The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 21, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRA Do g \as od A TAL R d /) EMBROIDERED XIMOND < Materiai for Which v Gnthered All Over the d. Are Being Made Up, it Is Noticed That Allce 1 Predominate While e Pink Is a New Shade the Trousseau for Dride keep them from r-made look, & strap of set down the middle of t. The stock was a bril- o gold lace, finished with There was a wide lace lace and golden ningly ‘worked. A tle gold lace with & brown e was en additional touch A marvelous plece of silk, brought from apan, so fine you could pull it through ring, yet eo full of body 4 make it stand by itself, ught into & luncheon waist. his time, along quite ajf- g something of the fit- The beck and sides the front was cut 11 bust and plenty of silver lace put in very cun- as to fo squares. The fnev- led this walst. But » was extremely deep Ty narrow in the fromt, than two inches wide iIn was caught with a n m buckle. five wagons t carry Miss 1 presents up to the These were the gifts while abroad with the Ana the most paft sted of dress goods. There from all quarters of the perhaps of all the vast amount of dress goods was quite as handsome clat as much atten- the linen which was given her outh. The leng! of hand- meade in Southern Asla are the world over and linen of India can compare with n and satiny, bie and beaut! in the world; unfortunately ttle of 1t fis made that it is pever sold as a com- mercial product. The native women make it for their own use. Those who were fortunate emough to be able to lay aside their dutles long enough to be present at the open- AND BLUE— . - ONE OF : MISS RODSEVELT'S i EAU S0 :chxs‘éqyfrfisa. EDNA WITH " BRIDOE" JAAD they say that s. Roosevelt vt the Custom a rare sigt n few intimates seats of honor in the middle of room, while Miss Alice and a dozen of he: is presided over the unpack- White House attendants brought up the chests and the cases opened and the contents spread were it to the delighted view of the wo- 4 who was with the Taft party Presldent’s daugh- ter used every effort in her power to keep foreign potentates and diplomats from presenting her with these gi and was only when they came in a way that they could not be re- that they were accepted at all e shimmering silks of Japan, the oideries, the and the mar- s carved ornaments, beads, Woy- cloths and the grass goods Philippines were forced upon ways that could not be fore- ia her stalled But to return to the trousseau, which necessarily one from all lands. Speaking of it generally, it can be stated that it is the prettiest bridal outfit ever made for a: bride. The bride’s great personal wealth from her mother, the position of her father and the gifts she has received, along with her own good taste, make it a marvel of beauty. As far as possible the retalls been kept quiet. But the facts leak out, and this is what a woman wno has frequently been a guest at the ‘White House has to say about it: “The trousseau does not embrace as many gowns as was supposed,” says she, “but Miss Roosevelt has taken ad- vantage of the mode of the up-to-date bride, which is that of obtaining the material and having it made up as in needed. This will be the custom of nearly all of the soring brides. In every trousseau there will be a dozen unmade gowns, to be made up later. “But generally looking over her trousseau, one is struck with the qual- ity of blue, and particularly with the gowns in that shade of blue known as Alice blue, which is a light cast. One also sees a pretty pink, something like #almon pink, called Alice pink. & “One very lovely ball costume Is made upon empiré lines. The gown is all of heavy lace. It is made walk- ing length, or a little longer, and the waist is short, llke an empire walst. it is full and round, and shares the general charaoteristics of the empire waists—namely, that its sleeves are short end puffed, its shirring full, its neck low and rounding, and its skirt short enough to show the tips of the slippers. “And now, n the empire ball gown, SLEEVES . lfr. S CHAMPAGHE COLORED CREPE_ comes the distinctive feature—the train —which is made of light blue satin thickly embroidered with little flowers. There is a wide sash of satin to match agd this 1 is wound high around the waist, making an empire sash. There is & big rosette at the side, which is decorated with a big jeweled button in the middle. “The train, which is not quite so long as a court train, is so arranged that it hangs in folds, completing the gown in the most exquisite manner. To the eye of the prudent, one there is something suggestive of the second season in this gown, the season when one leaves off the train and wears the gown short so as to be of dancing length. The sash would be trimmed with rosettes and streamers and the trdin rémoved. “Embroidery plays a very important part in the dress scheme of the bride. There are beautiful gowns that are un- trimmed save for quantities of the most exquisite embroidery. In most cases this is done directly upon the fabric, meaning hours of timeé and countless dollars, ““There is one very pretty and very per- ishable gown of blue silk linen. It is as sheer as & web and it is to be worn over a slip of blue lawn, for it is the smart E for the simple life from e now on,” sald the woman as she washed the punch glass- es the next morning while the Boston girl wiped them. “There's nothing in this thing of giving pink teas and working for your living at one and the same time. They don't as- similate. This series of high teas is going to stop so suddenly .it will make your head swim. No more for me.” ‘“When do you begin your simple life?" asked the Boston girl as she hung the punch glasses on hooks here and there about the studfo. “Now,"” replied the wo:zln. *“This mo- ment. Not another party for me, not an- other tes, not a pink ink table d'hote din- ner even. Not a club. On the other hand, strict adherence to duty and a bare sub- sistence upon bread and butter and a pint of milk a day. This soclety dodge won't . -Not if you have to do the work your- entertains should be prepared for it. Bhe should be able to say CISCO SUNDAY CALL. BPRONZE. caper to wear one's embroldered gowns over lawn Instead of over silk. It is not a cheap fad by any means, for the lawn in many cases is as fine as a butterfly’s wing and costs a great deal of money. *‘A blue embroidered silky fabric, which might be batiste, is embroldered entirely In blue, numberless vines of little forget- me-nots running all over.the gown. The entire robe, for it is a robe dress, 18 eov- ered until the fabric is hardly visible save as a background. “But the remarkable feature of the trousseau is the tendency toward tight- ness. The dresses fit the figure. They are madde upon the new close-fitting lines and they fit the shoulders, the back and the hips with a snugness which savors of the bodice suggestion. Many of the gowns have really the old-fashioned bodice, for everything is to be tight-fitting this year what for? What thanks do you get? Not that it isn’t pleasant. It is. I love a bunch of jolly people around, always did, but life’s too short to wash punch glasses and brush up crumbs of cake, and you have to becausé vou can't wade through them till Katie comes back Monday morning. Can you? “The simple life is best after all for & Wworking woman. I am determined to live it. I shall get up early of & morning, while the dawn is pearly, and make up my humble couch. Then I shall sit on it and read my morning paper when Rob, the elevator boy, has finished with it. “I always had to do the second table fct when I was a child, there were 80 wany in the family—sixteen sometimes. I shall read the paper from beginning to end, I mean from end to beginning, and get ideas. I shall read the murders even @nd the suicides and the advertisements. Then I shall sit at my desk and work and work and work. Of course, I will have a little breakfast first, a light and simple breakfast of, no, not breakfast food, bread and butter and milk and a little jam, if I have it. It I haven't it, T won't buy it. I shail deny myself everything but the absolute necessities of life. You can do without jam, you know, You don't ?:vt to have it. Besides, it makes you t. except only the blouse shirt wal “A very lovely dress is in cinnamon brown, the prettiest, warmest shade. It might be an Easter traveling dress, for it is light, yet with some body. It is made of chiffon broadcloth, which is as thin as cashmere, but very glossy and with con- siderable finish. This dress is made upon the bodice lines, with a high girdle and a full gkirt. The skirt is trimmed with four deep tucks, and between the tuckings there is an applique of lace, dyed brown and put on in peints. The walst has a deep voke of brown race, and there are sleeves with very deep cuffs of lace. The girdle is partiy cloth and partly lace. “Blue predominates in the wardrobe. But there aré brown gowns and quite a number of black ones, a decided novelty for the bride. But the black gown these days is not necessarily a mourning robe, ‘1 shall live the life of a recluse. One could hardly bellevé that could be done, but it can and shall be. You will see for yourself I shall put the idea of any crea- ture of the male persuasigh far from me. 1 shall shun the men as I shall the table d’hotes. There will be no waiting for callers for me. I shall bar my door and keep 1t barred—" “For how ‘long?’ asked the Boston girl. “For weeks and weeks and weeks,” the woman replied, *“‘perhaps for years.” She went to the glass and put back her hair with a touch of sad fingers. “I think I am already beginning to have a simple look,” she sald. That was in the morning. At 6 o'clock she knocked at the door of the Boston girl's studlo, which was on the floor below. She had arrayed herself in every glad rag she possessed In the ‘world. e “1 wish,” said she when 'the girl's face appeared, “that you'd lend me your night key. I have mislald mine.” Then, in reply to the amazement de- picted upon the cotintenance of the Bos- ton girl, she added: “Some friends of mine have come to take me to a big dinner to-night, and I don't think I'll be home m: before midnight.” £ N AUCE RCOSEVELTS TROUSSEAG THERE FEATHER. ®BOA Ta MATCH A TROUSSEAT GOW o ORIENTAL SATINT ®aC N 3 [ VIiOLE T s A PAaLe= AR LACE TOQYE_ o .o, and some of the daintiest and most at- tractive dresses of the season are bulit of black materials. “‘One of the charming French dresses of the trousseau is a black peau de sofe. It 13 made with one of the very novel three- quarter coats, something ke a Louls XVI. The coat fis like the paper om the wall, being molded to the figure at front, back and sides. There are. only two buttons, and these are set high upon the front. while the coat is cut away, something like a man's cutaway coat. This is the new French coat. Bernhardt has two coats of this description in her wardrobe and the Countess de Castellane wore one the other day when she recelved the Spanish grandees. There was a blue vest with gold trimmings and the skirt had just a touch of gold upen it “If a modiste were called In to ses the gowns she would go in raptures over the silk coats, for they are numerous and as elegant as can be made. There are tight- fitting coats of the Louls XVI, Louis XV and Louis XI variety, and this means that there are some dressy coats, for the Louls days were those of smart silk coats, for tte most part cutawhy, beautifully fitted and brilliantly designed and exe- cuted. Mostiy of blue, there is glways a touch of gold unon them, while there are many coats of black, with heavy em- broideries of pink and velvet. “From memory, enumerating the coats as I recall them, there are seven-eighths coats, rather straight and very beauti- fully finished with tallor-made stitchery; and there are long, straight coats for driving without any fit at all. There are also coats that are snug around the waist and full around the foot in imitation of the new dress skirts, which are fitted at the belt and full around the feet. ““The very popular tight-fitting suit is represented by a certain snugness, which must be seen to be imagined. Those who recall the early days of the tallor-made gowns will remember how tightly the dresses used to fit and how a woman worked upon them to make them look as though she were actually molded into her dress, as indeed she was. “In the case of the present tight-fitting, tailor-made suit, the reform begins un- derneath, where one puts on underwear that is called tailor-made. It fits the fig- ure perfectly, and there are no frills. The materials are very thin and beautifully adapted to the figure. Then comes a cor- set, which {s modeled. And, finally, the gown, as exquisite as it can be, is put on and buttoned. There is not a crease and there is not a seam anywhers. It might as well be all woven out of one plece, It is so perfect throughout. “A gown of pale plum is in Miss Roosevelt's trousseau. Thé skirt is short and is trimmed with black silk ratd. beautifully fitted. It is as snug as it can be and the front is hooked {nvisi- bly and then buttoned. This makes it fit the figure. The buttons down the front are In silk, made of button molds, Covered and embroidered in very pals The coat Is a seven-eighths, i TUE i g gmuaomsasb LVER_» plum, lighter than t is wade without a flat band of plus sleeves are very shor colored bits of silk s There is not one & dress. 1t is tailor-made worthy a place in an “There are many might be mentioned bride so royally ftt things are sufficient to show the gen- eral trend of the t sseau and to indi- cate upon what lines it will be built. It will take in all the wide range of fash- jons of the year, and no one can find all of the very new and very individual syles represented.” Speaking of trousseaus nd new styles, there are many things which will interest the woman who wants to dress well. One of these s the new but- tons. Get a dozen button molds, as big and as flat as possible, and go to work upon them. Cut bits of chiffon velvet of the right size. work a flower in the middle of each bit of velvet. And in the middle of the flower set & tiny pew- el. This will make as handsome a but- ton as you would want to see. Anpother button scheme is a little more elaborate, but very neat, just tl same. It consists of two button moldg, a tiny one and a big flat one. The mol are covered and one is placed upon the other. The top one is embroidered, and there is, of course, a little bit of tinsel, or a bead set into the button some- where. Thus, one has a very nice but- ton ornament. Those who can crochet have at their disposal some of the handsomest of walst trimmings. Crocheted loops and balls, crocheted ornaments of this kind and that, crocheted danglers, wide and flat, and about the aize of & silver quar- ter, and crocheted flgures, such as fleurs-de-lis, are all worn. They are used as waist trimmings and as deco- rations for jackets and long coats and for a finish to the eton and the prin- cess. It is amazing to note how many trim- mings are hand made, and this means something for the woman who is han- dy. It means that she can have really elegant trimmings at very small ex- pense, and it means that she can trim her spring outfit as smartly as she may desire. Instead of paying out a great deal of money for her walst ornaments she can go home and make them for herseif. And what this means in the matter of dressmaking only a woman who has made her gowns ca ntell you The spring colors threaten to be rather light. But, on the other hand, there are the orthodox shades upon which one can depend. There is a deep brown, which will prevail. It is called cinpamon, but is Qquite red Golden brown is a worn a great deal and it fs mixed with dark brown. There are nine new shades of brown, and In the list can be mentioned London brown, which is a deep red brown. looking llke a very dark cardinal. Shoe tops are made to catch every dress and the dress shadés are so e centric that it is absolutely necessa to take a plece of the goods along wi " one In order to have one's galter tops match. But this means only a trifting expense and one to which any woma is willing to go in order to have shos tops that correspond. “Give me shoe tops,” sald a woma “to match my gown and I am mad- But, of course, I must have a Ii::» toque to match my shoe tops and this spring all the cloth toques wiil oo trimmed with little plumes. Give mo also a wide warm girdle, fitted to waist. and trimmed with buttons. An give me gloves of the same shade practicable, and let me have an um brella, a stock and a handkerchie’ wrist Bag and fan. Then, with tr's outfit, T shall feel as though I wers provided with at least ome sut tha: is ready for any emergency.” It costs as much to finish a gown as it does to make the gown itseif There must be all the littles of dress and these are some dozen in number, ‘V So, the spring woman, far from reel ing that a dress will make her com- plete, will realize more and more L she needs a thousand and ope extra ;t:l(eh’: before her gown and her out- will pass muster in the ring parade. . o other or never was a i eu But these -