The evening world. Newspaper, October 17, 1903, Page 5

English Vesting the decoration of evening frocks. fil-ur bat 1s more popular than ever, isting of hat, stole and muff are among the novelties offered and sets cc by fasbionoble furriers. The Season’s Furs. Moleskin, ermine, @vet and chinchilla nlonable One of the royal ermine wraps a very wealthy woman could to possess {s illustrated. Thou- little ermine sins were required 49 fashion this exquisite gar- hh muff en suite. ‘The style re are the furs most favored by f ont Ww ane somewhat of the old , al loose large, open and flowing at the which, I he senatne waite 1 pink rb. wn of er: snirred and plaited white mousseline de Pale pink velvet roses are posed the dee> bandeau, which lifts the ~ off the face, and a long ostrich plume is passed flat on the crown and Is over the brim on the hair behind, yfo Trimmings. pink and gray brocade. Season's novelties. Whit )Street Costumes. Royal Wraps Which Only Wealthy Women Can Afford — Coats Are ofthe Old Dolman Type—Perforated Em. broidery on Street Costumes — Imported the New Shirt Waists HERE is every indication that it is to be a fur winter. ¥or not only are show windows and cases resplendent with the coats and wraps of rich skins which only the wealthy woman can afford, but for women who eannot purchase entire garments of fun there are broad bands with which the reception or carrriage gown will trimmed, and narrow strips of ermine » and moleskin which will be used‘ for h this coat 1s cut on tho} yle, ‘The sleeve is quite oar, 3 fashioned from berlan fox, The cont Feachos to the ankle and {s fully t a nalf yards around thé hem, or the hem would be if fur ‘garments sifoned with them, ‘Tho fronts are single-breasted and fasten invisibly. whole garment Js lined with lightly tin, and there are two sets 41 the ilning on each side of the The accompanying hat has the ine, with the brim of A more useful coat is of baby lamb in exquisite moire markings and ohin- chilla, The style 4s on the loose box order, doublg breasted, ‘hanging in full folds from The shoulders, The sleeve shas a deep scalloped cap beneath which @ very full puff {s caught into a smart cuff of the chinchilla. An unusually deep cape of the gray fur falls over the eifpulders and has rounded points bota back and front. The Uning is of pastel Fur bands are used on the more elab- prate street gowns. ‘These are about Mhree indhes wide. Biack broadtall with & central floral design, hand-embrold- ‘ered in bright colored silks, is one of the tur, with similar embroidery. in pitik, green and gold, 1s also used for rimming carriage wraps and theatre ‘wraps. A fur novelty seen on children's coats is the use of the fashtonatile mole- jekin for the cuffs and collar of the white fox coats worn by little tots, ‘The walking costume illustrated is of, \wooltex tweed in a heather mixture, ‘The coat is tight fitting, setting close to the figure, and the front has the re- quired stralght-front line. The fastening single breasted, with self buttons, and the collar and cuffs are in seal brown fvelvet. The skirt is Inid in deep side plaits, the tweed-covered buttons at- toning a smart finish. Of course, it clears the ground all around and ts simply finished with a hem and a vel- vateen bindjng to protect the edge. A novelty in street costumes ‘x the use of perforated embroidery for ber- thas and cuffs, A costume showing this trimming was of plum colored broad- cloth with a bertha of the cloth having hand embrotdered perforated holes in a lace design, ‘The military sults, show Inserted sleces In collars and cuffs of brillant cloth of gold. - New Shirt Waists. ‘The first shirt waist illustrated this week iy built’ of two shades, in pastel [blue and fs seen in this smart shirt waist of imported English vesting; the lighter in @ ciel shade and the darker in a deep Dresden blue. The back ‘s fawhioned with a pointed yoke into which the fronts are plaited at the deep shoulder seam. A broad box plait decorates the*tfront, and smoke pearl buttons make an effective fastening. The sleeves are of medium fullness with @ puff above the’ wrist, gathered into straight band cuff, which is fastened with small smoked pearl buttons, matching those in the front. The stock 43 pointed and has a pointed tab on which the large buttons are Ilkewise placed. Imported English vesting is again seen in the Danzig sbirt waist, The basket weave is well expressed in two shades of pink, a paler shade being interwoven with @ bright #hrimp tint. The yoke! at Tre nd Chirre bila es “THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 17, 1903. A Fur Winter Coming with Moleskin, Ermine, Civet and Chinchilla All the Rage. — aOy. |'s In the approved cape pattern with | stole ends, which, however, in this in- | stance are stitched down flat. A nar- tow piping of black makes a very Piquant effect all around this stole cape and appears also on the clerical stock collar and the gauntlet cuff. French knots also in black are effectively worked above the piping and the cres- cents worked én white linen floss are outlined with the black and have French knots lkewise, .The sleeves are full and baggy, plaits at the upper portion ex- panding into a pug above the cuff, which is of a rounded gauntlet pattern. The fastening, ts effected inyisibly down the front: by. means of buttons and a fly Flannel Waists. Imported flannels for waists show elaborate borders of embroidery such as are used on babies’ underwear and flan- nel petticoats. The embroidery 1s dono in white, pale blue or coral and Is used to ornament the front and for the cuffs and turn-over collar. Other waists In pm,’ blue ‘and tan have borders of solid colors which are arranged in tucks in the front. Pale pink flannel shows deep pink borders, pale Ddlue strips of deep navy and so on, the general tendency being to cun- trast two differing shades of the same eolor, | Afternoon Gowns. For afternoon wear many new and beautiful novelties have made their ap- wit leeves are lei accustomed ti be! Jaci skirt has a narrow Paquin haircloth ™m yards the lower edge. To tions of color, al Hm es ot and came originally (alls, N.Y. prize of $10 she sald: fwhat'an ideal husband should be. ‘The question, “Why Women Marry the SWron ?"" was best answered by Misa; Magulze, of No. 406 West ‘Twenty-third street, The winner of the wecond prize of $10 19 @ young: actress Eapd huntaen Who the Lucky Ones Are. VERY letter recetved in this compe- titlon—and there were many thou- sands of them—has been attentively Fead and considered. To the best of my ability I Have selected the following \prize-winners: \ ‘The author of the prize letter describ- (ing the iGen! husband is Mrs. F. V. Detwiler, of No. 3804 Twelfth avenu Brooklyn. Mrs. Detwiler Is the wife of @ contractor. She {is thirty years old from Highland She is the mother of two \@hildven, and when The Evening World weporter told her that she had won the prize," eaid Miss Maguire, ‘That letter Was my first lite: Hever written anything, as all my am- Ditions are theatrical. But I had some ideas'on the subject of the conte: took # long chance and sent them In, Wihoughby avenue, Brooklyn. .!s the author of the third prize-winning letter. She took for her text the question. “Why Do Women Condone the Fauss in Men They Condemn in Their Own Sex?" The author is originally from Cedarville, N. J. “T never expected to win. No one of tmy family till they saw my letter print- ‘ed in the paper knew that I had entered the contest. We read all the letters every day and it was very interesting to get-@o many other women’s views on ehe sald, “because I thought there ‘would be few women who would answer it, as they would prefer to write on the ideal husband. 1 am glad to win the prise.” HARRIET HUBBARD AYER. ‘Three Prize Letters About Husbands « w& 2 2 2 The Ideal Liege Lord Described, with Others. ent t in his dramatization of| ‘Pudd'nhead Wilson.” am awfully pleased to have won the ry’ venture. I had 0 1 ‘Miss Milile L. Stanton, of No, 220 “I selected that question to answer,” $10 Prize Letter. The Ideal Husband. ‘Dear Mrs. Ayer: D GB ideai husband 1a to my mind, the ideal man—a true f: Wis chosen profession. @he is a relative of) kind-hearted, considerate companion and The Prize INNET Ss | ino inte Frank Mayo and took a proml; father, whose step !s music in the ears of those he loves, and whose face radi- ates, and volce modulates when he crosses his ‘threshold? whose gesence Is ever welcome at the hearth ufter the duties of a busy day. He 1s, of course, not a saint, but three qualities are. the nucleus of an ideal husband—sobriety, love of work and consideration for ethers. Love. begets love; Indifference degets indifference, and selfishness be- gets selfishness, Mrs, F. V. DETWILER, $10 Prize Letter. The Wrong Husband. Dear Mrs: Ayer: E ninety-nine cases out of a hundred @) woman marries the wrong man as the result of circumstances. She {a brought wp to think marriage is the one’aim In life, Being at home for the great part, she sees little of the world. A man comes into the circle of her acquaintance who is attractive and makes himself agreeable in many ways, She has not had sufficient experience to compare him with others, and thinks he {is the one man for her, He bad th advantage over her in being able to go ‘and choose, while she must remain at home and wait until a sultor comes to woo her, or else lf ‘considered bold. Very few women Ike the idea of being called old maids. So when he proposes she accepts and Is glad to get any hus- band. aes 6 $10 Prize Letter. The Speckled Husband. Dear Mrs. Ayer: HE following are my two reagons T why women condone the faults in men which they condema in thelr own sex: First, women take pride in reforming men; second, they shrink from demanding more of men than does the world at large. A man often touches the secret spring to a woman's heart by confessing his faults and tell- Ing her that she is his only salvation. Whether the man is sincere or not, his confession 1s an appeal to her vanit and she {s willing to overlook and for- give his past in the hope of making him a better man, Again, every w man has an {dea all her own that she should expect as much of a man as he expects of hei rigid. She dare not stand alone, Such a barrier would separate her from the other sex, for there are fow strictly A Koy! Arap In Ermine pearance this week. The charming after- noon gown filustrated 1s of pastel pink Shantung crepe, 1s elaborated with cable cordings of white mousseline de solo and insertions of real Cluny lace in an ecru shade. The yoke is fashioned of strips of the crepe fagotted together sunbursts worked in black chenille, affording a very piquant contrast, Tho full than we have been the puff at the elbow rather dcant, ‘The skirt yoke Is fashioned similarly to that of the cor-+ gage, and insertions of the mousseline | cording are used alternately with the; Two narrow circular ruMes are headed with tucks and the empiecemerts of lace drop over the ru es. The drop terlining to support the extra fullness of the skirt, which measures full seven ar with this gown a beautifit! matinee set, consisting of muff and stole cap of marabou feathers was shown. Tt was dyed pink, blending into pure white by a series of artistic grada- the hips across the back, and reaching to his shoetops, is au tne latest design in boys’ ove Tweed mixtures, in dark br or blue are most serviceat Carto pattern, or a hal long coat are best £ Worn with large lace collar and cufts, green, tn velvet, corduroy or 2 wil) be very metal but up considerably Changing Jacket to Coat. Dear Mme, Judice: Kars advise me what to do wi Home Dressmaking. | By Mme. Judice. Boy’s Overcoat Dear Mme, Judice: OW could I make my boy's overcoat? { He is seven years old. What kind of material shall I use? Also one for my girl, who Is four, Mrs, BMA. A loose-back ulster, talf-belted f a stonm colli uty, Dy gray tight box-front, a small girl pretty shade of brown, blue o- pretty. Large ory ons on the front will dress a red jacket and skirt. The s! 4s too short for me. The jacket ts Boclety 1s not go|of Eton style, with black yelvet collar and cuffs and belt, Could I make it Into a long coat to wear for school, with a red mixed skirt? The skirt in virtuous nen, W. L. & seven-gored and verry narrow. It ls of} awfully plain in the back. Is there Embroidered Danzs g Shirt wiatist- A! withal ene shall be clothed—Solomon-4e at ae j season to invent @ dlack silk stocking | plue. ernaan Of Shantung Crepe. heavy flannel do with {t?] anything vou could suggest that would Use the old red skirt to make a skirt] inc and you will have newest models in ¢ Cut is off at th A Monte h 1s only 40 inches and Would tatfeta rlate on bottom? whose skirt len am thirty-two yea My sister Is twen’ § geet 7 inches ‘2 years and ct except a fi A Plain Skict. even a conventional lie, You know can't bear Aunt Becky, and yet she cume the other day. you Dear Madame Judice: not be changed for you shortening ‘and plaiting — ee The kong Coat fg” Doomed—Eton Jacks — ets Coming in Again —A New Idea in Sleeves Introduced by a Prima Donna—The™ Toque Is Fushionable —Monograms on Sto:kings—Fine lime ported Gowns. Flora MeFitmsey has been out in full force during the past week—in thousanés of her have pi Broadway. Tais is not really the Inst | chance for her to get her winter elothés, but the weather has been fine, and @o |milady has turned her thoughts exele jfively to the serious question of wheres |the contrary, notwithstanding. artling news to the ualtiated te the ” fat that the death knell has been rung on the long or three-quarter length coat, Tals is the, more surprising because {the shops are full of trig Little walking j#tits with the skirts just clearing the. j floor all around and the coats ranging in length from the hips to the knees, Undoubtedly this style will be worn an@ all wintes, for those who have ule ly Invested in winter suits are not |llkely to lay them aside, and the shope keepers will, of course, keep whatever there {s a demand for, so, take heart of ” Brace, all ye wao have long coats , \” 'Etons Again. nn From two or three extremely bigS aus porities, however, come the tidings that no more handsome costumes are 10 de made fn this fashion, though the, custom-made twenty-five and “a dollar sults will cominue in ‘The garment which im to replace ihe long coat {s—oh, revolving wheel. of. ‘fashion—the old Eton Jacket, rejuvene lated to suit 1904. $ | A word to the wise ts sufficient, 6. |put all your material in nine-gored@ | skirts and save on your coal The prettiest of the three-quarter jlength coats—if this style you must) {rs have—is made in a series of either box) or side plaits. The sleeves are full be= low the elbow, ending In a stitched cute | of taffeta, and the neck {s either cut” round and bordered with the taffeta or | else—and this is a Jater fashion— |finished with two or three overlapping cape collars, extending to the iders. The garment Is made tight-fitting or with the skirts of the coat stitehed) — on to a beit, while the front is gat! |at the waist in a blouse effect, | All the new imported gowns trimmed about the shoulders with deep; |eilk fringe or ruffles, giving the eapel leftect, which is one of the season’ novelties. New Sleeves. | A new idga in sleeves was Introduced | by Mme, Fritz! Scheff, the prima dong | the other day In a beautyul imported | | walst which she was wearing the day of her arriva!. The material was a sole silk of red and blue in Egyptian de» signs. The sleeves were extremely fulh ‘below the elbow, ending In a deep tight= Alting cuff extending well down over the hand and held th place by being at~ tached to an embroidered silk ring worn on the little fin Evening gowns are particularly fetch= ing this season, Almost without? ex= cegtion they have loose flowing gleeves to the elbow, while the necks of the frocks, so far exhibited, are cut rather higher than last winter, Three deep graduated flounces, edged -with lace, |ere seen on many of the newest skirts of thin goods. A great dea] of materigs goes Into these skirts, as, although fit ng closely about the hips, they. out below the knees in numerous gores, lying on the floor all around the feek umbrella fashion, Gowns and Hats, An imported gown of od Cestem shown in‘one of the shops consists al~ | most entirely of velvet fringe of ® \ cafe au lalt color. The skirt is made of three deep founces of the fringe over a foot rHe on the under skirt of white net edged with two bands of vel= vet. The bod.ce Is also made of the ~ inge. The toque is the fashionable hat of the hour for the street. For evening wear a large picture bat with bigh cavalier crown 8 worn. This is usually j:clmmed with long plumes. _ ae Toques are made of rough felt, cloth, & velvet and fur, and are shaped with a! point In front. Moleskin combined with |some contrasting material Is a novel conceit seen in many of the new hats. ‘The approach of the intercollegiate football season {s already observed’ in sev | novelties seen in the shops. One 2 oddest of these features is found in the hoslery department. Stockings of Yale blue, of Princeton orange and black, of Harvard crimson and of Cor | nell purple have been seen other years, | but it remained for some genius of this of extremely fine texture with a lange © embroidered on the In: in Colum- bla blue colors flanked above and below with tiny footballs, also embroidered ta. Monogram Hose. Embroidery is much used on all fancy stockings, «he monogram of the wearer 1 being worked on tho instep. Practical stockings, which will come mend themselves to those individuals who obdject to the feeling of ailk, are of plain black and lisle feet. Dut the embroidery which has crept to feet leaves the hands quite deserted, the plainest of stitohing being elone pet= missible on fashionable gloves. Washs able pique gloves in white gray, blagle, anit woot shades are much worn, ‘These y fol with two ol Breet hough some. women for street. boys’ gloves with ote button. ———_—— THE DIFFERENG “Agatha,’ said her mother, lke to hear a daughter of ming back into a ®Z-inch: belt, bands are quite pretty, but I preter th untrimmed material whem it in an odd pkirt, Taffeta silk that band off an measuring 38 than the former band. d put a band on tt inches more The skirt looks “Auntie, how glad lem te 3 That wasn't, & ey ewered Agatha. “That sation. hlcago, : Berpies! - 0