The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 9, 1905, Page 4

cozore PAFFE I OGN LIZE FLOIACE. CcorER oF MBEZ2RZZ70%S TV HCE oo gies o R bands of Valenciennes insertion. At the top of the flounce is a beading correspond- ing to the beading sewed on the skirt, end through both of them is run a plece of ribbon, in order to make it possible @nd easy to take off and put on the flounce when become sofled. This shifting flounce is & very great con- venience and comfort and altogether very desirable. Under linen suits, the skirt should match the suit, although white skirts are always allowable and go well with any color, but the organdie floufice over the colored silk 1s very attractive. The next prettiest thing in lingerie efter petticoats are corset-covers. These are made in & great many styles and shapes and may be, and frequently are, very elaborate. They are consid- ered nowadays very essential articles of epparel, particularly since the “peek- a-boo” waists came Into vogue, and they are, in fact, almost as much in evidence as the blouse itself. In the fllustration showing the pink petticoat the corset-cover worn with it is an ex- ceedingly pretty model and it is one that is easily made at home. The en- tire front is of all-over embroldered lawn with a scalloped upper edge. The embroidery 1s very heavy and very handsome. It buttons down the back, which is made of fine lawn., and the shoulder straps are of inch-wide wash ribbon tied in & big bow &t the top of the shoulder. This style of ribbon straps is particularly attractive, as the color shows so prettily under a thin waist. These very thin waists, which are known by the name of “Peek-a- boo” waists, really require dainty rib- 7, q TTNK TRELEELDI SRR HZ727% DEZTF IR TZE LG DIE 2 FLODDCE FLEOVER f ETBROTOERY CORSEY COVZER, ¥ e Y e LRG> FZETITE COSTTYES =porr om0 SIS LAGE 2,7; GsFE besides having the merit of being y inexpensive. With two cheap hand- kerchiefs, costing only 25 cents each, 2 serviceable and pretty corset cover can ¢ be made. The handkerchiefs are to be folded on the bias and cut in halves, and one of these is to be cut in two in the same way. There will'now be three large halves and two smaller 'pleces ready to be joined together to serve the purpose of a’corset cover. hemmed edges of jone of the Tfarger haives, overhand insertion one inch. wide, for the back, the point being at the ‘top. Overhand the other two large pieces of handkerchief on either side of the inser- tion, letting the points go to the bottom and the raw edge at the top. This will make two pieces to go upder ‘theé’arms, and insertion must be sewed on the hem- med elige around the neck. Now take the two small pieces of handkerchief and sew their hemmed edges on the insertion, On the two* SUNDAY points down, with a raw edge at the top and down the front. This completes the building of the cover, which now only re- quires some finishing touches. At top and bottom sew on a band of insertion, rolling the raw edges, and on these bands sew on some half-inch-wide em- broidery beading to hold ribbons that are to be edged with lace. Whether the front shall have the band of Insertion on each side or not it must be edged with lace. It can be fastened together. witly three little pieces of ribbon on each side, to be tied together. For the shoulder straps inch-wide wash ribbon is the best to use, and it is to be run through the beading across the back and fronts and tied in pretty bows on the shoulders. But as many girls are willing to make their own underclothes, instead of doing what is called fancy work, they can very easily make the regulation corset covers by purchesing a yard or a yard and a bons and bright colors and pretty bowuf beneath their gauzy surface. g Pongee suits of tan color are being worn a great deal this summer and al- most always they come without an un- der drop skirt, but it {s beyond ques- tion that the pongee skirt will not and does not hang well over a white lin- gerie petticoat. The underskirt must be HAUNCEY M. DEPEW {s consid- ered a famous American humorist, but he has his serious intervals when he says things well worth of silk, although up to this year silk quoting and pondering, and it skirts have not seemed to be suitable(could not have been a. mere Jest for summer wear. Now, however, the( when he remarked the other day that the secret of longevity is work, temperance and fun. To these three elements in proper proportion the as- cribes the satisfactions and successes of his long and happy life. He has no monopoly en these Iingredients. that fake up joy and length of days. They are within easy reach of any one of us, and if we have not hon- estly and earnestly tried-to blend them in our own lives, why not begin to-day? The experiment may be well- worth trying and may take “that tired leok” out of our faces and discontent. and despalr out of our hearts. ... Work—How much of latent blessing is wrapped up in that little word. The drift, to be sure to-day, is in the other dlrection. Shorter hours and easier jobs are coveted., Multitudes either hate their work or else endure it while it lasts: But if they did but know it, their work is their salvation—not too much of it, to be sure, not too hard 'work, but a sufficlent measure of reg ‘ular useful’ work to.call Inte action ‘one’s physical, mental’ and . moral en- ergles. A business man strains to lay up enough money to permit him to re- tire from business, but when that longed-for day .arrives he often is at heart miserable. He' really wishes he cquld be hack at the desk or counter, lingerie silk skirt solves the problem and even without: organdie- flounces they are so made as to look summery and appropriate. I saw two skirts that had been made especlally to wear with pongee suits. One of them was a rich tan heavy taffeta, made “tallor-made” style and elaborately smocked and tucked with a few stitched ruffles on the bottom and all outlined with gold braid. It was simple, but at the same time rich and effective. It appears in one of the iliustrations, showing at the same time another style of corset- cover. The latter is in the empire style, and is composed of two-inch Val- enclennes insertion sewed alternately on to twelve-inch wide strips of very fine French nainsook, with large pink bows on top of the shoulders, and the effect is very pretty indeed.: One very good feature of this corset-cover is that it is sure to fit well and the shape of the neck is especlally becom- ing. A little while ago I spoke of making corset covers at home, which reminds me that handkerchief covers are also very easy to make at home, and they are very f;h‘;::mdr or to the world w WorK, Temperance, Fun. ¥ ¢ A Sermon by the Parson ¢ @ having an active part in the world of affairs. No discipline s much harder for a literary man or a scholar than to be denied the health wherewith to per- form his daily task. But brain work, you say, is quite dif- ferent from monotonous manual toil or household drudgery. I admit it But can’t you force yourself to' love your task instead of hating {t? Can't you realize that multitudes must do Just your kind of work if the world is to go on and that in God's sight your ‘labor is just as honorable as that of a as the college president? It is true, quaint old writer puts it, that a woman with a broom in her hand and the love of God in her heart, as she sweeps, the rooms day by day, is making drudgery divine and is helping the world to ad- vance just as truly as is the minister who preaches a sermon. Mrs. Brown- ing has beautifully depicted the resig- nation and contentment of one who ac- cepts the work God gives him, is grate- fyl for it and cheerful in it. And ever at each period He stopped and sang, Praised God, Then back again his curls he threw And meekly bent to work anew. Temperance—No life is wo! much to g h in any is intemperate. In the matter of eating and drinking certain persons ‘in “order to be temperate have to become total abstainers. Because of their inheri- tance or because of their own acquired tendencies moderate indulgence with re- spect to this edible or that liquid is im- possible. And the safest way for yourg men is not to presume upon their ability ‘making each day CALL & LRI WLV DETHCITELE FHOTNCE N F SOOIV ZTEE FND VO FHENC I 7 7z B LERN, COFRSE? COlZie.. s IRIIIVEL AT CORSZ? Corzr. quarter (according to the size required) of the embroifdered lawn, with button- holes at the top for ribbon, that is sold for that purpose. This material can be found in several different qualities, from 75 cents to $2%0 a yard, and it can be so easily made up that it is more like amuse- ment than work. The bottom of the stuff is to be shaped to the waist, gathered In at the front and a little at the back, and then sewed on a beading that will hold the ribbon to tle around the waist. For the shoulder straps four tape loops are to be sewed on and ribbon run through them and tied on top of the shoulders, in the same way as in the handkerchlet covers. The front must be turned and hemmed, of course, but the work is really very slight, considering how effective thp re- sult proves to be. But the really serlous matter is agaln the ‘“‘tempestuous petticoat”—and there is yet a great deal to be said on this sub- ject. The first question that arises is, what to wear with white?—which has gen- erally been so hard to answer. But the one that was shown to me at the Lace House seemed to provide a perfect solu- fion to this problem. It was of the purest white—so much so that it seemed like wash material-and it had a detachable flounce, twenty-two inches in depth, at- tached in the same manner as on other petticoats that I have attempted to de- scribe; that is, with a ribbon of pure white run through both beadings. The organdie flounce was “a thing of beauty and a joy forever.” It was made with tucks at the top and bottom, with inser- tions of Irish lace. The hem was finished with fagoting and a narrow edge of Irish lace. Nothing could be better for a suit of white linen than this style of skirt. The corset cover worn with this skirt, as shown in the {llustration, is showy and attractive. It is made entirely of .Inch wide Va- lenciennes insertiog .and inch wide strips of French nainsook, the back being en- tirely covered with tucks. With very thin .waists, the corset cover should have sleeves—little short puffs, just large enough to hold a sleeve protector, are sufficient. It is a very simple matter to add the sleeves to the corset cover, and the result is a much more satisfactory ‘garment. Oyster color is being worn a great deal this summer and a great many of the Teally smart tailor made suits are of that ‘#hade, Which is a tint between white and ecru, with a grayish tone to it. It seems a very singular designation for a color, ‘but it really does describe it, unpleagant to cope with their appetite when once it is aroused. But temperance means much more than one’s attitude toward what one eats or drinks. It means self-mastery, the power ‘to discern when one has had enough of anything. It means 'also temperance in speech, in moral judg- ments, in dress, in general decorum. Be a temperate man, then, not in a narrow or partisan sense, but in your whole titude toward life, Fun—Don’t leave this element out. Life at best is serlous and strenuous'enough. Have your times of let-up. Even a Glad- stone needed to chop down trees occa- sionally and Presidents have to go fishing or bear-hunting. We cannot keep up to concert: pitch all the time and do the best work. ‘Let the clock run down oc- caslonally and don't think that, because you cannot take a trip to Europe or sport an automobile, you cannot have any fun. Put your dignity aside and sport with little children now and then. Con- descend to the birds and flowers. Let your dog or your Kkitten amuse you; or have a hobby. I know a man with great business interests who gets his pleasure and respite in hunting for and acquiring old furniture. No man's life ought to be #0 full that he cannot avail himself now and then of a good concert, a clean com- edy, a Dpleasant soclal evening with friénds. Thus we fréshen ourselves for ‘Work, temperance, fun—They may not be all the elements that make up a happy and well-balanced life, but when rightly blended they go far not only toward in- suring for us a green old age, but toward as it comes and goes “worth while." as the suggestion may seem at first, though it seems to me that !he name ought to have the prefix “Raw,” to fully meet the requirements. But I fancy that it is futile to criticize the names 9( colers after such fantastic designations as “crushed strawbergy” and “subdued mouse,” and some others, and no man can tell what singular color may be in vogue next year. A very beautiful silk petticoat was amon saw unpacked the other day, and pe;- haps it was the loveliest of them all. It had a twenty-four inch crgandle detach- able flounce, put om by a very delicate wash ribbon run through the two bead- ings, and it was trimmed with very be&f‘ titul Normandy repousse lace. This lace is 2 fine net, with large dots worked on it and standing out in rellef. Van Dyke points of broderie Anglaise, with a col- ored Perstan dot were also let in, and the .points were outlined with beading through which was run baby ribbon of & reseda green color. The whole offect was rather dazziing, but still delicats and lovely, with a French air that was very smart. It would ald my efforts to display these interesting garments if it were possible to give the minute details and the color- ing, but as that is impossible, I have to do the best I can in the way of deserip- tion. The carset cover which is given in the {llustration showing the wondesful petticoat is a dainty little French crea- tion of fine nainsook and lace. A very inexpensive trimming for un- dercléthes s what Is called lace footing, and at the same time it is really very pretty, but the richest and most eSfective motif for corset covers is embroidery. Medallions jolned by lace or small em- broidered yoke inserts are used a great deal, and are very pretty. A great many trimmings are in the circular patterns, and a good example is shown in one of the {ilustrations, which displays a yellow petticoat with a twenty-two-inch orgam- die flounce, and trimmed with interlald circles or wheels of Normandy lace insertion running entirely around the - flounce. ' At ‘the bottom it I3 finished off with a double tow of deep " Normandy lace and five rows of tucks. - This flounce la attached with corn-colored taffeta g those that I & wide mauve ribbon tied =n & bow af one side and brought down to the middis of the flounce by a loop and tled again in a fancy bow. The motif of mauve on the light yellow and white gave this petticoat a decid~aiy French air and made an uncommonly pretty effect. The corset cover is a good example of the medallion embroidery. It is some- what of a novelty, as it buttons on one side and the buttons are entirely hidden from view. The little medallions’ set in lace insertion are made of the handker- chief linen, and beautifully embroidered by hand. Some corset covers that I saw in Paris last year at the Bon Marche Wwere very attractive. They had repousse embroidered roses on nalnsook, and the roses were worked in colors, delicate shades of pink, yellow and green being shown for the buyer to select from. In France it is quite customary to mark the underclothes with the Christian name of the purchaser In embroidery so fine as to resemble handwriting, or if preferred, initial medallions can be bought and ap- pliqued on, and these medallions can also be had In New York to order for 75 cents each. I am sure that T have said before that many young ladies can and do make their own underclothes, and they will ind it very easy to make the organdie flounce petticoats. Last year's silk petticoat can be utilized for this purpose, and the de- tachatle flounce can be easily added. I decidedly recommend the use mnu;;:ad Va;:‘mclannu lace 0:;:‘!:-:: trim: ng, as U ashes than almost any ot — s