The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 11, 1906, Page 13

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. N SRS The Princess Dress, With Its Diicult Trimmings, and the as Well as afraid to indulge In a sult in an¥ of these tones 1f it is becoming. very recently that ladies have gone out upon the street afoot In gowns But this fashion and will be still prevailed season more popular this year. Pale pink, light biue, soft yellow browns and ta and creams will all be worn on the reet, side by side, with silver, lob- ster, crab red and salmon. They make up into lovely suits which do not soil easily, after all, for one keeps them for nice—not for marketing—and with a little care they last all the season. The style in which to have a'light thin broadcloth made—since the talk has switched In the direction of broadcloth— is the one which Is now being used for wash goods also. There is really very lit- Eton Wash Sait Will Both in and Be Evidence, Numberiess Other Pretty Appropriate Summer Trim Your Will Wash Vers styles—How o Gowns So They pot Well N ALEXAN- DRA sat In her - R gy tle difference between the two in the style mornin M SU- of maxing. The broadcioth suits are perintending the made with the Princess skirt with corse- making of her It overhanging Eton coat. This bt 278 styl as vopular now as it ever was EOWN, & The princess skirt is quite plain and is wash pink organ- continued high up to the bust line or p die. Near by,upon lttl below,Thh may be trimmed with 3 ved ng. en comes the Eton coat, the chairs and guerhanging it heaped high upon The Eton, by the way, is now bullt the round along a slightly mew line. The latest table, whick model differs quite from the old model ’ in many important respe It is cut in the m very iong in the front and very short in the room the back. This makes it a little more be- coming than the former model which re- vealed the princess .in the front just where its lines were apt to be awkward The Main Styles of Summer. The three styles that will be worn most of all this summer are very much like the old styles. It seems absurd to mention them as new, yet they have points which make them new. There is the princess skirt, coming up high enough to form a corselet or girdle, with the overhanging Eton, short in the back and long in the front sewing at there were piles of The Queen is mer sewing off piles pretty summer fabrics. e who gets her s n, is season she forchanded, for she o be 2 big year in Lond @ & great deal will be expected es of the court early her Majesty has a ask 12id out for her. Not ¢ acuets Is U3 BV BT ShoRs e : . rs et Ry eal © chine stitchi the plaited She - Mply BbF “WSESWE mnl the' uyipt JtE SNNEE SioN cket, half loose oria, but s under- front and back and trimmed with braid or embroidery. The kilted skirt with Eton coat and gir- dle, made of cloth or linen, or thin sum- mer stuff, will be worn again. And there will be the circular skirt. with little loose coat, nicely trimmed with hand work and made along the taflored lines, with plenty taken t e task g e sum- mer gowns of her daughter, Queen Maud appointed Queen de kingdom. ¢ Norw y m n Maud, when she was the Prin- ha way of coming home his time for the mak- of stitching and seams very neatly fin- f t of e hing, fof ished - s y one of And, last though it should have been King of first, comes the circular skirt with its £ ar she must sit neat blouse finished so that it makes a C take care handsome sult for the street. These and . styles, with their variations and modifica- tions, actually form the list of the sum- mer suits. 8kirts of washable dresses will be made in three ways, all of them familiar to the home dressmaker. There will be the plaited skirt, the fitted skirt and the cir- cular skjrt; and to these may be added the shirred skirt. These. models have held good for two seasons, yet there has been nothing at all to replace them. They seem to cover the whole fleld and to supply every need that the fat woman can have, as well as all the neeessities of the thinner sister. One of the first things one notices this vear is the tendency to show the figure. Last season everything was cut loose. This vear the suits are tight and fitted There is all the difference in the af, and this sea- lepend upon her mother b fashion. of Queen amstresses capable ning and iing the be worn nd her daughter. color, both and in the folk of the of the sum- in all ma- 3 ; snugly. and pink worla in the cut of the coats between e, pink cam- jaq¢ fall and this spring in this respect. The loose linen coat which was so much worn Jast year is going out this season. Perhaps it was & little too popular. Any- way, it is not belng made up to quite as great an extent. The loose coats are cut off a little below the waist line, and are I one of the old fashioned kind which*had not been miodernized, and a four-year-old could have opened the windows. The female party that owned the house had the reputation of bein’ thin and made In the style ol }mighty rich and sunthin’ of a miser, 8o suit, will ve appropriate all sum- §1 thought there might be good pickin's _," Eis w " h for me in the way of old silver and the Xt e s e 1o exiremely {llke. She had married a young man secoming. Closely trailing this {about & year before my visit who was ity come the lobster tints, the {known to be sufithin’' of a high roiler. “The first room I struck that seemed awberry and the salmon and All*of these are safe as & {promisin' was the dinin’-room filled up with massive mahogany furniture like The Light Colors of Summer. ms absurd to talk about broad- esses in the summer time or to hem for summer wear. But, as of fact, they will be consider- and those who like broadcloth sefe in getting it for August be & thin broadcloth of the kind § { ¢ chiffon broaacloth, and it e of the soft finish almost like of more body and with the s of broadcloth pretty chades for summer will be which will be worn a great deal, lobster, buff, shrimp, cocoa, biscuit, own and lemon. A pure pink house,” sald the reformed burglar in a reminiscent modd. “It was coral tones. summer ipvestment, BSo one need not be s course, it is not crinoline at all, but is made full and round from its own natural stiffn It pretty certain that the circular skirt will not go out this summer, no mat- ter what new styles come in, and it Is a pretty sure thing that the muslins and organdies, the mulls and the batlstes will be made up after this style. There will be nothing very fancy about it, elther, juyst the circular skirt with its ruffies, and its trimmings of lace put on in rather simple fashion. { There are good times ahead for the woman who likes to malte things. This season she can embrolder until she is happy and she can inset, stitch, design and carry out until there is nothing left for her fashionable soul to desire. She has an absolutely open fleld in which to L, Sowrs v DRy AT el GiEDiE OF, Aorsery Baluia s A space for hang work of all kinds And s makes it possible for poor peopls on & small income to dress very well indeed. Here is the descriptién of a pink batiste Just being made up for Queen Alexandra. Read it and judge for yourselt if the style is not one that could be copled by any person who wants a just like one to be worn by royalty itself. The skirt, which is circular, is trimmed with three graduated ruffies, which are to be put on mot very full. ¥ou want sometning pretty and stylish, is upon the circular skirt model. You take your skirt and cut it round, and you fit the hips closely. There are more gores in the skirt than 1ast season and the hips fit snugly, Indeed, there is almost tion of crinoline in the way the sets out. But, of siightly fitted, like the pony models of the winter. Making Your Summer Dress. As for the fitted three-quarter coat it is disappearing. Like the long, loose coat, it was a little too popular. And now one does not see nearly as many models of it. The way to make your summer dress, if ’l‘ho ruffies are HAD mo trouble gettin’ Into the they don't bulld nowadays. I had no trou- me, and then asked me if I was & ama- pared to oben hing {n the hardware ble in openin’ the sideboard, where I toor, or could I blow a safe without line, and then, With his gun p'inted, he found o few real silver spoons and @ cotsin’ the nelghborhood. ‘If you have backed me out of the room to one ad- Joinin’ where there was a safe in the wall. Then he told me to go to work and sat down in & chair with his pistol turned my blamed lot o' plated trash that wasn't worth carryin’ away. I wae just about to leave the room when out flashed an electric light and 1 found myself starin’ at the barrel of a pistol. A young feller in pajamas held the gn. end his hand didn’t shake a bit. had a business look in his eye, s0 when he told me to throw up me hands I done s0 without no rgument. ***“How much of & hgul have you made? he asked, pleasant. I told him only a few spoens, and that it was a low down trick to pinch & man who hadn’t got enough to pay for his trouble. “He acknowledged there was & hoss on “Well, sir, to make the story short, I opened that safe with this pelican super- intendin’ the job. There was wads o’ long green in a tin’ box that would choke a cow, likewise dlamonds and other shiners. .. The boss o' the business sorts ‘em over careful, and when the box was clean ‘he hands me over some old breast- rings and a baby's silver the materials with you to crack a safe’ pins napkin s he, ‘why, you aw mell djvide the m ‘ng told me that that was my share, pin spoils. < ts the rest as calm as ye “I acknowledged that I had come pre- ase = o ‘AII)”—‘ 9?95, HITIX &) " & T 1 THR TRIDGE smv]am bound with batiste of a deeper shade of pink, almost a dark strawberry red. The headings are narrow novelty lace frills. Above the top rufile there is a pretty pink and white vine, worked In silk and run- ning all the way around the skirt. Sur- rounding this vine, so as to e & pretty little pattern, there are French knots of mercerized pink working cotton. The Queen's Lingerie Blouse. The lingerie bhlouse of the Que walst is open In the back; the front is trimmed with little frills, running across the bust line. Above and below there are some little vines, while a tiny lace edge finishes the frills. The suit tubs very well and is nicely mdapted to any thin material. It should be worn over a rose pink slip, provid- ing the body of the batiste be In pink. But it makes up well In wash- able Japanése silk, with pink and blus flowers outlined on an ash gray back- ground. Brown is not supposed to wash well, yet there are shades of cocoa brown that come out nicely. une very pretty brown is found in the batistes and also in the foulards, and it is likewise seen in the cotton challies. It is rather a soft shade of cocoa, the very color that goes well with pink, and it should be made up with pink frills and, If pos- sible, with little toucnes of lace dyed “ *Now, then, about face and don’t kick, for this gun is likely to go off,’ says he, and heads me back to the window through which I'd entered. ‘Git through there, and be quick about it, son,’ he says, and then, as if to add insult to inf'ry, gives me a push that sent me fiyin’ Inter the back yard ready to choke with rage.” “When I'a got on me feet I heard a plistol go off in the house an' a yell for help and knowed who done it, There was nothing for me to do but light out. It seems that young man was the old party’s husband. She’'d kept him short of funds and he took this chance to make good. dld ye ever hear a meaner job pink. Anything and everything for the preservation of what the lace art- ists call the harmonies. Dye lace will be used a great deal upon the summer dresses and it sup- plies the tone so often needed. There can be a little blue lace used as an edging to a gown of blue batiste, the whole carried out in g very pale shade.. And there can be a little blue lace ap- plied to the softer of the cotton print goods, those that make up dressily. But, In eyery case, the dyed lace should be very delicate, a sort of pastel shade, light and tender, so to speak, rather than deep and glaring. Pale blue lace ls Frenchy, but deep biue lace is not apt to be so ,good. Mrs. W. K, Vanderbilt Jr., who is one of the dresslest women in soclety, gown- ing herself always in the very pink of good taste, is making a speclal point this spring of the full suit, with every- thing to match. She,wears a violet-sill with at least a dozen small violet be- longings. She has ordered a very pretty pearl gray organdie, which is trimmed with ruffles of the same, for so many of the summer gowns are ruffled. The skirt is a circular one with many gores. To g0 with this there is a girdle trimmed with chiffon shirrings and a very pretty gray organdle lingerie blouse, half covered with embroidery. The Small Things of Dress. But the things which catch the eye are unfizmlu.lpnolmmenu of the dress. Th is a-wrist bag of gray suede. There is & big gray straw hat trimmed with gray plumes; there is a floating wind veil of gray chiffon with embroldered ends and there are gloves, fan, umbrella and bandkerchlef all to match. Small wonder that the soclety woman needs a mald. It takes a mald to keep one’s belongings In good shape and to sort them, as it were, Into sets and to preserve the sets entire. This is a day when a costume means & dozen articles all alike and the woman of society must needs take all her time ar- ranging her wardrobe if she is to keep her sets complete. A very fashionable New York woman whose name you would recognize as syn- onymous with good dressing has a elothes press which is divided into compartments into which her separats suits are slipped. This is an idea which might, to a certala extent, be copled by the woman whose wardrobe consists of half & dozen gowns, as well as by the woman who boasts half a hundred. Each compartment has a “hanger,” up- on which the skirt id the coat are slipped. Then there is & place for the parasol and the umbrella, for every nice suit now has both of these articles. There 1s also a box for the shoes, both high and low, and for the galiter tops, which must of course, match. .And, in the top of the bax there is a place for the fan, for the prettily embroidered half dozen handker- chiefs which match the outilt, and for the several wrist and hand bags that go th it Hanging up thers is the long circular coat, thers are the boas and the neck ruf- fles, and the little Eton coat; while upon a shelf, prepared for this purpose, thers are boxes for the three hats which must be built to accompany every suit. The hats—for fashionable women now have thres hats with every dress—ars the big pletura hat, the neat little turban and the small silk toque. These just about make up a fashionable outflt, unless one would count the half dozen pairs of gloves that go with it and the jeweled pins and the bunch of scented artificial flowers, for this is a day when one must have all of thesa. The Floating Summer Veil. With most summer suits, and particu- larly with the mulls and the lighter of the summer fabrics, thers is now worn a ~eil which is very like an automobile wvell except that one does not wear it over the face. It is & wind vell arranged in & new way. About thres yards of materfal are re- quired, and the colors are & pale cream, 2 soft gray, a light pink and a pastel blue of some onme of the lighter shades of green. The color should in all cases be light and should harmonize with the gown if it does not closely match it. The mate- rial had best be chiffon, which s after all the most desirable of materials. The way to wear this vell is to part it in the middle anc pin the center to the top of the hat. It is now brought down wide- ly over both ears and crossed under the chin. The ends are carried back, crossed back of the neck and brought front again, where they are fastened with a beautiful brooch. This gives a very pretty finish to one’s gown. But the end is not Fet. The veil now covers the ears closely and shuts out one’s sight, and It (onsequently requires some pinning. With two pins it must be gathered back a at the sides and secured so that it does not obscure one's viston. It holds on the hat well, but does not cover the ears quite as tightly, nor does it obstruct one's vision as It did before. This is one of the neatest and prettiest of ways of wearing the new automobile or wind veil. It holds the hat on forever in the teeth of any gale, and it gives a woman, cousequently, that dash she needs. The linen dr¢sses are so pretty this year that one can excuse the woman who buys a dogen linen suits for summer and not very much else. She wants a pink Hnen. That should go without saying In th summer of pinksi and she wants a blue linen, for blue has been magdé wonder- tully popular by the Alice blues and the other Washington shades of blue—for it is the color of the season in Washington. The woman who can wear pink can re- jolce, for the pink linen dresses are love- 1y, and since the woman who wears pink ean also wear brown, she may be thrice happy, for there are pinks and browns without rumber. But linens are the smart dresses of summer, and for traveling there will be some very beautiful deep linen shades—garnet, Londen brown and royal blue.