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AN FRANCISCO CALL, FRIDAY, OCTOBER 14, 190%. L THE SAN FRANCISCOCA Proprictor | JOHN D. SPRECKELS. HN MeNATGHT X OFFIE P MARKFTSTREFTS SAN FRANTZ FRIDAY.. TOCTOBER 14, 1904 OUR HARBOR AND TRADE. tain her commercial pri- res something more than s and visions, will not . upon the pre- t as favorably sit- art overcome the de- yuld have been a wild n the noisome mars ilwaukee, and become akes, but one of the great cities of the i "f i i dvantage of situation to control the - needs amplification of facilities to ese must be provided on the water facilities are ancient, out of date, neet the demand upon them. We are e of the greatest steamers in the ient that these great ships can only i trained and the cost of harging and taking cargo. NCISCO is ambit of the v d anc t, som to them, and i by the difficulties possible. id on to the commerce we have and get the s in si we must increase the facilities of is only one way to do this. The seawall sletion. This requires the making of nearly t of $2,000,000. The facilities added to our will bring in a rental of $60,000 quate berths for the largest ships, with iy and economical handling of car- San in condition to take care of the g co f the Pacific. le State is interested in this improvement. The factor- ts of the State is done in San Francisco. This city . have interdependent interests, which must flourish ie together. One cannot wane and the other wax. They fall together. The retention of commerce by a seaport ires a ceaseless watchfulness. In trade nothing d of c erce is not a chance world. Its de- by plan and design. 1 of business and the commercial organizations of this been foresighted in the matter. of increasing our water by seawall extension. By their urgency the last ted to the voters a proposition to issue bonds for 500,000 required to extend the seawall. This is a loan to the nt, to be repaid out of its revenues, by rentals. It does not he State debt, nor impose any additional tax upon the peo- bonds are a lien on the income of the water front only. The s for the issue and the need of the improvement it will make are certified by both of the political parties of the State. Their con- indorsed the proposition and called on the voters to affirm election next month. The candidates, speakers and com the two parties should not forget the matter, but should racy a feature in their campaign. They control the ity. They reach nearly every voter in the State, and will be impressed by the spectacle of the two rival s agreeing upon a matter of the highest economic importance to State. Let it be made plain that every citizen has a very direct nterest in the building of the seawall. When the Panama canal is built, the all water means of export 1 import to distant markets will favorably affect every producer in ia, provided we have adequate shipping facilities here, other- or the spee Franc OAKLAND'S CASE. wise we must lose instead of gain by the building of the canal. N Oakland paper begs to assure The Call that that city does not A(ieqrc annexation to San Francisco, and is doing quite well go- ng it alone. We are glad of this and have to advise our neighbor to give that fact as wide publicity as possible, to counteract the effect of the bond election. After all, the bonding propositions, except one, received a majority of the votes cast, and that majority is a leaven that ought to cause Oakland to rise. While we think that the city erred in listening to-appeals to prejudice and passion to defeat the improvement bonds, we stand ready to help a recovery irom the bad effects of that act. If Oakland will learn to pull to- gether and will pull wisely, it will not lack friends willing to help. Nothing that may be said now will change the opinion of the iriends of progress, nor reverse their conclusion that a great mis- take has been made. If the city thrive and grow and property ap- preciate in spite of the blunder, it will be evidence of great and in- herent strength, and of capacities that deserve better treatment than sodden and sordid opposition to sewers, schools, parks and more wharfage. Incidentally we may remark that such a city deserves some- thing better in public buildings than a city hall that resembles the shack of a widow whose children have run away with a circus, and a city jail that is condemned by the Board of Health. Still we hope that bad officials will be kept out of the city hall and good citi- zens out of the city jail, and that Oakland will some time wake up and shake herself and put her hat on straight, and appear to the world as the professional beauty she ought to be, friend is kind. and if we have uttered any it is of that sort. A haif the time crazy. This expert should submit a bill of par- ticulars. Western Kansas, in its topography and physical character- istics, does not differ perceptibly from the adjoining portion of GEOGRAPHY AND LUNACY. HISTORY professor in Iowa has informed his class that on Eastern Colorado, and all of its features are extended northward to | Craig. the skipper of the local steamer Western Nebraska. The professor has been in Western Kansas and professes to give the result of his observations. We do not think they are of any value. Neither Western Kansas nor Western Nebraska has furnished any individuals noted for apparent aberration of mind. ¥ In politics Central Nebraska has contributed to public life Mr. Bryan, old Crazy Horse and Stinking Water Jim, all of whom represented the State in Congress, and each one had a fad or a fancy that was strongly influenced by the moon. One of the Western Kansas dis- tricts is represented in Congress by the very level headed Mr. Cal- derhead, an original sound money man, who stands for good, strong | North American common sense. Another district that runs clear 1o Colorado has long kept as its representative in Congress Mr. Reeder, who is an exceptionally sane and able man. § Jerry Simpson and Carrie Nation, Governor St. John, Jennison the Jayhawker and Jim Lane, were all from Eastern Kansas, and if they represented the sanest people of that State the whole coun- try will be surprised. The Iowa professor will have to revise himself fact, are so crowded that economical handling of ‘one must ride behind. The question, The rebuke of a | account of its geography all Western Kansas is more than| “I once saw a young Somali bull that i | | | | ¥ ! . WOLF CAN'T REACH THEM. | i JMETHING neat and simple, without any frills and flying| [ ends, but above all things, neat.” That was the united answer | of half a dozen men to whom there | was put the question, “How do you like to see a girl dress?” says a writer in the Pittsburg Press. They were all men who knew what they were talking about, and whose cpinion was worth paying attention to. There is nothing so pretty and smart on a girl,” said one of them, “as a shirt waist suit. It always looks | so ship-shape and neat.” Of course, you may not all care for shirt waist suits; this is merely men- tioned as an example and suggestion. There are many styles that are equally simpie and neat. You have all heard about Mrs. La- denburg, the beautiful young society woman who is a reigning belle both in this country and in England. We are always reading accounts of her beauty and charm. One night last week a person re- marked, “Do you see that young woman in the white waist? Well, that is Mrs. Ladenburg, the great belle.” S S A S SR S e R R 0 L RO e B L e L D T | hole. The effect is prettier if the plaits MATRIMONIAL RIGHTS. Without inviting discussirn of this thorny question, I may say, writes La- bouchere in London Truth, that my | own opinion is—supposing anybody | wants it—that a husband’s rights are | what he can get. My view of a wife's rights is the same. Whether it is wise for either party to get all that he (or she) can is a question of expediency, to be decided according to circumstances and individual inclination. The govern- ing principle of the :ituation is that when two people ride the same horse therefore, whene--er a conflict of rights arises, is whether the front seat is worth fighting about and, if so, how long and how hard. BULL CHEWS TOBACCO The London News is responsible for ' this: The donkey who was a connois- seur in tobacco must look to his laur- els. “In Aden,” says a correspondent, not only chewed lighted cigarettes but also washed this meal down with haif COPYRIGHT. 1904, BY SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT OF THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL WITH THE NEW YORK EVENING MAIL. > THE BEAUTY OF NEATNESS 4=b She wasn't extravagantly dressed. You all probably have dresses very much on the same order. She wore a pretty, well-fitting cloth skirt, a dainty white wash waist and a white straw hat with pale blue coque plumes. That all sounds very simple, does it not? The costume suited to perfection Mrs. Ladenburg’s earnest, sweet, un- affected face. Her hair was drawn back in soft waves from her brow— no hard, shiny or untidy pompadour disfigured her. Her dress, though simple, was put on with the greatest care. There was not one single conspicuous item about her entire costume. If you would be popular, girls, bear in mind that nothing takes better than simplicity, freedom from affecta- tion and neatness. The beauty of neatness is a beauty that no girl can afford to despise. Some of the present-day fashions are not especially neat, and they hap- pen to be styles that appeal much to the soul of woman. But they are styles that require to be modeled of the very best ma- terial. 3 e DON'TS FOR FALL. Don’t catch cold. Don’t arrogantly pooh-pooh your neighbor because he tells you he is wearing his winter un- derwear, and boast of not having yet done so when you know that you wear the same winter and summer. - Don’t sleep with your head out- side the window if there's a draught. Don't proclaim your habit of never wearing an overcoat when the thermometer is below zero. People will only call you a liar behind your back. Don’t kick at the janitor for be- ing dilatory in supplying steam heat. He is to be mollified, not persecuted. Go and play freeze- out somewhere else. Don’t curse Thanksgiving and Christmas days. Granted they are nuisances, yet a cheerful out- ward aspect has been known to meet with pecuniary guerdon.— Town Topics. a pint of neat rum. ‘Tommy’ (the bull's name) was the property of Captain Falcon. He was liked on board and was, despite his dissipated habits, a great favorite with the native crew.” Tartan tweeds are quite the latest autumn tailor-mades in blue and green, brown and yellow, and quiet mixtures. ————— A RETORT COURTEOUS. — 3 A number of Roman bricks, bear- ing the stamps of the Tenth and Thir- teenth Legion, have been discovered in the course of some excavations in the Graben, the chief street in Vienna. ————————— THE SMART SET = BY SALLY SHARP. i The Century Club rooms were filled ito overflowing yvesterday afternoon | with society’s youth and beauty, whose 1 interest in the welfare of the San Francisco Maternity Hos- pital was unmistakable. The re- [cep(inn—rooms and auditorium were thrown together-and the assemblage of 1200 women, beautifully gowned, was a picture to delight the eye. Forty tables | were provided with score cards; twen- ty-five were devoted to seven-handed | . ;. euchre, the others given over to bridge whist. Animation scene, over which the patronesses pre- | sided so gracefully, Interest in the game waxed with the afternoon, until a late hour preclaimed the following win- !ners: In the euchre games there were six prizes, won by Mrs. W. H. Mills, Miss Cotton, Mrs. Hopkins, Miss Bor- | rowe, Mrs. James Alva Watt and Mrs. Judge MacFarlane. Those of the bridge whist games were allotted to Mrs. Tril- ley, Mrs. Lund, Miss Minnie Martin, Mrs. Edwin Newhall, Mrs. Van Wyck and Mrs. L. L. Baker. The entire super- vision and management which brought so successful an outcome, socially and financially, were in the control of these | charitable women: Mrs. Frederick Hewlett, Mrs. John Casserly, Mrs. Tul- | | loch, Mrs. James A. Cooper, Mrs. James Robinson, Mrs. Pelham Ames, Henry Foster Dutton, Mrs. Adam An-| drew, Mrs. J. K. Wilson, Mrs. H. H.| Bancroft, Mrs. Charles W. Slack, Mrs. W. D. Fennimore and Mrs. Harry Gray. To-night the hosnital benefit by | the Fannie Francisca concert, to be| | given at the St. Franci | - Dr. Arnold Genthe wiil soon return to town from his tour through Europe. ! We may expect to hear of a new and | unique collection of curios and bric-a- | | brac, for Dr. Genthe is a connoisseur | 1o these matters. { . | The first important luncheon event of | | the season was given yesterday after-| noon by Mrs. WillianmY G. Irwin in honor of her sister-in-law, Mrs. Richard Ivers of Honolulu. The table, at which ! eighteen guests were seated, was artis- tic in its decoration. The guests were Mrs. Ivers, Mrs. William Hinckley Taylor, Mrs. Robert Oxnard, Mrs. Hen- lighted the en(lre‘ Mrs. ‘{ Mré. Frederick Kohi, ' Mrs. Richa Ivers Jr., Mrs. Samuei Boardman, Mrs Norris Davis, Mrs. J. Downey Har Mrs. Mountford S. Wilson, Mrs. Robe Nuttall, Mrs. Chauncey R. Wias Mrs. Dixwell Hewitt. > oy { Mr. and Mrs. Edgar Peixotto are at the Palace, where Mrs. Peixott ceiving cordial attention from her b band’s many friends, who have ha ed to extend a welcome to the yc i x a . . Mr. and Mrs. William Sanders. their daughter, Mrs. Johnson, have a rived in town from the exposition Johnson will spend a few day before returning to Los Angeles. T Mr. and Mrs. Robinson Reilly Mr. and Mrs. Ashton Potter will s | leave town for a trip through the Bas | and Europe. th and The wedding of Miss Charlotte Moul- der to Charles Carter Nicholls will taka place at the home of wme bride’s par- ents on October 26. Mrs. Corvell, a sis- | ter of Miss Moulder, will be matron of henor and William Wood will serva the groom as best man. A few friends only have been asked to witness the ceremony, which will be performed by Archbishop Riordan. Miss Ruth MeNutt has returned from Santa Barbara. - Misg Beatrice Fife is preparing to entertain her friends extensively this season and soon will be hostess at a tea in her California street home. ? - To-morrow Wigginton Creed will lead to the altar Miss Isabel Hooper. These two young peopie are leaders among the exclusives of Oakland so- ciety and unusual interest is attached to the coming nuptials. Last week Mr. Creed bade good by to his bachelor life at a dinper amid those friends whom Dan F. Belden gathered for the occasion, Harry St. Lawrence Farr, Walter Starr, William G. Cooke. Ro- land Oliver, Dan F. Belden, Dr. Percy Gaskill. . - George Crocker will arrive in San T. Scott, Mrs. R, Schwerin, Mrs. Smith, Mrs. Willlam 8. Tevis, Francisco within the week from New York. When reproduced in poorer fab- —_— e rics they look very fine for the first few wearings, and after that they quickly go to pieces. If, then, you can’t afford the ex- pensive fabrics, why not be content with the more simple fashions and not try to imitate all the frills and puffs and fallals that we see on so many gowns this year? To no one woman in ten is ornate style becoming. Plain, simple lines are always more becoming than broken effects. If you dress to please women you will probably stick to the fussy, elab- orate style, but if you dress to please men you will keep to the simple, more quiet styles. Above all things, men admire neat- this ness. No matter how handsome a shirt waist may be, if it is soiled it has no beauty in a man’s eyes. He would far rather see you in a 98-cent muslin waist that was fresh and clean. Don't forget, dear girls, that if you are pretty it is a shame to mar your beauty by untidiness, and if you are plain you absolutely dare not be un- tidy. 8o, you see, there is no escape. You just must be neat. SHOPPING TRAITS. A London paper quotes a shopgirl as saying that the English woman cangen- | erally be persuac 1 to take this or that whether she wants it or not and that she does not often see that she gets value for her money. The English are also courteous and considerate. It appears that Americans, on the other hand, give the greatest trouble of all; they are afraid of being cheated, they want to make sure before they buy that they could’not get the same thing for less money elsewhere and they are never courteous. As shoppers, it is French women, however, who command | the greatest admiration, we are told. They always know exactly what they want and will take nothing else. ON COURTSHIP. Don’t forget that while you are mak- ing love to a face you will live with a | mind. Before you quarrel always stop to consider whether you can afford it. Promise as much as you can perform, ! and as much more as she would like you to. Love is a disease. See to it that you have an incurable case. Platonic friendship often ends in an aisle—The Twentieth Century Home. Broadtail velvet, which is really a crushed velvet, is one of the coming stuffs for outer wraps. —— A CALL DOWN. PICTURE BONNETS. ! There are some sweet, plump, rosy- faced women, moving down a sunny | slope just the other side of middle life, : who will rejoice exceedingly over the | | new fashion for old-fashioned bonnets. | | They have been yearning for the re- | vival of this pretty headgear and may | now find it in various styles in exhibits | of Paris millinery. | | But this year'’s bonnets are not| | wholly for these peaceful ladies who | walk in pleasant places. Bonnets are | in vogue again for various occasions, | for theaters, for concerts, for visiting, | for all times when a huge picture hat | would seem out of place. | — 'HOW TO FIT A SLEEVE The long shoulders of the moment | sometimes give a lot of trouble to the | amateur dressmaker. The correct way | to fit them is to put the underpart in| | first. Tack the full portion of the| | sleeves into small plaits and make | them perfectly fit the size of the arm- | are loosened after the bolero is fitted, | but if desired they can be left stitched | for a few inches from the armhole. | There are many devices for obtaining the long shoulder effect without actu- | ally cutting the long seam, which is | so @ifficult. For exampre, embroidery | and lace can be arranged so as to have | the points running down over the top of the arm and this will be found very | effective. | leOUT WHITE GLOVES. i The digits are treated to new shades in coverings and the wearing of white gloves is on the wane. They are su- | perseded by very pale gray and light | tans, worn with the modish elbow sleeves, even when the costume is white or of some pale color. One is rather inclined to deplore the passing of the white glove, for in sum- mer or winter they gave such a festive air to a somber toilet and then femi- ninity will have no excuse for the don- ning of slightly soiled gloves. Her old excuse in the case of the white glove was, “Just look, my dear, at these soiled gloves, and it's the second time | I've worn the! This plea was lovely, was convenient, but "tis past. FURS AS TRIMMINGS. 1_ Many cloth and velvet gowns have an flmroducuon of beaver used about the | corsage and sleeves, while one well | known furrier sho a few attractive | long-basqued coats in dyed moleskin, which might easily be mistaken for | sealskin, but with a much more bril- | lant.sheen. The coat was light, warm | and attractive, besides being extremely | becoming. Ermine is being used again, | combined with beaver or sable, while chinchilla is likely to be worn much more than it was last winter. Lace is being used on fur models, but more as | a plaited lining at the base of shoulder capes or sleeves. VEILS. PIE, CAKE, PUDDING. Lemon Rice Pudding—Put one-third of a cup of well-washed rice into one quart of milk and cook until very soft; add to it while hot the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, the grated rind of two lemons and a little salt; this should only be a little thicker than boiled custard; turn into a pud- ding dish, beat the whites to a stiff froth, with six tablespoonfuls of pow- dered sugar and the juice of one and a half lemons; spread this over the pud- ding and brown delicately in the oven; serve very cold. Cream Pie—Put a pint of milk in & double boiler, let it come to a boil; beat together the yolks of two eggs, one- half cupful of sugar and two table- spoonfuls of flour; stir this into the boiling milk, cook until thick: fSavor with lemen; line a pie plate with rich crust and bake; pour the boiled custard into the crust, spread over it a frosting made of the beaten whites of the egss and a tablespoonful of sugar; put the pie back in the oven and brown. ‘Walnut Cake—Half cup of butter, one of sugar, three egg yolks and two egg whites well beaten, ome-half cup of milk, cup and a half of flour, two small teaspoonfuls of baking powder, three< quarter cup of walnut meats broken In pieces. Cream the butter and sugar, add the walnut meats, eggs and milk, Sift the flour and baking powder to- gether; bake in a sheet forty-five min< utes. Cover with a cream made of one cup of sugar, one-half teaspoonful va< nilla, one-third of a cup of water and one egg white, boil sugar and waten till it threads, pour the syrup slowly into the beaten white of the egg: beat until cool enough to spread, then add the flavoring. A square of chocolate may be added if a chocolate frosting is desired. SMILING SLIP ASLEEP. Live, my child, so that each day Brings its share of work and plays So that you can truly tell There are some who love you well: So that when night's shadows creep You can. smiling. slip asleep. Good night. mamma: papa. too. One more day they've lived for you) One more day of joy is dome, One more night of peace is won. Now the round us sweep. You can, smiling. slip asleep. Into sleep we softly slide When the heart is satisfled. Yes. you've had a happy day— Cheery work and gladsome play: And as darkness gathers deep You can, smiling—s-1-i-p—a-s-l-e-e-p. —Alex Jeffrey, in October St. Nicholas, ANSWERS TO QUERIES PAWNBROKER—A. 8, Citv. The Penal Code.of California savs that a pawnbroker who charges more, or re- ceives more, than 3 per cent on loans is guilty of a misdemeanor. PRINTING—A. G.. San Colombano, Chiavari, Italy. The honor of the in- vention printing from block has been | awarded to Laurenzes John Koster of Haarlem, 1438. The art of printing with GLUCOSE—Mrs. H. ¥, Knob, Cal as a jury de lunatico inquirendo, and keep out of Western Kansas ' until he corrects his conclusions. ; i A Glucose is the name applied to a class Veils are so persistently worn that of sugars similar in chemical composi- they have really become part of the tion, but differing in some of their hat and it is not unusual to see a mil- properties. In its more limited significa- liner arranging a perfectly matched ' tiom it is applied to dextrose and lavoui- veil over a new hat before it leaves K ose, which occur naturally together in her shop. Herdanfilmmwmiuulmtmnm. These sugars the folds more gracefully than an in- as fruit sugar, grape sugar, experienced hand could. ', ete. OWLS’ -llE_l‘\e_n_? ON HAT. Owl's heads have lflllllfl' such A Chicago pastor has given his full and unreserved sanction to | the gentle pastime of flirting in church, urging as a reason for so! doing his belief that in the intervals of love-making a religious in- fluence may creep into the attuned hearts. The milk in this cocoanut must be an increase in the number of wedding fees anticipated. 4 From Ma;deu, Mass., comes the story that Joe Walcott, pug, has announced his candidacy for Mayor of that aristocratie village. Will he be forced to make ringside weight before the campaign opensg,