The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 8, 1906, Page 7

THE expensive, last season. To the 1 )t seem to of difference in of t > knows elvets and heavy . are not thought su m- dress S YOUI’ BY HARRIET MOORE. the time said my esser hair grown for n he fault the fau circum- istrate this here the other day a woman walked with tresses the lor of hay. Her hair looked as though had been bleached. Nothing could e been more unbecoming. In the adow he ir looked greenish; in bright sun it was hay Tell me what to do? she gasped, clutching at it dramatically. ‘It has worried me to death.’ ien she said ‘she had lived in the tropics and had gone without a hat She had had a fever, and had eaten all sorts of things, and her hair had be- come hard and brittle. It was once a lovely gold, but it had lost its life That 18 the trouble with golden hair As soon a€ a woman gets past her first youth it either turns green or grows dark; and one state is about as disa- » as the other business to remedy this. 1 tnis woman's hair so as to restore its tone, amd presently her ood looks were restored. don’t like to bleach hair. The roots keep on coming out dark and the hair becomes worse and worse, You must keep on bleaching it, and every coat of bleach makes it a different shade 1 don’t use bleaches at all, but I make the hair bloom. If the hair is get- ting gray and has just begun to look fron gray, 1 treat the roots. I part SAN Plain and Cmbroidered Fabries of Jl?ljy Diaphanous Latest J{y/e. < v 7 ¥ J) 3 i White Tulle withEmoroidens Appligue DlueVelvet:- BY A. T. ASHMCRE. able, but it would seem as though the X : 2 g embroidered silks and heavier gauzes I8 « e fashiona and chiffons were quite as ropriate t wea 5 e gowns winter, for a dance in winter as in summer, & espects tk 5 ¢ and there are some most charming 2 gowns made up in the lighter qualities Df 8 just for the summer ['h last e for more inexpensive gowns than nderstood. While the quality is good, the price is extremely reason- and little or no trimming is re- ed, a lace bertha or fichu being quite sufficiently effective he crage, for it truly amounts to that, for lace and lingerie frocks makes these same satins quite distinctive, and it is by no means an unusual thing for a woman to include two or three in her summer wardrobe il she is to spena the season at a place where there is much social life, again the spangled robe gowns and, after all, they do look | effective. There never were such prices asked as are now demanded for the most costly, and the work and mate- rials positively are what the price calls for—in reason. The jet gowns are ex- quisite. All the werk is done by hand and in the filnest net, so fine that it scarcely seems strong enough to carry the weight of embroldery. Empire, Directoire and old fashioned surplice jwaist and plain skirt are all in favor for this style of evening gown, and in truth everything depends upon how the pattern is worked out. The most attractive designs have the heavy embroidery all around the lower part of the skirt, with long linés of it running up toward the belt (this is the most expensive), while on others the pattern {s quite widely distributed, as it were, and on the chéapest there is much more net than pattern visible. Black and white gowns are the smart- est, but there is a most becoming shade of mauve that is greatly admired. The pattern is on the wide apart order, showing the net, and consequently the color, to perfection, while the deep skirt of tulle or chiffon, just a snade deeper, seems to throw out the design in bold rellef. Gold or silver spangles on white or black are always effective, and as these can be bought at any time for compar- atively small cost, ut least one such gown can be included in quite a mod- est summer outfit. The great objection objection to the robe gown sold at low price is that he net of which it is com- posed s apt to be defective, so that in buying it is absolutely necessary to ex- |amine the net most closely, choesing |in preference a less effective design in | the spangles, for nothing is more an- | noying than to find after once wearing |such a gown t.at large holes have | made their appearance and that the net | all looks as though it were falling to pleces. The slightest defect should be congidered sufficient cause to choose another design, and, be it understood, this applies often to the more expen- sive patterns also. ! Taffeta silk gowns in the soft finish are charmingly dainty and effective in sumer and can be trimmed with ruch- ings of tulle or not, and inere need be FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. ®uovo By REUT White Chiffor Gown with Limbrotdery~ no trimming but the silk itself. Flow. ered and figured silks are also effective and becoming, and the colorings are charmirig this season. India silks are not suitable for this purpose, the taf- fetas and soft finished silks being far smarter. Figured Indla silks for day wear are always charmingly cool and more or less fashionable, and it seems strange that wiey should never have ben utilized for évening wear, but they never have, and so It is foolish to in- vest in them for that purpose. The plain white are the exception and they are made up with so much lace and trimming that the quantity of silk used amounts to very little, and even then the gown is not at all effective consid- ering the cost. Flowered silk gowns are often the cheapest possible investment. of the silk sales can found odd and ef- fective = colorings that have been marked down to within the range of possibility for the most economical women. A silk lining is not a neces- sity. The only things necessary are more rows of velvet ribbon on the edge of the skirt, and these, too, can be omitted, as well as the fichu or bertha. and in this the can be some small sar- Ing. Striped silks are thought very smart, and they are made up in simplest At any | Rose MuslnnGowr «wt——nu—3 forms, but the fashion will not last, and by next year in all probability such gowns will all be made high in the |neck and only worn in theaters, when where a smart high cut gown is neces- |sary. The flowered silks—always in | light colors, be it understood—are, on | the contrary, always suitable for the low cut waist that marks which order of gown it really is. Among the white dresses unquestion- ably the most effective are of lace— Irish or Valenciennes or the combina- tion ‘of two or more kinds of laces. Allover Valenciennes makes an exqui: site gown, and for this time of year should be made up over taffeta or a thin satin finished silk, satin itself Veing too heavy. Lace dresses were never so fashionable as at present, and while the heavier Irish lace seems to | be most popular for the daytime the | finer mesh of Valenciennes or point | @Alenc¢on is seen most in the evening, | but there is no fixed rule, and a lace | gown will be correct at any time. In | Valenciennes lace, made over a per- | the Empire | | fectly fitting “silk lining, | model is one that Is now most fre- | quently selected. Not the loose Em- pire, however, but an exquisitely grace- | ful gown, with lines that are bound to | be becoming to any figure. In reality this model is made on the order of the princess, as the lace is gathered, or rather shirred, in about the waist and but in the back is allowed to nd as the skirt is unusually long all around there is nothing ungainly about the loose plait or fold, which eventually “orms itself into the long half train. A fold of satin of taffeta ribbon Is draped loosely, over the bust and caught up in front and back im a soft loop or rosette. There is a lace bertha | to this dress which falla down over the | tull sleeve puffs, the sleeves, however, | being very short. With a lace gown | particularly it is essential to have the lining reach just to the edge of the |1ace. Generally an inner slip of net or | chiffon must be laid over the silk to prevent it showing through the lace too distinctly. It is a mistake in summer to have | only lace, silk and net gowns, for so many fascinatingly pretty materials are | fashioned just for summer wear that It seems a pity not to take advantage of them. All the silk mousselines, gandies, tistes are Inexpensive to make up charmingly and are pecullarly appro- priate to this time of year. Then, too, it will bé a comfort to sometimes save the handsomer gowns, for there are few occasions dliring the summer when {dining in public and on all occasions| or-| lawns and embroidered ba-| tan attractive organdie evening dress | will not be suitable. Of the more ex- pensive dresses on this order batiste embroidery underlined with Valen- ciennes lace makes an exquisite com- bination. Some models are made with alternate strips of batiste and lace, the design carried up the entire length of the dress. Others again—these, perhaps, not so new—are of embroid- ered handkerchief linen, trimmed more or less cleverly with Valen- ciennes insertions and edgings. So the fad at present is to have the dreases made up all in one piece; even those gowns that are not, strictly speaking. of the princess model are nevertheless joined at the belt with a strip of lace or embroidery. over which a ribben girdle may or may not be worn. From the standpoint of economy the so-called wash dresses are much more desirable, if only because they do not requir silk lining. A fitted lawn slip is, how- ever, obligatery, and it is always bet- ter to wear a full white silk petticoat under the lawn lining. Among the summer materials un- questionably the most effective are the | lowered and filgured chiffons. This texture is, of course, perishable, and in a damp climate is worse than use- less, but there is no prettier material to be found. Even the most glaring col- |orings seém soft and delicate, while in 2 queer Oriental design an unusual and most effective gown can be fashioned. | A large pink rose pattern trimmed with |Tich cream lace makes a fascinating dress. Here the fichu or surplice ef- fect would be attractive. There are, too, striped chiffons, mousselines and | gauzes, but these as y.f are more pop- | ular for a high theater gown than for | & summer dinner or ball dress. | The robe dr is to be found this year in all possible designs dnd tex- tures. Spangled robe gowns have al- ways been on the market, as have the lace robes, although these last have grown far handsomer recently. As the robes are generally 'y long for the average figure they can be made up in | either the princess or Empire medel. | Among the newest robes are seen some | extremely pretty Dbatiste and lace | dresses. The great advantage of a | robe dress is that it can be made up {0 reasomably, requiring litle if any | extra trimming. While many women protest that it s cheaper in the long run to have only silk or lace evening gowns at this time of year, still no one could be consi ered to ® & perfect outfit if fn ti trousseau ' were not included Jjust a few dinner and ball gowns of really suitable summer fabries—batiste, or- | gandle, Swiss or mousseline. ) air the Correct Color? It was awfully becoming, and the fashion grew. the purpose, and then I brush the hair lightly, wave it and tell the patient to call again soon. “When I oil the roots of hair that is getting gray I fill a thimble a quarter full. With this I massage the entire scalp, taking care not to use all the contents of the thimble. Four drops ought to spat the entire scalp. “I part it, spat it with my finger tips, part it off again, spat it again, and keep on until the hair is ail done. That is the way to keep the hair from getting | any grayer. Then I use a hair tonic. “In the cafe of a man I let the hair get gray. Gray hair is becoming to a 5, if he happeps to have a ruddy With a woman it is different. Gray hair means age, and no woman wants to look old. S8till, there are exceptions to twus rule. “I had @ woman come in with hair partly gray. She was ugly looking. took hold of her, bleached her hair all gray and brought her out lovely. “She went out of my 'establishment one day with hair like snow, and im- mensely pretty it was; but not one woman In a thousand looks pretty with gray halr. “l insist that women who have not pretty hair shall allow the hair to hang part of the day. I make them part it in the middle, give it a light braiding and sit with it thus for hours at a time. This gives the halr a chance to grow. “Last summer there was an epidemic of baldness. ‘What shall we do? women asked in fright. “A halr dresser was consulted, and at a glance she saw what was the mat- ter. You must ventilate your hair,’ said she. ‘Braid it Joosely and let it hang.’ “Then she took one of the sufferers | the hair, spat the roots with the tips in .and, parted the hair, brajded It so | It is apt to fade. of my fingers, using & trifie of oil for | that the braids hung in front and let | to make it nice. Hair grows old befo! I | them hang down to the waistline. “There are women who habitually braid the hair at night and again in the morning. If you were to See them at 11 o'clock you would behold them | with a couple of Marguerite bralds. The bair is parted and a big fat braid hangs dewn over each shoulder. It is girlish and pretty, and it is convenient and be- coming. It is also good for the health. “Some women have nervous heads. | Hairpins make them wild. If they can take down the halr they get better right away. “I make drab hair over into a golden hue. I know how to make it so that it has a high gloss. Then I treat black hair until it is like a raven's wing. “The most satisfactory work is done | | upon brown hair, which is the prettiest hair in the world. 1 take brown hair, even when It is gray, and I work upon it until I have killed the gray hairs. Then I treat the scalp and make the | hair fluffy and light. “The dry shampoo is a great thing. It consists of taking some very finely powdered. bran, or oatmeal, or corn- meal, and mixing a little oris powder with it. 1 have even taken coarse sachet powder and used it with good results. “The hair is sprinkled with it and the powder is then brushed out. When it comes out all the grease comes out with it and the hair is fluffy and light. “It is a pity that nature does not | make the hair the right color. Per- | haps it would be better to amend that | statement. Nature makes the hair just | right, but it losses its beauty after little experience with 1i as it is | generally lived in this vale of tears. “The hair is like the complexion. It needs lots of care {t should, and it is the fault of its owner generally. “The woman who goes to bed at nigth with her hair done up as she wore it during the day invites head- ache, grdy hair, baldness and all sorts of il very bad for the hair, In that it take, out the color pigments. Take the ha! and do it up onm curlers for an hour, or put it up in curlers and pinch it with a warm iren. “Some times, if time is precious, we twist it over a warm iron, but we never burn or break it. There is no way of ruining the texture of the halr like scorching it. “we believe in the gospel of false | hair. The girl who wears little ring- |lets in her hat is the pretty girl of | this season. She can sew them to the’ | loner part of the crown and when she puts on her hat they will dance saucily. | She must be sure that they are a good | match. 5 | “Washing the hajr with henna tea is | something I have recommended for the | almost blonde. I had & girl whose hair wag no color at all. It was once red, but it had gone into a queer-looking brown. “I had her head shampooed three days in succession, after which I ofled it a trifle, using castor oil. The fourth |day I shampooed all the oil out of it and treated it to a little Kenna tea which I made myself out of five cents’ worth of henna leaves. | _“The result was magical. Her hair was its original red color. If she takes any kind of care of it it will re- main that tone always. | “we occasionally give a head a | shampoo in the old-fashioned mixture |of soda and water. We ringe out the soda afterward and dry the hair in the sun. it will bloom very brightly after @oing this, but there is danger that the hair may turn too red under this treat- ment. . “Don’'t have ugly halr is my advige |to every woman. (1 “Cur’lln‘ the hair with a hot iron is | One of the best phases of the blouse |and one which effectually prevents its going out of fashion is its adaptability for traveling and outing wear. much easier to have a blouse laundered than an entire light suit, and several fresh ones take up comparatively little space in a suit case. A woman with a coat suit and half a dozen blouses, some elaborate, others plain for ordinary wear, can tour Europe in comfort and with economy and yet pass muster at such hotels as she visits. Perhaps the most practical as well as the most attractive of the tailored blouses is the “Peter Pan,” which has caught the popular fancy like wildfire, and which is made up in all materials from 12% cent lawn to the finest qual- ity madras. The material required is about three yards, and if so desired the collar and cuffs may be of a contrasting eolor. The true “Peter Pan,” as every one knows, lacks the stiff, uncomfortable collar band and button. The soft turn-down collar is fastened directly to the neck of the blouse, which is cut slightly open at the threat in front on the order of the old-fashioned sailor blouse, but net enough to render an inner vest necessary. Under the collar and fast- ened in a sallor knot in front is a gay- colored taffeta tie. The sleeves just cover the elbow and have turnback cuffs to match the collar. The blouse Is istitched down either side of the front It is| and buttons single breasted. There are often one or two tucks fram each shoulder, but this {s about the only at- tempt at elaboration. Such a blouse is exactly suited for outing wear. The open throat gives coolness and comfort. The elbow sleeves give freedom for rowing or golf, while the simplicity of design allows frequent trips to the tub —a boon to all who know the havoe which is so apt to follow in the wake of the delicate lingerie creation. The shirt waist and the new neck- wear photographed on this page are from models furnished by the courtesy of Gimbel Brothers. The “Peter Pan” suit has followed closely upon the blouse. The suit has the plain skirt to correspond with the blouse, and is excellent for morning wear, being neither so negliges as a wrapper nor so formal as a regular shirt walst suit. . The true “Peter Pan" is, of course, pure white, but variations in plaids, polka-dots and plain colors are finding favor. Another variation is the substi- tution of an ordinary collar band in- stead of the open neck, so that either a turnover collar or one of the new stocks may be worn. The new stocks are what might be termed ““feminine masculinities.” The bows, by the way, are another novelty named for the young Spanish Queen, and they represent microscopic bows of black or colored taffeta mounted on Variations of the Peter Pan Blouse. | collar buttons .and uséd to fasten the |linen or pique stock collar which is | tailored in name ofily, as it displays |any amount of handwofRk, gauffered | ruffles and intricate combinations of lace and embroidery, and decidedly re- | moves all suspicion of manliness from | the 1906 summer girl. | . . . | There is anothér few stock which has been christened the “Johany Jones.” This is a turnever collar of white plque, hand embroiderad, with silk polka-dots the colof of the tle, which is one of the ordinary bows formerly worn by small boys with their turndown linen eollars and sallor suits gome years ago. There is also the tie, which {s not strictly a “Peter Pan" fashiom, but nomne the less charming for that. It ai8o has & plain piquet collar, whilé the narrow ritbon | tie fastens in a sailor's knot held in piace by a long gold safety pin In front. Aside from the tailéred collar and cuff sets, there are all sorts of fancier kinds designed for the dressier blouses. One is a stock and vest which s used to ornament any summer bodice, and | being separate has the advantage of serving upen two or thrée dressés and ’m-y be done up Individually. Some people who dislike shoft sleeves, sew- | ing the sides togeinér and placing the larger end at the base of the Puff at the elbow, although primarily théy were intended for turned back colldes,