The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 13, 1903, Page 10

10 THE SUNDAY CALL. ady. when the dusk of early f gins to deepen into twi- th hour ap- t a tea a twilight £ This ss between a dinner dress and & with all the beauty « e £ afort of the that it 1s y about the e ob- fashioned ich was low cut neck summer, and both comfort- t 1= well to the e w « the z 1 back. Thi a th & chemi- >s and Girdles. . ngs finds expression f which r gowns - ngs of al essary feature of the twi- he wide girdle terlal and 1s desired ped ake the Fifure Slim. e the girdle is to boned crinoline. at are knots of down t almost reach the rt. These are knotted mes to give a finish to the essmakers insist that the T will tighten im is almost when it comes to putting e this article is placed loosely waist and its folds are ver: n ends are loosel! looks as though eat deal tighter. In is given an air of ces in t should a the belt. the corset, ments be very easy ve rule, which, 1 cause the gown t of the mode h its flowing lin e belt, and t s B folding o silk line high en e the bust. This is an © one that does not go out, for you see it repeated in all the new fashions of winter 1 ga se gown, or twi- g ne oks very simple it to make. o the amateur, flowing in all r feature is eft shoulder while from the in long lines clear lines it is fastened toga fashi s away he grous The Roman Toga Gown. rn fashions have much trans- toga gown until now ted foundation and es are bordered with there is a Per- t of the gown. ck of Perglan wide sleeves bordered with -to-date look to this Rom the most Amelle cherming women at ess Troubetzkoy, for- It was she who was cover the beauties in her fondness y seconded by Mrs. y and Mrs. Cleveland, both of whom popularized it in that day in Washington. Now you will see this same gown made more conventionally, but retain many of its old points of beauty. To be very practical upon the subject of the twilight gown one can mention the model which is made of cashmere in a shade of tan, 2 tan that is almost brown, The skirt, which is of conventional eut, is long in the back. It is very plainly trimmed with four straight flounces four inches wide. There is no heading to these flounces. Another of these pretty twilight gowns 15 made of light biue cloth with satin eheen. The bottom of the skirt, which is very long, is trimmed with four very deen dR2oHY mANLR WA =y e J tucks, each tuck headed with a little fancy fagoting. A skirt like this is with- in the skill of the home dressmaker, who must remember, however, to make the skirt very long even though it be very simple in design. A lovely little house coat which should be in the wardrobe of every woman who aspires to dress well is made of panne velvet. If you do not want to go into velvet you could make it of face cloth or of satin or of taffeta. It will be found the most economical article in one’s ward- robe, Latest French Fashions. The 'French woman, without her house coat, would be lost and the well dressed American woman should not be behind her in appreciation of this garment. It can be made from odds and ends. A pretty material from which to make it is biscuit colored panne. Let it be cut short and shaped like a cut-away jacket, but- toning to the bust, then flaring a little. The back s very tight fitting and there i= just the suggestion of a frill around the hips. The beauty of the house coat is that it can be worn all winter over the old U Wm#vfflaro/pr/y/ shirt waists of summer. It Is cut low in the neck and is provided with a wide silk sailor collar. It can be cut off at the elbows and finished with a flare cut. Thus made it is one of the prettiest of all gar- ments for house wear. The undersieeves bag prettily below it and the throat is made handsome with a lace finish. That the summer shirt waist is to be worn all winter is now a settled fact and the woman who does not know how to wear thin waists in the winter time must speedily learn. She must get ‘‘on to” the trick of the heavy lawn underwaist and must master the intricacies of the little house coat, which protects all but the front of the waist and the sleeves, and which is slipped on over any shirt waist with stunning effect. The science of the button, used as a trimming, is something to be studied. There is & great deal in knowing how to use your very expensive buttons after you have purchased them, and there is everything in understanding what not to do with them. Buttons that stand llke sentinels in & stupid row upon the front of the waist are no ornament at all Nelther are buttons that occupy useless space, for the new art button has its work to do. Mme. Pattl’s Gowns. Mme. Patti, who is the smartest of all weil dressed women, has @ way of turn- ing back a velvet cuff and fastening it with a blg handsome button. She also knows how to turn back a wide collar and set a button to keep it in place. Her button collection is very large and some of the buttons are very valuable. When not in use upon a gown they are kept in a jewel case. Madame's twilight gowns are of marvelous beauty. The dinner gowns, for an informal din- ner at home when there is no one ex- Pected outside the family, can be cut on charming lines and made of pretty ma- terials, but it should not look like a wrapper nor yet like a tea gown. Though an informal dress it has its formalities. It is quite different from a negligee, ‘which savors of the sleeping room al- I 7 vz /4 Lo WOITH FOL L WAIIT ‘ways, no matter how elegantly planned it may be, and yet it has none of the stiffness of the dinner gown. One of the prettiest of all sights is the shopping woman, worn with the labors of the day, in a twilight gown, ready for dinner. Her dress is a dainty flowered stuff, making her look like a china wo- man. Her slippers are trimmed with fig- ured bows of ribbon, in the middle of which there is a tiny but very brilliant buckle. Around her waist is folded a figured sash and at her throat nestles a ‘wide ruching. This same woman another evening will wear the severe type of gown, the one that is tucked as to the skirt In little tucks laid all around the beit, while the walist is made in baby waist style, but- toning in the back in French fashion. A very wide girdle, all in black, laid in many folds is passed around the waist and tied in the back in a very severe four-in-hand with very long ends. Many of the twilight gowns have lsce sleeves, and, speaking of these, here is a true story: ““Where did you get the beautiful lace in your sleeves?’ asked one woman of anohter. “I cut up the best parts of an old lace curtain,” replied the woman, patting her pretty house sleeves with consclous pride. And this only goes to show how mater- fals can be used for gowning fair woman this season and how every scrap of lace can be utilized no matter what may have been its previous condition or servitude. Fine linen, fine net and fine goods of all kinds can be made into sleeves, for fashion says that they need not match the gown. Big linen puffs may bag over the wrists and big lace puffs may bag over the knuckles, regardless of the style or kind of dress which they adorn. Those who are looking for fashiom “tips” will be glad to know that the beaded work which was so dressy and so popular will remain in style. That yoke collars fitting closely over the shoulders will be worn with a deep flounce attached, long enough to fall to the elbows. That scraps of chiffon can be shirred and used @ & trimming for evening walsts, and that the chiffon can be con- veniently disposed to cover worn spots. That linen must be decorated with small embroldered dots no larger than a speck in order to be pretty and fashio: . That the straight flounce makes a very nice finish for the walking skirt and that three, four, five or six of these straight flounces can be advantageously used upon the bottom of a street dress. That it is absolutely necessary to have a coat and skirt suit for early fall wear and that the skirt may be plain If pre- ferred, while the coat can be simple Nor- folk jacket. That the straight walking coat, com- ing just to the hips and beited with a loose leather belt, is the nattiest thing of autumn, and that this coat can be of any color to match the skirt or to contrast with ft. That the soft silk scarf plays a very fmportant part in this season’s fashions and is used as a lacing for the fremt of the bodice and for the front of the little street coat. Large eyelet holes are work- ed into the coat and the silk scarf is laced through them. That every gown must have its cape collar to be sometimes worn and some- times left off, but in the wardrobe, whether it be always worn or not, That autumn will see the high crowned hat coming in and that the low crown is slowly disappearing. That the milliners are busy trying to raise the low crowns and are resorting to various means. That dressmakers are at the point of mutiny, for all gowns must be trimmed with needlework and needlework of the most trying description, fagoting, hem- 1ng, smocking, French knots, trac- ngs and coral stitchings. That embroideries are to be used in new ways, not merely as odgings, but as trimmings, put on in bands a few inches apart, wherever the style of gown will permit. That lingerie hats all of lace will be worn all winter and that the dressiest new hat seen this season s made of silver lace, trimmed with very small pink roses, That hand-painted lace and embroid- ered lace will be used upon hats, upon blouses and upon the skirts of evening dresses. That there is talk of reviving the cus- tom of dining In picture hats, and that wonderful drooping hats are being de- signed for this very purpose. That y large and very beautiful mother-of-pearl buttons will be seen, and that these exquisite pleces of pear! will be trimmed with enamel decorations to bring out the opalescent tints, 1 that, while the main attention is turned to handsome gowns, the eye roves, nevertheless, toward tne very handsome petticoats which are dlsplayed in the shops and which are made up with a reck- less disregard for cost or for anything else except the beauty thereof. The petticoat absolutely must flare around the foot, and to make it de so Is one of the problems of modern dressmak- ing and modern petticoat construction. Ruffles are set, one on top of the other, to make the full foot flare, and under the ruffles is a frill of stiff stk which is warranted to keep the silk ruffles well out. Ruffles are of all shapes, scalloped, frilled, petal trimmed and cut In squares, ;nythlns to make a fullness around the oot. Dame Fashion has other fads ready to spring upon a willing feminine world, but, like Dame Nature and all others of her sex, she keeps her surprises well hidden and springs them upon the world only in her own good time, B S S Literary Furor? Well Rather! E.W.TOWNSEND the Famous Author of Chimmie Fadden Will MaKke His Debutasa Writer for Ghe Sunday Call Next Sunday. | oy