The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 2, 1902, Page 7

THE SUNDAY CALL ifié‘éfi'ga%‘{%x%fl‘é‘p"s‘%fi%sfi_ o ED WITH DE E‘DKCE-ED W YLA¥§? FLAT HAT ISTEIMM PLAID SILK » L ¥ YOU CAN CHOOSE BE- TWEEN A CLOTH AND A SILX, BUT YOU MUST HAVE IT BUILT ON THE NEW ENGLISH MODEL, BIG IN THE SLEEVES, COLLAR AND BELT-THE LADY NAYLOB-LEYLAND SUIT— WINTER GOWNS OF FASH- ION’S LEADERS. * 3 ADY NAYLOR-LEYLAND, the American woman who is reported engaged to Lord Rosebery, has set the style in winter suits. Hers is an English tallor made, showing ‘wide sleeves, & deep collar and a pointed belt. When you go out to buy your winter suit you will notice that there are certain mew features which are conspicuously noticeable In al e winter costumes. The most 1 1t of these features is the sleeve, for re is no chance that part of the waist will become quies- nt. On the contrary, the sleeve grows and moves from woman's sphere to mar ere and from period to period. To- it is n will be the s have the ni old mutton. Then will come the watteau, then the pagoda, then the g sleeve and the Doll Varden, and thén—goodness knows w ow look- played winter see one co n the very next window there will be almost its t opposite. A Style That Suits You. 1 notice that all sleeves in the lower arm, are tight somewhere, haps the quff, and in very A\,qy Or § ightness is right at arranged in such a appears to be very deep L you pay your money your choice of sleeves, and nything that suits your you are large in the . eve that right bags t r every time you drop you will look very bouffant abdomen. will notice another bright note in and that is in the e marvelously cut and om one to six, for the collars are in. Then there n collar, which is cut so ooks like a S8andow across ders, and quite the opposite of is the tall one with the long, it revers which somehow s a woman and makes her look should be one It should first winter suit | wear ail winter long. apted to walking and to calling, ar should be suited for church wear utility purpose. For a to a general t ou can get one of the new ma- or you can cling to the old ones suit is one of these nicely i, strapped and made with cape collars, sleeve puffs and a ted up in the back and down in a homespun etamine which is It is thin, something like the tamine, but it has the rough e e of the homespun. This goods stand rain and shine, and, while it is not warm, it can be made warm. The English Winter Suit. In selecting a winter suit, get a goods which is good to the hand, for nothing ALES ¢ AVVIDES WHITH OF DAWRK. QY R’-“ is more d:sagreeable than a suit which dces not feel comfortable to the fingers. There are women who on this account never wear velvet, for it sets the teeth And there others annot endure the rough- s of serge. Indeed it ix owing to the agreeable “feel” of certain rough ma- terials that the great vogue for the satin cloth has come in, and the fact that the satin cloth is pleasant to the hand as well as lustrous to the eye accounts for its wonderful popularity. In making up this winter suit choose a very good lining, and sooner than use a poor silk, get a percaline. The London tailors are making the winter costume without lining, but if you do this you must take a very good material, for poor zoods will soon -pull out, as though eazy, if unlined. You can make up your dress with a waist which suggests the skirt waist pattern. If you do so, follow ihe blouse ines, and finish the front with a box plait, which comes from the chin to the belt’ buckle. You can trim the yoke and the tops of the sleeves with very wide bands of Hercules braid. 3 If you desire to so treat your - winter suit, you can have the skirt made with three deep flounces. You can fashion it like the circular skirt with flounces a foot deep, or you can have one flounce around the bottom and a trimming above it. They take serge and box plait it so that there is a box plait in front, one on each side and one in the back. The waist can be made a blouse with a braid- ed front and very full sleeves. If you prefer a two-plece suit to wear with a_ shirt waist—and this i{s really a very sensible style—you can cut the coat a blager, or as an Eton. In Etons there are still many chapters to be written, for they change constantly and continually, and of thé making of ons there is no end. The New Winter Coats. The latest Eton, the very latest, is dcuble breasted. It is cut V shape in the meck, V shaped in the back, and there are double lapels, one deeper than the other, all double breasted. The sleeves have two capes at the top, and the Eton itself has a frill falling below the belt In front, thus suggesting a di- rectaire. on edge, as they will tell you. are vho YOUu THE. LATEST VELV SUIT WITH CHINE.SE'.ET COAT AND WIDE. SLEEVE.: | & Then there is an Eton which ig very nice and which makes a nice winter gar- ment. It is fastened in the back, as so many winter coats are, while the front is laid in folds to below the bust, where the Eton is cut off. The shirt waist in this case is made with a full, baggy effect over the front of the belt. If you do not want to do anything ex- treme when making up your winter coat, you can choose the little, sensible Eng- lish coat, .straight front and back, and a little longer than the hips. Make it dou- Lle breasted and button 1t with velvet buttons. You can have a turnover velvet collar’ and the skirt can be trimmed with velvet bands put on in V shape, zigzag all around the skirt. Tour bands of grad- uated widths can be used. The Oxford coat will be very much worn for wintér. It has a box pleat each side of the front, and there is a belt pointed in the back and pointed in the front. This Oxford is becoming te almost any woman under the sun, for it gives a youthful appearance to_the figure. The slender woman is delightful in it, and even the fat woman is passable. The fat woman’s troubles are lessened by the season’s style, for many of them are bulit just for her, and for this she will be devoutly glad. There is for her an English jogging suit, which suggests the daily constitutional, The fat woman’'s jogging suit is made with the Oxford coat and cloth belt. The, skirt is two Inches from the street. It is fitted to the hips and closely fitted to the figure all the way to the knees. But here be careful, oh, fat woman! And be- lcw the knees it flares by natural cut. Really the woman with no figure at all, éither too much or too little, looks nice in the trim tallored suits of this winter and she who always thinks of herself with a sigh can make a gown of etamine heniespun in any one of the nice little rew fashions and look extremely well, In the dressier materials come the fam- ily of silks and a silk gown tailor made is exquisitely neat and adaptable to all oceasions. Nice for All Occasions. If you want a pretty winter sult that will 1ook nice all winter long and be suit- uble for any occasion, or for mdst emer- gencies, get a changeable taffeta looking navy blue. As you glance across it you Ml!, | will get a suggestion of automobile red, and if you get in the right light there will be a little goldenrod vellow visible. These three colors in taffeta are very good, and a taffeta dress of the changeable kind makes up beautifully. Trim it, if so please you, with bands of cloth, stitched in three stitchings along each edge, or trim it with stitched bands of silk. You can take these bands and graduate them in length and trim the skirt and the coat with them. Nothing makes a preftier trimming than the stitched band used as a panel, and half a dozen paneled bands on the coat arranged diagonally at each side of the front make a beautiful finish. The skirt can be trimmed either by placing the band around the foot only, hecause It serves as a protection as well as dec- oration, or by zigzagging them around the skirt. Cutting the Silk Waist. In making up the bodice there is no prettier design than the shirt waist. If you have a heart to do it, you can cut your silk right after your ehirt. walst pattern, suppesing of course that you have an up-to-date pattern. It will e full in front, broad across the hust, closed across the back, and tight fitting every- where excepting in the lower sleeves, o < WORTH YOUR ATTENTON. | Some novels are better than others;*The Leopard’s Spots,” by Thomas Dixon Jr., is one of these. It is a book that is proving the sensation of the day. Buy it in the bookstore and it will cost you §1 50—get it with your Supday Call and it will not cost you a cent extra. The first part of this splendid novel will appear in The Sunday’ Call of November 9—out next Sunday. Here is a book that you cannot afford to miss! -+ ST THIAVE .should be dark PRINCESS PR SNy TREEY BORDER. OF FAESHRT the upper cdllar and the lower front of the waist. The winter shirt waist patterns that could be adapted to silk are those that have three folds down the front, and -the folds could be stitched bands of silkc or stitched bands of cloth. Another one is the double-breasted front with the fasten- ings, consisting of buttons and loops of braid, and a scalloped outline for the opening. A very handsome model for the bodice of the silk dress has strappings of silk put on diagonally across the front and interlacing like a lattice. An embroidered silk waist Is very elegant, and it is the fashion now to embroider one side and not the other. The middle of the front is tucked, with the tuckings flanked by the embroldery pattern. In choosing a winter sult, no matter whether it be silk or cloth, select some- thing dark, for remember that it must be worn a long time, and there are dull days of winter when the bright colors do not seem exactly suitable. You may have the hat gay, and you can have bright acces- scries to the dress, but the background in a sort of harmonie sympathy with things, The New Winter Skirts. There are no dresses now with loose hips, for.even the box plaits are fitted to the hips, and there are no skirts gathered on the bands. For if this style of skirt is desired the skirt is laid in little plaits, and the plaits are stitched down to make them very flat. While it is a great deal of trouble to construct the new skirt it looks very well after it Is made, and it wears a long time. If fitted and plain in the upper part there is nothing strikingly .distinct- ive about theé skirts of the year, and so they do not go ‘“out” as- quickly as though they were novelties, such as the accordion plaited, the shirred, the tucked and the ruffled. "Tucked skirts are, of course, very styl- ish, but when they are worn the tucks are stitched down so that you cannot really tell but they are plalts. A silk gown which might be deseribed as stunning was worn by the Prineess Troubetzkoy, who was Miss Amelie Rives. It was designed by the Prince, Ler artist husband, and its material was changeable black taffeta. It looked all colars in different lights. The skirt was a box plaited one with the box plaits so arranged that they seemed to fall straight to the floor from her slender figure. Truly they must have been stitched underneath and restitched, for they lay so flat. At the back there was a box plait which was perfectly level, 80 to speak, with the goods, and it ex- tended right straight from the belt out to the tip of the long train. The sieeves were tucked at the top so that’ they hugged the arm, while below they were lined and stiffened to make them balloon-like. The waist had strap- pings of peau de sole down the-front, and the yoke was outlined with three inds of brald, a narrow silk braid, a chenille and a little beaded passementerie braid. ' The bralds were put on in points, with the points rather large and dashing at each side.” Then the yoke was covered with an intertwining of narrow hrald which stiffened it and made a nice pat- tern. The collgr, which lay down, was in the tan color cloth trimmed with na row braid, and thefe was a nice little stand-up collar, looking very much like a stock, with a natty little bow under the chin. Strange Mixtures. You will find a strange mixing of the tailor made with the fluffy and a sudden old streak of severity in thg softest of sowns. Braid, which is the connecting link be- tween winter and summer, and chiffon, which is also used in summer and winter, and the stock, which prevails at all sea- gons, are responsible for the likeness be- tween the fluffy summer gown and the severe winter one. You will notice that the silks are made up in tailored designs, and that the tailor- made satin dress is no novelly. Neck ruching of lace and chiffon are attached to cloth collars, and that cloth collars, almost as deep as capes, are worn over silk dresses. Mrs, Payne Whitney- wears a lovely black™ taffeta with the ‘five-gored skirt. It is trimmed with lace of the old lace color. - The mneck Is ‘arranged in quite quaint fashion, with a lace collar dropped over the shoulders so -that it falls on the .upper sleeve, where it is stitched - to make a sieeye cap. The lace ends are tied- in front, thence to fall in stoles to the beit. % There is every indication that the Tu- dor, the Stuart, the Elizabethan and the collars of all thege days will be in. They are really of‘the same period, for all were worn: at very much the same time, and all are revived together. Remalse sance lace is made up in collar fashion and the novelty laces are used to eopy the very old styles, such as the Tudor. The Reception Gown. The Byron collar In lace is pleturesque- ly effective, and we have a resurrection of the lace collars of last winter, with the addition of some lace designs which were not seen then, namely, the lace collars with all the met work cut out, and only the lace flowers or the I figures remaining. Silk or a croeh: net work is set in these open spaces, and the result is a lace nondescript but pretty. They take these handsome black taffets dresses and make them ready to wear to a reception at home. While making such a gown it Is possible also to met it up so that it Is very good for the street. Then over this gown for very nice wear they a lace dress. Mrs. Payne Whitney wore over a black taffeta dress which was extremely snug to the figure a white ‘dress of Renals- sance lace. The waist was of the most simple - shirt waist variety, buttoning down: the front under a flap of lace, so that It was practically an invisible open- ing. There was, of course, a little full- mess at the belt. The skirt was very tight and very flare around the fdot, un- trimmed and entirely of hand-made. Re- naissance. There was a beit of black with postilion back and a black jet ore nament in front. The hand-made Renaissance is easily possible for the woman lace maker, and she who makes. lace collars and lage spreads and lace odds and ends can ge to work and extend her sphere of handl work into the Renalssance lace skirt.