The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 6, 1904, Page 8

THE N FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. ’ When future Emperor, Cecelia will be gowned in historic laces, but the prettiest gowns of all lie in the she weds Germany's being ess. numerous trunks now packed for her Royal Higt Shirt waists and shirt suits and wonderful long cloaks to be worn for day and dinner. Paris, Ireland, England and Russia ransacked to supply the newest fashions for the coming bride. wais cure her her shirt waists. The firm which has tk contract in hi will send the first epring shipmenis of these goods. And 1 the Uni ates she wi procure shoes. All her dainty house d the Princess has the foot ¢ the R {ans—wi come from the United tes. Here aleo she will procure her pretty art nouveau s d she will get her belts here urely a long distance to come for one’s trousseau, but nowhere else ¢ find one’s own specialties Then from Londor or-made G ncess will . All the beautifully fitted cloth gowns will come from London. And from Paris she will get her hats. Her embroider- fes will come from Japan and her lin- ens from India. She will wear the laces of Ireland and France. And her evening gowns will be made in Vienna, that home of the artistic dressmaker. For her trimmings she will visit Ber- lin, an4 particularly for her bead work. Here she will get all the pretty little odds and ends which are of such great procure her ta essistance in the desizning a hand- some gown, and which the women of Yserlin make so deftly. And with these the Princess will manage fine a trousseau as can in the wide, wide world. There is a story whispered about that the Kaiser, anxious to secure a handsome outfit for his future daugh- ter-in-law, offered to sct aside a sum for her trousseau. But this was firmly though kindly refused by the Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, mother of the Princess, on the ground that it was wholly unnecessary. The Duchess, by the way, is one of the handsomest women in Europe and by far the best dresser in royal circles. As a Russian Grand Duchess she was known for the magnificence of her wardrobe. It was she who conceived the idea of having one gown made in each capital of Eu- rope. And this is being carried out faithfully, each modiste making a gown which ghall be ideal. The Paris gown is @ flufly creation in pink and black, to secure as got together with countless bands of white velvet ribbon no wider than a straw. Her Trousseau Is of Blue. The Princess is immensely fond of laces chatted a Paris couturiere to vour correspondent, the other day, in a smart “Maison” on the Rue de la Paix. You will notice thi out and she spread upor her slender fingers a bit of lace fine as a webbing. “We shall take this fine lace and ap- ly it to an antique lace bolero. And, 1, we shall set a flounce of real point underneath. It is all in- cream and it is to be worn over a handsome gown of turquoise blue ““The Princess will not have many ey >wns, for life in the German will be ver: quiet and her i} will wear neglige=s and ses rather than pretty t dr party gowns. the Princes: of is seau ly all in blue, chatted the modiste, own of navy blue cloth from out “She selected mpliment to the Ka ite color it is. The Kaiser loves blue in and Princess Cecelia hs ordered that it be the keynote to her trou 1. One lovely gown all of blue spotted net over blue silk, while the bodice is in blue taffeta, with net over it “The Princess, who is very ung, will wear her first trained dresses after her marr . One charming carriage dress is in military blue, trimmed with pipings of Oriental silk. There is a vest of Oriental goods and, for a coat, the Princess will wear a handsome Louis XIV coat with long tails and handsome stiff cuffs lined with scarlet. “Many of her gowns have a touch of scarlet. It may be only in the buttons, or in the facings, or in the pipings, or perhaps there is the slightest touch of scarlet in the lining, visible only when the skirt is lifted or when walking. But it is a fact that the scarlet note is seen in almost everything. “The Princess wears the fashionable English seven-eighths coat. This coat is not so fashionable in America, where a shorter coat is more to the liking of the active American girl. But in France and England and in Germany it is the coat of the year. “What will the Princess do in the matter of sleeves?” you ask. “Most of her gowns are made with high shoulder puffs slightly modified in various ways. One of them has the puft caught around the arm by a ribbon tied in a bow. Another has the puff tucked and brought in tightly to the arm. And another has lace set into the puff, making it less pronounced. Her Laces and Neck Ruffies. “Will the puff sleeve return? I am often asked. Most certainly! “You ask regarding the number of gowns of the bride of the Emperor-to- be. Well, the English royal family have been generous to the Princess and so have the Russians, and it is likely that she will take into Germany the handsomest trousseau ever given a roy- al bride. Her beautiful Russian mother has sent to Russia requesting the Czar to send her the laces, which are hers blue ot all its shade; by inheritance and which have been, since her marriage, locked in the safe in the vaults in the Kremlin at Mos- cow. “The laces, which are old, will cause a lace revival, for they are the heavy, picturesque laces of Russia, showing wonderful coats of arms, interwoven, and strange scenes with little land- scapes and animals all wrought by hand in the thread of the lace. i ‘"Why does Cecelia come to Paris for her trousseau? So the Berlin modistes demand. But the Paris dressmakers re- ply that she comes here to purchase certain parts of it that cannot be pur- chased elsewhere. “Her wonderful flying neck ruffies, made of silk muslin and of chiffon, are all bought here. And she has ordered several fur necklaces, one being a con- ception in silk ruffles and sable tails. She has also bought a fur necklace made of ermine with a reverse side of mink. But for the most part she has ordered the flying silk ruffle, the big, loose, fluffy thing, which is so be- coming to the throat of any woman, and which thé French, as no one else, know how to make. “One of her handsomest ruffles was made in this very establishment. It had an iridescent effect. Little flounces in dark Dblue were alternated with flounces in white and in gray. And the reverse side was faced with scar- let satin, for it was one of those flat neck ruffles which bind the throat so closely. “It takes a great many modistes to prepare a royal bride. And that is why all Paris and London are in a scurry, for the engagement was a sud- den one, and the wedding comes all too soon from the standpoint of the overworked modiste, ‘“Tell you more? Impossible, madame, for I must hurry away, to superintend the making of a great silk picture hat, all ruffies, to match a great silk neck boa.” And, with an airy wave of the hand, madame disappeared into an in- ner room, where billows of silk ruffles lay upon every chair and littered the ficor. ‘Waists to Be Worn Looser. In the gowns of the royal trousseau, as well as in other gowns, there is one thing very noticeable, and that is seen in the shirt waists. These are made wvery much fuller and larger than they were. The shoulders are as sloping as ever, but the walsts are fuller and that which is a thirty-eight inch bust of this season would have been marked forty inches a year ago. It is largely in the manner of cut- ting. The long low shoulder seam makes the bust fuller and there is a certain shapeliness to the bust which makes the figure seem broader. All the waists have Gibsonian lines and there is less fullness at the belt line and a great deal more across the bust. The coats share this same peculiarity and the newest of the coats are im- mensely broad across the shoulders and full in the arms, while they are tight TR SN | SRS . in the waist and full again in the skirts. But, though it is a season of coats and of severe modes, it is also the sea- son of shirt waists and there are new shirt waist suits to delight every heart. Here is the new shirt waist suit just as it will be seen. It is a winter suit and it is made either of velvet or of soft wool goods. There come fancy wools specially for this purpose and if you want to be smart you will look around until you find a soft wool that will just suit your purpose. The colors from which to choose are pavement gray, granite, London smoke and gun metal gray. Or you can have a blue and, if you so elect, there is navy blue and there are the Roman, Russian, gendarme, cadet and deep sea biues. Any blue is good as to wearing qualities and almost any blue is fash- ionable. In greens one can go into spinach, bottle, invisible, sage and leaf green. And 2s for browns, their name is many —for browns have sprung up more plentifully than the proverbial flowers of May. Seal brown and sorrel brown are used together. But whatever be your . let it be a soft wool. And it smart to choose surface. There thin, pretty, soft camel’s hair goods that are moderate in price and there is all the family of zibelines. O can surely find some- thing in thes r, if une pr to do so, there is alw ge t back upon Fine Materials for Suit Serge and camel's hair, zibeline and broadcloth are ter shirt another materia fancy all very fine for the win- t. A d there is Ana tr s the soft wool goods that lic upon every counter. There is no special name for this goods. It might be a hmere were it a little lighter and it might be a camel's hair were it a little woolier. It is simply a fancy goods and just as pretty as it can be for the win- ter shirt waist suit How to Make Your Own Gown. Now to the m: up of your gown. waist wool as Be sure to make suit- Let the lower part t let it be tight around the hips and full around the foot. The box-plaited skirts are excellent. Let the box plaits be very small all the way around the hips and let them be stitched sht down over the hips and half way to the krees. From the knees let the skirt flare nicely: This is both sensible and fashionable. Let the upper part of your suit con- sist of a shirt waist. It should be made upon the epted shirt wai rather loose in front and ver the back and on the hi waist there should be a coming down just over the hips. the coat can be a lit as a Louis XV coat. a two-piece skirt and Below the little skirt Or e longer, as long The shirt waist suit, when made with skirt like this, very closely re- a coat and skirt suit. And, cold days a washable shirt waist can be worn underneath. Made blue camel’'s hair cloth and cut so a be open at the throat, such a suit is considered one of the smartest of the season. § And, speaking of winter shirt waist suits, one must mention again the new shirt waists that have been made for the royal bride, Princess Cecelia. The , who has just seen her eigh- is devoted to the shirt in waist, and one of her prettiest suits is made of brown broadcloth, with fit- ted skirt and shirt waist. A Louis XV skirt is fitted to the shirt waist. And this costume will be one of the smart- est in the royal trousseau. The New London Coat. All England is wearing the seven- eighihs cloak. It comes almost to the heels and it is made of melton, serge, broadcloth and heavy men’s suiting. It is a masculine looking coat when un- h coat of hite satin lace cov was a loth and the tique silver butt Gray is worn a brown « It was ) wear an old lown be- fore. And the wor 7 is copy- ing him. H s in pave- ment from the chin to the floor. handsome metal but- w gorgeous 3 in Armenian, in Hun- garian and sh plaid Many are the di t s of goods used to trim the gray cloaks and there is no limit to either the color or the variety of material. One handsome gray cloak was trimmed with medallions in red, yellow and blue. What did women do before the Per- sian and other Oriental stuffs came in? 1 they dress?” How did they get 'or cuffs? What did they do for 1 beits, for stocks and ln- ing: for facings and for trimmings? How did they manage to make effective and by what manner of means they contrive the cunning little ffects and the gorgeous appliques which are so much the style this sea- The importation of the Persian stuffs marked a wonderful advance in the ar- ic quality of woman's dress, and ren the domestic manufacturers took it up and outrivaled the foreign makes, ced, the results were fine. One can now at a very little price buy enough handsome silk in the wonder- ntal colors to strap a gown, to pipe it, to trim it with bands and head- ings and to make the neatest of vests and cuffs. Or one can go in more heav- ily and make the gown largely of this material. A woman who is known for her taste in dress is wearing a suit all in pave- ment gray. There is a gray cloth suit with skirt that is tight around the hips and flaring around the foot. Over this falls a three-quarter gray coat, but toned with handsome silver buttons. And, then, there is a pavement gray felt hat, rather floppy In its outlines and trimmed at the side with a bow of black silk. A pair of long gray gloves completes this costume. A very becoming suit is in green serge, strapped with brown silk and trimmed with mink for winter wear. Green and brown make a very smart suit. There is a pretty combination which is becoming very popular. Gray is worn, relieved by dashes of robin red- breast red. The gray coat is faced with this vivid color and a gray felt hat is made lively by gray wings set smartly in the front. For walking up Fifth avenue of a morning when all the world of fashion is out for its constitutional, there come Vvery smart gray feit hats and hats of brown felt. These have large irregular brims and they are untrimmed save for a wing, which is set right in the mid- dle of the front. One very pretty brown hat. turns up in front and is caught .with a wing. But the tailor-made girl is a different creature from former} Once she was the very type of sev ity, while now ¥ Picturesqueness which is fetching, even though : severe as ome w made suit. . A