The evening world. Newspaper, February 26, 1900, Page 5

LESSONS IN HOW TO CUT, FIT AND MAKE GARMENTS. LLE. JARE, 347 Fifth avenue, | Sashionable dressmaker and in-' structor of private classes a Gresemaking and designing, gites these| lessons in prattical dressmaking. She will tell ina simple way that al! ginners can understand, how to neasure and cut properly, make shirt waists, wrape | - pers, tight-fitting waists, shirts and jack-| ots, bes The frst lesson, published today, tells how to seewr: correct measurements and how tocut by them. The method used is Pratt's English Merchant Tailor System. The diagrams and measurements are re~ produced by permission. OPO 440-94 ste FIST ULES. ¢ ; 1. Be ace ate in 2 2. Make paper mode! of the garment Grot. 3. Baste ecaref How te Measure and Cut. HE two most important things in dressmaking are the fit of the garment and the neatness of the work: No matter how inexpensive the ma- 1. BUST MMASURE. terial and how simple the style, it the - Mines of the figure are faithfully fol- towed and the finish of the work per- fect in its minutest detal! the garment will have that indescribable air that is supposed to be the stamp of the fash- fonable dresemaker. The French call it “chic,” and that word expresses it. Tt must be remembered that dres- making {s an art. There must be no slack work done, To fit the human fig- ure and make it a thing of beauty re quires infinite care and patience. There may be ten people of your ec- quaintance with a M-inch bust, and yet no two of them have the same figure. For that reason !t is impossible to go by patterns, even in home dressmaking, if you wish to secure satisfactory re- sults, Bach line of the individual figure must be measure], Every good point must be emphasized, every bad point | —— Carry the tape line under the arm and over the shoulder a taking a snue (measure ‘Third is the under-arm measure, se- cured by putting the line close under the |arm and drawing it to the waist. To wet the depth of the arm's eye, plitee the middie of your tape line on the neck. letting the ends drop in front. ARM'S RYE MEASURE. Pass your hand under each arm, take hold of the tape Mne and bring tt close @rosses the centre back seam, place @ foo Measure from the collarbone to t pin—€ inches is this measure—which ie called depth S, arm's eye. Then measure from pin to bottom, of waist in back. which |s 9 inches, jd the back walst. ‘The next is the cheat measure, and ts taken arm J jose from arm to arm where the ing the shoulder. ck from arm to arm cross shoulder-blade, ‘0 met height of dart plice tape on gollar-bone at back of neck and measure to where top of dart should come Measure around the hips Care must be taken to get these moas- ieeents exact. Never try to remember em. Write each one down at once, Even if vou use a pattern, before cutting by {t compare it with your measurements, A perfectly fitting gown '* one th lal is to each line of t comfort and ould be attained. Of course, after securing the correct ql _ DEPTH OF ARM'S RYE. eoncealed. measurements the draughting of the A Gress form is a necessity to the pattern is Be i, : woman who makes r Tt ime and practice to learn to she wishes to gen ean bestol wre f but the result is worth the ‘The Gret measure to be taken ig the “Baer le cheap, so Keep tring.» dust. For this the tape line is drawn| The groat thing to avoided ts be around the largest part of the bust and| curn° toe sew ‘with fnfinitc. neatness: ever the shoulder biades. I! must be | Never mn aS point of the gown. held tight t every deta: close, but not os f your pattern ‘The second is the arm's eye measure. } will’ never be n SAPHO A IES. Few pre at of Book in Circulating Libraries. “Bapho" is tabooed. Of the hundreds of libraries in New York City, not more than six carry on their shelves for cir- culation the translation of Daudet's work, from which Nethersole’s play was written, Hundreds of women, girs and boys have learned this since public decency has een aroused against the play at Wallack’ How have they found {t out? They have asked for the book and have been teld it could not be seen. The librarians say that hundreds have entered the reading rooms and asked what works by “that Frenchman Davdet” were to be had there, When *Bapho” was not mentioned they hurried away wiih a shamed face Young women and boys, who never Before knew of the existence of the novel, since the production of Nether. sole’s play became curious and visited | » the lbraries to see what the “bad book In not one of the free cibraries did they Sa “Bapho.” At the Astor they found ‘ew vuly in the French as Daudet wrote ft. “This was useless to them. At the Harlem, Mercantiie, Lenox and vene or two others the translation was) found, and as a result several of the! Volumes have been sent ty be rebound] ‘6 hide. waiting to talk with the Lib the Astor ary an Even! reporter saw Wo cirls not oy old who were conversing They Awe. only hay Mr. Bierreguard, isked about the demand for the have no or Daudet that the braries to see it, Street peddlers are hawking It about at five cents a copy, At the Aguilar Library on Bast Broad. way the book is tabooed, as it Is also at all the branches of the New York Froe Circulating, At the Second ave- nue branch of the latter the reporter was told that in one day there were about fiftoen calls for the work, Of) these fourteen were young women. Lovrariat Curtis, of the ee’ the work and we would not “place it on our shelt if we . We have other works $e Daves: hough. There oe, Set of cal is for, the Norte “ince t attack on the Other it Mbraries ‘visited at which many recent calls for the work have been made are the Broome Street Free Cir- calating, the Maimonides and 81. Aloy- sus. WILL PLAY SAPAG 10-NIGHT | Mise Netherscle fuiiciently Reeev- ered from Her Indispusition to Play Her Netorions Part. Orga Nothersole will perform her part in the production of “fapho” to-night, she says, her illness being but a alight xhawation from which she had recovered at noon to-day. too ill” to be seen and when an Kyentng World at he Hoffman House wn word that all in- de to her in writing. to-night,” was MARION MANOLA'S ALtuonY Court ANews Her $25 a Week in Her Salt of Diverce Agaiast Jack Wason. Marion Manola, the actress, know private life ay Mrs, Jack Mason, alowed alimony {1 the Supreme Court to-day cation af ber counsel, A. H, alterations sary, But a make up first sign she inten t that perfect, rt on js practice is what. wil fect work. Don't imagine t trouble. It is the only ri tearn dressmaking. ners should always work on smooth, plain good the elasticity of the mat al down cutting A Stretch woollens must hit, flowers must go y= be made Up the ra: re will be a perceptible the shading. All woollen be sponged and refinished. After cutth out your ece of lint ing plece of material and they. exactly correspond. not be even the slightest any point. These things a to get right in the beginni & garment |« stitched up It hard to remedy and always of unnecessary trouble, I each remember that cheap linings will make poorly Att Before beginning to new « ready, Have your need all suitable to the matertal garments. a blunt needle, as it will make disfigur- Ing holes iir the goods. Adapt your teh to the material, Thick stuffs need a longer stitch than thin ones, Cottons and inens should be sew with cotton thread; velvet, silk and similar mate rials with silk. Have your thread the exact shade. Ua is neglect of th vim- Ieeve make The see will tell how | counre: fee and &% a week taney -five years of age. counsel. aa “who woud appear Of the suit in her defense No EXTRA CHARGE POX IT ee for THE WOR ‘any American District Office in Nei Coll a messenger if il meke per- on the correapond- 4 HEIGHT OF DaKT it in the case, a wom- | Fitting becomes unneces- beginner should alwa y' ‘our material it ts too much | ight way to} do their first Or thelr len th. Plaids must be evenly matched, st pes in the same a nap must me_way, else difference in goods should) garment lay be sure that | There must variation at re Very easy ng, but after {a sometimes a great deal t is well to) et everything cotton and 1, ever use rrew. a plain or! had engaged on the triai) LD will be re Mearenger Offer © York Cliy at you have a box ‘This strking Photograph representa the three-year-old Potter of 394 South f iegen 9 Brooklyn. Leaghed Mr eye .¥ Sept. 23, 1899, regarding his cure of TGitipactag’ hee keene My baby's face was covered with ringworms, We could not lay a pin Ps the | FOR SUCCESS. t ia the necret of success in life? Can you . briefly, what rules a young man starting out tn life should follow in order to succeed” If you have achieved success, how did you do it? if not, how would you set , | about It If you had your life to live over again? Put your ideas in fitty words—not more—and send them to “Success Edi- tor, Evening World, P.O. box 234 New York City.” ‘The Evening World will pay 9 for the best fifty words, or less, telling how to succeed MESE three things are needed: Con- Adence and bellef in one's self to accomplish life's work. Application, effort, combined — with and integrity, One must possess tact and sound judgment C. SEYMOUR CLARK 17 East One Hundredth street Yiela Ne Obetacle. 'N order to succeed ome must be reso- lute in his ideas, be patient, per severent and never yleld to any olr stacle that he may encounter during tis | otruggle. Whatever business or profes sion he chooses he must poscaver first to undertand {t thoroughly, Mal] bet ination, work, ‘tor hie to make succei choose that for 5% East Tenth street) 8. WIN! | which you think you have the most adaptability, and, workiug conscien- ana it i And, above all do not try and keep your eye on ef rook." De Wateh the Clock, N looking for a start In life by which BROKEMAECK MAN SITS UP. Walter Duryea Astounds Surgeons in Roose- velt Hospital. Walter B. Duryea, the young man Wonderful, who has apparently set at defiance the laws of nature, and who Insists on lving and thriving with a) broken neck, has again surprised the sible. —_— GERRY CASE APPEAL HEARING POSTPONED. ALBANY %.—By stipulation of counsel the hearing before the Court of on the motion for a reargument | fu the case of (he Gerry Boclety of New York City va. the State Board of tes, which was to have ben held t has’ been porponed until March 12 relay ho says, under date of sores on his face and neck, and he was a sight to look at. Two doctors attended him for three weeks, without success, when I heard of Cuticura I got a box of Cuticura Soap, and a box of Cuticura Ointment, applied them three day ‘tn 1 onty when I could see his face was better, and in four weeks he was cared. His face ia as clear as a bell, and not a mark on it In all the world there ts no treatment so pure, sn sweet, for dtresstng obit aud scalp humors of Satants and #0 economical, «0 speediis efter children ‘EVENINGS | IPRINCESS. CHIc! < ee © © © SOME RULES DRESSMAKING. E ad strengthen ydur employ al! the power of towant hones work money, and spend your ti doin isan (htine only’ hac ase tease camel Three superior garments, in latest effects, at ye good umbrella for for Your pinata | A SAR “nist. | following special prices for two days: A prominent jougal stree / maker's entire stock, A Lot of Requisites PERSON must be amd reliant, honest, indust tovering, t termined, progressi nt tial, diplomatic, conciliatory, obliging, economt: tolerant, capable, he Just, and he must po: Wisdom, knowledge r, health, mental an ath personal magnetis: HY MUS present Itself $333 FRANK VAN VORBT. East Elghth street, Brook the best doctors in for twe ead years collet unt | used the Sterling Remedy ot KEEP YOUR BL OD CLEAN, FREE | iE AbeatTeL 34 e ay oa mail a ¢ the most dainty th New Yi MPLOY all your power to Persevere, reminded that life is short and time ts benevy ) maintain health, and your health ever Over 10, 000 Umbrellas. # Have you ever had before to a A Very Special Suit Sale; Tuesday & Wednesday i ~Ladies’ Tailor-Made Suits, like cut, of all- Here, | 8.9 wool Albert cloth, In navy and blick or black and chased by us for itlous seif- navy blue cheviot; the jackets fly fronts, handsomely tail- Prices that rious cored. and stitched, and lined with fine quality colored silk ; the cost of the we: he sk vox plaited back, percal'ne lined the skirt has the new shape, box plait per offer until sold at the fole , ed, inf and velvet bound; spe- idaabie, cial introductory pric 8,98 f mo) Se lowing remarkable ara: ae 14.0 Ladies’ Suits, B NONE TO DEALERS. eves ‘judg: OY souble-breasted ester Every umbrella in this sale 8 strong. wil eflect, navy blue and. black Ine fully guaranteed, i. Goes perial Cheviot; the coat hus in- L —The Hercules, 4, laid velvet collar, tring steve Lot J, at 28c. Unbreliec Tin Glahie and is handsome y tailored, linet with finest taffeta silk; the skert the newest shape, one side plait- ed, Watteau back, nearsilk lined and velvet bound; a most desir- able garment and one Congo yak handles, for mn, women and children, 22, 24, 26 and 28 inch, value 60c.; our sale price, ~The Giant, a fine, strong Um Lot 2, at 48¢.~ ii, Memtates a trent Uae 2) and 28 inch, mide of Manch. Gloria with fine Conga: & of our leaders, 14.00 handles, steel rod, some silvered trimmed, some with Di , my handles, umbrellas that were manufactured to retail 16.00 Pong | a ee at 9c. our sale price, Z Made Eton Suits, Te a made of Britannies” Lot 3, at 58¢.— which is guaranteed fae 2 years, finely finished with caraeee frame and steel r>da, fine Congo handles,also silvered trimmed and Dresien handles sullen for men and women, 26 and 24 inch: these ume brellis were manufactured to retail at $1.25, our special pr The Chetses aad Leadon, Lot 4, at 68¢,—", “femon.ane Lenton § manufactured; thousands of these haye been sold at $1. made of mercerized and nearsilk which will weir yeas and years; ROE One any umbrella that has een manulactured; they look as well brella, suitable tor men and ‘women: finely de Heed paragon itame, steel rod; have an assortment ae, Congo and silvered trimmed handles: our sale price © ~The Imperial and Benger, Lot 5, at 98c. of union silk serge and taffela, outwear any silk umbrella, It is manufactured of sili linen, all tight roll, made in the very best manner i! on frame, steel rod; have an assortment of Co pear and horn handles; suitable for men’ aas | woe and 2s inch, some with case and tassel a yes that readily sells at $2.50; our sale price, @ tac! of black chev medium gray and light cray camel's hair home- spun. The coat has note sed shaw! collar, faced with Peau de Soie to’ match, and is lined with taifeta silk, New eight-gored flaring { skirt, with silk plaited Watteau| back, lined with nearsilk: bei i- fully tailored and 16 00 ' Stitched; excellent value, for Second Voor, 59th St. Section. Watch Wonder $8.95. For to-morrow we Ge world renowned watchys—the P. S, Bartlett ¢ crown pendant, set stem winders, manufactured by the Walitain Watch Co, They are among the best of the finest timepieces manufactur- ed, and are carried by railroad officials, to whom accurate time is imperative, and are guarentesd the most perfect the had wo | {- timekeepers manufactured, Maia Piser, Prom, keeping time to the second. a ? To-morrow an opportunity is I A Cl ks’ offered to purchase the ut he nsonia OC. Bartlett movement in a thin s ae model silveroid case, which Maes Bye oe will last a lifetime,at Clockas md 22! the remarkably low pricé of 8. 95 Write erg Special Notice,—-We cannot fill mail orders or sell more than one of these watches to a customer; neither can we supply dealers, Main Floor, Front, ¢ — These 8-day marbhetzed Ansonia Clocks, ple precautions that often ruins the ef- i fect of @ gown. It cutting out learn | surgeons and mocked their nyretheres | CSO Pine Sto, Kasten, Pa. $ F H 'somely decor hot to Wasie your goods th cutting aS) @aturday, for the first time, he sat | Groceries and ish i rT Fie YC ecorte als: double your goods whenever pos: | “with fine gilt trimming, man sfacturer peter Inatetal in “double whdth | UPAED, Owaring he weight of Ie own irs. Plakias advises | Uist price $8.70 this sale 3,952 it is already folded back to back and|head and propelling himself gleefully euttering F rice, rene ae oH. bia aaa & oe about the wards of Roosevelt Hompital, | wensen without for Lenten are 5 Mele Piger. Vieats 8 ‘e I'll make monkeys of you fellows) left for i one that vas Ree RSTRS POLLED | vet," he wald, laughingly, to the won- Mess, At Reduced Prices. be days the Fe' ro Saleof + ‘the front. fering doctors and nurses. And they all|= —=3, cy Boneless: Lobster, 1-Ip. tall cans, 25 y The sheath-like skirts that have been ‘ c Genuine fancy 0 Alb, pi otarts het neve Deen} laughed back encouragingly and sald Cod Fish, eee 27 Lobster, cored Ib. flat cans, al ames ans 4 Qodion Fer that reason it is 1 they hoped he woukl, A man with a) teeaeioos to take very careful measures. When| will and disposition like his was better Genuine fancy 7 | 8 cr. Ne You draught one accurate pattern you | than whole hospital full of surKeots, | Cod, 1-10. bricks, merly 35¢., this OesS ai air will have no more trouble about the fi Codfish Shreds, ';-Ib. per can, ° of your garment. ‘The next point is new-| they ald 7 dq Ua 1s to stitch evenly—with per-| After the plaster cast had been cast | packages, French boneless nae? Tuesday, ~ behegaags feot precision. After getting your gar-| aside Duryea regained his lost vitaltty | Irish Salt Mackerel, large cans, aa, ie acid ay special qieaie ¥, bast- tot t 99 28th, last Ae ph gongs | re 'soti| With astonishing quickness. His appetite |, 0. “+ yar, bia movement extra fine, 10-Ib. pails, and Th ae Scotton of @ contrast! olor | came back to him. He enjoyed his cham- | tne pow Neu Wak, or Wr bo Ne Mackerel,’ Caviar, ‘s-lb. cans, 176.5 - asoreatats of Sy sizis that can easily be taleen out and quick-| pagne suppers, und often had friends | Keep your towele cose, and be weil. Force, 1 epi Nob, Ib. 336.3 ts widths are still complete. Eve i Rate wit a fone’ and afer aie Bevis 18 $0. ont With Hie. Tiare was, folly pails, 1. "25 1b, of this renowned make is made for {n too much of a hurry to give time| party at his bedside ¢ as Da: f F pe to your basting. Good pressing is also] "1 expect to sit up by Washington's Holland Herring, 1. 10 Caviar, red cans, 1-16 kilo service, and they are comfo ingly eagential If, you your! Birthday.” he said, confidently. The Milchner, kegs, can 206, 15 kilo 5 from the start. shetoes. weil made. For chis use| Birthday.” he . can, i -| a tailors et but be careful not to| surgeons shook their heads after they ag, 65 . It would be the part of prudence to. hay Te {00 MO oe im Ie to, teach left his room, but nis prediction was al- Kegs, Shrimp, 1-Ib. cans, 12 avail yourself this cpportunity | any one how to craugnt most fulfilled. He was only forty-elght Smoked Finnan Had- 7| Stringless Beans, very 6 be‘ore the month Wwrition lesson, twill cut isnt: fitting hours behind his own predlotion dies, per Ib., fine, 2-10, cans, There are more than tier an) me who cul N he ye he is golng to get well el Maer, as Wal Wore ca | Me™, Ne Sy? 2 ones 19 oot 7 ee here ferent Kinds to select from, brings it to me. , 0 . e 5 solid pack, big cans, , includ with whom everything seems to be pos Scotch Kippered Her- Vici Kid, black or brown Storm Box Calf, Russia Calf, Shetland G: ‘ull leather lined to the toes; in congress; sizes 5 to 11, ve Tomatoes, our fancy New Jersey, solid pack, 11¢. ring, finest. can, 14) kind, big cat's, 8 Tomatoes, our tic. kind, Lake Ciscoes, delicious, extra fine quality and 10 t-lb, cans, J I extra large cans. 3 eo, Montreal, | CLEAN Mail orders attended to prom Following are a f ici Kid, ing ae fe ofthe tee cious, 1-Ib, cans, Brook Trout, per can, Finnan Haddie, dcli- 10) California Asparag: us, Style 801—Black Salmon, fancy jumbia| fancy, 17, 23, 2» and Style 802-—Black Vici Kid, iace, wide toe plain, - River, ih Ib, tall cans, 1 Om 30- cent California =e port ea by eo yy Haven toe caps. 1S in hiteCherries, 1 vbe Sa Leet) ce, 2 | PPA hog fancy, t-Ib flat 18 |r to 2% nS an "24 ist 814 pe apa He arn cal os le 816—Cal! Skin, i cape embossed and cet Rice, whole -Calf Skin, lace, leather lined, serfs de plain and eld, |$ Salmon, fancy, '4-Ib. ar, per Ib., * tos. . Styles 520 —Viei Kid, congress, plain to», i flat cans, Rolled White Oat All oily French Sardiaes, ” * 45) none better, 21h, car J} on sa’e at 2 " Cans, OC. 146. and tons, per pair, ¢ i Amusements. wha Lan MURRAY 1 bie be LORD =a BY DAVID BELAROO G Me c 25-85 50 | THOPULITAN FRAT wet MAND-OPERA SEASON 1890-7 the tnrection ot MER MAURICE 41 Lek TRAY aU ue Sima Dr Poa | Mar ». Prien) RIGOLETTO | Werner MANOS USmD Last 6 Last Mar CASINO! ound Floor, 28h $ Section Main Floor, 66h 81. Corner. Siesel Pianos, $149.00—$5.00 Down and $2.00 per Week. _ Amusements. e., VICTORIA & Ee MAM’SELLE Mentar, ick +A Ss Tir the =a TIME. mc HALL Comiquer. | MPIRE, imaTnr REGATTA GIRL, and PROG KRES THEATRE, near Gi ave By Rushard Carte | Marisa WeDieEsDay Twat Proclsen Toc Flos Irwin & Co. | 14th St. TUPATAe aver aanare Met, ta Amusements. De wine Morinan Peete We ba! tae. PATRIC LAST € NIGHTS—LAST [co SATURDAY | Ward & Curran, Colbys, Prove, Mev. Pies, Mit Palace ® Pete Maker, Patterson tos ‘Mile Ani, Mov Pies @ jOvRE ANCE Lt ATHLONE. if Tom's lnieet, My Devame” Mee DAIRY LOVERING & 00 | Nett Weer Tim Wirphy ia "The ¢ THEATRE Eve 41), Mate Ww Aveisted by ona It [Mem 6, JK, Maeert | (GARRICK THEATRE, ea ATA StRGPMIED | uy DOWN EAST. COMIQUE. ot Ml Be | Met Week—Closed for Rebearea! “Canine Giri % r Pelies Burk ( |) ‘AUNT HANNAH Bip AT OU cages fan, ndon ee esa ea | ty 0 ae es a éu PASTOR Fee cxre™™ BROADWAY E88 TS PONT) A eee rn Teer Laty: Imac Ak? SIOHT. Uhm B a a. MATINEE ‘aur. |DALYS srsvth Paawan, | onaxt., TO-NIGHT. | ry ity MATINEE TODAY “al Patera Kerxton ast neon | SCHLEY Fy, a AAR vir seater ea UM Or" er mers ne WIN' etna Satie Sn 3 tes and Horiesque | * AkD ae ROUCIAEN I we oleh a3 Maxine ELLIOTT “ese jiy's. saan, ED E NY) MUSEE, BUQU sae JMARDING a ANSI ALL OUiAoe NeW GROUPS WARMING MUSIC. “MANHATTAN AAA HELD PAPA'S |HARDIND A Stn, Aaa AMAS rove ca Me 7 7 tines q nav iat » THUNY. NEXT T aw WIFE. | Weber & rs a oo oe TENT Marke Reed pal “ \Acadomy BG SE NEW YORK fst. oar |" WANG saws Wea mM: get % anax | ROGERS BROS. IN WALL sf. Music, forte mew Broadway to T somtimes STARKing “ah, Opium Ring, drone a Peoalar Picea, Wer Mat —e. a |GRAND a AY es cee ‘niet He peat aN — oS | HUBER'S concer woe ars NTS