The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 16, 1905, Page 5

traveling —-. ng the Fren prootir r hou L minds of Contine and my- Hoc ling, severe ald mean t bad work. But to our we found the professor riosity about if it were ts in San ned, and as mel- uffed by mischievous people which he was fn- 't, but which he thought unately for us, eresting and a semi-barbar- ject in this article Is not reminiscences of ces in Europe, although that ways presents itself to ¥ to shed some light on apparel it is desirable to will stretch out to iles before reaching gh we are gradually own experience and what Is best to wear ct it may not be amiss e on the subject. First rland, which, though he winter season, yet heat, the dust and discomfort, is ter- on naturally Montagu'= 1 drcss and sober in ¥ good advice for travel- glittering generality,” re needed. To begin jewelry should be ing of any jewelry bad form, and the only P irances are con- clean and neat as mstance 1 con- al for travellng to light, cool and JES noi penetrate it, dust can be easily of the illustrations to- pretty brown taffets coat i= the new much the same cut as The collar, reivers nen and A shirt- TLYO Drotos- suit, but a dark taffeta waist matching the suit and with plenty of clean coliars and cuffs to make frequent changes will prove to be the most serviceable, al- though the wash waists are the most eco- nomical in the end. A silk waist can hardly be expected, after .a four days’ overland trip, to be in a condition to do fpriher dut Toilet articles should not be foigotten, such as cold cream or le- tion for the face and hands to prevent the skin getting too dry and parched, for the water is always very hard, while the dust and smoke are veyy bad for the skin. Sometimes ether is used for that purpose, but a very little of it on a small plece of absorbent cotton is sufficient. It is very cleansing. Alcohol is also cleans- ing and refreshing. Hats should be small, the smaller the better. The so-called polo hat, which is quite new, seems to me to be an excel- lent traveling hat, as it is small, com- pact and very durable. At Davis' I was shown a very pretty polo hat of white Milan straw, with a pretty coque breast one side of it. It was small and und and fit to harmonize with ax or waist, and it would be very g becoming. The black poio hat, which is made with brush pompons on one side, is probably better for rallroad traveling than the white. as it will show the dust and dirt less. One of the fllustra- tions gives a picture of this black polo hat worn with an Oxford suit. It was my misfortunc once to cross the con- tinent with a woman, who was dressed plainly in black, but the secret of the dressing-room revealed to me the hideous fact that it was not only her dress that was black, but that all her clothing, even her underclothing., was' of the same funereal color. She ever forced upon my unwilling confidence that her nightdress was black also. And she tock the trouble to explain to me that she had mdopted this singular garb because it did not show the dirt, and therefore required no changing. After that I rcgarded her as a particularly fit person to avoid. The best sort of under raiment for traveling by train will always consist of old things that can be thrown away from day to day. Even if old and thread- bare, they will be clean, and one's self- respect can be maintained. Another of the illustrations shows a GRAY ST W T TE ZINENT AND ST REVERE S traveling gown made of Oxford cloth, & splendid material that sheds dust almost as well as silk and wears finely. The color is quite new, and the dress Is very well made, but it is more particularly adapted for a tall woman with a good figure. The coat is very long, reaching almost to the bottam of the skirt (which is made instep length), and fits snugly at the waist, buttoning down the front. The suit is “tailor made,” and the whole appearance neat and styvlish and exactly adapted for traveling by train. The shirt-waist sult is also good for traveling. Waists take up very little room in a suit case, as it is not necessary to take many of them even for a trip the continent. The collars and hould be turnovers. They take up e room and can be changed often. t and waist ought to have hooks and eves at the back, so as to do away with the boiher of safety pins, and to insure the proper mceting at the back. The shirt-waist travellng sult shown in one of the illystrations 1s a good ex- ample of a stylish suit. It is dark green in color, but of a very pretty shade, with a small line running through it. The waist Is made with small box plaits on the shoulders and sleeves, and the cotlar is plain with a little tie of the siik, and s made for turnover collars. The cuffs on the slzeves are meant for white turn- Lagk cuffs. As it is sometimes necessary THE SAN FRANCISCO™ SUNDAY ~CALL to change twice.a day, one should start with at least cight collars and cuffs. The hat worn with this suit is a very pretty one. It i3 of white chip straw, trimmed with green mull matching the suit, and has two green wings. The veil is new and pretty and is made of white chiffon. Each end of it bears a pattern worked out in raised chenille dots, which gives it ‘quite an effective appearance. Vells have nowadays become such a feature of our costumes that a great many new styles are coming out this year. The Tuxedo veilings are very pretty and they can be had eighteen inches wide, cither plain or with chenille or velvet dots, and in any color to match any costume or hat. This atyle of vell 1s worn hanging straight down from the hat, anu not brought in close under the chin. The fashion of wearing two vells is still in vogue, but In that case the under veil must be a very fine open-work design, and the outer veil a fancy chif- fon that can be turned Yack on the hag on coming fndoors. There are also several new styles in mourning veils. In New York the mourn- ing veils that are worn, most are put on 2D D45 & tancy crepe hats and hang straight doNs the hack to the knees. The same fashion obtains in Paris. but it does not seem to have reached San Francisco yet. Our * conventionai mourning vell is made of grenadine or Brussels net, and has either crepe or ribbon bLorders, and is worn over the face, hanging straight down from the hat in front and in graceful folds in the back. Crepe is hard to clean except with the use of alcohol. I saw another Tuxedo sult which de- serves to be described, and which I found particularly attractive. It was made of a gray home-spun material, with a vest that had somewhat the appearance of a stole. The vest was a shepherd plald. banging straight down in front. The cuffs and the under belt were of the same ma- terial as the vest, and the skirt was quite short. A pretty hat to wear with this kind of suit is a large size horse- ? HOW TO MAKE YOUR HAIR LUXURIANT AND GLOSSY Be very nparticular to use only clean brushes and combs; impurities collect so rapidly we scarcely realize how unclean these articles become af- ter a few days’ use and especially so when the scalp is inclined to throw off unnatural waste deposits. It is largely the unclean brushes and combs that, are responsible for the starting of dandruff. Shampoo the hair thorough- ly and frequently to cleanse the scalp, using a mixture consisting of one pint of warm water, the white of one egs, Do not expect a cheap rubber bag to last long. Start right by purchasing a first- class bag of the required capacity and _then take care of it each time after use. Never pour boiling water directly into the bag, for it will soften the rub- ber and cause it to soon break at the seams. Fill with quite. hot water and refill as often as necessary to retain the desired temperature. Amnother point to remember is to fill the bag but about CCo T air braid Polo, with a large white owl's head in the front of it. Owls' heads are being worri a great deal this year. Re- ferring back to the short skirt which makes part of this suit, it seems that skirts are now getting noticeably shorter than they have been heretofore. In New York skirts are being worn ankle length, and although we are always a little be- hind the New York fashions here in San Francisco, yet they get here “all the same.” So it is certaln that it is safe now to order all future skirts to be made cuite short. In summer, linen suits can be worn on the train. For short trips, an oyster coior_linen trimmed with Blue is quite pretty. The coat is cut loose. square and quite short, with bands of blue and white inch wide fancy fagot stitching. The short skirt is trimmed with three simi- lar bands. The hat worn with this is a two teaspocnfuls of tincture of green soap and cne teaspoonful of violet wa- ter. Stir the mixture until well blend- ed, rub into the scalp and complete the process in the usual way. Improving the circulation of the scalp will also tend to discourage the formation of dandruff and assist nature in throwing off natural waste. Massage the ‘scalp twice ench day by going over the en- tire surface several times, gently rub- bing: and picking up the skin between the finger tips, being careful not to irritate or pull the hair. To stimulate two-thirds full; in this way it is kept soft and of convenient shape to slip about the body. When not in use the bag should be emptied and hung up, mouth downward, to drain. To pre- vent the sides of the bag from stick- ing together frc lack of air, insert a small perfectly. smooth stick to hold the folds apart. If this is not con- venient then just before the bag is to be used pour in a little hot water and shake it around vigorously; this will loosen the folds and it may then ML AT VNANS WTRION') 6000 110 100010000 A blue straw hut in the continental shaps and trimmed with a box plaited ruche of champagne maline. These ruches are very preity and make a simple but ef- fective trimming for a hat. The Pana- ma straw hats for ladles are very neat and very good to travel in. A pretty a two-toned Panama, the nat- top, and a pretty shade derneath, made in a three-cor- pe. and with only a large mili- of red silk on one side for style nered tary ros trimming For ocean travel, one must have warm clothing even in summer. A flat steamer trunk that will just slip under the berth wiil probably hold ail that is required for a voyage to Kurope, although on the ocean liners the passengers dress a great deal. Seasickne: however, frequently obviates the necessity of giving any at- tention to dress, but during good weather there is a good deal of gayety, and gen- erally plenty of good company, and con- siderable formality about dress. Special attention should be given to shoes, for on board a steamer shoes seem somehow to be always in evidence. I therefore rec- ommend several changes of shoes to be taken, and all of these only the best. Wear a short skirt, with a warm waist of some kind, or knit woolen corset cover or jersey that buttons down in front, with long sleeves. A fur coat is also a very desirable thing to have, to wear over the dinner dress on deck in the evening. The fur is not injured by the damp air, and comfort is assured, if one wishes to re- main on deck during romantic mooniight evenings. I crossed®he Atlantic last year with & very smart weman of New York, who was evidently experienced in ocean travel, She wore low tan shoes and tan colored stockings, a well-made gray skirt, ankle length, a silk waist and a squirrel jacket, ané carried a muff. Her hats were very trim and neat, and were so well fitted to the head that she had no trouble with the wind. At dinner she wore a da skirt and a pretty light silk waist, al occasionally an entire light silk dress. Dressing for dinner is de rigueur for women, and not considered the. proper thing for men. All passengers have to provide themselves with their own steam- er chairs and rugs, and It is important to secure a good place for the chair at the earliest possible moment, where it {s sheltered from the wind. One final word of advice to those who are going to Europe for the first time, and that is, engage a regular and convenient hour for use of the bath-tub and engage It as soon as possible, so that you will not find that all the practicable hours are al- ready spoken for, and mark all your pleces of baggage, trunks, satchels, suft- cases and hand-bags with a distinct and clearly defined mark, so that at the end of the voyage you may easily come by your own again. the growth of the hair I know of noth- ing better than the time-honored com- pound of one ounce of oil of rosemary, three ounces tincture of cantharides, one ounce of olive oil and six ounces of best bay rum. Apply to the scalp be- fore retiring, after brushing the hair free from dust, and rub in gently. Avold ag far as you can dampening the halr too much, as it {s apt to make the hair smell musty where It presses against the pillow during the night. Allow it to dry thoroughly before going to bed to avoid any disagreeable odor. ON THE CARE, WEAR AND TEAR OF HOT WATER BAGS ; be filled. Never, under any ecircum- stances fold a rubber bag before put- ting it away. Tie the stopper to the handle of the bag so it will be there when wanted. A good plan to make the water bag more attractive and also to Tetain the heat is to make a flannel case into which the bag may be slip- ped. The small bags which are used to allay pain about the head be encased in a bag of silk or & mfiuflhwow could crochet one