The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 10, 1903, Page 14

THE SUNDAY CALL. of figure, louger a question ple enogh nd it. The and ¥ the b to reduce s were called into active was bound tightly ab: v a little row - was supposed to give siz the re figure w places where fiesh weuld srse,” that simply, couid s s these days! The &n z v with the birds golf or covering the a et alone any grace, incased ' - which i . 2 a support must have . soul s ex ure may . i certainly 1t tried tion 1 e utmost to think womer e =0 foolish: but tne » was yet to come. It suddenly be = possess eighteen- and while they were dread tended to give one a that there was made, and e gere e who simy ta b »ops, 50 ke - n looks like Ally 1 . B wi s & i et und 1 very and it actur that alike me vise tured v ted and t that is alie Why, the wor b be s They w cculd tell them w 2. yel did Dot squeeze; what rrected a bad Hne and w most of s casy snd pliable to wear. They emanded a something upon which health @ ed grace of motion, a of vital orgaus, mucles and nerves and the ¥ ize of the body. vman is perfectly at ease nor is she s charming when con ous that she is pot becomingly gowned. She real- izes th ie i5 not making a favorable impression, and is, in consequence, in- wardly at war with herself for being caught in such a predicament. 1f there ts one thing above another in the almost unlimited little nothings that count so inexpressibly, it is the feeling that the shot rs are siooped, that ungaily lines are plainly visible, and worst of all, that the abdomen is too prominent. Be it thoroughly understood that these unpleasant things are entirely unneces- sary in this enlightened da and that the st woman fold her hamds and count herself blessed. For the womau who bas large hips the belt corset has been especlaily designed. Tt has a straight front and is short at the top and very long at the bottom. From the front steel it runs almost straight for a few inches and then darts well over the hips in a rounded shape. Weil over the hips does not mean an inch or two over as the college girl'’s girdle crosses the walstline, but far enough down to entirely cover the hip socket. In order to retain its snug appearance and to prevent the corset from wrinkling in the slightest, a garter is placed over each hip and two in the front, which are naturally fastened to the stockings in a snug fashion and keep the corset beautifully in place, To look at the long-hip corset wouid be almost as much as one would care to do at first, for they have a formidable ap- pearance, particularly if a short corset bas been worn, but they cover the hip PIrOTE? B> 7 TANTOLRD TIPS smoothly and are far too low to show even the slightest suspicion of a ridge. By the way, very few fine models are made with ordinary bones and steels which snap every time one bends a frac- tion of an inch too much. Instead double aluminoid boning is used, promised by its makers to be unbreakable, and yet so flexible that it will not set in sharp angles. But really that is neither here nor there as long as the belt does all it says it will, for there is scarcely a woman on this great green earth who would begrudge money spent on an article that prevented a rolling up of flesh over|the edges and that naturally reduced theé\beight of her stomach by being very jort from the walstline up. * But the stout lady is not the only one who can reflect with satisfaction, for every angle and every shape that women have fallen neir to have been carefully considered. The Americans would do well to take a lesson from their French sisters sin this one thing. No matter how plainly a girl may be gowned or how inexpensive the material may be, she always looks chic and somewhat like a fashion plate. She would no more dream of entering a shop and buying a corset from a counter. Just because it chanced to be marked o255 n and was cheap than she would tbink of flying. Not she. If she cannot afiord to have them made, and really it is not so dreadfully extravagaat after all, us they wear about twice the time an wary one would, she g m determination to put « pair the place, and to walk out empty wded if she fails to find something that cxactly suits her. For the effect of every depends first upon the siays which to be fitted over. in with the princess hip curve mold eases the over the pit of the stomach, giving edom instead of applying pressure in The waistline curve : buck and supports the correct position that makes one naturally erect, and a good carrfage is one of the tirst and all important requisitions of a in sharply at spine iu the There | reducer another corset called the * that will be popular with a cer- it very materially lends en everything else seems to fail. It is a heavily boned long-hipped affair with extra pi sewed Just over the hips for a very short garter, Lut the growning idea is a piece of soft but heavy material let in on the front side seam and that extends toward the center of the corset. When pulled toward the center, just as you would fasten a belt with one of the new belt pins, it draws the stomach well down and when snugly hooked compels it to stay in its new position, Of course, a great deal depends upon the adjustment of the corset, quite as miuch, in fact, as the shape and fit, for what would one be without the other? A cur- istance W on Z - ’ FREDICER S set, properly speaking, should be fas- tened in front entirely unlaced, but as we are not all blessed with maids, it Is _quite out of the question. No matter whether we are accustomed to doing all things for business or not, we can, at least, have the lace very loose and can pull the corset well down, working the body up, until it sets in well at the waist. Then lace snugly at the waistline, always leav it loose at top and avold lacing more than to comfortably hold the hips bottom. Many fi at ers advise using two strings and some even three, but they are more or less of a nuisance as they ‘are eter- ing tangled up. When two are eet a little below the walst- ch one may be drawn In as lit- tle or as much as one pleases, as is the case when one long lace is used, making a loop at the walstline, as many people are advocating just at present. If you are not absolutely certain as to whether or not your corset Is on properly, place your head, shoulders, hips and heels against the wall, holding the body stiff, then slightly forward from the nalty swing e e e e e oot CORSETY FROM TOFE ROLSENBERC BRI R R R RN Some Dainty Vanties for the ankle joints. Tf you feel as though your g up and anding out you can be corset was rid too much abc very sure tha in the first place, and that it ok a great deal better and, what is more to the point, give you a better poise. Fortuntely, there are few don'ts for us to remember, but this one is a good one, not only to think of but to p: actual practice. Neéver wear your clothing too tight to be able to fill your lungs slowly and fully from the bottom, for just as sure as you do you will sueceed in having a walst too sma'" to be in good proportion with the rest of your body, and in all probability you will have a beautiful red se—the bughear of all women. t it was not Summer Debutante. MON color, peach color, plum + color, cherry color and orange are all shades which are$sought by the debutante in her first season, and wear them in vell- ing, in mousseline, in peau de sole, in the liberty fabrics and in the panne stuffs. Let the debutante remember that all fab- rics are open to her and that she will look well in anything providing it be sult- ably made. As for the so-called which reached such a height of fanc dress, the debutante can easil a dress, using some the purpose, and 1f she so desires she can take a yard of lace and make a strip of jeweled "lace such as selis for $40 or 0. getting it all up for a very small percentage of that sum. And then there are the flet laces with which the debutante can do so much. Applications of fllet lace three inches wide can be made to the skirt of a gown, and on this filet lace there can be applicd diamonds of black velvet with a littie border of white taffeta around each dia- mond. Or if the debutante be very industrious she can take and make a darned lace and can place contrastiiig lace butterflies upon can jewelod gowns, have now in even “jewe for delicate beads this and pepper the whole with French knots. It seems to be largely a matter of handiwork apd handicraft, and the de- butante can come into her own if she be willing to work for it. Skirts and their flounces afford a sub- ject for deep study to the debutante. Now that the extremely tight skirt has gone out, or is going out, and the skirt with a few tucks around the hips is iu, or the skirt with many gores, the de- butante can turn her attention to the foot of the skirt, which perennlaliy bothers the lovers of nice dress. For evening one of the latest and pret- tiest fancies declares for the deep foot flounce of lace, which is put on not as a flounce, but as-a deep border. This may be as high as the knees and made of all- over Insertion; or it may be a very deep band of very fine lace. It all depends upon the style of the gown. It is considered very smart to line tke dresses with fine white lawn or muslin in- stead of silk, and the debutante can em- broider this lining should time hang heavy on her hands. Just for her coming-out day the debu- tante should wear white, and a pretly style is one that provides a gown of white mousseline trimmed, say, with a very soft white lace. The gown, which is decollete, can have one of those new deep collars upon it, all of lace, deep enough to fall over the shoulders and fastened to the breast in front with a chou of chiffon. The debutante should not wear pearls, for pearls mean tears, unless, indeed, they be her birth or her lucky stomes; nor should she wear opals or opalescent col- ors. None of the debutante’s gowns are made In these tones. Should the debutante prefer she cam wear a most charming color combination, which begins with a gown of white tat- feta, decollete, and is provided with rath- er flowing elbow sleeves. A deep girdle of rose color is worn with this gown, and there is a rose chou upon her breast. Should the debutante want & hand-em- broldered gown, then, Indeed, are all the fabrics of the world spread at her feety for there is nothing which cannot be em- broidered by hand and with the very best results. It is the thing now to take something very fine, a batiste or a lawn or some thing even more webby, and to embroidea it with white silk flowers until the whole seems like some bit of Orfentalism too delicate to stand the test of time, yet too pretty ever to be destroyed. Oh, it takes time to get up one of these hand-em~- broidered gowns. But it does not cost much money, and the debutante who will take the time and spend her eyesight cam bave something altogether charming. Dame fashion rather demands that the debutante shall wear her hair low on her presentation day, but she is willing that it should be high afterward. This gives the debutante a chance to change her ap- pearance a bit and to look girlish the day of her coming out, but fully fledged om every occasion thereafter. There is a little trick In the dressing of the hair, and nobody knows it more thor= oughly than does the woman of fashion. The bangled wrists are thoroughly “In,<™ and long pendants dangle over the knuckles as well as over the very finger tips; for, with the fad for Orfentalism there has come in a bangle that is all chains, and like a prisoner does my lady jingle as she talks with her fair hands. Such a charming picture is created by the woman who matches her Oriental jewelry, her bangles and her necklace to the jeweled trimmings of her gown, for she can create an impression such as she could get in no other possible way. But these things pertain more or less to high life, and the woman of domestio instincts and little money is apt to ex- claim: “But how does this apply to me? And how can I govern my dress rules ac- cordingly?’ To this there can be made the reply that, in order to dress intelli- gently on a limited inecome, one must be able to understand the novelties as they come out, to know all the new fashions, “to appreciate each small style, to be in touch with the world of dr —_————— There are several species of fish rep- tiles and Insects which never sleep dur- ing their stay in the worid. Among fish it is now positively known that pike, sal- mon and golfish never sleep at all, also that there are several others in the fish family that never sleep more than a few minutes a month. There are dozens of species of flies which never indulge fn slumbers, and from three to five species of serpents which also never sieep.