The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 23, 1905, Page 11

d has found kitchen. "To her delight, g she stretches S. every whit ten her in he a deH\ ai ing, h to make i sort of struggle, ense in making her ncomfortable and unhapp: Asl ng as she's happy and contented I wo der whether it really is worth \\h‘ e bothering over her and trying to ake her other than a hopeless non- itity. She really doesn’'t want to be thing else, and it takes a tremen- s amount of hammering and infinite patience to break down the barrier of supreme satisfaction and stupid apll- with which she has surrounded * elf. cnange, and then 1 peck of tr Iternative— with such But she has ety and slowly and again, ly, help- the least r being any- with a host of others: s girl, good Lord, de from iver us. (O a0 ¢ Answers to } } Correspondents 4 MOTHER Frames).—The; Freshe: g Up Gilt are a number of ways t frames. , Gi ‘to suit yours sive e If frame per- with turpentine > it. Try it and buy ng the gilt. tongh itp & $arue it hgs been an e haps a cloth moi will sufficient see before COUNTRY (Pongees). — Yes, pon- gees_are being used this summer. though ‘linens are being shown every- where and promise to do away with the silk to a certain extent. Of course the yare not always as appropriate, as the pongee, though some of them are s0 elaborate_and so stunning that they can be wopfl at any. time. ZULU (Rubber Shirts).—If you are ng to walk your flesh off you had better invest In a rubber shirt and walk in it. It Is made for this pur- pose and is warranted to make vou perspire very freely. In walking. do not drink any water, for this adds to your weight again and your walk will be of no avalil. KITTY (Perspiration).—People . who perspire excessively should never neg- lect a daily bath. After this rub the parts affected with peroxide of hydro- gen. This may not prevent the cause itself, but it will do away with the un- pleasant odor. will help this a great deal, too. Use a powder puff and use it freely, for it will do you no’harm. IDA J. (Beads).—Beads of all sorts and descriptions are being used these days in the shape of a necklace, 8o do ,not hesitate to wear. a-pretty nrlngdt they look well with your frock,, many queer stones are bems‘%ied Any soft face powder’ m 01)'0)05503)) - ~ereased and, pumpoled. with which the scallop has been cov- ered about ten ar fifteen minutes before serving and a!low the top to brown. .. ABOUT.._ . CLQEHES HA " {Mina).—Of course your gowns Buy a number ot NoMe« hangers and use them for yo s @nd wraps; they will keep out’ ’mb writtkles and will economize your cloget space as weil. Get a few yards of inexpensive figured or plain silk, -three or-four bolts of satin rib- bon to match (one inch wide) and a few ounces of sachet powder. Take the ordinary wooden hangers, such as vou can buy cheap, and pad the wood- en shoulder with a thick layer of cot- ton sprinkled with sachet powder and tie in »place with a white cord. To make the cover .will be required a piece of silk 12x21 inches. Run the raw edges together, turn under the ends, shir and tié with a ribbon, hav- ing a frill of the silk project about an inch and a-half beyond the ends of the wood. - Wind’the wire hook of the banger with a piece of the silk and ‘Photos by Stanford Studio, silk. Make it soft and fluffy ‘and trim it with quantitles of lace and the result will be most satisfactory. A deep cream dotted net with a broad shoulder effect is always dainty and it serves a double purpose, for it can be worn to'a luncheon, to the theater or for gn ordinary dinner. SADIE . (Fabrics).—Crepe de chines are to be worn more than ever. They have always been very popular, but are to be so more than ever. Besides this, there are some new changeable silks, satin in finish, and they are to be worn for shirt waist suits and for smart afternoon frocks. The Eastern and Paris buyers tell us that black i to he the coler and that nothing else is to really count. Be that as it mav, it remains that black mousselines and messalines are coming In in great quantities &nd there are the lovellest sort of open work trimmings and in- sertione that are made for this very purpose. E. B F. (Hardwood Floors).—Be quite sure you cleanse the floor thor- oughly. Put the wax just as it comes in the.can in hot water to soften it a litile. Put a little of the wax on a woolen cloth' and rub into the boards, rubbing one board at a time. Let the ‘floor rest for a time and then go over it with a heavy brush until the sur- face is smooth and polished. "~ Pin a woolen cloth over the brush and go over the floor again. Remember all the rubbing must be done with the grain ot,ghg,woad and there.must be no m-, left. on _the floor., .fimr"“- Dbetter' to purchase the i’n.x I knew a girl who caught the listless these days and.so inexpensive are they “ready-for use,-thomgh .you. can-~make aabit when ghe was yet In the grammar that I think you ¢ould manage to buy .it. by~ dissolving heol. She didn’t want to help'about some dainty trinket:that would bes a4 the house, she didn’t want to study, 2.4, in fact, she didn’t want to do any- Qiing useful, sensible or practical. VWhen her mother couldn't persuade sort of a waist for evening wear is the meal that is left from he to go to the high school she decided fashioned of net over g sheer China dinner. both pretty and smlceable. DAISY (Waists).—The daintiest one; & t\ll:penfie: M.7A.'J. (Turkey Scallop). —This 18" one of the best ways I know to use a turkey of wax-m SHE SLIPS DOWI INTO HER CHAIR 7O FINVD A HLEAD REST. & the bones and chop fine. Put nlenty of bread crumbs on' the bottom of a well-buttered dish and moisten it with a little milk. Next put a layer of the turkey with some of the dressing d mu- piéces™of bustter, gl over it. ough salt snd,peppa% ‘Add al- an: “rows” of turki dress| and bread crumbs, until_ ymfl"-uvbly‘.‘:‘!‘; exhausted ‘and ! pou: . -ughflxg m;',o’gq_x!‘lt.b Th;%‘g u follows:: 0. ta pou s -of ‘milk, one melt:d butter, Btle from one-half to.three- finish with a bow of the ribbon tled around the middle of the shoulder and base ‘of the hook. When completed and hung you will be delighted, for it teresting will make tr’::.y !:x::t !':;un hresd cl w en:in color “?n perfume, * A< there are h in: your " ily,” each one conl the. hx.nsen! she; uges c u: _her f: ‘shagde”of_silk and 'l’D CLL'AN mu!me (G F. M). little salt, and cracker No matter what the size or quality of a rug it is a serious mistake to shake Remove all the meat from quarters of an hour. Remove the plate it by the end to beat it free from dust. S#xE FozDs MER HANDS ./4 YO Loox's . two" Trie force required to!srasp i and“the sharp snap ahd je ply ruinéus -to the binding an furthermore, in 2. short time the will be torn from the wa at the cormers and the p is grasped in_the hands appearance of the rug as \\-‘l as short- its period housekeeper ywho p on knowing ‘how. tc keep fresh for years never s hem cléan by spreading out-on ficor and sweeping them thor- won bhoth - ’sides, -with a. soft, 1 _'1’hen -she goes’ove 1 times with a earpet sweeper, which t free from dust by emptying the p$ frequiently. 'Any, rugs which enhard wear,and’ are - Very’ dusty are- hung<on ‘g Jre-and Mghty with a smail whip. 'On sweep- every ‘rug is looked over for s reaks and every lpose corner, no matter how .small,- is promptly mended with linen - caypet thread and wools if o cn requires. If grease spots are discovered they are cleaned with tepid water and household ammo- nia in the proportion of half a tea- spoonful to a_ quart of water. Scrub- bing the spot lightly, wetting the rug as little as pesgible and hanging in the sun té dry is the method. Never use seap .that is coarse and rank; if soap must be used select a refined sort. THE NIGHTLY TOILET (Elsie).— The busy woman who hurries into bed without making a thorough toilet is making a serious mistake. After a weary day spent in a ceaseless round of duties, the very idea of further ex- értion seems distastful, and vet it is just such women who stand in greatest need of the in orating i fiuences of the nightly care. A trial of a week awill convince the most skep- tical that an hour spent in preparing the tired body for rest will yield more lasting results in the way of good than an extra hour in bed in a dfsheveled state. First brush the hair thoroughly to dislodge dust and dandruff. then massage the scalp for flve or ten min- utes with the finger tips. Brush the hair again gently, brald it rather loosely and -pin up out of the way whilé bathing the face and neck. For this bath use plenty of warm water and a bland soap, finishing with a cool rinse and an application of cold cream if the skin seems dry or rough. ‘To relieve the tired feet indulge in a ‘warm foot bath; there is nuth!ng equal to it to soothe the tired nerves, espe- cially if it be accompanied bv gentle friction. The hands demand special consideration. Trim the nails neatly and if the skin is rough or stained. lemon juice will remove the stains and tend to whiten the skin. Rinse the juice off and anoint the hands with the a good cold cream. Of course the dainty woman will not neglect to brush her teeth the last thing before retiring. The julce of a sweet oransze will be refreshing and act/as a cor- rective if one is inclined to biliousness. but do not drink hot chocolate nor eat eolid foods just before retiring. If one wishes ‘the body may receive a thor- ough soap and water bath, but this should not be taken at night more frequently than twide a week as a rule. THE OBNOXIOUS CROW'S FEET (M. H. J.).—When crow’s feet and the kindred wrinkles about the eyslids appear, lose no time in giving them attention in the form of massage, to strengthen and exercise the weak mus- cles, and a reliable cream to facilitate the buflding up of the wasting tissues. The. treatment used in eradicating these lines will also prove very bene- ficial to the eyesight, strengthening, as they will, the surrounding muscles and the nerves. of the eyes. Great care must_be used in giving the massage, as. haphazard methods will do mare harm than good. After bathing the face thoro: ly rub cocoa butter or any reliable skin food freely into the deep wrinkles around the eyes. Begin at the inner corner of the eye in a motion outward to the temple. The pressure should be light and the mbvement rather slow or it may irri- tate the eyelid. Contiue for five min- utes, repeating about twenty times. Close the -eyes, then place the tips of again at Inuer gorner or the eye and:draw lightly~ the - eymn ou tly- over ‘the tamyle. ‘this will greatly mhe'l, a drooping upper lid. Bwt this: e eral times with three. fingers so tha' the third will come below the eya. To eradicate the crow's feet at the corner of the eyes, cover the finger tips with and thems-seva perform a eir- particular to i+ this out depre be'h&ld firm w around the thus pullink in with the ri MODERN SOCIAL USAGES (An- na L.).—t'is never good form to speak flippantly of established social customs, for it stamps a person as lacking In goad breeding. Further, - punctilious people are apt to observe suchi bad form and not likely to forgive your pan When a person enters so- ciety she pect to peyform faith- fully the manifold duties, making due apologies for unavoidable omissions when necessary. If she'is fiot" willing to. follow; such lines, sooner or later-she willpay ‘the price in seeing her erst- while ' frié drift away. Pubctdality and attention to-details.compose the 6il whith MKeeps social wheels moving Never neglect t@ pre- making a first Servants are apt to confuse and it is very awkward s to be compelled to- asic caller. Always have your street and house namber clearly engraved on the lower right hand cor- ner of your visiting card and the ‘'days at home™ on the lower left-hand" cor- ner of the card. It is not necedsary to your card each time you call on hate friends, although it is always courteous to do so. When fruit and lowers are sent by friends to a person who is 1ll, a member of. the family should acknowledge the gifts. When the recipient is recovered a polite note of thanks should be sent to each per- son who was kindly attentive. An/n- vitation to luncheon or dinner demands an immediate reply in the negative or affirmative. This is imperative and is due to the hostess so that she. may know how to order the covers. Never accept an inv n in the hope' that you may get there at the: eleventh bour. Late arrivals or.vagant .chairs at a feast are hardly conducive to’the gserenity of a hostess. TO MAKE A SHIRT WAIST (Elea- nor).-Mt is comparatively easy to learn to make a shirt waist if you will begin right. To obtain the correct bust measure is the first step.. Pass a tape around the body, about three inches below the armpits, overghe shoulder blades and the fullest part of. the bust. Draw the tape up. moderately tight and make a note.of the &xaect measurement. Should your. meaSure- ment be, for example, 384 Inches, se- lect a 34-inch bust pattern. as i§ can readily be let out to make up the slight difference, while if the next standard size, 36, was selected, it would be too large in many parts for a bexinnmer to manipulate. Sélect a paper pattern of rellable manufacture to correspond with the bust measure. A perfectly plain shirt waist closed with a center box plait with bishop * sleeves com- pleted by a straight band cuff, ‘with slight fullness gathered in‘the fronts at the neckband is very sirfiple to make but difficult enough for the novice to begin with. Read the directions for making and cutting which accompany the pattern and especidlly notice whether seam allowance is made on the pattern and how much. The best material to experiment: with is”firm striped gingham. I mention this par- ticulatly, bécause the , fabric has body enough ‘to prevent pulling out at the seams or stretching. aid the stripes are very helpful in guiding a beginner in cutting accurately with the correct thread of the fabric, a very important part of the work. Briefly, the correet method of cutting is always to place the front edge of the froant of waist pattern next to the selvage, length- wise of the“goods, the -back edge of back and yoke, if any, toa lengthwise fold, the sleeves with line of lensthwise perforations placed lengthwise of goods and cuffs and neckband. either aross- wise or lengthwise. Take up the box plait in the edge of right front and turn under the edge of left fromt for a hem. Jain-the seams according.to the notches, taking up the seam:allaw- ance as indicated on the pattémn. gath- er the slight fullness at the neck in fronts—if any—try on and make any needful alterations after lapping the box plait over the hems-in edge of le’t front. Baste one sleeve together. set in the armhole and make alterations. if necessary, in both sleeves hefors stitching. . Gather the fillness a2t the waist line ‘im the ‘back and fronts. The sent’ your card when call. ~exact width ‘of the. back at-the walst line, between the, seams, should : be about -nine- and.a. half inches when the waist measur‘-—-zs laches. “The gathefe'may be stayed permanently by siltching a tape underneath: hem the ed:' and close to fronts with buttons buttonholes,