The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 11, 1903, Page 10

They May Be Attained by Careful Attention to Details— Boft, Sinuous Curves May Also Be Cultivated—Correct Proportions for Arms—Some- thing About Sleeves Which Reveal in Tantalizing Fashion What They Profess to Hide. i | 1902, by the 8. B. McCiure Company.) nt, ILL you have arms as white as milk and smooth as satin? Or will you cause your filmy Paris evening gown to blush the contrast between its their lack of beauty? beautiful &rms are nature's may also be cultivated. Ac- s and sculptors perfect ¥ ven to women, but, as see those that appear very conclude that inartistio ealed by the drapery and that, even if the curve does not conform to beauty's law, s arms may be made of satin £moo ess and of alabaster whiteness y careful attention to details ce in & while a student of arms will come mcross a beautiful palr that might belong to & Gr statue. Every line i exquisite in fineness, exactly modeled of expression and the outer curve shoulder has a virginal daintiness v This is the clas- for snd poetical & arn, never know just how 1s of the Venus de Milo they must have be aples at the elbows; roundness and delicious g from famous statues t ave & round and flowing outiine o sharpness at the elbow it taper gently down to a small e arm one statue the proportions are as llows Inches. arm from shoulder tips 2 of arm from elbow....13 arm from eibows to 512 If the arm is not sufficiently developed to reach the standard of beauty, if it is e blanched and er pipestem, try dumb-bells or Indian clubs. Swing the e upraised, a weight in each hand, backward and forward. in turn out at right y. While holding one osition carry the other one holding the ¢lub or dumb- L cross the shoulde then across the lower part of the back. These are excellent exercises for mold- ing the arms into form and beauty. if 1t is not convenient to get a weight to hold in the hand, grasp the imaginary dumb-bell and extend the arms horison- tally at the side. Then move them siow- iy forward until the closed hands touch, keeping the hands about on a level with the shouilders. Return them, not only to position, but es far back as possible without lowering e hands and arms beneath the level of the shoulders. Allow the body to sway forward when the arms go back, but do not duck the head, nor allow the body to bend at the waist. ke a deep inhalation while the arms lryxlendtd @t the side and move the e head, ack, T ASheGvER” arms slowly forward and back before ex- haling. ‘Use some force while goin through these movements. Don’t act like & lily broken at the stem. There are many other movements for molding the arms. Raise them high in front, stiff and straight, and let them fall; repeat five or | 2ix times. Let them form an arch above the head, | raising them slowly from the sides, first | it the palms out, then with the palms | Double the forearm until it rests upon the upper arm, bringing the tips of the fingers, palms up, upon the shoulders. Then join the palms in front with arms outstretched, and stretch them backward as far possible. Repeat each of these movements several times. Close the fists with vigor and twist the hands and arms es far around as possi- | ble, the elbows remaining stiff, and the upper part of the arms unmoved. The arms should be on a line with the shoul- der. The next step to be taken in securing perfeot arms is to see that they are smooth and white. When washing the arms the water should be tepld rain wa~ ter, and the soap the best that can be secured. If a.perfumed soap is preferred, use that which is scented with roses, | violets or verbenas. The soap should be well rubbed into the skin with a loofah or bath mitten. When the arm has been rinsed In fresh water the well-soaped loofah should be used until the skin is slightly red and glow- ing. All the soap should then be washed off in perfectly clear water, and the arm h BLOPHENTT 7 dried on a soft, dry towel. This process must be gone through once a day at least; twice a day would be better. When the arms are quite dry they should be gently massaged with the fingers for a few minutes, If the skin is very rough and red use @ il an emollient when massaging. A good one is made of 3 ounces of oil of sweet almonds, 5 drams of white wax, 10 drams of rose water, 2 drams tincture of be zoin, 1 ounce of honey, and 1 dram e sence of rose, Melt the wax in a ouble bofler and slowly add the oil of sweet almonds. Then remove from fire and add other ingr ents, one by ane, stirring all the while. If the arms, persistently remain rough and red, another emollient’ may be used occasfonally with good effect.” This is equal parts of cocoa butter, white wax and oil of sweet almonds. It is prepared by melting the wax and while still warm adding the other two Ingredients. This must be well rubbed into the skin until it is absorbed. Almond paste and heney may also be used with good effect. Almond paste is made by pounding In a mortar 1 ounce of blanched bitter almonds and 1 ounce of common starch. Then beat in the yolks of 2 eggs, % pint spirits of wine and 10 drops of attar of rose. The arms, the neck and the shoulders also may Le treated to a cream bath, as it is called. After a thorough washing with soap and warm water spongo the skin with rum and ice-cold rose water in cqual quanti- ties. Rum gives tone to the flesh and makes it feel delightfully satiny to the touch. Then with a loofall go over every inch of the flesh until it glows and tin- gles. It is the flesh brush that quickens blood vessels into action and revives cir- culation. Follow this with a thorough massage with a cream much used by Oriental wo- men, called Mecca balsam: Oil of white poppy. Oil of sweet almond: White wax. Spermacet] Rose water Mecca balsam Melt the wax and spermacet! in a double boiler. Remove from the fire and while still warm add the oil of poppy and al- monds and beat together until they cream. TTHD ARM WL SHOW THROUGHM THE, To |HIDE 1T * Then add the balsam and the rosewater. Put into a porcelain jar and cover with a little rosewater. Violet-water may be substituted for rosewater if preferred. It a powder is ever desired for the arms and neck, make one by pounding in a mortar starch and a trifle of alum—say half a t sonful of alum to half a pound of sto Sift through a thin muslin cloth. Before powGering the arms take a little glycerine and lemon julce and with the palm of the hand rub it in, and keep ru ing untll the skin no louger feels sticky. Dust over with a little powder and give a final rub with a soft chamolis leather. ch There is a dressmaking trick for round- Ing out arms which is worth considering. Ma women have the upper arm too short in proportion to the forearm. Hers comes In the wise and clever modiste and cuts out the back of the armhoies of a sleeveless frock and borrows enough to make up the deficiency from the shoulder. This borrowing rounds the upper arms, and so brings down two birds with one stone. There are s’eves and sleeves—no s'eeves and half sleeves—hut always with a sug- gestion that makes the arm of beauty not a barren figure of speech The old saying that beauty unadorned is adorned the most is improved on, where arms are concerned, by the subtle expres- sion. “Beauty half concealed is doubly suggeste A sleeve may be cut off just at the el- bow and finished with chiffon, which shows faintly in tantalizing fashion what it professes to hide. This gives the owner a wrist which is prettier than the upper arm, and a chance to display its beauties to the admiring multitude or elect few. A realizing sense of the possibilitles of sleeves as settings for arms 1s slowly dawning for woman. It is well to remember that movements of the arm give either awkwardness or grace to the person. Keeping the elbows away from the side in a shdrp angle is very ungraceful and the habit of cross- ing the arms on the chest or putting the Marvels of Londen’s Milk Supply ONE save those directly interested lfil’[ in the trade have the remotest j idea of the vast quantity of milk consumed in London in the course of & year, sald the manager of a well-known firm to the writer recentlg. Within the Iast ten years the annual consumption of milk in London alone has increased by 18,000,000 galloys, and now stands at ap- proximately 160,000,000 gallons a day. Until 1865 London was responsible for its own milk supply, but the great cattle plagiie of that year made it necessary for inetropolitan dealers to send to the outlylng counties for their milk, thus open'ng up a market for dairy farmers within 150 miles of London, which has been increasing by leaps and bounds. At preseat more than 30,000 hands find per- maneat employment in providing London with milk, while over 2000 milkmen go their ~ounds morning and evening deliver- ing it in pints, Juarts or gallons, as the case 11ay be. The milk for London's breakfast fs milked the night) before and churned ready for the night mail. It begins to ar- rive at its destination at 2 a. m., and a steady supply is kept up until 10 or 11, al- though the majority of dealers have been supplied by 4 a. m. At midday the morn- ing milkings come in and a gradual stream of churns is poured into London up_till 8 o'clock, all of which have to be duly emptied, cleansed and sent back by the late trains. To prove that this is no light task it may be said that a large firm will have 5000 churns in use, divided into three portions. Each churn therefors reaches them once in three days, costs 2§ shillings and has an average life of from two to four years, according to the length of the journey. The metropolis 1§ net entirely dependent upon the country for its milk, however. There are about 15,000 cows in London ‘which produce between them 7500 gallons of milk a'day, but the capacities of the dairy farmier in or near the city are some~ what curtatled. Furthermore, the author- itles are very strict as to cleanliness, and will only grant licenses for cowsheds which are perfectly drained, roomy and well ventilated. It 18 held that the milk supply of Lon- don 1s the best in the world as regards cleanliness. It has nearly 300 public in- spectors to analyze it, while all the large firms. employ private inspectors to see that the supplies are delivered by their milkmen untampered with. Every churn after being used is cleaned by steam driven into it with the force of sixty pounds to the square inch, which cleanses the receptacle more thoroughly than any- thing else could do. Without becoming too statistical, it is interesting to note that a canal six feet six inches wide, four feet deep and half a mile long would be necessary to hold all the milk that comes into London every day, and as a gallon of the fluld weighs ten pounds its total weight would be 715 tons. Or if every milkman brought s three-gallon pail of milk into the metrop- olis dally no fewer than 54,00 milkmen would be required, and standing in line they would form a procession thirty-four miles long. OLEEVE WHICH PROFESSED hands In the jacket pockets o detracts from feminine attraction. There are numerous women who are noted for their beantiful and expressive arms. Some are soclety women and some are stage queens. At one time Sarah Bernhardt's arms were almost as noted as her acting, al- though her proportions are by no means statuesque, if statues have to verge t ward portliness, as seems to be generally agreed. Emma Eames has classically perfect arms. Lilllan Russell has.a rounded arm, firm and strong, the arm which is likely to b long to a: full-throated woman, still love- ly. although past girlhood, but not past queendom. Answers to Correspondents. Geraldine.—To prepare oatmeal bags to use in the bath water. make several little bags of cheesecloth, and put In each about two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal. Throw one of these bags into the wash basin, and when the water becomes milky by squeez- ing the bag use it for both face and hands. The same bag may be used three or four times. An egg shampoo is an excellent thing. It makes the halr bright and glossy. Once a month is often enough tor a thorough shampoo. The fol- lowing is a good tonic for the hair: Mrs. Harry M Sulphur of quinine... 20 grain: Fiuid extract of jaborandi 2 dram: Glycerine .................... 1 dram, Tincture of nux vom 1 dram. Castor ofl 1 oz Bay rum 3 ozs Use once a week rubbing it Into the scalp, after you have given head and hair a thorough brushing. Maybeile.—To develop the calf of the leg spend ten or twenty minutes every night and morning, with shoes and stock- irgs removed, practicing heel and tos movements. This is good for the circula- tlon too, and the best thing you can do it you happen to suffer with cold feet. Raise the heels quickly from the ground and stand as high on tiptoe as possible; then lower the heels with moderate speed without tipping the weight of the body backward. For «¢he next movement keep the heels on the floor and lift alternately the balls of the feet and put them down with some force, one foot moving up as the other moves down. For another exer- cise bend the knee, lift the leg slowly up- ward and forward until hip and knee ars bent at right angles. The instep should be stretched so that the toes point down- ward, the knee pointing sideways, for- ward. These exercises bring into play all the muscles of the lower limbs. C. M.—To remove blackheads, first press them out and then hold on cloths wrung out of hot water containing powdered borax, one teaspoonful borax to one pint of water. Then wash the face well with clear, tepld water and apply any good cold cream. Camphor ice is good. Twice a week Instead of cold cream apply dis- tilled witch hazel Mrs. C.—For your little girl's hair use a very soft brush, and brush both scalp and hair thoroughly and carefully at least twice a day, massaging it with tepid ‘water several times during the week to make the scalp glow. If the hair does not curl naturally try doing it up on soft rolls of cloth. I would not use a curling fluid. This will make it stay longer in curl, but-it is not good for a child's hair, If on extra occasions, when she is going to & party or to have one of her own, you want her halr to remain in curl for a lergth of time, Instead of moistening with clear water before doing it up use one- third dlcohol to two-thirds water. Use a hair tonlc once a week, rubbing it well into the scalp. One ounce of sweet ofl, four ounces bay rum and one dram tinc- ture of cantharides is the best tonic. I would not rub clear lemon juice on the skin, but dfluted with water it is good to remove freckles, that are not deep seated. Clear lemon juice may also be used to remove stains from the fingers, but you must wash your hands after- ward. M. J. B.—As you kindly write, “T can walt .until you get time to reply, so don't hurry,” I have taken advantage of this, but hope you have not been thinking th your nots was ov vlexion follow ad and then write again wi and let me know the res of this treat- ment. The following is a good emollient to apply, instead of camphor ice: One-half ounce ofl of sweet almonds, ten drops tine- ture of benzoin and one dram rose water. I am pleased that former advice has Eelped you. “This is the third time I have troubled you you write. Dom’t think you are troubling me by requesting advice. I am glad to help you if I can. H. H—For chilblains there is noth better than one teaspoonful powde alum to one pint of water. Sponge the feet with this dally until cured, but de not bathe or soak the fect In water cone taining alum. There i3 another remedy for chilblains that I can give you: Spirits of camphor. . 2 drams Ofl of rosemary % dram Oil of turpentine.. . 4 drams Sponge the feet off with this. The alum and water remedy is better, however. G. C.—For a double ch en or twenty min fcrefingers of both hands and rotate outward or toward the shoul- ¢ers, kneading deeply. Then place & bandage saturated with an astringent un der the chin and tfe on top of the head Do this at night, of course. One-half ounce powdered alum me pint water makes an astringent ation. Antoinette.—“Do you think that the tws cups cause of coffes I the drink every morning yellowish tint to my com- I must offer an apology for you with the personal difficul- of some one you 4o not know and are not Interested in.” Let me say In the first place that T am interested in you and in all who seek my aid and I hope,you will write freely and as often as you need help while treading the primrose path of beauty. The coffes may help to impart an undesirable tint to your complexion—th if you take it before giving it up—for the cup of coffes in the morning is above everything the cup that cheers— look to the diet in other ways. Do not take rich foods, nor sweets, but plenty of fruit; stewed prunes or oranges in the morning, apples at night. They ald diges- tior. and with the digestive apparatus in §00d order the skin should be clear. Take a charcoal tablet every day for a week and at the end of that time a dose of epsom salts. An aperient is always nec- essary after taking charcoal. ———————————— POLYGLOT INDIA. Twenty-eight languages are spoken in India, and none of these is spoken by fewer than 400,000 persons, while the most general is the mother tongue, of 35,500,000, Besides these there are in the remotest parts of the country dialects spoken by no more than 500 person8, which none oth- er than themselves can interpret. India has nine great creeds, numbering thelr followers from the 208,000,000 Hindoos down to the 9,250,000 Animistics and the innumerable sects included in the Cothers.” “3