The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 12, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRA VCISCO SUNDAY CALL A CIAT ABOUT STILES The touch of gold ! kes all things fash- | mable and there are rimmed with tiny tra- ceries of gold braid or d buttons and orraments —Startling | color combinations not- | ed in the cowns of the | m — The beautiful ines that arve the cuishing mark of that are to be worn at Newport this summer. ew gowns that are not {f with disun dresses rl, reac to where twisted little hich was a leaf green 5 de with little strap- the front, e strap of ribbon wth he buttons were d the braid was 1 very bright gold. who wanted a touch pattern upon the e fingers she out- e sleeves. When walst was glo- band ¢ ligh “That s walst of it,” said she, th approval, “for all Par- sts have a litgle gold.” h of gold is indeed upon The gold does not take it is used delicately. wide strappings nor nor yet in heavy ap- e other hand, e ways. Threads around low Dutch chings are used down of waists; gold traceries onholes and outling them tons show touches of rrounded by gold or- as gold passementerie. ay gold is introduced In the £ s of summer. lovely summer suit was made 1 2 a brilliant gown, in us h its only trimming 1 of buttons of gold trimmed and of yards and yards of coral traceries upon ngenious ways, is gold ne, and thus, and nade to trim a nd in it is t it off delicately. ways a dress sensation ity this week is found in embroideries, which are ay sh roduc d upon gowns. This dery is the old fash- eyelet embroidery and the pret- st dresses of the season are trim- nd made up with no on except this. 1 embroidery forms not only and the ruffies of wash t of other gowns as well. P panels down the this manner, and with sleeves, neck e punched full of eyelet holes worked very much as one worked he f el petticoats some years ago. it is a poor week that has only one dress sensation and this week is par- ticularly rich, in that it has no less than six, one of the prettiest of which is found in the new collar. This col- lar, which is, of course, a revival col- lar, is brought out again and is chris- tened the Span! collar, probably be- use it is made so frequently of Bpanish lace. The Spanish collar is made In sev- eral forms and it is made out of all kinds of lace and is worn upon every gown under the. sun. Nothing is exempt from the influence of the lace collar, whether it be the delicate gown of organdie, upon which the lace collar seems eminently suitable, or the gown of ladles cloth over which the lace collar is a novelty. The collar is made square, ‘s brought around the shoulders and is crossed in front. The ends hang down in two long tabs below the beilt line. This style of collar is particularly beautiful, giving something of the old- time look so much desired. Collar lace can be of any kind, but it is quite a fad to choose three kinds of lace and combine them in one big collar., There is filet upon which heavy lace can be appliqued, while around the edge there can be set a border of Valenciennes lace. Then there are the Escurial laces, which are very good for collar laces, and there is Spanish lace, which is revived from the attics and old trunks and which is the very best of all. Piece lace makes a delightful col- lar and it is inexpensive. You take the lace and spread it down, laying a wide collar pattern upon it. You cut out the pattern carefully and then you finish the edges of the collar in one of several ways. You can take and border it with lace, simply laying the lace on flat 80 as to cover the ragged edge, and for this purpese Valenciennes lace is very nice, or any of the other narrow laces can be used. And there is another way to deal’ with the ragged edges. Take the col- lar and border it with a band of silk, put on like a piping. This gives a sirong, secure edge, one that will be durable and much admired for many & long day, as long as there is a rag of the lace Jeft. K “Give me six linen gowns and T can @ress all summer,” declared a Newport belle, smoothing the skirt of her new inen etamine. “This Jooks like an eta- = c e 1 t € t! TPED aowr oF 2TE T mine, hangs like taffeta in its pretty stiffness and wears like iron,” said she, “and the color {s the new sealskin brown, just the shade for traveling. “The trimming, as you will observe, is what I call exchangeable,” continued the girl. “The girdle is wide and is made of blue liberty in a shade of corn- fiower; the stock is high and transpar- ent and is partly blue liberty and part- ly brown silk. There is a wide collar of ecru lace, and the undersleeves are of lace falling below open balloons of brown etamine. Oh, you can do a lot with linen if you go at it cleverly, for this etamine is one of the new grades of nice linen goods. “For my other summer linens I would have a fine India linen for evening, & linen as heavy as lawn for garden par- ties and a morning linen or two. Then I would have one of the coarse affairs in tan color, with red and blue nub ef- fects, and I would wind up with a linen crash and half a.dozen skirts in red and white and blue for day wear. That comes to more than half a dozen, does it not? But they could all be used in the summer's wardrobes.. And one would not need much else.” The combining of two kinds of linen is one of the pretty ideas of the sum- mer. And so beautifully is it carried out that there are waists which are fine enough for full dress occasions, yet which have nothing to recommend them in the way of material except that they are of an exquisite quality of linen, put together with great neatness end all by hand. One of these walsts is made with Dutch neck and plain yoke. Beginning at the shoulders there are six little ruf- fles of linen which come down to the bust line, one falling over the other and each one edged with a narrower ruffie of linen. Below this there are two wider ruffies of linen filling to the beit line. This is a ruffied waist, which could be worn for any occasion, with a wide girdle of white or of any other «color. The polka dot has broken out afresh this year and in many new spots. There is the material which is plain dotted and there are numerous new goods which show dots of another material. There afe linens with satin-like dots and there are beautiful silks with dots of lace. There are dotted lawns and sheer dotted goods of every conceivable kind and there are dotted stuffs whose dots vary in size from great to small. In this way the polka dotted gowns main- tain their popularity. One of the most gorgeous polka dots for evening is made with a plain skirt shirred around the hips. The shirrings are/strapped with narrow satin ribbon. Around the foot of this gown there are three ruffies or flounces, the same width all the way around, and put on with & little shirring at the top. The waist of this dress is a beautiful thing. It is gathered across the yoke and is gathered in again at the belt. The sleeves are full puffed sleeves, with the droop all at the elbow, and the neck has a yoke which can be lifted out when the gown i§ desired for dinenr ‘wear. - This matter of lifting out the neck of & gown is one which should be seriously considered by the summer woman. The guimpe is in style and this affords abundant opportunity for the taking out of the gulmpes by courtesy, which can also be taken out of the neck of the dress when a low neck is desired. This gives the summer woman a‘fine chance for making a change in her gowns, as well as a fine opportunity for renewing @ neck that is eolled or that does not match the skirt of her gown. There is a fad which is being carried out upon many ef the new costumes and in the prettiest possible manner. Bands of silk are embroidered by hand and used as @ dress trimming. These bands, which should be twelve in num- ber, are about twelve inches long. They are cut wedge shaped, with the big end of the wedge cut to & point. These silk bands are trimmed with a cross stitch embroidery put on around the edge In many colors.” The ‘sleeves are banded In this manner, as are the shoulders and also the walist and the skirt, These make 3 yery mice and very effective trimming, and & trim- ming that can be used very well upon the traveling dresses.of the season, as well as upon the lighter summer gowns. The woman with time on her hands and half & yard of taffeta, or of satin, or louisine, in her work basket can cut a dozen wedge shaped pleces, point the wedge at its biggest end and go to work. Bhe will want to work these silk wedges In the prettlest color de- possible and her best medium will e a cross stitch embroidery, which should trim the edges of the wedges and also the center. Or she can leave. the middle plain and' make & nice bor- der for the edge. Theinlets of lace are mot so much seen as they were, but there is a lace trimming which is quite as effective and is much more in vogue. This is the lgce medallion lined with a color ana@ used as a decoration. Lace medallions are embroidered In silks in cross stitch designs, and in the middle is set a little flat pearl but- ton. This rosette-like piece is used to trim a stock and a yoke &nd to decor- ate other parts of the walist, such as the front of the belt, the epaulets and the panel down the front, for many of the new walsts are still trimmed with these panelings. Lace yokes and lace cuffs and whole lace walsts are just as much worn as ever and a little more, perhaps, for with the new kinds of lace there have come new ways of treatment. Lace is treated in artistic ways with very good results, for lace is so adaptable that it lends itself readily te all sorts of conditions. One of the very new ways of using lace is to make insertions of lace and border them with satin ruchings. Nar- row satin ribbon is used and the ruch- ing is made thick and full. This is sewed around the edge of the lace ap-~ plication, which is then set upon the skirt of the dress. The applications are used to trim skirts and walsts and they are also seen upon sleeves, and always with the edging of ribbon, which gives the finishing touch to the lace. Then there is the lace ornament which is so charming upon the sum- mer gowns. This ornament is made of lace shirred along one edge. This hair string is pulled and the rosette is made. When completed it is about the size of a silver quarter and fs ready to be used. If desired a little jewel can be set in the middle of the lace rosette. Little lace roses are charming things and & group of these tiny roses in white lace with small red silk roses set in the middle were observed upon one of the prettiest evening gowns of the season. These lace roses in groups of six or eight trim the skirts of even- ing gowns and the skirts of day gowns. They are delightfully dainty and are feminine to the very last degree. And there 1s still another new fad for the woman who likes pretty trimmings and this is & French fad. Wide bands of silk are sewed to the neck of the gown. They hang to the walst line, where they are bordered with lace. Under these squares of lace there are set bits of colored silk while the lace is embroidered in silk design. Little lacy fancies these are, but charming in the sum and substance of the season’'s wardrobe. One of the sweetest gowns—for it can be called by no other name—is a dress in Japanese crepe. The groundwork is a deep cream, while the figures are tiny dots, put on to form open squares. These dots make an exquisite founda- tion for the. trimming, which consists of hundreds of little lace roses put on in clusters. Widists of Japanese crepe are pretty for evening. They are cut very low in the neck and very short in the sleeves. Around the neck are two deep ruffles of the crepe, each one embroldered in gold threads, with threads of chrysanthe- mum pink run in through the gold. The neck is finished very simply with a band of deep red velvet and the elbows are finished In the same manner. Bhe who desires & Japanese crepe luncheon waist can make it of crepe ruffles, one falling over the other and each ome prettlly embroidered. The neck can be fashioned of deep red taf- feta, or Wh‘l.l is prettier And less ag- gressive, a gulmpe in a shade of coral red. A spray of roses is fastensd upon one shoulder. There is a great fancy for trimming the necks and shoulders of gowns with bands of velvet. These velvet strappings go over the shoulder and over the arm. A band of velvet also extends around the yoke. The gir- dle matches this band of veivet. Bands of velvet form a very effective trimming and they are used upon waists for evening in place of shoul- der straps of jewels and In place ef shoulder straps of flowers. Velvet is very freely used this sum- mer and its place i3 not upon heavy gowns and gowns of taffeta as much as upon the lighter summer fabrics, to which it gives the touch which was needed. Velvet bands and velvet shoulder straps, velvet girdles and velvet stocks and velvet panels have all been revived and are seem this summer Iin most bewildering array. Beautiful spring coats are made of tan colored taffeta and of black feta and white. These taffe coats are delightful In cut and are made in all the varieties and vagaries of Dame Fashion’s dictate. One of the prettiest styles is that of a modifled kimono. This is straight with strappings of cloth. The cloth, which is not more than half an inch wide, is stitched along both edges. It extends up the front and all around the lower edge of the coat. A similar band of taffeta is used to outline the yoke and extends around the neck and up on the coat in great swirls. The sleeves of this taffeta kimono are very wide and are finished with stitched bands of cloth, which is also put on in swirls. The yoke is trimmed with swirls of cloth stitched upon both edges. The vest of this coat is fashioned of Perslan embrofdery, which Is carried out in many colors. Red and blue and green are outlined upon & background of pastel tone. An elaborate little coat of this kind can be worn efther with a silk skirt or one of cloth and Is equally pretty with satin or with taffeta. It makes a nice little coat for calliag and reception wear and it makes a pretty coat for gayer days and rougher occasions. Exquisite are new stocks, with their delicate trimmings. There are stocks made of lace, all open work, and there are stocks that are the very height of elaboration. One lovely stock 18 made of taffeta, with an embroidered pea- cock feather running all the way around the neck. Another has peacock feathers running around the beit. In front there is a peacock clasp made of gold and brilliants. A beautiful stock from & dressmak- er's standpoint is made of black lace. embroldered with gold bands and with beads of steel. The stock, which is made with a cape, has a pattern in gold and steel outlined upon it in deli- cate work. This is one of the most or- pamental ,of handsome dressmaking accessories and is one that can be worn with any costume. It is the littles this year which make up the fashions and the woman who wants to be fashionable must look to | the small things or her costume will 4 not be & success. P