The evening world. Newspaper, October 31, 1903, Page 5

fDonegal Tweed in Morning Gowns—A Great Exhibit of Tailor-Made Hats — Some with Steeple Crowns and Others withNoCrowns at All—Quaint Old-Time Silk Fringe on Many Cos> tumes—Chiffon Velvet the Vogue, HE Horse Snow, u™Merwise the gigan- tle fashion show, where the choicest gowns of America and Europe will | e with each other for supremacy, is fepproachinz, and alrendy women | throughout the country have provided | \themselves with a whole wardrobe of \Horse Show frocks. This occasion, still nominally dedi- Jeated to the exploitation of the horse, has 1n Inte years become the turning ‘poimt of winter fashion. Women have come to recognize that what they see lehere is the survival of the fittest in @lothes and millinery, and that even to @nter the battle for supremacy in the frcalm of frocks held annually in the boxes of Madison Square Garden their epparel must be as carefuly scrutinized las the pedigrees and other certificates jor merit required of the horse they cel- jebrate. ln the Morning. For morning wear at the Horse Show the fashionable woman will select a jevercly tailor made gown, instep Jength or just touching the ground. fhe most exclusive models are made of Es tweed, cheviot or the various ‘mannish mixtures, and for a coat they how the three-quarter length garment ‘with a plain coat sleeve. | This costume, of course, is varied Slightly to suit the Individual need of je woman who wears It. A military shoulder cape {s often in- duced and the coat shortened or lengthened according to the height of he wearer. If any trimming {s used lk cords are preferred. Nothing coulg be smarter than this lwkirt and coat costume for morning ear, which {s illustrated. The material New Gowns Worn by th Actresses in “Raffles Gray Voile Morning | fume with Empbrofd Medallions on Americas Beauty Taffeta—A Blag Welvet Dinner Gown Some Gorgeous Even Wraps. : styles, yet not so el that they may be easily eee gowns of the | for every day life, are to be “Raffles,” the new play at the Theatre in which Kyrle Bel at bs lew te We often see on the Now Ye nowadays, costurien #0. slaboneter magnificent that they simply admired from afar, but scarcely as fashion models, Dossible to reproduce them, ‘The ghwns in “Raffles, though furnishing a variety si for almost any soctal function, ape. Practical and such as real people: be apt to use under similar stances. ee. In the first act, which represents (i Scene of a modern country house | Which the guests appear garbed sultel for dinner, Miss Hattie Russell, a8 Melrose, wears a regal’ costume of velvet and thread ince. The Plain, long and full, and the softened with black tnread lace white, ay A Burglar Gown. Miss Clara Blandick, as Conron, wears a beautiful of white sili mulle, emoroidered in go thread, worn over deep pink ebjiffion au taffeta. RB There is s deep collar of ‘white. falling in cape oftect over the The full sleeves are of plaited na belt of gold and silver braid, iss Blandick, in the scene where house ts aroused by burglars, fetching negligee consisting of kcimona sacque nade of alternate of pale blue ribbon ang white rues over a skirt of ruffled white ¢aiteth, Miss Russell, In this sene, aj : & gorgeous brocaded gown Of peat white moire covered with and trimmed with ruchings of fen. S iss Ethel Matthews, as vears in the first act an exquisi of silver gray velour chiffon, a ed skirt and bodice lace stud white chiffon collar. trimmed’ lace, and elbow sleeves of the an ‘origindl touch’ to a Very own Lis Th the second act a nui pret tweed in black and white, with just fleck of pale green through it. The long coat fs the newest model of the f eason. A new touch is given to the ite fox boa by Its white silk cords fund tassels. The hat ts of velvet, with ruches of silk as the trimming. A bind Wornaments the crown. '\Ghe New Hats. ! ‘There will be an interesting exhibit of ftallor-made tats at the morning sea- |mion of the liorse Show. ‘The smartest fore turban shape, with a military look- ing pompen in front, made of drooping }Coque feathe } These hats are made of fancy braids, der tulle and | house gowns, Heavy walking gloves of tan, with large button, are considered newer ussell Appears: in the muhogany shades, worn so | ile, with full alee mp this costume among the very] Another very swagger as weil as|inia in f modes. ‘The picturesque hat is of|serviceable waist is of blue and tan | large bu shading into yellow, and | narrow striped velvet. Rough: » violets short map b ver and velvet. Big n / twise-looking owls’ heads are an ap- roses are used for its trimming. Many white waists will be worn this ingly soft text eae enved taahionablectrimminnan welllan For wear with evening gowns black} winter, also white with narrow stripes /Gats to be worn w lace on the boning end een lk cord# and tassels, and white or all white wraps are most] of blue or black. P ” aN depron y & ict 1], caifon vells, three or four yards in y ibys oy Vid with three or | Hate with stecple crowns willbe worn favored Hor Beauty si Head n ae ), are among the novelties, Particularly attractive eoeta Jend hats fvith no crowns at all, a8 well smartest of the news White coate) | tty toque aot mink fun Grown Odd ‘These veils are gathered on a small] Miss Blandick wears a sti jas a closoaBitting little i890 model sug- Wraps. Quai Uulincr with; ahGwint cts walter cune | is and Ends. ring, is plated over the top of| of, tha palest shade of gr ested the much criticised poke bon- Ge eveni 5 ao of eatin| found the crown and a bunch of white| Belts are growing wider. Soft, duil|the hat. The vell falls in soft folde| ‘The bodice is tue a et, In the afternoon the picture hat SERV EDIE, A WOnt ys SEO, Aas a: violets at the side. black kid laid in folds makes a neat|under the chin and the two ends are hap fos seve ecabren equal to that ist ‘The same {dea {s carried out In an-| belt. crossed in the back, then wound about elie CE erik A te to dad other fur toque made with a brim of| Ribbon girdles are also worn the neck, the ends flying, iwith its deep fashtonable shoulder c8P®| seaisiin, crown of golden brown velvet,| Long, flowing sashes are seen on some| ‘ese are properly automobile vells, is of white broadcloth, trimmed wit with the rose vely —4 are the cloth of an artistic cut-out design, kd outlined with heavy white silk cerd. “ ” To soften the effect of the wrap. a ruch- TWO OF THE PRETTY GOWNS WORN N RAFFLES. sae te ener: a this ing of white accordion plaited chiffon mont attractive: seen iautiee edged with plaited white silk gauze rib- of waite crepe de Chine and bop trims the neck and borders the | plain, fitted to the figure amd front of the coat, as well as acting as emer tis an under filling to the bell-lke sleeve. a, west of the Ince and. chit In the black"and white wrap plotured finishe: y sh o! Sequin spangled net Is effectively posed Se long ends. Tiny white sii over tucked white mousseline de sole, which in turn ts placed over white satin. The wrap is of the cape order and ex», tends to the feet, completely covering the costume, and hangs in full folds from the capuchin hood which exfends across the shoulders, Alternate ruffles of white and black ruched and platted chiffon form an edging all around the wrap and effectively outline the capu- chin hood. Fashion Notes. ———o A Sfeason of Elab-} cration in Little Details of Dress. 1S is a season of elaboration In the little detatls which place the hallmark of fashion on wearing aparel ‘Trimmings of all kinds are largely to the fore. Hand embroidery in Inrge quantities Js seon on most of the new frock: Even laces are embroidered. the denign being stitched In colored silks. Silk fringes of varying widths are the most fashionable trimmings observed | on the new Imported gowns. Deep fr re is used with good effect around 4 s-Hke collars, which are} a popula of the season. Sometimes the fringe fs ured simply as a cap over the top of the sleeve. ark blue costumes with trimming: of black peau do sole and black sil! fring» are among the neatest of the imported walking sults. Browns of all shades continue tn the ble and ght in welght, as its lead for winter costumes, though purple pee suggests, will be most favored, {!0n& stole ends, Is high tn favor with} be worn at the Horse Show with cloth js 4 relening fanoy of the moment, th the ever-graceful ostrich plume All prevail and in colors brown, gun ‘metal and purple wiil lead all others. | Phe fashionable hat shown In the il- ustration is of dark forown velyet ‘trimmed with lace dyed a deep ecru. he crown is rather high and is wound th folds of stitched brown satin ught ¢o the hat with three big brown vet buttons. The ostrich plume ich gives the hat its cachet, is Half te and half brown. aaint Modes. During the afternoon and evening the lorse Show will emphasize the quaint ode of dress. It will make plain to the woman who goes to look on the follow- | season. | Miss Lucy Milner, as Ledy |ingenue of the piece, jwhite gown, with short full |larless bodice and full elbow Sasa with long flowing ends pretty and girlish costume. So Gorgeous, Miss \Btindick’s fourth-act an evening gown of white | with opalescent spangle: nd white liberty satin, A full ont ~ chiffon edges the hem of the aml the bodice Is elaborately trimm@d it pearl embroidery and fringe, alee v4 ure of the accordion : flowing loosely to the eldo1 ae ee. vet. gowns with drooping joulders bear the straight-from-Paris ark. ‘That sleeves are more fanciful than er, and that even the cloth sleeve is ished with a quaint drooping lace frill, That fur ts extremely fashionable, and pecially fur in combination, ‘That muffs are bigger and boas flatter. Dhat moleskin qccupies the place of nor which squirrel held last year. That the wide, round belt is coming in, That trimmings are everywhere—gor- us, artistic, wonderful trimmings. ‘The Horse Show will reveal many cos- 3 trimmed with old-time qual woking silk fringes, also gowns lavish- ly hand embrotdered. In the trimming hibit: there will be bands of fish net nd scrim, exquisitely hand embrofder- , flowers of chiffon and silk, and es, dyed, embroidered and jewel tudded. ‘There will be glittering pangies in many changing colors and uttons and silk cords and tassels in rofusion. Smooth surfaced cloth wes having a French taflor-made look will be worn in the afternoon, as yell as the more elaborate ,velvet cos- umes, In gowns of this soft the sleeve iM full below the elbow and Is finished sfowith @ velvet cuff and a drooping frill of hoe of of sheer hand-embroldered tinen, he skirts show the upper part made ith flay stitched plaits opening just low tha knees to enable the bottom to fn properly. Trying with these smooth An effective evening cloak , this costume is) of whit i trimmed with shirred waite chiNp® samo nels of sill embroidery, tassels further trim AL ; iss Matthews's cost is of soft black Mberty is gathered around in front over a Ince. The upper the e: For Thirty Years the Standard of and Excellence RUNKEL BROTHERS abrics for popularity will be gowns of hagay sibeline, Chiffon Velwet. Fivor woth afternoon and’ evening wear yr vening Gown: . Sd ea ibs fthe new chiffon velvet, soft, pliable, non- a + hand the 1908 society girl. gowns both in the morning and afte . : eee ee eae a eentde P| Tuese tur plerines ehow the tong stoi: | noon. | Shirt Waists. | if show a modified 1890 skirt full gng| ends (reaching: straight to the hem o | ‘The tur cravats are won in many! Shirt walsts are more elaborate than | ‘ maton. lengthen Others, wilh tind | the gown. ‘They are very attractive iy | ways, but the smartest flo Ix a four-in- in former years. | : ; ‘ > OF Ve cle Sarat a roduce | white astralchan and moleskin, and are) hand, and often has a jewelled stick- A popular material for winter shirt , ; aeChIne And Irts/> | wt peak tn the back, bot ane skied @iso made up in velvet and fur, joln thgus: through it. Some are of mole-| waists {9 serony anaes witch manne 4 Ge Were Sy | : ‘4 1 ekin, with the ends finished with long excellently. French flannel is aleo used, 3 2 | ily at the sides av well as the tack, (1850 Pelerine, | gray. chenille. fringe and. others are and, as ts-well known, it cleans nicely, oe ; : ees Tat eae { , not are to be ok any occasion on vélvet gown is incomplete with- the accompantmént of costly fur bow ‘Relerine. ‘ The Horse Show girl will some time) of mink with insets of ermine and hay- put the Saxony can be treated to the during the Horse Show week appear in} ing ermine tails as a finish, weekly tub with the same impunity as 4 an 18% pelerine $f velvet, fur and Iace,| Fro» evnniae wear the model MNuerat-| the cotton waists of summer, The fur boas are all very flat and very | with @ dig, tluffy muff to match. She! oq which combines the newest fashions A silk and satin finished flannel is ‘Those most fashionably correct | Will woar a wrap of this sort with @ vel-| o¢ ‘tne hour. in the new material culled; also seen in the shops, ‘Thin haa quite ‘of one fur with Insets of some oon. | Vet gown having the velvet of the. pele-| Clair de Lune, wislah mych resembles) the appearance of a silk material, 2 Lf Septaets ond crmine Js EO ee eee eee are cttan ein, on | ® mum steel Te 13. taw! In’ color and! Beautiful tallof-Anished waists, iined nations, elaborately embroidered ir ian sllk ith soft silk, are of eilk velvet, eithe: ~ : i hite fox boas, broad over the shoul.| these pelerines falling over a deeper! goiq yurends, ‘Tre full skier. Uy aietel sia or Ggured. Gown Gs DVeEr Gray Vor/e ‘Gnd held with silk cords and tassel |:ftlll of heavy lace, In striking contrast! with its drooping fulrces below the el- A sttiking shirt waist seen in one of Worn by Clara BlandicR @r0 also good style; while the 190} '0 these elaborate fur wanpa ee the dew and the charming friiz2-itlmmedmtho Broadway shops is of poppy_red ¢ pg litie fur cravete whlOW will ahoulder drapery, areal) iaaturea whied.velyet with white allie pollen dote-* aid or windy days. Mist Anna Held first introduced thts | style of veil in New York, appearing | on not long ago, in her dig, red | | autombbile with a pale pink chiffon veil iE ued most chamningly about al piquant face. —————— Sunday World Wants, Work Monday Morning Wonders. LMS je se 3 doit 8