The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 26, 1903, Page 10

10 ~5- And What the Summer Girl Puts On When She Goes Forth | to Make Her Annual Conquests. Beaux Are Caught by Rose Color, Bo They Say, and by Fluffy, Frilly Gowns—Dazzling Little Devices by Which Man Is Snared, & Willing Victim, Into the Net Spread for Him by the Summer Girl—The Latest French Devices for Making a Worn-Out Shirt Waist Look | Just as Good as New. ) oo BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. HE beau-catching girl is in our midst nd these are the marks by e wears & beau-catching gown. She wears a flower hat y and there is a ribbon ol of seductive hue, plain or much berufiled te color is color-of-rose. I e ribbon bows, ribbon choux and b immings upon her gown. Her ribbons are st or are combina- tion ribbons, two or three kinds being used one bow, or knot, or chou, whichever chance to ca Her dress fastens invisibly in the front or visibly in you Such is the beav ere her most dist such cteris- ere are others, quite ie most bewildering 1 of summer girls. st not be thought that the ching girl deliberately goes ouj captivate a beau, for this is not thl case. But both she and her gown are bulit that way, and 1t 1§ not her fault at the summer beau falls a willing vic- r charms and to the charms of her gown. The most distinguishing feature of her dresses is that they are fluffy and frilly. They are very light in weight or at least very light in texture, and there is a effect about them that is fas- The transparent materials of all kinds are more in vogue than ever and to assist the summer girl in her search for trans- _ SUPERB Lowss XIN €T WITH SKIKT parent materials there come all the laces and pre:ty and entirely every point of view. as lovely summer zibelines E nvases Spots and Tigured Oesigns. If you were to ly examin€ the new- est of the beau-catching gowns you would notice that they show a tendency to spots and figures. The raindrop is seen either in the same color or in a con- trasting hue, and there aie a great many other little figures which are also used. 1 instead of being plain, have ittie figure raised upon them, or de- pressed into them, and tiny flowers are woven into the surface of more than one nice fabric. Materials with a very tiny figure are really the best for the beau-catching girl, for they are more attractive. The figure can be of the same color as the back- ground, and can be carried out in a tiny satin or silk lace effect, or it can be a little embroldered figure. Any of the small designs are good, and the girl who can make up ..er own gowns can even at this late day add a little gown of figured stuff to very good advan- tage, for it will be so very fashionable all the spring and fall. Moreover, a dotted material is easier to make up than a plain one, for it requires less skill in the fitting and a great deal I care in the finish. It needs no other trimming besides itself and when done there is a certain pretty dressiness at- tached to One of Miss Alice Roosevelt’s most fetching summer gowns is.a rose colored dotted lawn, with dots also in rose. The skirt is trimmed with a very deep flounce, *which comes half way up to the belt. The flounce, though deep, is a scanty one, with narrow bands of very inexpensive lace set into it. There is a hip yoke of the same kind of lace. The waist is a plain little rose colored blouse, with a little white lace fichu tled around the shoulders. The Tying of the Sash. By way of color the dotted white gown, or the dotted pink one, may have a bright sash—and, indeed, the summer sash is one of the very necessary features of dress. The popular color for the sash is rose, but they wear sashes of striped ribbon and sashes of bluish green, mixed with pink, and sashes of black and yellow and blue all combined in the most chic Frenchy fashion. The tying of the sash is something upon which the success of the toflet depends. And the summer girl must carly become MED \WITH EMFIFE PESIGNS. FAU - (arcrmng (Gown/ an adept at the tying. She must learn the secret of the fonr-in-hand knot and how to apply it to her belt ribbon; and she must become past grand mistress of the ribbon knot bow, with four loops and only two ends, The wily summer girl, when she puts on her beau-catching gown, will pin on her belt 4nd fasten it with an elegantly showy pin, right in the middle of the front. At the back of the belt she will attach a ribbon bow in such a manner that the ends of the loops and all will hang down in the most perfect order. It must be a “made” bow, and to complete the deception, the beau-catching girl can attach it to the back of her belt with a very large pin made to look exactly like a buckle, Another style of belt is one that is pro- vided with jacket tabs. Wide coat tall or frills, looking exactly like those that finish the empire coats, are attached to the belt and the whole is then hooked around the waist. The effect is precisely as though a jacket were worn and the girl of artistic tastes can make these belts and put tails on them with the very best results. Frequently these wide tabs, which extend almost all the way around the hips, are embroidered, and then the effect Is even better. Innocent Little Deceptions. And there are a great many innocem little deceptions practiced by the beau- catching girl, deceptions which are so good to look upon that one likes to be de- ceived by .them. In the front ranks of summer deceptions comes the newest undersleeve, which is only a puff of chiffon with a very narrow band of elastic run in the puff at the top and bottom. This puff can be made of lawn if preferred, or of organdie, or of any of the thin summer stuffs. It can also be made of louisine and of taffeta— indeed anything can be used, in old or new material. The special mission of this undersleeve, which is nothing more nor less than a puff, is to provide a finish for the elbow sleeve. It is slipped on the arm in such @ way that it covers the elbow. The waist with its elbow sleeve is then put on. This very simple style of undersleeve is one that is now being made by all the French modistes and, in making it, they make not one pair of undersleeves, but half a dozen to go with every gown: But this is a matter which the nimble fin- gered summer girl can decide for herself, for the making af such a sleeve is so very simple as to need no teaching and to take very little tima, THE SUNDAY CALL. = SANANA COLORED ULERL TRIMME WITH LemcE W//rr»v /,wrp TRIMMED WITH LR mpes There 1s another artifice practiced by the beau-catching girl, and this is even a prettier one. She takes newest spec- imens of oriental embroidery and makes herself a stock and a front “slat”, of them To make a new stock take enough Ar- menian or Persian or Chinese embroidery to go around the neck. Finish it top and bottom to look like a stock. Provide it and eyes In the back of the w take a strip of embroidery long enough (o go from the chin to the beit and attach it to the under part of the stock. This makes the Oriental “siat” and it is a thing in great vogue this sum mer, though not entirely a new idea. Little Oriental Ideas. The note of novelty is, Bowever, given to it by the use of the coral pins which are employed to fasten it to the waist at each side. A dozen tiny flowers of pal- est pink coral gre used and at the throat there is a larger pin, also of pink coral. Another oriental set has two slats, one in the middle of the front and one in the middle of the back; but, in adjusting these, it certainly does require the assist- ance of a mald, for the slats must set straight or the appearance is utterly spoiled. The beau-catching girl who' iz not too fat can employ a pretty little method for finishing her sleeves. And It is one that is Dest adapted to a sleeve that is half worn out, making it look like new again. Take, for tne sake of an example, an old shirt waist suit of dotted percale and imagine that it has gone to tLe wash tub once too often. It is Ironed shiny in some spots and rough in others and here and there in the goods there is a suspicious looking place as though it were going to be a hole. Take such a dress and make for the wrists a lttle ruffle of cream colored wash ribbon. Repeat the ruffles further up the arms, so that they cover the el- bows like little bells. Then place similar caps on the shoulders. Of course, there must be a belt to match the ruffes and a stock. Such a course will entirely reno- Vate an old shirt walst suit. It ribbons are scarce, as is sometimes the case, it is a pretty idea to use ruffies of lawn and, in many cases, the results are really better. The ruffles can be laid in pin tucks and finished with a bit of hemstitching, if pne does not mind doing a little extra hand work. The Worn-Out Gown. The problem of the worn out summer dress is one that confronts the neat minded girl or woman just at this time ©of year. That the summer is young there is no quedtion. But that one’s gowns all have an old, worn-out look is just as cer- tain. Fortunately, there are a great many devices and many of ‘these are of such a nature that they really improve the appearance of the dress so that it looks better than when it was new. Particularly can the white cloth dresses be renovated and it is, after all, a saving to purchase one of these gowns, for it looks nice from the beginning of the chapter to the end. It is becoming from the time it is put on in all its immaculate Whiteness to the time when, half worn out, it is treated to one of the many de- vices known to the modistes, whose duty it 1s to make over these gowns so that they shall look just like new. A white cloth dress recently furnished an excellent example of this, Never an elegant gown, it was, nevertheless, very pretty and when white and clean it was the best gown in the owner’s wardrobe. But soon it became sofled around the foot and then heroic treatment was necessary. The gown was taken to a French modiste and, under her nimble fingers, it soom became new again—and better than new. Around the foot of the skirt she placed & very deep trimming of black lace. The lace was coarse and was not more than three inches wide, so that it was neces- sary to put it on‘in scroll fashion, leav- ing great open scrolls or ovals. The pat- tern when completed reached to the knees. Then, in the big open scroll-like places the French modiste embroidered flowers,. choosing big roses with stems and leaves. Of course, she did the work quickly and cleverly, appliqueing a rose here and there and working the leaves and stems by hand. When completed this gown was one of the handsomest of the middle sum- mer. An Innocent Little Device. There is & very innocent device which is being practiced by the girl who likes to look pretty, as well as by the girl who wants to catch a beau. And this is the device of the flowered hat. Hats are worn wreathed with blooms this season, and it is a very wise girl who will provide her- self with a French wreath—as these wreaths are called—made of almost every flower that grows. A Newport girl who owns a black chip hat, with low crown and spreading brim, possesses a wreath of small pink roses; she also has one of roses of exaggerated size, tapering to small roses at the back. Besides these she has a thick, heavy rope of violets ready to be thrown around the hat, and she has wreaths of branching orchids, of trailing hyacinths and of masses of the most brilllant scarlet gera- niums. With half a dozen wreaths snugly put away in her trunk she is able to trim a hat at & minute’'s notice. By taking out a wreath, winding It around a hat and se- curing it with pins, she has at once a new hat. It is the thing to match your hat to your costume, or your costume to your hat, and no self-respecting summer wom- an will fail to do this. To make the matter easier and the cos- tume more complete, she can match her sash ribbons to her hat and her parasol to both. A chou of the same fastened primly to the front of the fichu fini the very neat aspect of this summe galia. The Back of the Gown. A summer dress that has seen the bright days of May, the verdant d ot June and the high suns of July is apt to show | the earmarks of x t gives out In varlous pla showing shrinkages here and faded s there, while a pulled and drawn look s that it has suffered something from showers. The plaited or the tucked skirt is not so liable to give out early in er as is the skirt with the habit baec! r the habit back. ‘being pilain, will not admit of shrinkages, an being without trim- wornout marks with ming it ays startling distinctness. But the clever modis way to fi er the it back, and the summer woman can avail hesself of it, thereby bringing herself into pessession of one of the prettiest gowns of the year. Suppose the gown is a navy blue zibe- line, or suppose it is a tobacco brown velling, or suppose it to be & gray go either cloth or silk. The skirt Is habit back, smooth, perfect in i, but out of order from the fact that it is shabby. The only thing now for the woman who wants a new gown Is to purchase some taffeta to exactly match the goods. Then let her rip the skirt down the middle of the back and lay a box plait of taffeta across the opening. Or she can make two plaits and lay them side by side down the middle of the back. This gives her a very new and entirely up-to-date gown and one that will have a very chio ap- pearance. A good dressmaker will take the skirt that has gone a little to seed and will trim 1t very prettily with narrow bands of ribbon, put on so that they rise a little at the back, but dip In the front. These bands of ribbon, if tastefully arranged, will simulate a Spanish flounce and make & very neat looking skirt, especially if the material be a thin goods. The summer lawns, the organdies, the zibelines, the canvases and all the t summer goods are made extremely pretty by the application of small Oriental fig ures, done in embroidery. Little embroid- ered designs in every color under the sun are pressed flat into the goods and caugh by invisible stitches.. Now, w clever fingers, the summer woman goes over the whole with a rugning embroidery st b connecting the figures with long, graceful designs. * It 1s a season for the woman who knows how to use her needle, and all things can be decorated with this tiny do- mestic weapon. From the tops of glov which must be embroidered in tiny flow- ers, to the insteps of stockings, which are picked out with idery designs, there are pretty possibilities for the woman who knows how to stitch. The bea atching girl mast not forget the value of the flounce, for, worn around the foot of the summer gown, it is one of the most attractive features of dress. A scant lace flounce, very deep, and slightly em broidered so as to s design plainly, is as charming an article of dress as 1lq be found In the summer w robe. Nor need the flo e be an expensive one, for with the imitation laces there are s lovely things which cost so little that the summer woman can surely manage to have a flounce or two in her summer trunk, es have found a