The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 23, 1905, Page 8

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CAL! es were of & trons there I saw on one 1 elbow 1 uffies on per- morn- 100n sey dia 4 to Paris 2 reversal of the regu- a practical. convenient ivention as the shirt wais s sure to endure. It 6ills what s sometimes call “a long- can girls will not <irt and two or nd stylish shirt vays manage to look arily classify vanity as Tt often means notn. 16 desire to appear ap- nd becomingly appareled, spirit of self re- arried to excess, it » other virtues carried to But in that case, it is into bad taste, which is ing that vamity alone should ach us to avold This year Dame Fashion has decreed that fine embroidered waists may be worn proper well into the w to be protected from the cold 10 Keep In the fashion, an underwaist of soft silk, made with high necks and long es may be worn under the thin lawn, 2 does not admit the cold air. In this m rate climate the silk underwaists need not be put on until quite late in the fall, it silk waist, It is v warm. for which we should be duly thankful. The thin and embroidered shirt wa e look very dainty over a che-corset.” The “peek-a-boo” walsts lose the sig- nificance that i..e name implies over the silk underwa A change of name will be necessary in that case. The dressmakers’ league now seems likely to lead us into all sorts of extrav- agances, and it has already selected the shirt waist—our cherished and heretofore econemical shirt waist—as the first point of attack. The dccree has been !ssued that there must be no more mannish and untrimmed waists—that, on the contrary, our waists must have ai} sorts and kinds of trimming—that they must have hand tucks and hand embroideries—and, in short, everything that draws upon our slender purscs, and that serves to make an up-to-date waist not so much a neces- sity as a luxury. That this is true, however great the pity of it, can be seen in the fashion jour- nals. It will be found there that shirt waists must now be made of handsome material, and so elaborate as to require the services of a skillful dressmaker. No longer can simple and untrimmed walists be made of plain and cheap material at home. This being the case, it is more econom- ical to buy waists than to have them made. They can be bought at various prices, not absolutely ruinous, and of various styles. Messrs. Newman & Levinson have had some Dbeautiful walsts, although it is rather near the end of the season, and have lent me some of them to photo- graph. One of them is of the finest handker- chief linen, beautifully embroidered by hand. The yoke Is tucked in small fine P azrsris ROz VAT 252 LEVINSON, tucks that go down the front, meeting an elaborate pattern in fine hand- mbroidery. In the center a large bow- knot appears as a cluster of flower sprays. The yoke and cmbroidery is outlined with insertion, which gives the waist a very dainty finish. The back of the walst is plain, except that it is tucked straight up and down. The sleeves, which are large at the top, have a design of insertion as far as the elbow, where the high cuff of tucks and insertion joins the puff-sieeve. ‘Make over my shirt waists? Why, of course I dog’ This quoted remark was in answer to a question which I asked a dashing and fashionable young matron of Bur- lingan She said further that the slecves of the walst that she was then wearing had been turned upside down. The waist itself was a beautiful one, and well worth all the alterations that had Leen made to it. But I could not help thinking how refreshing and how helpful it was to hear a woman, who leads in fashions, not afraid to say that ghe made over her shirt waists. Soft silk is a lovely material for shirt waists and when combined with Irish lace it is dressy enough for al- most any informal occasion. The one that is shown in one of the illustra- tions is very elaborate and very stylish. It is made of China silk and buttons down the back. The heavy insertions that are shown in the photograph are of Irish lace. In the way that these insertions are set In they give the effect of rays of the sun® starting close together at the top and spreading out toward the bottom. It is exceedingly pretty. The material is so thin as to qualify it as a lovely summer walst. At Del Monte tafféta is worn a great deal, but the taffeta is of very thin texture and a dead white in color and is profusely trimmed with lace, ¥ WALIST OF THIN NI SILA day. It is a very beautiful waist and it is very elaborately trimmed with two or three different kinds of lace. It seems odd that it is quite the mode to mix laces, but the effect Is mors attractive than one would sup- pose. This waist just referred to had Irish and Valenciennes insertion, and stil! anothor kind of lace in the medal- lions. It was almost as elaborate in the back as in the front, and was but- toned in the back. The Irish lace criss- As 1 saw a walst almost the exact scrossed in such a way as to make an counterpart of one which was worn by one of the debutantes of last year, I have had it photographed and repro- duced among the illustrations of to- elaborate pattern, and in one or two places where the dnsertion made a sharp corner a medallion of imitation rose point lace was let in. LINEN WALST O ZLABORATELY HAND TUCHED AND EMBROIDERED. 2 But after all that can be sald In fa- vor of silk waists for summer wear, it must be confessed that thin lawn or linen waists are much more to our ta “is by far the ste. Handkerchief linen pretticst material for summer walsts. It i3 expensive, it is true, but it wears exceedingly well. Any one who knows how to embroider can, with the exer- cise of a little ingenuity and the help of a good pattern, make a handsome em- broidered linen waist at home. The only expense will be the cost of the material itself, and that should not be much more than $5. Cluny ,lace and handkerchief linen make a very pretty combination and one of the waists shown in to-day’s 1 lustrations will demonstrate, the state- ment. It is tucked at the yoke and has two bands of inch wide cluny lace ir sertion runping down the front, about four inches apart. The space between is finely tucked by hand. On e side of thé bands of insertion there is some very. fine embroidery and button- holing, and French dots are scattered about The design is of tiny flowers and leaves, which are made of button- hele work. The slecves are full from the top to a little below the elbow, and are finished off by-a cuff of cluny in- sertion and tuck The back is made with groups of tucks, five in a.group. At a matinee recently I saw an exceed- ingly pretty girl, dressed very prettily in an ecru net waist that was very at- tractive. There are very few of such walsts to be seen. This one was made entirely of tucks wi h a very small lace yoke and collar. It was very simple and was lined only with chiffon, showing a dainty lingerie corset cover. I must be allowed to add, too, although my subject has nothing to do with hats, that she wore the only up to date French hat that Ihave seen here. These hats may seem to us now very queer and perhaps very foolish, but they are com- ing all the same.. It 1s a very small round hat, just the shape of a Tommy Atkins cap, but it carried a wing on one side out of all proportion to its size. It just fitte. = the top of the head of this pretty young girl, her ondulee hatr com- ing out far beyond it. It was quite a curiosity, and attracted the attention of every woman in the theater. But—Shirt walst, once more! There are some shirt walsts of handker- chief linen, with embroidery fine enough for a handkerch..i, and these walsts are very elegant, but very expensive. They must be bought before . ng made up, and made to fit the figure. are made of charming. ; embrotdered, inese shops. it is quits al in the end. en can also be ps, and they expensive, it is econom Embroidered strips of 1 bought in the C make excellent summer belts. These strips are about two inches in width, and they can be used for tr! ming as well for girdles. Tbe Japar are to be recom- silk is bet- mely, but for a shirt waist nd when found aand it 1s not easy proved to be should be kept the prevailing fas becoming, can always be eas- fly made it This year collars are generally attached to the wat oft and dain- ty. They are ed little ruffle of Val These hats are s at home, and i tell how it with a Iz for 35 cent and provide s with tarleton mbroidered center piece d doiley to match. an and an embroid These two pieces, which are intended as part of the equipment of a dinner table, constitute eric that makes the he large center piece must be cut out in the middle and fitted to the rim of the bat frame. The dolley, when edged with Valenclennes lace, will make the crown of,the hat. Around the crown a wide piece of soft satin ribbon is to be tled with a large bow in fromt. For the under part of the hat, buy two yards of accordion plaited ruffiing of chiffon or lawn, and sew it deftly on the bottom. Between the scalloped edge of the linen and the edge of the rufiiing sew on an edge of Valenciennes lace, joining the top and bottom together. This is an easy, ingentous and inex- pensive way to ke a bhat that would cost more than $15 if bought, and the re- sult will prove to be prettier and daintien than any bat that can be purchased. real lingerie hat.