The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 18, 1904, Page 6

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. s shabby,” g womar look Iy patted skirt It be neat and jays of ex- to herseif well dressed does not ketful upply of tiny frag- at this MME. YALE'S Almond Blossom OMPLEXION .... CREAM GREATEST TOILET LUXURY MADE Cleanses, whitens skin. softens, purifies, and beautifies the Soap and water only cleanse superficially. Mme. Yale says: A lttle Almond Blossom Complexicz Cream should Be spplied every time the face end hends are washed. It removes the @ust, soot, grime, smut sad smulige from the interstices of the skin and makes the surface smooth as velvet. A daily necessity at home and abroad; a treasure when traveling by land and water, or when on an outing of any kind, and particu- larly prized at a seaside or moun- tain resort. Protects the skin from cutting winds, burning rays of the sun and every injurious ef- fect of the clements. Prevents and cures abnormal redness of the nose or any part of the face, and that purplish hue due to ex- posure to cold, also . chapping, chafing, cold sores. fever blisters and all irritation of the skin. It is the greatest kmown specific for burns; takes the fire out more quickly than anything else, soothes. heals and prevents scars and suppuration. Indispensable for use of infants and every mem- ber of the household. An exqui- site natural beautifier. A grateful application after shaving. Excel- jent for massage purposes. Now in two sizes. Mme. Yale's Almond Blossom Complexion Cream is now sold in fwo sizes by OWLDRUGCO. (Both Stores) 1128 Market Street 80-82 Geary Street At special price of 40c and 80c ®eason of the year when the very alr permeated with the spending spirit 2 the windows show such tempting fabrics and such dainty little acces- sories of all sorts and descriptions. The absolutely essential thing for the girl who spends much of her time walking is a durable trotting suit, and, while it should be serviceable in tex- ture, short in length and of a cold® that will not show the dust and wear and tear, it should always be pretty. In fact, just as smart as it is possible to get it. Fortunately for all of us, the rainy day skirt is a thing of the past, and a very dim and distant past, that But since cloudy weather togs are as present as ever and will continue to be as long as the winds and clouds conspire against us, it be- hooves every one to do a heap of thinking and to buy with cloudy weather in mind. Thanks to Dame Fashion, really is not quite as bad as she is made out to be, there are an endless variety of suits provided that may be worn on rainy days without sacrific- ing one’'s good looks in the slightest and without sacrificing one’s comfort, either, but they must be constructed just so or they do not bear the im- press of style. And the beauty of these gowns is that they are fashioned in such a way that they can be worn for many other occasions. They make good shopping costumes; they are splendid for a morning’s promenade, and they are quite good enough for informal calls. Indeed, it is difficult «w discover a dividing line between calling and cloudy weather apparel and that is the principal reason why every girl should always have a hand- some two-piece suit hanging in her closet ready to be donned at a min- ute’s notice. Of _course, such a costume calls for a nobby hat, and it goes without say- ing that it should be of the serviceable kind. It should not be too large nor yet too small, for one is not the best of taste and the other is a difficult problem to keep from getting awry. There is an English make of hat that is just the very thing, for it manages to look well whether it is tilted or straight and even in the eagerness of 2 shopping tour it always looks digni- fied and remarkably fit. Almost any sort of a plain waist, whether it be of cotton, linen or silk, is in good taste and nearly always pretty, for there is such an abundance of material and such a quantity of colors that one may close one's eyes and grah blindly and get something tremendously smart. The trimming comes in with the neckwear and the belts, for they form such an essential part in the costume these days that under no circumstances should they be left out. Belts, let me say right here, are divided into a number of classes. And when one says a belt, nine times out of ten a belt is the last thinz on earth that is meant. More often than not it is a girdle or stom- acher, or even a very wide back and a narrow front. In fact, a belt is no longer a' belt, but anything that chances to come from the nimble fin- gers of the ingenious. Here is a belt that dresses up a plain waist to such an extent that it scarce- Iy knows itself: Begin by buying three yards of satin ribbon five inches wide. Pin one end of the ribbon securely to the front of your belt to keep it from slipping. Now begin and wind the ribbon tightly about your waist, gradually increasing the width of the girdle. Finally pin the loose end tightly and invisibly and you will have as fashionable and as girlish a girdle as you can desire. Or, at who /AT =N BY Mabncr Moork fiefidcf of’ ¢ cfiedwq,{, well again, if the buckle idea especially ap- peals to you cut the silk and insert al- most any sort of a fastening at the narrowest point and lo and behold you are not only very presentable, but very much in the style as well. Dull browns and - impossible steel grays are colors that are undeniably serviceable, but also atrociously homely. The girl who manages on very little money need not Teel that red pipings here or a dash of crimson there are denied her, and certainly no harm is done if she puts on a dashing leather belt and stock to match and ventures forth when the sky is a dull lead and everything on earth has taken on a forlorn, gray aspect. Clever is the girl who consults her mirror as to the most becoming color and then wears it to the exclusion of all others. Take red or blue, for in- stance. Both are solid tones and they are always willing and ready to lend themselves for all occasions. The trotting length suit is blue, the crepe de ‘chine afternoon frock is blue, and blue is the color of the sole evening gown. Beits, ribbons, hats, gloves and the thousand and one frills and fur- belows are of necessity blue, and there never comes a time when any of them fight and positively refuse to be worn the same day. The crepe and the point d’esprit are fashioned to go over the same lining; and who is ever the wiser? The dainty hat, made in a picture type, is of a silk braid trimmed with a bit of foliage, and it, as well, serves its double purpose. In fact, everything helps in this matter of economy, and her ladyship is able to dress appropriately without knowing how she manages it herself. The daintiest little hand frills help to transform a plain suit into rather an elaborate calling costume. Of course, they are lovely when made of a sheer muslin and trimmed with lace, but, alas and alack, they are not overly ser- viceable and were not intended for the tub. But Dame Fashion fixed that part of it by dressing up yellow and cream mulls, and they are not only fetching when tucked and frilled, but are not afraid of the wind and bad weather, and come out of a drenching rain quite as good and as new as ever. ¥ There is no use denying the fact that Ogoe helr b’ooK Ofld the woman who gives both time and attention to her toilette can manage on wonderfully little and present a good front in the bargain. If her closet is destitute of a charming gown she calm- ly sits down and waits for a dull, dreary day and then, arrayed in all armor, sallies forth to war. And call- ing in one’s cloudy weather togs on a dull, disagreeable day isn’t a half-bad secret to possess, by the way. At least the dress is appropriate, and a cheerful, smiling face is all that is required to complete a decidedly fetching picture. Of course, with such gowns there go hats, and hats that are well worth glancing at a second time, too. There is a splendid waterproof taffeta to be had these days, and when it js fashioned of a dull red, or even black, trimmed with a smart chou at the side, it adds more than a little to even the smartest of the smart utility dresses. The brim of this hat, by the way, is of the floppy order, and it is heavily stitched with silk, either in the same color or to match the rest of the costume. The custom of wearing one's old clothing when it looks like rain has brought many a person to grief. It is bad in any case. It may be the.part of wisdom to save one’s best and pret- tiest, but one never feels entirely at home in some shabby old thing that has been ressurected from the depths of the grab bag. If by any chance the sun comes out and it is warm and bright, it is decidedly uncomfortable and annoying in the least to be found in battered and tattered clothes, and even if it does rain, one never has the satisfaction of being neat and trim. “Yon can stay at home,” you say. ‘Well, not alwavs, and there are scores of times when engagements are made in fair weather and the clerk treats you very shabbily. Even a coat, right up to style, which can be put on and - worn * anywhere, - irrespective of sud- den changes, is far better than an old sult, for it covers a multitude of sins and slways creates a splendid impres- sion. And after all, impressions of the favorable sort are what every woman on the face of the green globe is striv- ing for. The actress, out of an en- gagement, spends her last dollar on a it hat that she may look her best. The office girl spends her pennies on neat neckiear that she may show those in authority that she understands the eternal fitness of things. Impressions, impressions, all the world over, for while the first glance does not mean everything it means enough to keep the most of us busy in order that we may not be the losers thereby. The woman who wants to own a wardrobe that will make a good show- ing for a small price need not be with- out one for lack of materials from which to select. On the contrary, some of the prettiest fabrics are the most inexpensive and the smartest designs may be seen in gowns that were built for hard, every day wear. Answers to Correszgndent ELSIE (Tooth Wash).—There are any quantities of tocoth and mouth washes that are excellent, and it is really difficuit to tell you of one that is better than another. However, here is a pure one and you can very easily make it yourself: Put together in a mortar one-half ounce each of pulver- ized borax and strained honey; then add gradually qne pint of pure alcohol and one-half ounce each of gum myrrh and red sandalwood. Let the whole stand in a large-mouthed glass bottle for two weeks. Shake the bottle occa- sionally. Pass through a filtering pa- per and it is ready for use. MRS. M. (Cranberry Frappe).— Try this receipt and see if it is not better than your old one: Add one tea- cupful of boiling water to one quart of cranberries. Boil until soft, pass through. a strainer, return to-the fire and add enough sugar to sweeten. Cook until reduced mgre than half, then set aside to cool. Before freezing add the juice of one large lemon, also a syrup made of one quart of boiling water and two cupfuls of granulated sugar cooked until rich and syrupy. Stir all together 2nd freeze rather stiff. Serve with the roast turkey. H. D. C. (Greetings).—I certainly would not take the trouble to speak to any man who was not polite enough to lift his hat when he meets you. Making a motion toward his head is rot sufficient and I would not permit it for a moment. The hat should come off the head entirely and it is only right for you to insist on this courtesy being extended to you. CURIOSITY (Hairdressing).—It is a difficult problem for a girl of sixteen to dress her hair appropriately these days unless she braids it and ties it up with a broad ribbon. Certainly you are too young to comb it high and too old to let it hang down pig-tail fashion in a brald. A pretty way is to part it in the middle and then braid each half of it. Bring the braids closely together at the nape of the neck, cross it and draw it up so that it will encircle the head, and fasten one under the other. This is called a Dutch style, and a very quaint old style it is, too. Of course, if your hair is not long or reasonably thick you will have little or no success with this fashion, but if you can_wear it at all 1t probably will be more than becoming to you. EMMA C. (Stories).—All stories submitted to editors should be plainly written, and typewritten if possible, and do not make the mistake of writ- ing on both sides of the paper, for it is most annoying for those who are compelled to handle it. Number each page plainly and do not fasten them together in any way. It is far better Cold Water and to address an envelope and stamp it so that your manuscript may be re- turned to you if it is not available, for then you will learn your fate in a short time. At the end of your story put your se and address and do be careful to have it plain, for the editor is too busy to werry over you and woes. Yes, you can duplicate a story if you ish, but in that event be sure to mark it for a certain date and write ‘“re- leased Jan. 4" Then the editor v ung tand it is not exclusive and that it is not to be used until on or after that dat Of course such a story ne' brings nuch as an exclusive on though if ¥ sell it to mean more in t not handled in tell you more abo to know, but I to know about s u fortunate enough to papers it will Books are : way. 1 will if you wish u wanted (Ch Gift).—Pr and lieve I Get a pretty tty Appro- slippers are priate, too, but I d get them too elab slipper and trim it yourself. For instance, get some narrow ack velvet ribbon at it many stra four piec with a large r ly over the instep. not woul ate to suit on (Red X Y. Z Here are two recnpes that are good for granulated Yellow oxide of mercury, one rose water ointment, one-half apply to eyelids morning and night. A good wash for inflamed eyes cam- is as follows: B x, two grains; phor water (not of camphor) two ourices. Drop a little of the solu- tion into the eyes two or three times a day and bathe the lids with the mix- ture. spirits g Health § NE of the most interesting de- velepments in modern medical science is the certain proof of the . immense importance of cold water to health, both as a rem- edy for and a prevention of disease. But cold water should not be con- founded with ice water; that is almost as disastrous to stomach, heart and liver as a liquor or drug habit. Cold water means the temperature of spring water ‘of an October morning, just a crisp freshness about it, but no shock. ,For drinking purposes water should be cooled in an icebox, just bottled or canned, but never with ice in it, which is unhygienic as well as unesthetic. Physicians declare that very few Americans drink enough water, that the bad digestion, bad complexion and bad nerves of our city and town people are largely due to the result of not drinking enough cold water. The system demands its full allow- ance of clear, cool, natural fluid in or- der to do its work properly, and breakfast, coftee, luncheon chocolate and dinner cocktails are not only a bad substitute, but worse than none. When the body is thirsty it is call- ing for water; at least half a pint be- fore breakfast, another before going 1o bed and three half pints during the day, preferably not at meals. It is an excellent plan every morn- ing and night before drinking water to rinse the mouth with a solution of warm water and borax. Just a pinch of powder in half a tumbler of water. It gives the water a deliciously fresh taste, besides sweetening the mouth, hardening the gums and cleansing the teeth. A course of this cold water treat- ment is worth trying if just for the sake of a hearty appetite and rosy cheeks. To get the best value of your effort you should accompany the cold water drinking with a daily morning cold bath. The bath should be taken before the drink, so that there is net the faint- est chance of arresting even the simple process of digesting water. A cold bath is only a success with an empty stomach. > While the water is running in the tub prepare for the slight shock of the first plunge by taking long breaths at an open window. Wrapped in a wool bath gown, there will be no danger of catch- ing cold, and two or three minutes long, slow inhaling and exhaling fresh air will start the circulation so that there is no hesitation about a cold wa- ter bath, rather a sense of enjoyment of it. But if at the very start you should still be at all semsitive to the straight cold plunge, stand at the edge of the tub, lean over and dash cold water over the face, arms, neck, chest and throat. Drv thoroughly with a crash towel and plunge in first one leg and then the other. After a week of this sort of tempor- izing you will be able to take the straight plunge. That is of course if the room is warm. A cold bath in & cold room may be fine heroism for athletic boys, but it is more than likely to prove dangerous to the average woman who has not much power of re- action. The daily tepid bath usually taken by women in winter may be luxurious and cleansing, but it is no substitute for the health giving power of the cold water. It is the sting of the cold that starts the blood coursing through lungs and heart, that warms the hands and feet and sends a fine color to the cheeks. A cold bath should be taken quickly, always followed by a crash towe! rub and always in soft water. Much of the value of the cold bath is lost if the water is hard, the pores are clogged rather than opened, it is im- possible to dry the skin quickly, and it is left with a clammy sensation that is depressing. It also makes sensitive skin rdugh, and so coarsens it. _ Where rain®&vater can be had nothing is better. It is an emollient as well as a stimulant to the cuticle, but in town and city the water supply is artificial and it is the exception to find it soft. Fortunately hard water is not an ir- revocable misfortune. The worst min- eral water can he softened with pure borax. Two tablespoonfuls of pure borax will soften a tub of water to the mellowness of rain water. And In addition to its beneficial effects in the water it has medicinal proverties that actually stimulate the action of the skin and whiten it. Jn fact there is no simpler, more economical, really Pn]oynblc way or keeping or improving one’s health than this daily conscientious use of coid wa- ter. It will actually cure purely nerv- ous indigestion, is the best an- tidote for hysteria and is the finest honest cosmetic in the world.