The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 3, 1906, Page 10

THE SAN -FRANCISCO SUNDAY PRIDES BROCADED DRESS TRIMMED WYTH EMEROLDBRED Are you goihg 16 -be & e bride Or 4o you know any one who is? Even sh the answer: 10 these. ques- tions be the negative you wili be terested in reading about her, for, th are very few. to whom t subject ‘of the r outfit does nat appeal. More are very few to whom the S not instructive on dccount -of dress h subject the nove ints which one gleams color, fit, shape, style and finish lovely in fabric. When in all the fabrics ever plannéd as this season? | makers t And world were as carefully Ask the dres: s question and they will reply, |2 the year The bride of spring thinks always of her wedding: gown first dovetail in after this has been attended to. But, first of all, come the wedding | dress and its accessories. This subject is | ane of paramount importance to the bride. | One not be going to be a bride, and | know ‘any one else who is g 10 be a bride, but just-the same there gre of g interest{ sseau which makes | t which' all_would like to The fashions of ate spring are planned spe for the no matter in what month she is ma there are certain styles which are meant specia for her. The nicest of reception gowns are hers, the prettiest of negligees belong to her, the most fascinating of shirt waists and the most becoming of voted to her interests hats are de- And these are but & few of the things that are planned with a thought for the bride spring and ber needs! The bridal trousseau is remarkable for things, the first of which is its daintiness. Women who like to be novel can slways find something of interest in the bride’s outfit severa And women who enjoy being stylish can always find something which will make them stylish in spite of themselves. Be they ever so old, or ever 50 ugly, there is sure to be something in the bride’s trousseau which will appeal to them color or design, some quality of pattern or material. ' And so they gain something by a study of the spring bride. This year the styles are pretty enough 28 they are. But the girl who expects to be married will find them immensely chic for her purpose and very becoming. They some novelty of THE BRIDE AND HER GOWN. In previous scasons the bride’'s gown has been distinguished by | plainness. This year it is known by its elegant elaboration.-. Nothingean-be “too handsome in material for the bride’s robe The bridal costumes, as they are now seen | * |in the showrooms of the dresemakers and ;:m the parlors of those establishments that |cater to the bride, are-simply marvels of gorgeous display. One handsome bridal robe is, perhaps, a sample of all. The material is a glossy taffeta of jthe heaviest and richest design It is a pearl white and so stiff that it al- | most stands alone. Its surface is as glossy as satin naturally into folds. The entire surface of this gown is em- broidered in orange blossoms, all in white, just to match the pearl white taffeta. The | design begins at the floor and extends up the skirt and all around the foot. It “reachfis from the floor right up to the {meck, and the sletves are embroidered to |match. “It took three embroiderers three {months,” the modiste tells you, and you |can easily believe it. for the design is | both elaborate and beautiful. | Another lovely gown is made of satin, |all_in glossy white, the lovely .chiffon satin which requires a lining but is soft {and satiny in finish. This dress is em- ever did they compare to the fabrics of The other fashions | its --elegant | But it is softer and falls more | FASTIONS FOR THE LATE PRING the hem to a depth of eighteen inches, | above which the design becomes more del- icate and finer until, in the’ bodice, it is as delicate as the finest embroidery ever |seen. “It was the work of almost u | vear," the bride tells yoy as, with proud are show gowns, delightful in every way, 'broidered in conventional designs around | eyes, she shakes out the slistening folds 2 55 % Ay ] and discloses the gown to you, all one mass of exquisite embroidery. “Did you embroider it yourself?” asks some one, “It was the work of-my - three sisters and myself, . It took up almost a year fiom the day we began. The foot, if you | will notice, is lightly picked out with | pearls. We tock seed pearls and embroid- | ered them into the satin in little wheels, all creamy white.” | The sced pearis-give the gown a curious glisten, as though it were cloth of silver, | while the handsome embroidery made it actually glow ts folds were shaken un- | der the light. This.is the gown for an | elaborate evening weddin. | TRIMMING THE WEDDING GOWN. | Not every woman. wants a | gown this year. but it-is a pretty idea to | know how the wedding gown is trimmed. It may be that the trimming will appeal to one as being suitable for a boardwalk | dress, and it is possible that some woman, wedding | reading about it, may conclude to make | | her batiste in this manner, or Her sum- ‘mer challie, for it is sure to be a good |style and there are always points to be | gleaned from the making of a handsome | new gown. The bride who is very much up to date | will want a princess dress, and this is a style which is very popular this year. It | may be a princess that reaches right up | to the neck. Or it may be one of those high princess skirts which one wears gwun an overhanging Eton, jacket. The | bride wears both of these, all done in taf- feta, satin or velvet, and the boardwalk woman may also wear one, for the same general suggestions apply to both. A bride whose gown will be lovely be- |yond compare will choose white moire | silc of the very' same kind in which her | mother was married. The skirt will be !lrlmmed with ‘a_very little embroidery, | But the' feature of -the skirt will be the strappings of ribbon.- Ribbon three inches wide, all-of glowing white satin, will cross like the figure X upon the skirt. There will be six big white satin Xs, and these will befastened .with rhinestone .buckles and with bows.of ‘ribbon. No prettier | finish than this: could be planned for any skirt. Of course 'the X is very large, fully a quarter of a. yard long. There are othar pretty features of up- to-date bridal gowns, one of the best fea- tures being th: handsome ribbon trim | dresses. Wide - white satin 1ibbon is crossed over the bust line, and the ends are caught upon the shoulders with white satin bows: Again, the enids of ‘the ribbon are caught under the arms,with binches of orange blossoms. "All’sorts of ‘things are done to make ‘the new gowns as. clab- orate as possible. 2 p The boardwalk gown nas: become. of great importance in.the.wardrabe. It is not important dlone to every woman who expects to. walk the boardwalk, but it is {ntefesting. to every woman. Each and Fall ‘must” know about ' the ' boacdwalk ‘gowns and’ parficularly ‘about the . fads and Zrills that pertain’thereto. Of course of prime:importance is the elbow sléeve. ‘There'is the sleeve of sum- mer and, though there are.many that do not ‘like it, there ‘are:very few that do ‘Bot. wear it: It 'seemsito be hardly, a mat- ter,of ‘choice. ' You must.wear the. elhow dleeve whether vou like it or not. It is the style, 'and’all*dresses are made this WAV, ' N, 4 F The best sleeve for. the boardwalk is the very full sleeve.” This is gathered in the shoulders so mui‘}t,set,am:m.uery‘ smarf mings which are’ seen: upon’ so -many| =, { 25¢ fashion. It is caught into a cuff, just be- low the elbow line, and here it is finished with lace or with a trimming of Some kind. This makes a very attractive elbow sleeve. While speaking of the elbow sleeve it must be remarked that its patr growing more numerous every day ns are Those who did not like it once are growing to like it now. And not only.is it the fash- ion, but it is becoming to the arm is neat. In the matter of the w walst there is no argument. It sta clean three times as long as the waist whose sleeve drags upon the wrist and and it shable gets soiled in the first half “hour. And then it is dressy. too. To continue . with the subject of the shir# waist, it may be told that a pretty waist is-the style that is made with the round neck extended a little higher by means. of narrow bands of lace. This neck s a feature of most of the shirt fwaists that are worn with the board- walk gowns of this summer; for it must be told that most of the boardwalk 8owns are two piece suits, consisting of skirt and Eton, while |a pretty shirt waist. |every five gowns are ner. underneath is worn At least two of | made in this man- PRINCESS GOWN FOR THE BRIDE. The bride’s princess gown is one that 1(‘3" be copied by any woman for almost |any occasion. The style Is good, and if | the gown be well cut, and of suitable ma- {terial, it is good for any occasion. | The prettiest gown of this kind is the | Princess with Eton. The skirt is made close at the hips and with a very round | and very full foot flare. ‘The princess, in- | stead' of being very high, is cut off a few |inches above the belt line and is finished | | either in points or in scallops. Thus it re- | | quires no girdle at all, for the top of the ]sklrl, coming just up in under the bust, is S0 very ornamental! With this high princess skirt there is | worn"an Zton jacket which is short. elab- | | orately “trimmied, and so arranged that it | | hangs over. the silk skirt. This makes a | very_ charming- suit. _ Tafféta is the .ideal material for the princess skirt and jacket. But a great many 10f ‘these suits are being made of foulard, and they-are in all colors, brown, blue, gray-and tan, for the foulards come this season in every color under the sun. | And they are also in all materials, challie, cloth, novelty goods and white linen. | | Every material is impressed the | serviee. | »Some of the handsomest of these prin- |cess skirts' are made witn lovely strap- | | pings of glossy braid around the foot and ‘| extending .up the skirt. This braid makes | a very elaborate finish and one which is | |admirable in every way. You cannot trim | to" better effect than' with this glossy | braid, which comes in all widths and in every. color*and every weight. The bride’s trousseau must also have a few: gowns made of Oriental silk, and | happy is the bride these days who can | make her own gowns or have them made | ‘Inexpensively. The Oriental silks are very cheap'this yéar and they make up beau- tifully. They can be bought at a few cents a yard 'and, when completed, they are so | pretty that they are worth many times the ‘amount . paid - for them. ' There is a story told of a pretty girl into | what to do, whe is golrg to be a June bride and who [ha@ very little money left after she nad bought her wedding gown. fe e required thfee hand= some “dresses, she went to & shop wherm they sold Oriental. goods. HOW TO BUY THREE GOWNS. P oliis - wire ead out before her Not knowing and she soon saw their possibilities. Fof 72 cents-a yard she could get a-silk ma= terial gooa for a pretty piazzm dress, in- a of pale coffes color, which could beé trimmed. with an jmexe pensive torchon of the new and very. ef- fective 5-cent: variety. These figures may séem laughably -trivial, but veautiful Zowns can be made up tils way: Looking further, she found a lovely taffeta, perhaps not all fine itk but very good indeed, in a shade of duck gray, at a reasonable price. -And this she found she could make into something very efe fective for a dinner gown. The trimming in this case was to. be lace sét in, to make with an insertion, te be.bardered hand embroidery. For a third i handsome streét a bought 'a pretty Panama—one .of: the tew varieties of this cloth—costiiig a very: little per tle. she rigged herself out for the summer. e could go to the altar ‘with a. happy ‘s that she had at home, in“her t packed for the future, thiree gowr would dazzle the neighbors and r high credit upon her own taste and the family pocketbook. There are many new materfals this sea- son, but though they are dignified by new names, one recognizes in.them the 9) and very popular favorites. . There are t voiles, which are made this season with drop silk skirts. There are the Panams cloths, which are héavy enough not to re- quire a lining.. There are all the old cah= vas goods under. one name oF another. And there is cashmere, that friend of woman, out this year under half a_dozen different titles. These are all splendid goods, and no onie can make a mistake in buying them. They will wear forever and look nice until they are out of style: But the bride and Ier friends, whether they are buying a bridal outfit must look out as .te. color.” Foeur are popular this year. ©r. peviiaps would be better to say that. s will rule. “The most popular shade is gray. This is having. a- pérfoc: e It is what is called Irish popiin gray, the color which one associates with Irish poplin and which- was fashionable years ago. A LITTLE SERMON IN COLOR. Next to this comes violet in-its paiest tones, and there are violet hues that are most delightful. They are just faintly off from lavender and white: yet they are decidedly vioiet. These colors will hold their own all the season and are particu- larly .good in the thin materials. Thay are very pretty in mull, in. lawn, mn fine Imen and even in organdie. The proper trimming in almost every case is white lace, which gives the gown a certain deit- cacy that is very becoming. Alice blue and turquoise hold their own;‘ or_ not, shades it and very becoming they are, but oné mu have everything to match. and this costs too ‘much for the average person. “Get an Alice blue,” advised a dressmaker, “and then buy a little black and white | plaid dress. You can mix up the two suits very nicely. One looks well with the other. Of course you will also want a gray for you can mix up the colors with these suits, and you will want a tan for the same reason.” The other popular colors are green and rose, and you see both of these tones a great deal. Bofh are beautiful and are worn for the street and the hotise They are handsome, no matter whese they are seen or how they are worn. The new frivouues in dress are the arm sarters. which are called gartlets. They are to keep up the gloves, and they look suspiciously like the garters that are worn for other purposes.. In many cases they are jeweled and elaborately trimmed with . ribbons and embroidery, making them the most exquisite things ever seerm, The new stockings are alse worthy of note. They are embroidered and built upon openwork designs, and they match the costume. Lthis makes them very -ine teresting from a woman's point of view, for they gave her certain opnqrtunmes’n; dress which she did not have before, And tie same with her shoes, which come in all colors. She can get them in kid, patent leather, in suede, in linen and 1 cloth. Never were shoes as handsonse @ now, and never were they as becoming to the feet. The woman who does not ime- prove the shoe opportunity makes a great mistake, for she loses a good chance 3 make a nice effective dress <