has crept up the arm to the el- ‘eoW and a decided swell or balloon effect at this point is imperative. In fact I'm told crinoline plays no Ute part in this ful! puffed idea. Beyond these lines the construction Is left to the fancy of the designer, Frills of lingerie will play a most Prominent part in sleeve decoration. They are quite the most original note in the season's cloth sleeve, and though they bid fair to be overdone, as is ever the case with a mode readily imitated, they are unquestionably charming and give © most feminine and dainty touch to @ dark cloth or velvet gown or coat. They are made of finest lawn or swiss tiny plaited and are put in double, one ‘falling well 7 0 7 Gown al feast’ ty the tat ety am droop to the outer seam, Some of the friils are simply hem- #titohed, but a majonity are edged with eiatknces eee lace or, in some cg %, with lace nearly two inches Silk mo the same usseline and chiffon are used in way, but are not so chic, Grimmings. eplde le of) trimming seems. .Prevalent, for the tendency is cer- tainly to. overtrim, and I am in- dlinéd to think the Present elaboration je a tradesman's revolution directed @galnst the golden age of simplicity of @ few years ago, when a lace collar and exquisite handwork were the only ne eessities for. dress trimmings, Now fringes, lace, buttons, fur passemene Series and hand embroidery run riot over everything. The most wonderful example of this Was recently displayed in an. evening | Wrap’of three-quarters length made of maize-coloved’ satin. Its trimming ‘in- gluded ‘ruffled flutings of salmon and yellgw chiffon.) coarse cream lace run in tinted wools-and finished with nar- row. fringe and here and there motifs of burnt orange embroidery, Bunches: of ‘brown fur tails were dis: tributed at Intervals over the entire garment, and large fancy buttons or clasps fastened the front. Too'tiich stress cannot be lal upén the importanco of buttons as a decorg- live feature for the coming winter, and Yery small plain ones form the only ‘trimming in some smart English tweed gowns, Art pduttons might well be lasseq with jewelry, s0 beautiful and Gladorate are the settings, “There, ts, too, a great iking for oda thd antique designs, ‘The Greatest originality ts sought, Very beautiful ideas of fringe and angling ornaments are shown by the French artists. The beadings have lace medallions and discs of gold or allver threads cleverly introduced, while loz- engea of velvet alternate with arabesque devices in colored beads. The fringes vary in width from four to sixteen inches. Some strands of chenille are uged In connection with silk or beads. Piping is one of the old-time ideas re- vived, and although much of it js in self color, there is a growing tendency toward contrasting colors. do not measure over one-sixteenth of an inch in width and are made usually of tat- feta or velvet. Narrow velvet ribbon is obtaining new favor and many rows trim the new bodices and skirts. Sur trimming, either plain or bands of fur appliqued in (regular outlines of lit, lace or braid are In the ‘fnighest demand. Suits. HERE Is a rumor that severely tall- ored street, frocks will forge to the front once more, though the dressy tion which French dressmakers call ing for the slight, youthful figure. The skirts of the most “dress up” frocks are longer than ever, and, instead of the long pointed trail directly in the centre back, they fall loose and flowing on the sides and touch the ground in front. ‘There has teen a tendenoy for some time to the round “umbrella” skirt, but time alone will tell whether it will be permanently adopted. ‘Tho Jatest.craze 1s for the be-flowered. be-ribboned ‘skint. Apropos of skirts the leading modlstes of the dressmaking world have shown a strong liking for tucks as the only trimming for full skirts of soft ma- terial. They are deep and usually four or five in number. ‘The lowest 1s about six inches In depth and the others are graduated, the top being about three inches wide, ‘These skirts usually fall full from the waist band and all elaboration in trim- ming is reserved for the bodice. The hip yoke !s by no means abandoned, j and is shown in many new models. Separate Waists. N many seasons we have heard the | Prophecy that the separate blousa, was doomed, but our old friend the ehirt walst “‘sticketh closer than a brother," and this year's offerings are jovelier than ever. There i# not much change in the shape, only slightly exaggerated in shoulder widths and sleeve fulpess, and their construction out of the greatest variety of material, principally crepe de chine, ek volle, mull, &c.—in fact, all of the sheer fabrics in dress wear, Lace plays the most prominent part in blousexmaking, as in every other phase ‘of woman's costuming. For hack-about and genera! utility wear the mercerized cotton is the most popular, and made on the strictly tailor design, with only flat tucks and machine stitching and large or very emall but- tons as a decoration. ‘The black and white shirt waists prom- ise to surpass the colored ones. White satin waists, the fronts embroidered heavily in fancy designs of ribbon, vel- a “tailor gown" will be needed for non- formal wear. With the severe tailor a reaction against the plaited walking skirt and unlined long skirt. twenty, and rippling in exaggerated fashion around the feet will have pre- around the bottom, Little 1s said of the coat to accompany in lines and finish, have the conventton- al turn-over: tailor collar, plain sleeve Skirts. Tf short skirt Is more popular than adapted for morning street wear that a skirt Jong enough to be held up One of the most important items in the success of this skirt as well as the neath it, It must be made with sut- ficient flare and ‘‘bouffantry” to give of the skirt, to accord with the fashion’s latest demands, grow, and tho skirt must stand out Well about the feet, and to accomplish gerted in the flounce of tho pettjcoat or drop skirt, giving a faint suggestion’ of The double or triple akirts gain in favor. @ new design of flye-gored shaping that forms ;thirteer, box plaits. Tucks en soft dilks and woollens and fn the latest frock, if prophecy 1s fulfilled, will come ‘The many-gored skirt, as many as cedence and will be lined and stiffened this skirt except that Tt will ve severe and vary in length ¢o sult the wearer. ever, and Indeed it is.so generally is conspicuous, long ekirt is the petticoat worn be- the graceful fulness around the foot The flare at the hem continues to thia effect a narrow feather bone is In- |, the hoopskirt our grandmothers wore. Soft-elinging materials are made up in bayedere are especially adapted to the|* vet and silk. are one of the newest features in watsts, Hats. F such a thing is possible hats are becoming more beautiful and pic- turesque and to be in the highest fashion plumes must sweep ravishingly around the head and drop coquetishly: over the hair, ‘The fashionable woman's wardrobe is incompléte without one or more plum bedecked creations and it Is essential that she possess a rich black velvet or beaver hat in modified Gainsborough shape. The crown is higher in this new Gainsborough and slightly peaked, a de- parture from the summer mode. The brim is wide and rolling decidedly at the left side. ‘The Louis XVI. hat, either in tri- corner shape or bent low jn front, with the brim upturned in the back and trimmed with drooping or upright os- trich plumes, or a bow of black panne or velvet ribbons secured with a fancy buckle {s one of the very newest modes, It {s shown developed in velvet or long napped beaver, the last being an especially Atting accompaniment to the rough surfaced zibelines so popular this Beason, The close fitting carote will be much worn with simple dresses, while the round’ English turban with medium high crown, both in soft felt and yelvet, &c., and trimmed with @ broad velvet bow and buckle or a flat rosette of velvet or satin through which is thrust a fanoy pin or spotted breast or feather pompon, will be smart now with the tatlor gown or long coat, no fe hats of feathers will be popular, the | yeat conceit being of ostrich @ PELE LRT TST IRR TY | | The Dinner Gowns in To-Day’s Pictures. Li hail the dinner gown! fl Nearly every woman has pur- chased her street costume for fall and early winter as well as the heavier outer wraps with which to defy its later severity. The season of dinners is upon us, The society girl has cudgelled her dress- maker's brain for new and startling ef- fects in which to make her ap- pearance at smart functions dur- ing Horse Show week, and the quieter home girl 1s already think- ing of a new frock to gladden ithe eyes of relatives and ériends at the great American festival of Thanksgiving. BINc, velvet chiffon, as well as the innumerable French novelty weaves that make their appearance every sea- son are the chosen fabrics, The new chiffon velvets and velveteens are pro- vided for those who like to produce an effect of quiet but expensive stateliness, while the girl who must always be flufty and “frilly” fashions her dinner froci of the new “doudle” chiffons, a material which wears much better than the old single variety and has a loveller sheen and lustre. T which is No. 1 of the filustrations on this page, is a warm shade of woodland brown, a very fashionable color for evening wear this season. It is made over a peau de cygne of the Same shade. The round shirred yoke of the corsasge has a pendant drapery of chiffon which just reaches to the deep girdle of turnt orange velvet. This vel- vet also appears In ribbon loops and garlands on the corsage. V which {s shown in picture No. 2. It is made of satin-faced cloth of a startling #viphur color upon which bands of shaggy white silk give almost the ef- fect of a furtrimming. 1t is made with HE dinner gown of double chiffon. ERY smart is the reception gown « {drapery of the goods trimmed with fringe passes over the shoulders and comes to a point in the back. The skirt has flat, stitched tucks which are left to flare below the knee, where seven appliqued bands of the shaggy white fringe give a smart finish. S novelty, and the evening gown of the new fabric shown in {ilustra- ton No. 3 is in several shades of cerese with a corded effect. The deoollete dodice is wut well off the shoulders, the low neck being outlined by a strap of shaded chiffon and a jange chiffon rosette, while a slashed bolero effect is produced over a snugly boned girdle, the sleshings being caught together with straps of Jacqueminot velvet fas- tened with rhinestone buttons, The skirt Js platted from waist to hem, with rows of shirring breaking the plaits, - ae HADED velvet ts the season's latest HE fourth model pictured is in white dotted silk batiste, the dots em- brofdered in three shades of brown. The corsage shows the s®aple baby waist and the skirt is snugly fitted at the hips, a deep ounce set in with Mexican drawn work giving the needed flare at the feet. Velvet ribbon rosettes and garlands ornament the waist and the left side of the skirt. In the model they are of baby blue, but any becom- ing shade may be used, BRY simple and chic 4s the fifth V frock of aubergine velling with coarse cluny lace dyed to match and taffeta ruchings a shade darker. 'Thero is a broad, cape-lke yoke coming well down the arm, with appliqued ruch- a pointed vest of velvet, and a cajm ings in Van Dyke and meialiion efforts. The corsage blouses slightly over a narrow silk welt. The skirt ts fitted o the hips with tucks and broad bands of the lace bordered with ruch- ings appear at intervals, Hi huge muff and hand satchel of the feathers to correspond. Long scarfs of Persian or Oriental printed Liberty panne will be greatly used on the popular sailor hat or the generally becoming round flared brim nat. A scarf of white panne satin, distin- guished by a black polka dot, with a cut steel or sliver buckle or a Persian seart with git or gun metal ornament would provide effective decoration for a black #rench felt or beaver of this shape. Veils. HE veil plays an extremely tmpor- T tant role in the winter wutit of the ultra-fashionable woman. Many of the new importations are combinations in black and white and are very chic and becoming. The white ground dotted in black is styled the “magpie mesh" and the all- black dotted the “‘jackdaw mesh." Despite the fact that vells of this de- in vogue these vells will be brought into prominence, because they add a soft drapery to the face, imparting a ating Jauntiness to the wearer. come in all colors and are worn to respond to the color of the gown white, pale blue, violet and browns Chiffon is softest and prettiest, but for service the spool-silw tissue is best The latest crinkle 1s the garland vell introduced with @ white or ground with a dotted chenille bor: lines evenly distanced in the form scallops, ‘The upper part is plaln In the adjustment of this vel) around tho hat on a hoop, it is to fall in soft, graceful lines with the scallops evenly distributed on each side of tho face. The ends are crossed in the tack and brought forward in long, flowing stream- ers under the chin or tied ip a vow under the left ear, Neckwear, T is the little accessories of dress that made ithe amartly-gowned woman a 2or- “black, rin of seription are first choice among women ofgood taste and style, the colored v ‘das taken a new lease on life. wl look distinctly smarter. The dainty little trifles In the way of belts, bags, |the extreme dip in front. It is the > fobs, chains and stocks are an adsolute round French belt that we are coming Sp into gra colored Two narrow leather straps and buckles fasten the front, | | | A simple little frock may’ be worn! The wide crush belt of soft leather in with much dignity and style, provided |‘ colors to correspond to the gown is quite Newest Fall Fashions, by Mme. Judice, All the New Materials Are Attractive, but Plain, Smooth-Faced Broadcloths Will Re- main Popular— Enge lish and Scotch Tweeds in barge As- sortment—New Color Combinations, and Many Novel Ideas in Regard to Costumes and Their Accessories —Skirts Are Fuller, Sleeves barger and More Sloping and Belts Are Wider, Introduce panels In skirts. Crepe de Chine in both black and colors to be modish must have a satin sheen. The new English topcoats arp most attractive. These coats are slightly fitted to the back and fall midway be- tween the hip and the knee, The seams are stitched and the side seams display @ little fulness at the bottom, which is laid in an Inverted plait. Novelties, ACE collars in Cluny and Arablan © patterns are made of wood fibre and are lees expensive and equally pretty. A new fad—chatelaine or wrist bags of © same material as the gown. Chiffon veils in all colors showing self border worked up into Mexican hand-drawn medallions are quite new. Jet ornaments are increasing in popu- larity. Gray-haired women and blondes do well to affect them. One of the newest of the short coats closely resembles the Norfojk jacket and is plaited and belted at the waist, Everything is Jong on the shoulder, and all designs are made toward that end. Large clusters of Chinese primroses, especially the white, with their delicate green fvilegd are charming on white beaver hats, ® Lb ie street costumes are made ly, but absolutely unrelieved rather fani by another coior. Li Advance displays of jowelled fur neck pieces, such as ermine, moleskin, &e., ‘are for early fall wear, tty new fan has sticks of sandal- wood plerced and wrought in design that Jooks like ivory tace, } h stick is sur ounted by a figure of a girl in cu mit of satin and. water-coloreds > When the fan is opened it shows Tpw of these dainty silhouettes standing. close together, and it is: certainly odd. and pretty, checked and plain,’ and will’ be used for entire ‘gowns for waists, skirts, &c. As to Colors, Sone of the new color combinations are: Delicate blue with white Gray with shades of sage green. Steel gray with ecru lace. Mixed gray with black or white. Mixed brown with golden brown. Gray with shades of burnt orange, Light and dark shades of moss green, | Clan plaid with black velvet or silk. Brown with shades of burnt orange: Mixed green with shades of dark green. medallions. Two-toned blve and silver with plain blue. Black with white lace and facings Of baie blue. Royal blue with black lace and steel. ce. shades of violet. Gray with cream lace showing pale pink or blue beneath. White cloth with antique lace and turquoise blue panne velvet. White cloth with ecru lace and pipings of, burnt orange. Pearl gray combined with dark gray Moss green velvet with black velvet, 7 Black with steel gray panne velvet that suitable accessories are added.| the jatest Idea In belts, A large buckle while on the other hand a more pre-/of self-toned leather fastens it in front, tentious gown will be totally lacking the eyelets of Lrass or steel giving a in style owing to the absence of the |novel touch. proper adjurcta to impart the crowning | Open-work belts of braided and woven touch, |galloons are finished severely at the Concerning neckwear it is almost im-| front with harness buckles. possisle to euumerate the various styles| Leather fobs in shades of leather to that aro worn. All of them are espectally | harmonize with the gown and belt are attractive this season, from the plain|exremely smart. Some are mounted in tailor models to the smart little confec- | gun metal or brass. tlons of chiffon, lace and gauze. Fancy| Chatelaine bags are also worn to runs rlot with the demure straight out-/match these belts and fobs. line, for the variety is not so much in| Some New dear. the sha; as in ornament and workman- RD comes from Paris that the smartest women are wearing iarge | ship. “Stole with tab fronts’? would de- scribe almost any one of them, but each black pleture hats with empire scarfr of luck Chantilly lace. differs from the other in finish. Of course ono ts gulded in the wearing of these ‘A new and becoming walking Jacket js called the “Czarina."” It fits the fig- 1 ngements according to the d occasion. pular silk stock for every day I$] 1114 closely, and the skirt below the of black taffeta or peau de Sole.) waist dine {= almost equally tight fitting, ¥ plain In design that peer’ land, except for costly buttons and more are necessary to it, It ds fin 10. icas machine stitching on all the neh knots and emall fancy ed , it is devoid of trimming. A very conspicuous but most effective evening gown ts made entirely of jet fringe. ‘The skirt has a foundation of black silk covered in ‘six rows of deep {ringe arranged to make a point, The bodice shows a deep belt of black satin, but aside from this ts covered by the fri mrad It fs so ver turnovers ished in ttons, The new cesile panae, which is velvet marked with a het metal point, after the style of popular poker work, 1s made ctul scarfs tled with Jewel ged In 2 the ends of the scart £ hing new and original is a stock of colored atin, on» velvet with (sls |/ 20 comms of al hide will te popu: poh Rochon 2A atid het Bic lar for evening, as will also black and in fron h tab are > em white Dressmakers are making an effort to breid or, more correctly 1 buttons, and cut steel buckles and button. Por THIRTY YEARS the Standard of Purity and Excellence RUNRKEL BROTHERS Si ier Flavor and Aroms. MAT ‘ALL GROCERS, tlio is the ermine erayat fastened with a scarf pin just as if it e sill, Sometimes the ends are plain J then again they are finished with ck or white chenille fringe. eravats are also chic of mole- novel Fur finish for Belts. halls make @ pretty and @ cravat Ued this way. or un been this year has the considered nn This season deine N ity tion touch The very latest is a combination of] fur and leather. Black Persian lamb i used for the centro and its border 1s of leather arranged in scallops. It of considered the ‘The fashionable belt no longer shows aA Hidden Name Romance Begins in Monday’ Find the Heroine’s Name and Be Among thz Winners of the SHOOS s Evening World There ts no.end to varieties In velt They are crushed, figured, me ; Delicate violet with white and deeper ieee | ES