The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 29, 1904, Page 10

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL., = R O many and so varied are the little perplexities that ter into almost every man’s life without find- satisfactory solution, so unusual are are constantly from women an answer to in any other | Sunday Call has ablished this page devoted and exclusively to t Women Want te Know,” edited by M Moore. Here every trial or tribula- the mind and heart can 1t in the full con- it will recelve se- ion — every of fact or fiction. of and all its manifold tie= and tasks, of the inner sanc- b ot of a woman’s life. finds ready solution. Ladies, this page is all your very own. What would you? Please address all commu- nications to Madge Moore, editor “What Women Want to Know,” Sunday Call, San Francisco. S0 many 3 « tters that received v cannot find their gquestions vay, that The tion of be poured o sness th rious conside que e home on ry apron girl is a new varlety s be confessed, a very c one at tr She does o herself with those who don ap badge of sérvitude; -but, or d, she freely con- fésses belc to that great guild whose chief aim in life is in providing bread end butter and occasionally a little jam s charming girl stands upon a pin- nacle of her own erecting. When she Joined the fraternity of bread winners &nd took her place in & downtown of- fice, her first thought was how best to lodk neat and it Frills and furbelows were not to be considered & single in- stant, and the only costume that ap- pealed to her love of the eternal fitness of things was the short skirt and trim shirt waist. Even then she had troubles, for shirt waists only look smart when they are dainty and immeaculate, and then ghe discovered to her sorrow that more than one waist had to be sent to the laundfy after wearing once, because of its solled look, which contrasted sharp- ly with its otherwise fresh appearance. That was entirely too much of a lux- ary, for the laundry bills increased at an alarming rate, and such frequent tubbings told serfously upon the fab- rics. Then came improvised paper cuffs, which were always undone and a per- fect nuisance. Following in quick suc- were the tops of stockings and straw sleeves, which were the ? hideousness. Plainly something it be done, for such an untidy speci- nity could ‘scarcely be tolerated in a shipshape office, The black sat: apron covered the front of her but fafled utterly to protect th t or sleeves. Black sateen h were straightway made, bu regalia was not up to the mark and besides it was dis- tinctly homely and dull looking. The crying need was an apron. Some- d differ from the one used by the waltress, by the nursemaid or the artist. Something that would be et picturesque, for the busi- f to-day knows full well that it is to her advantage to appear fit, but not overdressed. In the good old days, long since gone by, she could wear almost any old frock and cover it with an apron and useful consider her attire suitable for work. In fact, the main idea was to keep her best clothes for “home use and to ap- her employer's garbed in any 1 1 hold together and not y. Certainly no ¢ office ever accused her of ¥ sh % extrava k=uve, neither did they give her second glance, and she w soon ked upon as a mere machine, useful rwise, as the case might be Not so the girl of 1204. She d 5es neat and prett and as she has c ed that desk work net only s but wears guickly, she has wel- comed her big apron, not as a badge, but as a protecter for the‘dainty frock h, which she knows fuli well t just twice as long for this n. the girl who is compelled t at the end of nowhere, fre- € s obliged to dre the morn- ing f r ation and engu Ana for t onsider it l‘.t her long coat for ver the changes ing and no one is e etty, but it is somewtl unless blue walist with a pretty, Office aprons really a stout materia tub and be none the w nd while deli- cately colored dimities and lawns are pretty they do not wear as well as per- India linons and even prints. Calico is mot to be despised these days, for there Is such an e s va- riety that the practical girl may appear to quite as good advantage as her more flowery sister. A peculiar shade of blue, with a dash of whi looks well, and the apron may be made by goring the front breadth, insert- ing the gores to give width at the bottom. The apron is not sewed up all the way, amd the sleeves may be put in the space left for them in the seams. Ruffles may be added and finished with a tiny white braid, but really they are neater and more comfortable when en- tirely devoid of trimmings of any kind or description. Another apron that is particularly fetching for the stenographer who daily comes in contact with inks is made of & good quality of percaline. It is light weight and looks very much like moire silk, which are good points in its favor. The slender girl runs a number of lengthwise tucks In the walist, letting them out here and there to give her a round effect. The strings, which are rather short, are inserted at the waist line on either side, and this in itself brings the apron well in at the back. The ruffles, pock- et and ties are pretty if briar stitched, which, by the way, is the latest im- provement on old fashioned feather stitching. Black India silk and pongee make soft, clinging aprons, which are not only picturesque, but decidedly useful as well. The girl who has plenty of time and who cares enough for her personal appearance may make a charming one by fagoting the deep flounce at the bottom, the ruffles at the neck, at the wrist and on the pocket. Then in order to make it more fetching she may catch the ties just a little above the waist line in front and bring them to the back, empire fashion, in a big bow with long ends. Perhaps it is the bows that fly about in such a saucy, impertinent way and perhaps it is the artless baby effect that catches the eye of every man that sees it, but whatever it is, it not only catches his eye, but holds it as well. Hemstitched aprons are alyvays popular and becoming. And really they are not such a trial to make, for days materials may be purchased itched; and, not only this, B 1 number of widths. description s far re 1 shows to better advan- tage when made in some simple way ds itself better than This apron, ecizlly smart when for it never fails > of her figure to the bles in water and a s not need one that 1 of her frock, so she upon the style adopted v A colored handker- th to be sure, may be werted into a chic little affair h oks more iit for a tea table than ad ofiice, but it is inexpensive and launders nicely and has been hosen for i isefulness alone. here are hosts of girls other than ster aphers who have hailed the advent of the apron with delight. There is the girl who, teaches, the girl in the photograph gallery, the girl in the doctor’s office and the girl in the newspayg office, Each and every one must keep neat and trim for call- ers and that is a difficult task, con- sidering the dust to which they are ex- posed. It is easy, however, to stop delving into last year's negatives or files, put on an artistic grass cloth, piped with red.or pink by way of color, and be perfectly fresh and dainty when the visitor arrives, for the most immaculate girl in all Chrig- tendom finds herself, at times, deep in the depths of ancient history and covered from head to toe with the dust of ages. It really isn’t g difficult matter to keep the office generously supplied with this fascinating accessory, for every girl can manage to keep a drawer in her desk for her “linen chest,” and with little or no trouble see that it'is filled with freshly laundered ones, for aprons, like 21l things linen, must be the pink of neatness, else they are worse than none at all. % The girl who fails to see in a dainty, bewitching apron an opportunity for adding to her personal charms must be nothing more or less than a dullard, in- deed. Many a man has been ensnared in the muslin bow tied at the back of a girl’'s walst, for there is something so essentially womanly about the apron that it immedlately suggests itself as the banner of the home, and once lodged, all the king's horses and all the king’s men couldn’t get that idea out of his head again. Answers to Correspondents THIGK LIPS AND NERVOUSNESS (Eloise).—I know of no remedy for reducing constitutionally thick lips. All that can be done is to keep them smooth and avoid doing anything that may increase their size. If the thick- ness is the result of some habit, stop it at once and in time the lips may assume their normal shape; for ex- ample, avoid any disposition toward contorting the lips in conversation— such mannerisms are unpleasant to witness and ruin the contour of the chin and nose as well as the lips. Bit- ing the lips, and especlally the under lip, with a sucking.inward movement is the most common cause of disfigure- ment among’ adults as ‘well as among children. Most people are quite un- conscious of the habit which is often the result of mervousness. Dab the lips with a little liquid quinine to act as a reminder and thus assist in breaking up the habit. Lips which are very sensitive to wind and cold must be anolnted to prevent eracking, but do not use a greasy lotlon except when absolutely necessary and then rub on lightly. The frequent appli- cation of salves, oils, etc., thoroughly rubbed into the lips acts precisely like massage, building up the tissues, thus producing undesirable size. An excellent lotion consists of pure sweet cream or equal parts of rose water and glycerine, unless you happen to be one of the people who eannot use glycerine. Lack of exercise and long hours spent in hard mental work in over- heated rooms is probably at the bot- tom of your trouble. To overcome nervousness when no organic disturb- ance is present, take plenty of out- door exercise . regularly—walking Is the best form in which to take such exercise and is within the reach of all. An hour spent in the open air each day will do much toward 'restoring the fagged nerves to normal condi- tions, provided one’s food is plain and nourishing and the sleeping-room: well ventilated at all times and at all sea- sons. GIRDLES AND BELTS (Mary K. L.).—The high-boned girdle to match the gown 1s the most fashionable waist completion of the season. When worn by a tall, slender woman it is extreme- ly Frenchy and glves a wonderful amount of style to the gown; on the other hand, it is a most unfortunate choice for women of naturally short waist line or those inclined to stout- ness, for the numerous short lines ex- aggerate every faulty curve of walst and hips. "“Know thyself” should be the watchword of every woman and this is only possible by faithfully studying the .mirror; at times its re- flections will be anything but flatter- ing and then the wise woman wil! know her limitations. The high girdle must be made with the utmost care and the fit and boning be faultless to insure that perfect adjustment so es- sential to good style. No set rule can be given as to materials, as its com- ponent parts are almost invariably the same as those of the gown over which it is worn. A girdle made of folds of black silk or ribbon boned to hold it in correct shape is useful to wear with odd waists, but it should be remembered that unless the waist is designed especially to be worn with a high girdle it {8 apt to look just what it s and cause the girdle to be un- comfortably snug worn over the many gathers of the average blouse waist. Belts are varied enough to suit the most exacting; there are wide ones to delight the slender woman and nar- row ones to grace the woman of stout form. One of the prettiest designs of the season is of plaited ribbon, trim- med with jet or cut steel beads with buckles to match or with buckles in dull gilt or silver. To wear with the trig walking suits are narrow belts of colored enameled leathers, bright red, blue, golden brown, black, ete., which give a pleasing contrast to an other- wise somber outfit. TREATMENT OF FRECKLES (H. L. - B.).—Ot all facial blemishes “reckles are the most obstinate to cope rth and are bete noire of the profes- sional beauty speclallst as well as the home practitioner. Usually they are the remaining links of childhood and will vanish with iIncreasing years. During their existence eternal vigi- lance in the matter of diet, protection from wind and sun, with frequent ap- plications of a mild acid lotion, will materially assist in keeping them in subjection. The tiny brown specks are caused by minute particles of iron in the blood which have worked their way through the glands of the skin and formed a deposit under the sur- face; they may be divided Into two classes—constitutional or sun freckles The former are usually quite dark and cannot be eradicated except by herolc measures in the hands of a skilled dermatologist; even then suc- cess does not always result. The usual method of removing these blemishes is to have the delicate tissues of the epi- dermic removed in layers by the appli- cation, of a caustic lotion, until the offending spot is reached. This re- quires time and patience and during the peeling process the skin is made very rough. Sun freckles disappear almost entirely after a few days the shade, but are agaln brought out oy exposure to wind ana sun. An ex- cellent, harmless lotion which may be applied daily and which is very effica- clous in ordinary cases is composed of one-half pint of rosewater, one table- spoonful of lemon juice and half an ounce of powdered alum. Powerful bleaches not ddvisable in the are hands of amateurs. BEAUTIFYING THE ARMS (Ellen).—Ugly, thin arms may be readily developed and the rough skin rendered beautiful by extremely good care In the matter of bathing, together with the wise application of a pure tkin food, accompanied by systematic massage. Do not be alarmed about the rough condition of the skin at the backs of the arms above, the elbows; the pores are rather large on this part of the arm, hence the pre- disposition to coarsen if the regular functions are impaired, whether by 1il- ness or general sluggish circulation. The first thing to do is to relieve the congested, morbid condition of the en- larged pores;.a flesh brush is an in- valuable aid in this work. Bathe the arms with hot water and then make a lather of castile or other bland soap and then, with the brush or finger tips, rub thoroughly into the pores. Con- tinuethe gentle friction with the lather for at least flve minutes, then wash away and rinse the arms with cold water, dry with a soft absorbent towel, rubbing briskly for five or ten minutes, but be careful not to frritate the skin. Then anocint the arms with a rellable skin food or with cocon butter; the latter is a most valuable tonic for skin administration and is used in the famous public baths in large cities for the upbuilding of wast- ed tissues. Rub into the skin as long as it is absorbed readily, using a firm BY «_~YUDiE._/Joons, - pressure. If persevered In this treat- ment will surely produce the desired results and a marked. improvement will be noted at the end of a month of fgithful tyeatment. SYSTEMATIC LABOR (Young Housekeeper).—A mald of average ability should be able to do the house- work for a family of three in a clean, orderly manner without friction, es- pecially when the home is supplied with numerous labor-saving conveni- ences. Do not, however, expect a maid to sweep and scrub all day and supplement the exertion by serving a flve-course company dinner at 7 o'clock, for one or both efforts will result in fallure, no matter how strong or willing she may be. The average general mald has a brain much llke a machine; if kept in a regular groove it works quite smoothly, but confuss the routine and chaos results. The source of most troubles in the domes- tic household is lack of system. If a maid has a method of her own which enables her to perform the required services in a satisfactory manner, it is usuall: wise mot to Interfere with her plans. If, however, she lacks sys- tem, have a friendly talk with her, pointing out how the work may be planned so that it may be done prop- erly, and leave her some time for rest and enjoyment; if she is a sensible girl this will appeal to her and she will likely fall into your way of work- ing. After having decided upon a sys- tem which best accords with the household insist upon each duty being performed on the day alletted to it unless something quite unforeseen occurs to prevent. If at any time you are without a maid and must do own work apply this same plan > yourself. THE ART OF (Social).—As the frie entertain for and aga d playir I . suggest that you invitations to those fond of wk ) em on card par afternoon tea Shou at 5 of amusement, w fndicate “a house self,” it would occasion awkward comment and more or embarrassment. We should alw remember that every one has a | fect right to his or her own convig tions on this much-discussed subject and it would be ill<bred indeed > force our o ideas on our g S Further, the novice should no urged to take part in a card gar unless entirely agreeable to the ex; players, for the beginner is chagrir vided ag: constderal at the blunders.and the expert ar noyed. At 5 o'clock tea delicata sandwiches and cake are served in- fcrmally to the guests. Do tempt much in the way of ent ment. ADVERTISEMENTS. A BEAUTIFUL The three roquisites of facial beauly are founded features, absence of wrinkiss and fipe complexion, and she is a wise woman, blessed with these favors, who will stri; by every means to preserve, om if lost, re- store them. beautifiers to-day, is the study and experiemce by Dr. physician of high st in his profeesion. snd his preparation ls one In the world recognized and indorsed by the medi~ cal fraternity. It is positively the only preparation known to sclemce which with- put the use of medicines and tonics wil} found out the hollowed, thin cheek or perawny neck with firm, healthy flesh. For Femoving wrinkles from the face, neck and bands it acts like magic—one application often showing a decidsd Improvement, eev pectally when the furrow is deep. For developing the bust or to make the breast firm. large and beautiful. nothing can equal it. To prevent the breast from phrinking, mothers should always use Dr. Charles Flesh Food after weaning baby. It will also restore a bosom to its natural cone tour and beauty lost through this cause. We earnestly warn ladies to avold subds ates of Dr. Charles Flesh Food. See the name and portrait of Dr. Charles Is on the box befors purehasing. We also warn ladles not to use any other cream on the face, as Dr. Chasies’ Flesh Food is guar< Anteed not to promets the growth of hair. On sale at all the prineipal Department Btores and Druggists. SPECIAL OFFER— T me- lar price of Dr Charles Flesh Food is $1.00 a box, but ‘to introduce It Into thousands of new homes fts proprietors have decided to send two (2) boxes to all who answer this advertisemeng and send them 31.00. All packages are sent in plain wrapper, postage prepald | -~ A sampis box—just h t ER-E convince you :: t.::“:rn: merit of Dr. Charles Flesh Food—will by pent free for 10 cents, which pays for cosl bt mailing. We will also send you oux lustrated book, “Art of Massage,” whick ntains all the proper movements for mas< face. neck and arms, and ful] rections for developing the bust. Address DR. CHARLES C0.. 108 Fultoa St.. Now Yor3